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Step 7Framing and assembling the walls
Now that the basics of framing are understood, take a look at the sample diagrams for my framing. I have labeled all the four walls with their directions which correspond to the north given in my site plan. You should be able to generate a similar plan for framing up your walls. The letters on the sides indicate the wall that meets up at that end (N, E, S, W) and help match the walls with the correct direction
Once your starting wall is assembled on the ground (I started with the East wall below) you will want to move it out of the way and begin assembling one of your walls that is at 90 degrees to the starting wall. I next built the North wall in order to get the window opening out of the way. Build that wall in the same fashion as discussed in the framing basics step. You should save the wall with the large overhead door opening for last so plan accordingly.
Once two walls are built you will need to get a group together and lift the first wall onto the anchor bolts. Before you put the wall on there, get out the rolls of sill seal foam and roll it out on the slab/block and punch the anchor bolts through it. Run this foam around the periphery of your wall and then place the first wall over the anchor bolts. Hold it in place and thread some of the washers and nuts on the bolts. While someone holds the first wall, bring the second wall into place on the slab/block and put it over the corresponding anchor bolts.
With both walls swaying in the wind, nail them together at the corners, being sure to match up the edges as shown in the corner diagram. These nails will not hold up the wall well so you will need to get on a ladder and add a corner brace across the two top plates. See the sketch below, where there is a 2x4 nailed across the two wall top plates and another 2x4 nailed to an upright stud to brace the wall against the slab. Also visible is the course of block running around my slab. With the 8" high block, the three top plates and the 8' studs the "ceiling' in my garage is about 9'. If you do not plan on or require a course of block, then you might want to consider using studs longer than 8' to give you more headroom.
With two walls up, repeat the process on a third wall. You should do the wall with the large overhead door opening last since the header beam will be very heavy and thus more dangerous to install. This wall will be covered in the next step.
One last thing is that you must post your permit at the jobsite. You can put it in the window on your existing house until there is a structure to nail it to on the new building but it needs to be visible.
Once your starting wall is assembled on the ground (I started with the East wall below) you will want to move it out of the way and begin assembling one of your walls that is at 90 degrees to the starting wall. I next built the North wall in order to get the window opening out of the way. Build that wall in the same fashion as discussed in the framing basics step. You should save the wall with the large overhead door opening for last so plan accordingly.
Once two walls are built you will need to get a group together and lift the first wall onto the anchor bolts. Before you put the wall on there, get out the rolls of sill seal foam and roll it out on the slab/block and punch the anchor bolts through it. Run this foam around the periphery of your wall and then place the first wall over the anchor bolts. Hold it in place and thread some of the washers and nuts on the bolts. While someone holds the first wall, bring the second wall into place on the slab/block and put it over the corresponding anchor bolts.
With both walls swaying in the wind, nail them together at the corners, being sure to match up the edges as shown in the corner diagram. These nails will not hold up the wall well so you will need to get on a ladder and add a corner brace across the two top plates. See the sketch below, where there is a 2x4 nailed across the two wall top plates and another 2x4 nailed to an upright stud to brace the wall against the slab. Also visible is the course of block running around my slab. With the 8" high block, the three top plates and the 8' studs the "ceiling' in my garage is about 9'. If you do not plan on or require a course of block, then you might want to consider using studs longer than 8' to give you more headroom.
With two walls up, repeat the process on a third wall. You should do the wall with the large overhead door opening last since the header beam will be very heavy and thus more dangerous to install. This wall will be covered in the next step.
One last thing is that you must post your permit at the jobsite. You can put it in the window on your existing house until there is a structure to nail it to on the new building but it needs to be visible.
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Jun 27, 2010. 7:35 PMtnnv
says:
When setting the walls on the concrete slab (with anchors all in place, etc) does the framed out wall set even with the edge of concrete or overhang slightly, say 1/2 inch? Reason I ask is the company that is building my trusses asked and I had assumed they would be flush/even with my concrete edge. Is one way better than the other or what is the preferred method?
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Jun 28, 2010. 7:44 AM
jmengel (author)
says:
jmengel (author)
says:
I really don't know if there is a reason for one approach over another. I had a course of block around the perimeter on my garage and I set the sill plate (bottom treated 2x4) back from the edge of the block by 1/2" so that the sheathing was flush with the outer edge of the block and concrete. Your mileage may vary.
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