Step 3: Bill of materials

With the foundation subcontracting taken care of, the next step is to get a bill of the materials (BOM) you will need to order and have delivered to do the actual construction of the building. This can be difficult and daunting but I will fill you in on a little secret. Many building supply stores (such as Menards or Home Depot) have a handy kiosk that will let you enter in a rough design and will print out a list of all the materials required to build your building and they will even order and deliver it for you.

A key decision to make prior to embarking on building the BOM is what framing system you want to use. 16" on center or 24" on center studs? For most garage needs 24" is fine and uses less lumber. Check your local codes, as you may not be able to have a 2nd story above the garage with 24" framing. 2x4 or 2x6 framing? If you plan to have a heated garage and live in a cold part of the country, go 2x6 and insulate.

So I took my building sketch to the Menards design center kiosk and answered a series of questions about the building I wanted and viola I had a recommended bill of materials in under 5 minutes. I would recommend going over this print out manually to add, remove, or substitute items. For example, you may want to use a pneumatic nailer (recommended!) for framing/roofing and thus would not need to buy as many regular nails as the print out suggests. Additionally, you may want to add insulation, space your studs to 24", use OSB (oriented strand board) instead of plywood, or specify a different style of window. The key thing that the print out gives you is an idea of the number of pieces needed, and the parts that you might miss such as drip edge, drip cap, shingle starter strip, etc that you will need. It is also a good idea to add a few extra pieces of lumber such as 2x4's and 2x6's in case you measure once and need to cut twice.

You will also need to be aware of building codes when ordering, although often the print out from the kiosk will take many of these issues into account. For example, the bottom plate on your framing is in contact with concrete and thus must be treated to prevent rot. Also, when sheathing your roof, you need to use H-clips between the trusses on the horizontal seams. Snow and ice shield membrane may also be required along the lower portions of the roof. These little details can be anticipated if you spend some time reading the building code and chewing the fat with your experienced construction buddies. The International Residential Code is maintained by the ICC (International Code Council) and serves as the basis for the home building codes in most municipalities. You can buy a copy of the code from the ICC website (click here) and while comprehensive it can be tough to digest.

You don't need to make all the BOM decisions at once and may need to mix and match suppliers to get the right materials. For example, in order to match the shingles on my existing house I had to order from a specialty roofing supply house. The key will be to get all the critical parts on the building site at the same time so that you can effectively use your beer-paid volunteers and get to a stable work point (i.e. the roof shingled) in case you need to take a temporary vacation from your project. Details such as what lights and color siding can wait a bit. Once you have finalized the BOM, place the order and arrange for delivery. Even the largest suburban command vehicle will have trouble hauling a dozen roof trusses and 50 sheets of plywood so shell out the $50 for delivery.

