Step 4: Build a strong foundation

As mentioned, I paid someone else to do the foundation. It cost in the neighborhood of $6k. Worth every penny.

Be sure and talk the plan (pictured below) over with whoever is setting up the site so that the garage gets poured in the right spot. They know their business, so ask for their advice. In my case, there was a utility pole that was interfering with the planned driveway somewhat. My plan originally called for a 2' set back from the property line, but based on the recommendation of the concrete guys, we pushed it out to 3' in order to clear the utility pole with some cushion. They moved their lines and no sweat, but once the forms are in place moving the placement gets more difficult, and once the concrete is in, then forget it.

The key steps to getting the foundation in are to lay out the lines for the foundation relative to the property lines, and to set up the site for the pour. To get the site ready the hole needs to be dug, the soil compacted, backfilled with suitable class-5 gravel, the forms erected in accordance with the lines, and reinforcement placed in the hole. The photo below shows my site just before concrete pour. You can see the grid of reinforcing metal rebar, the class-5 gravel and the forms.

Before you can pour in the concrete, you will need to have the site inspected by the city. They need to check and make sure you aren't doing anything stupid, are following code, and have placed the structure correctly based on the drawings signed off on by the city during the permit process and in agreement with property survey markers. This inspection will be arranged by the concrete subcontractor and everything should go smoothly if you have communicated with them well. If you are on your own, you just need to put in the call to the inspector and arrange a time. When you get your permit with the city they will give you a checklist for the inspector to sign as well as a phone number for your assigned inspector. Inspectors are friendly and helpful in general so don't hesitate to call and ask them questions. If they can answer a question on the phone it saves them a trip out to your job site.

With the forms inspected, the concrete can go in. One key thing to talk with the concrete guys about is the anchor bolts that will go into the foundation. The building code require anchors to be embedded in the concrete so that the bottom sill plate of the framing can be bolted to the foundation. There are specific rules about the placement of these bolts. Every six feet, within 12" of any cut in the sill plate, etc. Your concrete guys should know the rules. Make sure they know and clearly make where you are putting in your access door(s) and overhead door(s) so they can place the anchors correctly. In my case I had to have a single course of block around the foundation so that also required communication so that the openings would fit my doors.

After a day or so the concrete guys will come and take down to forms and clean up any spilled concrete. Be sure to communicate any concerns you have about the job if any at this time because this is the time that they will be expecting to get paid. Sometimes you will pay half up front and half upon completion. Once they get the second half of the money it can be hard to get them to come around and correct any problems so speak up before you write that check.

