Step 9: Outer Sheathing

With the four walls all framed, it is time to sheath the outside. Since you took so much care in making the studs regularly spaced the sheathing should fly by. You will want to swap out the 16D nails in the nailer for 8D nails at this point. Exterior grade OSB has an inner and outer side. This makes more of a difference when roofing as the outer side is textured to improve traction when walking on it. However, the other feature of the outer side is a painted grid of 16" and 24" spaced lines to allow you to hit the studs underneath when nailing. Make sure this side is out and you will save yourself some headaches.

The easiest way to sheath your walls is to sheathe right over the small door and window openings. Once they are nailed in place someone working from the inside can drill holes at the corners, come around to the outside, and using a jigsaw or reciprocating saw connect these holes to open up the windows and doors. Presto chango!

While sheathing, you will need to put nails in every 6-8" or so on the edges and on the interior studs. Check your local codes. With 24" stud spacing there will only be one interior stud. The hardest part is to hit the studs when your studs are off of the painted grid on the OSB. You can also have a spotter inside to tell you if you are missing the studs. This is no big deal if you are going to insulate and close up the wall cavities, but if you plan on leaving the interior walls open you will want to pound those nails back out so you don't cut yourself later down the road. Your spotter can do that while you nail.

Since my walls are about 8' 5" tall a single sheet of 4'x8' OSB will not cover the whole wall. My approach was to start the panel at the sill plate and to run the panel vertically, leaving the last 5 inches or so open. The goal here is to stiffen up the walls with the sheathing so you can put on the roof. If you are so inclined you can have someone following the nailer with strips of OSB to fill these gaps or wait for later. However, they can only do the "flat" walls since on the gable ends the sheathing will need to extend up to the peak of the roof trusses.

See the pics below to get an idea of what the garage will look like with this lower course of OSB on.

Another thing to note is that the South wall on my garage has no windows. When you build within a certain distance of the property line (3 feet) in Minneapolis and elsewhere you cannot have windows or doors in the wall. Additionally, I had to cover the exterior studs with fire-rated exterior drywall rather than OSB on the wall facing my neighbor's property. The drywall also had to extend all the way to the lower surface of the roof deck. The interior wall on this side also had to be fire-rated drywall in order to prevent a fire in my garage from spreading to the neighbor's. Check your local code, and read this document for more information.