The following is a sample bill of materials for a 20' by 22' garage with 5/12 roof pitch. This is not an exhaustive list (I must have run to the store about a hundred times to get something I forgot), but the major components are there. All dimensional lumber is #2 grade or better.
Qty	Item						Unit Cost	Subtotal
75	2x4x8' Stud					2.18		163.5
20	2x4x12'						2.95		59
10	2x4x16'						4.58		45.8
6	2x6x10'						3.99		23.94
2	2x12x18'					20.49		40.98
12	1x6x12' Quality grade				6.75		81
8	2x4x12' AC2 treated				4.59		36.72
45	1/2" 4'x8' exterior grade OSB			7.49		337.05
14	5/8" 4'x8' exterior grade fire rated drywall	9.44		132.16
12	1/2" 4'x8' BC grade plywood			12		144
10	5/12 20' Residential 60# Truss			30.25		302.5
20	Rafter tie hangers				0.63		12.6
2	5/12 20' Residential end frame truss		38.21		76.42
2	Roll of 15# felt roofing felt			13.25		26.5
2	Roll of 3' wide ice and water seal		25.85		51.7
2	Roll shingle starter strip			10.48		20.96
3	bags 1/2" H-clips				2.24		6.72
18	Bundles 3 tab 30 year shingles			20		360
2	3.5x50' roll sill seal foam			4.18		8.36
1	16' insulated sectional garage door		439		439
1	Garage door opener				179		179
1	Set vinyl garage door stop trim ~32'		23		23
1	Set vinyl garage door jamb ~32'			52		52
1	Set vinyl garage door brick mode ~32'		32		32
1	Set garage track hanging kit			16.98		16.98
11	10' D style roof edge				2.46		27.06
3	R11 3.5x23x70' kraft faced insulation		31.99		95.97
2	30x42 vinyl windows				107		214
1	5lb box of joist hanger nails			6.79		6.79
1	32x80 Prehung exterior door			153		153
1	Deadbolt and doorknob kit			55.92		55.92
4	6"x12' Aluminum fascia				11.79		47.16
2	16"x12' vented aluminum soffit			13.68		27.36
4	12' soffit frieze				6.99		27.96
4	1-1/4"x10' dripcap				2.38		9.52
1	Large box 16D size nails for pneumatic nailer	45		45
1	Large box 8D size nails for pneumatic nailer	40		40
2	5 lb box of galv roofing nails			4.28		8.56
1	Box 40' Ridge-vent				95		95
2	Box roofing staples for hammer-tacker		6.19		12.38
							Total		3537.57
Whew! The above will get your garage framed, sheathed, roofed, and the windows and doors on. It is up to you to make the decisions on finishing touches like siding, accent lights, etc.