The next inspection you will need is the framing, so after a few days (~4) to let the concrete cure you can start building. Right about that time, you should expect a bunch of rain. Actually the rain will probably start as soon as the truck driver who delivered your lumber drives away.
<p>I know that roofing is one of the diy projects most people are capable of doing themselves, but I've never done any of my house's roofing. We are building a shed, though, and I don't want to have to pay for roofers. I figure I can probably handle a job this big, right? <a href="http://alfsroofing.com/ " rel="nofollow">http://alfsroofing.com/ </a></p>
<p>Please stop spamming Instructables.</p>
<p>Seems like you covered most of the important parts of the roofing process in this instructable! Did you happen to check with local building code on the amount of overhang required? It may be not be required in your area, but in some areas, the overhang is around 1-2 inches. We tend to be 1.5-2 inches in our area because of the amount of rain we can get.</p>
I want to build a 24x24 garage but do it in two steps. Is it safe to use a 12 foot 2x4 wall with the ridge pole on top of that and install the rafters to just one half. I plan to build a second 12x24 section next summer. My concern is whether the roof will be strong enough with just one half built. I was planning on a 6-12 pitch. My roof framework is 2x6 roof joists on 24&quot; centers and the walls are 2x4 on 12&quot; centers.
I appreciate you sharing this! I've been trying to find a company that does <a href="http://www.adkissonconstruction.com/" rel="nofollow">commercial roofing in Champaign Urbana</a> but I found somethings I can do my self. Thanks for sharing.
That was very informative and I liked your humor throughout. I have framed a couple small additions to my cabin in the past, using a framing book for guidance. I feel very comfortable building a garage myself now. My only change to your instructions, will be to use PBR, rather then Miller lite. Thanks for your great instructions.
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Can I get any suggestions for someone who does <a href="http://www.chisholmroofing.ca/" rel="nofollow">roofing in Vancouver</a>? I need to get my roof repaired but I don't know who to call.
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Just wondering if you had checked into metal roofing (like I've seen installed on primitive cabins). It seems like it would go on a lot faster, but perhaps I'm wrong.
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This guide has really helped with my <a href="http://www.greatcanadian.ca/services/windows-and-doors" rel="nofollow">window and door installation in Calgary</a>. Even if your Instructable was only meant for showing how to build a garage, it can help with more than just that. Thank you for sharing!
Thanks for the info, this is going to come in handy! I have the outline of my garage up and everything but roofing is another beast unfortunately. I am probably going through a <a href="http://www.chisholmroofing.ca" rel="nofollow">roofing service in Vancouver</a>, just to make sure the job gets done right the first time.
You make roofing look so easy and fun. I haven't done much with it. My husband and I bought a fixer upper. I think it will look wonderful once we are done with it. Do you know anything about <a href="http://www.affiliatedroofers.ca/resources/" rel="nofollow">torch on roofing in the Vancouver</a> area?
This is really incredible. I don't think I could ever roof a house on my own. But since you seem to be quite knowledgeable, would you happen to know a good company for <a href="http://www.chisholmroofing.ca/" rel="nofollow">roofing in Vancouver</a>? Any suggestions or ideas would be much appreciated. Thanks! Great article!
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I think I'm gong to get some <a href="http://www.neumayerroofing.com/services.html" rel="nofollow">free roof estimates in Wichita KS</a> and if I don't l like anything I hear, I'll have my husband take a look at this and see what he could do. Thanks for the step by step instructions!
A good piece of advice for installing your own garage:... it's hard. I would make sure you really think through how big you want it, once you find your final measurements that you want... add three feet to it in every direction. I made a few mistakes on mine and had to hire <a href="http://www.stampededoors.com" rel="nofollow">garage door repair</a> services.
I needed to do some <a href="http://kodiakroofing.com/index.php?id=24" rel="nofollow">roofing in Sacramento</a> and your guide helped me do just that, thank you!
Great instructable! I was not really looking forward to doing the <a href="http://www.chisholmroofing.ca/" rel="nofollow">roofing on my Vancouver</a> garage, but now I am kind of excited to do it! I think it will help me feel more accomplished than I would if I just hired someone. Thanks so much for sharing this instructable!
Are you sure you don't have to be an experienced <a href="http://www.greatcanadian.ca" rel="nofollow">roofer</a> to do this kind of stuff? It can be pretty cold and slippery when it gets cold up here in Calgary and slipping off my roof would be counterproductive...
I'm creating a garage addition to the side of my house. How long does it usually take to complete this project? I think I might find experts on <a href="http://www.affordablequalityroofingkc.com" rel="nofollow">roofing in Kansas City MO</a> to help me with that part of my project.
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Thanks for these great tips. I am building my own garage. I might hire a <a href="http://www.hometownrestoration.net" rel="nofollow">roofing contractor</a> for that part, but the rest I will do on my own.
Thanks for the article, unfortuently we're having to replace a lot of our <a href="http://www.chisholmroofing.ca/residential.html" rel="nofollow">roofing</a> on our house due to a horrible storm. So thanks for the instructions!
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Thanks for the article. I consider myself a pretty handy, tool-savvy guy, but I thought I'd hire a <a href="http://valentineroof.com" rel="nofollow">roofing contractor in Seattle</a> to roof my three-car garage that I'm working on. Now I'm considering the job myself. After seeing this, its very doable. Thanks.