With the lower 8' of the garage sheathed, it is time to put on the roof trusses.
<p>I know that roofing is one of the diy projects most people are capable of doing themselves, but I've never done any of my house's roofing. We are building a shed, though, and I don't want to have to pay for roofers. I figure I can probably handle a job this big, right? <a href="http://alfsroofing.com/ " rel="nofollow">http://alfsroofing.com/ </a></p>
<p>Please stop spamming Instructables.</p>
<p>Seems like you covered most of the important parts of the roofing process in this instructable! Did you happen to check with local building code on the amount of overhang required? It may be not be required in your area, but in some areas, the overhang is around 1-2 inches. We tend to be 1.5-2 inches in our area because of the amount of rain we can get.</p>
I want to build a 24x24 garage but do it in two steps. Is it safe to use a 12 foot 2x4 wall with the ridge pole on top of that and install the rafters to just one half. I plan to build a second 12x24 section next summer. My concern is whether the roof will be strong enough with just one half built. I was planning on a 6-12 pitch. My roof framework is 2x6 roof joists on 24&quot; centers and the walls are 2x4 on 12&quot; centers.
I appreciate you sharing this! I've been trying to find a company that does <a href="http://www.adkissonconstruction.com/" rel="nofollow">commercial roofing in Champaign Urbana</a> but I found somethings I can do my self. Thanks for sharing.
That was very informative and I liked your humor throughout. I have framed a couple small additions to my cabin in the past, using a framing book for guidance. I feel very comfortable building a garage myself now. My only change to your instructions, will be to use PBR, rather then Miller lite. Thanks for your great instructions.
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Can I get any suggestions for someone who does <a href="http://www.chisholmroofing.ca/" rel="nofollow">roofing in Vancouver</a>? I need to get my roof repaired but I don't know who to call.
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Just wondering if you had checked into metal roofing (like I've seen installed on primitive cabins). It seems like it would go on a lot faster, but perhaps I'm wrong.
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This guide has really helped with my <a href="http://www.greatcanadian.ca/services/windows-and-doors" rel="nofollow">window and door installation in Calgary</a>. Even if your Instructable was only meant for showing how to build a garage, it can help with more than just that. Thank you for sharing!
Thanks for the info, this is going to come in handy! I have the outline of my garage up and everything but roofing is another beast unfortunately. I am probably going through a <a href="http://www.chisholmroofing.ca" rel="nofollow">roofing service in Vancouver</a>, just to make sure the job gets done right the first time.
You make roofing look so easy and fun. I haven't done much with it. My husband and I bought a fixer upper. I think it will look wonderful once we are done with it. Do you know anything about <a href="http://www.affiliatedroofers.ca/resources/" rel="nofollow">torch on roofing in the Vancouver</a> area?
This is really incredible. I don't think I could ever roof a house on my own. But since you seem to be quite knowledgeable, would you happen to know a good company for <a href="http://www.chisholmroofing.ca/" rel="nofollow">roofing in Vancouver</a>? Any suggestions or ideas would be much appreciated. Thanks! Great article!
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I think I'm gong to get some <a href="http://www.neumayerroofing.com/services.html" rel="nofollow">free roof estimates in Wichita KS</a> and if I don't l like anything I hear, I'll have my husband take a look at this and see what he could do. Thanks for the step by step instructions!
A good piece of advice for installing your own garage:... it's hard. I would make sure you really think through how big you want it, once you find your final measurements that you want... add three feet to it in every direction. I made a few mistakes on mine and had to hire <a href="http://www.stampededoors.com" rel="nofollow">garage door repair</a> services.
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Great instructable! I was not really looking forward to doing the <a href="http://www.chisholmroofing.ca/" rel="nofollow">roofing on my Vancouver</a> garage, but now I am kind of excited to do it! I think it will help me feel more accomplished than I would if I just hired someone. Thanks so much for sharing this instructable!
Are you sure you don't have to be an experienced <a href="http://www.greatcanadian.ca" rel="nofollow">roofer</a> to do this kind of stuff? It can be pretty cold and slippery when it gets cold up here in Calgary and slipping off my roof would be counterproductive...
I'm creating a garage addition to the side of my house. How long does it usually take to complete this project? I think I might find experts on <a href="http://www.affordablequalityroofingkc.com" rel="nofollow">roofing in Kansas City MO</a> to help me with that part of my project.
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Thanks for these great tips. I am building my own garage. I might hire a <a href="http://www.hometownrestoration.net" rel="nofollow">roofing contractor</a> for that part, but the rest I will do on my own.
Thanks for the article, unfortuently we're having to replace a lot of our <a href="http://www.chisholmroofing.ca/residential.html" rel="nofollow">roofing</a> on our house due to a horrible storm. So thanks for the instructions!
You did a great job with this, thanks for sharing! I have a friend who does <a href="http://roofingcontractorhuntsville.com" rel="nofollow">roof inspection in Cross Roads, al</a> and ever since I've been wanting to know how to do it so that I can fix my roof if it needs it. I've always wanted to be more of a handy man. I'll definitely give this a shot.
Thanks for the article. I consider myself a pretty handy, tool-savvy guy, but I thought I'd hire a <a href="http://valentineroof.com" rel="nofollow">roofing contractor in Seattle</a> to roof my three-car garage that I'm working on. Now I'm considering the job myself. After seeing this, its very doable. Thanks.