If possible try and arrange delivery of your building materials after the foundation has been poured and is cured enough to build on. That way you can get your materials delivered right next to or on the slab for convenience. I had to hand carry each and every piece around to the back, which was a pain. Sometimes an "alley" delivery will cost extra, depending on your job site layout. Talk with the driver and if you can float him a few bucks you may have luck getting your materials dropped wherever you want. Those guys are magicians with those forklifts.
<p>I know that roofing is one of the diy projects most people are capable of doing themselves, but I've never done any of my house's roofing. We are building a shed, though, and I don't want to have to pay for roofers. I figure I can probably handle a job this big, right? <a href="http://alfsroofing.com/ " rel="nofollow">http://alfsroofing.com/ </a></p>
<p>Please stop spamming Instructables.</p>
<p>Seems like you covered most of the important parts of the roofing process in this instructable! Did you happen to check with local building code on the amount of overhang required? It may be not be required in your area, but in some areas, the overhang is around 1-2 inches. We tend to be 1.5-2 inches in our area because of the amount of rain we can get.</p>
I want to build a 24x24 garage but do it in two steps. Is it safe to use a 12 foot 2x4 wall with the ridge pole on top of that and install the rafters to just one half. I plan to build a second 12x24 section next summer. My concern is whether the roof will be strong enough with just one half built. I was planning on a 6-12 pitch. My roof framework is 2x6 roof joists on 24&quot; centers and the walls are 2x4 on 12&quot; centers.
I appreciate you sharing this! I've been trying to find a company that does <a href="http://www.adkissonconstruction.com/" rel="nofollow">commercial roofing in Champaign Urbana</a> but I found somethings I can do my self. Thanks for sharing.
That was very informative and I liked your humor throughout. I have framed a couple small additions to my cabin in the past, using a framing book for guidance. I feel very comfortable building a garage myself now. My only change to your instructions, will be to use PBR, rather then Miller lite. Thanks for your great instructions.
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Can I get any suggestions for someone who does <a href="http://www.chisholmroofing.ca/" rel="nofollow">roofing in Vancouver</a>? I need to get my roof repaired but I don't know who to call.
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Just wondering if you had checked into metal roofing (like I've seen installed on primitive cabins). It seems like it would go on a lot faster, but perhaps I'm wrong.
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This guide has really helped with my <a href="http://www.greatcanadian.ca/services/windows-and-doors" rel="nofollow">window and door installation in Calgary</a>. Even if your Instructable was only meant for showing how to build a garage, it can help with more than just that. Thank you for sharing!
Thanks for the info, this is going to come in handy! I have the outline of my garage up and everything but roofing is another beast unfortunately. I am probably going through a <a href="http://www.chisholmroofing.ca" rel="nofollow">roofing service in Vancouver</a>, just to make sure the job gets done right the first time.
You make roofing look so easy and fun. I haven't done much with it. My husband and I bought a fixer upper. I think it will look wonderful once we are done with it. Do you know anything about <a href="http://www.affiliatedroofers.ca/resources/" rel="nofollow">torch on roofing in the Vancouver</a> area?
This is really incredible. I don't think I could ever roof a house on my own. But since you seem to be quite knowledgeable, would you happen to know a good company for <a href="http://www.chisholmroofing.ca/" rel="nofollow">roofing in Vancouver</a>? Any suggestions or ideas would be much appreciated. Thanks! Great article!
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A good piece of advice for installing your own garage:... it's hard. I would make sure you really think through how big you want it, once you find your final measurements that you want... add three feet to it in every direction. I made a few mistakes on mine and had to hire <a href="http://www.stampededoors.com" rel="nofollow">garage door repair</a> services.
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Great instructable! I was not really looking forward to doing the <a href="http://www.chisholmroofing.ca/" rel="nofollow">roofing on my Vancouver</a> garage, but now I am kind of excited to do it! I think it will help me feel more accomplished than I would if I just hired someone. Thanks so much for sharing this instructable!
Are you sure you don't have to be an experienced <a href="http://www.greatcanadian.ca" rel="nofollow">roofer</a> to do this kind of stuff? It can be pretty cold and slippery when it gets cold up here in Calgary and slipping off my roof would be counterproductive...
I'm creating a garage addition to the side of my house. How long does it usually take to complete this project? I think I might find experts on <a href="http://www.affordablequalityroofingkc.com" rel="nofollow">roofing in Kansas City MO</a> to help me with that part of my project.
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Thanks for these great tips. I am building my own garage. I might hire a <a href="http://www.hometownrestoration.net" rel="nofollow">roofing contractor</a> for that part, but the rest I will do on my own.
Thanks for the article, unfortuently we're having to replace a lot of our <a href="http://www.chisholmroofing.ca/residential.html" rel="nofollow">roofing</a> on our house due to a horrible storm. So thanks for the instructions!
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Thanks for the article. I consider myself a pretty handy, tool-savvy guy, but I thought I'd hire a <a href="http://valentineroof.com" rel="nofollow">roofing contractor in Seattle</a> to roof my three-car garage that I'm working on. Now I'm considering the job myself. After seeing this, its very doable. Thanks.