Thank you so much for posting this information on how to build a roof. My husband and I are working on our home right now. Do you know anyone that does <a href="http://www.srcatl.com/roofinspec.php" rel="nofollow">roofing inspection in atlanta</a>? We would love to have someone make sure we did everything correct. Thank you for your help!
This is a great article! I've been looking for instructions to <a href="http://www.bungersteel.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=149&Itemid=426" rel="nofollow">build a garage</a>, and this is perfect. This will probably be my next big project next summer.
K. Wow. I love instructables! I love these writers. You guys are awesome. This is very detailed and helpful. I've been super worried about the Oklahoma City men in my family who think that they can go up on the roof and fix just about anything. This information on <a href="http://www.nmtroofing.com" rel="nofollow">roofing</a> helped me understand how they can be safe and that they do know what they are doing.
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Roofing without a nail gun sounds miserable. I wouldn't suggest starting this task without any of the materials listed. My friend is a <a href="http://www.paramounthomesllc.com" rel="nofollow">roofing contractor</a> and said most roofing mistakes happen when an inexperienced roofers try to complete their roof without completing all of the steps.
I don't know if I believe you when you say that roofing is fun and easy. I just can't picture getting up there in the heat and having to replace hundreds of tiles. Then again I've never done it so I could be completely mistaken. Still I think I would rather find <a href="http://jandbwest.info" rel="nofollow">roofing services in Marshall County</a> to do it for me. What kind of roofing is best in an all-season area?
Thanks to your guide, I have almost all of this project done! The only thing that I really need to finish is the <a href="http://www.nmtroofing.com" rel="nofollow">roofing</a>. I believe that I have all of the supplies that I need, but I am still a little nervous about it. I will totally be consulting you guide as I finish up. Thanks again for your help!
i got to admit this <a href="http://jmsroofingservices.com" rel="nofollow">roof installation</a> process wasn't as hard as i thought it would be, it was actually very bearable and kind of fun.
Does rebar just lie there on the gravel or is it elevated to be surrounded by concrete? If lifted, what with? Does rebar have to be tied?
Hi <br>The rebar must be elevated enough so the gravel that is contained in the wet concrete will fit under it. The minimum is 1&quot; and the maximum, for a 4&quot; thick concrete, should be 1-1/2&quot;. If you've got old concrete blocks, you can break them and use the pieces as supports, but make sure you tie the rebar to these or they'll fall off while pouring concrete! Other items would be used bricks, pieces of concrete. NO organic materials that will decompose should be used! If you want to spend some $ and do it nicely, go to a contractors supply house and ask for 'rebar chairs'. These come individually and in 5' strips, which can be cut to short pieces. <br> <br>Yes, the rebar needs to be tied together. This helps to keep it in place while you're pouring the wet concrete, and it does give strength. <br>The rebar must also overlap where it is tied/spliced together. The rule for how much overlap is: 18 x Diameter (in inches). So if you're using 1/2&quot; diameter rebar, 18 x 1/2&quot; = 9 inch overlap. If using #6 bar (rebar is named in 1/8&quot;, so #6 = 6/8&quot; or 3/4&quot; diameter) the required minimum overlap is 18 x .75, or 12&quot; overlap.
Wow, these are really helpful tips for re <a href="http://www.roofmaster.net" rel="nofollow">roofing</a>. I am planning a big re roofing project for my parents' shed and I know this will help me out. Thanks for the info!
Building your own garage is tough. As soon as we got do the garage doors part of it I just let the pros come install it. <a href="http://www.thedoorworks.ca" rel="nofollow">garage doors</a>
Great article! I've never actually done any of my own roofing, but this fall I've determined to try. I'm a little nervous, so I have a <a href="http://www.torontoroofingindustries.com" rel="nofollow">roofing Toronto</a> company ready to call if I need to. The one thing your post neglected to mention was where I go to find all of this material. Will any home improvement store have them, or should I find a specialty store of some kind? Thank for the awesome advice.
Any home improvement store should carry or be able to order all the materials discussed. Shingles are typically special order, outside of a very limited selection of style and color. The key limitation to my instructions is the lack of discussion of flashing since my garage did not require any. Roof penetrations or intersecting faces are where roofing gets more difficult as you need to ensure water-tightness. Be sure you understand how to flash and waterproof all areas where there are vents, pipes, skylights, joins, etc before you begin.
I have a 50' x 50' steel building divided 2/3 is a shop with a concrete floor, 1/3 is storage room with dirt floor. It was built before I bought the property. I would like to suggest three things :........... <strong>(1).</strong> Put your big air compressor as far as possible from work area to lessen noise when compressor is on ...................... <strong>(2).</strong> Make shop floor 2 inches or so higher than driveway so water will not come into shop. We had a deluge of rain and water came in.........................................<strong> (3)</strong>. If shop is a distance from house, consider installing security alarm system with loud siren on building and hard wired small siren inside house. You will not hear alarm on building if it sounds at 3:00am, but you will hear small alarm inside house. I bought a HoneyWell with 6 zones on eBay for about $150. &nbsp;It adds a lot of peace-of-mind.&nbsp;
I actually paid a guy $500 to shingle my garage when I got to this point. The roof had an 8/12 pitch and it was worth the money to have it done in 5 hrs vs 3 days

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