Thank you so much for posting this information on how to build a roof. My husband and I are working on our home right now. Do you know anyone that does <a href="http://www.srcatl.com/roofinspec.php" rel="nofollow">roofing inspection in atlanta</a>? We would love to have someone make sure we did everything correct. Thank you for your help!
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K. Wow. I love instructables! I love these writers. You guys are awesome. This is very detailed and helpful. I've been super worried about the Oklahoma City men in my family who think that they can go up on the roof and fix just about anything. This information on <a href="http://www.nmtroofing.com" rel="nofollow">roofing</a> helped me understand how they can be safe and that they do know what they are doing.
This was really great help! I had a problem with the corner of my house where the wind always hits and didn't want to pay for a contractor, wanted to do it myself. After reading this I realize how I personally need to get a <a href="http://www.hometownrestoration.net" rel="nofollow">roofing contractor</a> to help me out. Its not as easy as I thought I would be.
Thanks for making roofing a little easier. Do you need any additional <a href="http://www.roofmaster.net" rel="nofollow">help</a>? if you do, check out this website. <br> <br>http://www.roofmaster.net <br>
Roofing without a nail gun sounds miserable. I wouldn't suggest starting this task without any of the materials listed. My friend is a <a href="http://www.paramounthomesllc.com" rel="nofollow">roofing contractor</a> and said most roofing mistakes happen when an inexperienced roofers try to complete their roof without completing all of the steps.
I don't know if I believe you when you say that roofing is fun and easy. I just can't picture getting up there in the heat and having to replace hundreds of tiles. Then again I've never done it so I could be completely mistaken. Still I think I would rather find <a href="http://jandbwest.info" rel="nofollow">roofing services in Marshall County</a> to do it for me. What kind of roofing is best in an all-season area?
Thanks to your guide, I have almost all of this project done! The only thing that I really need to finish is the <a href="http://www.nmtroofing.com" rel="nofollow">roofing</a>. I believe that I have all of the supplies that I need, but I am still a little nervous about it. I will totally be consulting you guide as I finish up. Thanks again for your help!
i got to admit this <a href="http://jmsroofingservices.com" rel="nofollow">roof installation</a> process wasn't as hard as i thought it would be, it was actually very bearable and kind of fun.
Does rebar just lie there on the gravel or is it elevated to be surrounded by concrete? If lifted, what with? Does rebar have to be tied?
Hi <br>The rebar must be elevated enough so the gravel that is contained in the wet concrete will fit under it. The minimum is 1&quot; and the maximum, for a 4&quot; thick concrete, should be 1-1/2&quot;. If you've got old concrete blocks, you can break them and use the pieces as supports, but make sure you tie the rebar to these or they'll fall off while pouring concrete! Other items would be used bricks, pieces of concrete. NO organic materials that will decompose should be used! If you want to spend some $ and do it nicely, go to a contractors supply house and ask for 'rebar chairs'. These come individually and in 5' strips, which can be cut to short pieces. <br> <br>Yes, the rebar needs to be tied together. This helps to keep it in place while you're pouring the wet concrete, and it does give strength. <br>The rebar must also overlap where it is tied/spliced together. The rule for how much overlap is: 18 x Diameter (in inches). So if you're using 1/2&quot; diameter rebar, 18 x 1/2&quot; = 9 inch overlap. If using #6 bar (rebar is named in 1/8&quot;, so #6 = 6/8&quot; or 3/4&quot; diameter) the required minimum overlap is 18 x .75, or 12&quot; overlap.
Wow, these are really helpful tips for re <a href="http://www.roofmaster.net" rel="nofollow">roofing</a>. I am planning a big re roofing project for my parents' shed and I know this will help me out. Thanks for the info!
Building your own garage is tough. As soon as we got do the garage doors part of it I just let the pros come install it. <a href="http://www.thedoorworks.ca" rel="nofollow">garage doors</a>
Great article! I've never actually done any of my own roofing, but this fall I've determined to try. I'm a little nervous, so I have a <a href="http://www.torontoroofingindustries.com" rel="nofollow">roofing Toronto</a> company ready to call if I need to. The one thing your post neglected to mention was where I go to find all of this material. Will any home improvement store have them, or should I find a specialty store of some kind? Thank for the awesome advice.
Any home improvement store should carry or be able to order all the materials discussed. Shingles are typically special order, outside of a very limited selection of style and color. The key limitation to my instructions is the lack of discussion of flashing since my garage did not require any. Roof penetrations or intersecting faces are where roofing gets more difficult as you need to ensure water-tightness. Be sure you understand how to flash and waterproof all areas where there are vents, pipes, skylights, joins, etc before you begin.
I have a 50' x 50' steel building divided 2/3 is a shop with a concrete floor, 1/3 is storage room with dirt floor. It was built before I bought the property. I would like to suggest three things :........... <strong>(1).</strong> Put your big air compressor as far as possible from work area to lessen noise when compressor is on ...................... <strong>(2).</strong> Make shop floor 2 inches or so higher than driveway so water will not come into shop. We had a deluge of rain and water came in.........................................<strong> (3)</strong>. If shop is a distance from house, consider installing security alarm system with loud siren on building and hard wired small siren inside house. You will not hear alarm on building if it sounds at 3:00am, but you will hear small alarm inside house. I bought a HoneyWell with 6 zones on eBay for about $150. &nbsp;It adds a lot of peace-of-mind.&nbsp;
I actually paid a guy $500 to shingle my garage when I got to this point. The roof had an 8/12 pitch and it was worth the money to have it done in 5 hrs vs 3 days

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