Thank you so much for posting this information on how to build a roof. My husband and I are working on our home right now. Do you know anyone that does <a href="http://www.srcatl.com/roofinspec.php" rel="nofollow">roofing inspection in atlanta</a>? We would love to have someone make sure we did everything correct. Thank you for your help!
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K. Wow. I love instructables! I love these writers. You guys are awesome. This is very detailed and helpful. I've been super worried about the Oklahoma City men in my family who think that they can go up on the roof and fix just about anything. This information on <a href="http://www.nmtroofing.com" rel="nofollow">roofing</a> helped me understand how they can be safe and that they do know what they are doing.
This was really great help! I had a problem with the corner of my house where the wind always hits and didn't want to pay for a contractor, wanted to do it myself. After reading this I realize how I personally need to get a <a href="http://www.hometownrestoration.net" rel="nofollow">roofing contractor</a> to help me out. Its not as easy as I thought I would be.
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Roofing without a nail gun sounds miserable. I wouldn't suggest starting this task without any of the materials listed. My friend is a <a href="http://www.paramounthomesllc.com" rel="nofollow">roofing contractor</a> and said most roofing mistakes happen when an inexperienced roofers try to complete their roof without completing all of the steps.
I don't know if I believe you when you say that roofing is fun and easy. I just can't picture getting up there in the heat and having to replace hundreds of tiles. Then again I've never done it so I could be completely mistaken. Still I think I would rather find <a href="http://jandbwest.info" rel="nofollow">roofing services in Marshall County</a> to do it for me. What kind of roofing is best in an all-season area?
Thanks to your guide, I have almost all of this project done! The only thing that I really need to finish is the <a href="http://www.nmtroofing.com" rel="nofollow">roofing</a>. I believe that I have all of the supplies that I need, but I am still a little nervous about it. I will totally be consulting you guide as I finish up. Thanks again for your help!
i got to admit this <a href="http://jmsroofingservices.com" rel="nofollow">roof installation</a> process wasn't as hard as i thought it would be, it was actually very bearable and kind of fun.
Does rebar just lie there on the gravel or is it elevated to be surrounded by concrete? If lifted, what with? Does rebar have to be tied?
Hi <br>The rebar must be elevated enough so the gravel that is contained in the wet concrete will fit under it. The minimum is 1&quot; and the maximum, for a 4&quot; thick concrete, should be 1-1/2&quot;. If you've got old concrete blocks, you can break them and use the pieces as supports, but make sure you tie the rebar to these or they'll fall off while pouring concrete! Other items would be used bricks, pieces of concrete. NO organic materials that will decompose should be used! If you want to spend some $ and do it nicely, go to a contractors supply house and ask for 'rebar chairs'. These come individually and in 5' strips, which can be cut to short pieces. <br> <br>Yes, the rebar needs to be tied together. This helps to keep it in place while you're pouring the wet concrete, and it does give strength. <br>The rebar must also overlap where it is tied/spliced together. The rule for how much overlap is: 18 x Diameter (in inches). So if you're using 1/2&quot; diameter rebar, 18 x 1/2&quot; = 9 inch overlap. If using #6 bar (rebar is named in 1/8&quot;, so #6 = 6/8&quot; or 3/4&quot; diameter) the required minimum overlap is 18 x .75, or 12&quot; overlap.
Wow, these are really helpful tips for re <a href="http://www.roofmaster.net" rel="nofollow">roofing</a>. I am planning a big re roofing project for my parents' shed and I know this will help me out. Thanks for the info!
Building your own garage is tough. As soon as we got do the garage doors part of it I just let the pros come install it. <a href="http://www.thedoorworks.ca" rel="nofollow">garage doors</a>
Great article! I've never actually done any of my own roofing, but this fall I've determined to try. I'm a little nervous, so I have a <a href="http://www.torontoroofingindustries.com" rel="nofollow">roofing Toronto</a> company ready to call if I need to. The one thing your post neglected to mention was where I go to find all of this material. Will any home improvement store have them, or should I find a specialty store of some kind? Thank for the awesome advice.
Any home improvement store should carry or be able to order all the materials discussed. Shingles are typically special order, outside of a very limited selection of style and color. The key limitation to my instructions is the lack of discussion of flashing since my garage did not require any. Roof penetrations or intersecting faces are where roofing gets more difficult as you need to ensure water-tightness. Be sure you understand how to flash and waterproof all areas where there are vents, pipes, skylights, joins, etc before you begin.
I have a 50' x 50' steel building divided 2/3 is a shop with a concrete floor, 1/3 is storage room with dirt floor. It was built before I bought the property. I would like to suggest three things :........... <strong>(1).</strong> Put your big air compressor as far as possible from work area to lessen noise when compressor is on ...................... <strong>(2).</strong> Make shop floor 2 inches or so higher than driveway so water will not come into shop. We had a deluge of rain and water came in.........................................<strong> (3)</strong>. If shop is a distance from house, consider installing security alarm system with loud siren on building and hard wired small siren inside house. You will not hear alarm on building if it sounds at 3:00am, but you will hear small alarm inside house. I bought a HoneyWell with 6 zones on eBay for about $150. &nbsp;It adds a lot of peace-of-mind.&nbsp;
I actually paid a guy $500 to shingle my garage when I got to this point. The roof had an 8/12 pitch and it was worth the money to have it done in 5 hrs vs 3 days

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