How to build a painting Hero Steam Engine

This is a kinetic motor that when filled with water and a color added, the machine spins quite quickly and violently spitting out its contents onto the canvas, wall, floor, vehicle parked next to it, myself, camera, and everything else in about a 12’ radius.

As a warning this contraption functions with the use of steam and fire. It can and will hurt you and anyone nearby if not respected and handled with safety in mind. Steam engines can produce enormous amounts of pressure and this one can spin to dangerous velocities. Build and operate at your own risk.

The tools used are not the only equipment that can be used in its construction.

I recommend the following tools;

1. Oxygen-acetylene torch for any of the steel cutting
2. Oxy-acetylene welding tip or TIG welder (this allows a very slow and controlled welding environment), MIG and Arc welding are a little too aggressive and these welds must have good penetration.
3. Rose Bud or forge for bending steel
4. Drill Press
5. Grinder with grinding and cutting disc
6. Assortment of drill bits
7. Tap set

Supplies list                                                    {Key;    (") =inches   (') =feet}
(I live in the United States so my supplies are not in metric)

• 4"D pipe at least 3" long
• 2"D pipe at least 1" long
• 3/4" square end end threads x2
• Steel plate (enough area to cut out two 3" D circles)
• Steel rod 1/2" D 3' in length
• Bearing with 1/2" internal Diameter
• Carriage bolt 1/4" 20 thread
• 1/4" 20 thread hex head bolts x 4
• washer x 1
• lock ring x 1
• board to mount kinetic piece to
• 3-in-one Oil (tapping purposes)

Step 1 Lets get cutting

This design is one of the oldest engine designs. It is referred to as a hero engine and was originally supposed to run much smoother without all of the spitting. My contraption came to be when I turned it on after about a week of setting with water still in it. Apparently, it had begun to rust and when fired-up, spewed rusty water all over everything. Being an artist I looked at the pattern and thought it was interesting. Since then it has been my little steam punk painter. I am saying this because as an artist's creations do not always turn out as planned; just go with it-you never know what you might have made instead. A master is just someone who takes a mistake and makes it look intentional.

1. Find your 3" steel pipe and mark out a 3" length. This allows the water level to reach the vents and spray out. Too much length and it just spins.
2. Cut this section of pipe as evenly and level as you can using the cutting wheel on the grinder. If you are unsure of yourself, give 1/8" extra room from the line and grind it down with the grinding disk.
3. Now that you have had a little practice  you need to cut the neck housing (collar) that will hold the bearing. It is vital that this section is cut flush. The motor will have a very dangerous wobble if not done correctly. (TIP: Try laying the collar on a sheet of glass {picture frame} and see if you can slide a playing card under it. If the card will fit between the glass and the collar at any one section, keep on grinding. These surfaces are usually very true.)
4. With the scrap steel you will need to cut out two 3" discs. This is a little tricky and the grinder is your friend in cleaning up the cuts. Also a little extra lip is okay because you can grind it off after it has been welded to the pipe. You can always take a little off, but not put a little back on.  (TIP: use the left over pipe as a cutting template on the steel, or make a compass attachment that fits onto the torch. If interested on making a cutting torch compass ask me and I'll make an instructable.)
5. The length of the 1/2" rod should be cut to 3'  to compensate for a 6" bend (which will be applied to the rod in a later step) to allow the engine to be parallel to the ground and able to spin freely above the mounting surface.

Comments

[Clayton H.]

You should add a hopper to it so that once it starts spinning, then you can ad the dye/ colored stuff. Because it seams that most of it comes out at the start in the pre-spin phase.

[Lignumvital]

I thought about doing that, but could not figure out a way to add a hopper without adding a balance issue. The peice still spits though, in the video when it looked like it had stopped it was actually painting my truck and the rest of the shop. It sprays in a good size radius. If you have an ideas on how to add a hopper please feel to try it out, or talk with me about it.

[Culturespy]

This would be great with a video and a few more photos!

[Lignumvital]

Thank you for showing interest in my work and providing positive and useful critique.

[Tool Using Animal]

I was thinking the same thing.