Step 2: Drill

In this step we will be drilling all of the holes that will be needed. IMPORTANT: Do not tap any threads as of yet because the heat from welding will warp the threads.

NOTE: Images are provided to guide you through each of the steps in this section.

Safety First! Never drill any holes without clamping the object down!

  1. The first three holes will be drilled into the collar. I recommend using a compass set to divide the sections evenly using the same radius as the collar perimeter. Draw the circle on a piece of paper and then "walk" the compass around the perimeter, making a mark at each stop. This will divide the circle evenly and all you have to do is transfer the marks using a square.
  2. These holes must be drilled (size to allow 1/4" tapping) perpendicular to the steel cylinder. Balance a steel ruler on the cylinder at the drill point and bring down the Drill Press (Turned Off). If the drill is in the right alignment the steel ruler will be parallel to the drill table. If not, the ruler will be forced left or right. If it goes right, move it right. If it goes left, move it left. Once aligned and adjusted, remove the ruler and drill the holes.
  3. Two 1/4" holes now need to be drilled into the side of the 3"D pipe (body) so the steam has a directed route of escape. Alternative option:  Drill two holes large enough to allow the square end nuts to be screwed into place rather than welded.
  4. Drill an offset hole into the lid to allow water and dye to be poured in.
  5. The two square end caps will now be drilled to allow the escape of steam. I used a 1/4" bit on the parallel followed by the third smallest bit in a Dremel Drill pack (1/16") for the perpendicular (see image 5).
  6. The steel pipe must also have a hole drilled into one of the ends to allow threading  so that the bearing may be attached later. I used a lathe on this section but it can be done on a drill press or with a hand drill in combination with a jig to act as a guide.
Hmmm Great Ible <br> <br>Just a thought make the jets adjustable to at least 45*for more paint diverse coverage and you can make one or all adjusted at the same angle or mix them up if you add a 4th jet balance problems diminish somewhat . <br> <br>Some floats in certain car carburaters are made of hollow brass by adding one to the top with a slow release into the tank centrifical force would force the paints down into the jet stream creating a more diverse pattern as well <br> <br>Just sharing some ideas this is quite a neat gadget i love it
where did you get your torch?!?!?!?!
You should add a hopper to it so that once it starts spinning, then you can ad the dye/ colored stuff. Because it seams that most of it comes out at the start in the pre-spin phase.
I thought about doing that, but could not figure out a way to add a hopper without adding a balance issue. The peice still spits though, in the video when it looked like it had stopped it was actually painting my truck and the rest of the shop. It sprays in a good size radius. If you have an ideas on how to add a hopper please feel to try it out, or talk with me about it.
This would be great with a video and a few more photos!
Thank you for showing interest in my work and providing positive and useful critique.
I was thinking the same thing.

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Bio: Graduated from college in 2010 with a Bachelors in Fine Art with a focused study in furniture design. I am also a mad scientist at ... More »
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