Step 2: Drill
NOTE: Images are provided to guide you through each of the steps in this section.
Safety First! Never drill any holes without clamping the object down!
- The first three holes will be drilled into the collar. I recommend using a compass set to divide the sections evenly using the same radius as the collar perimeter. Draw the circle on a piece of paper and then "walk" the compass around the perimeter, making a mark at each stop. This will divide the circle evenly and all you have to do is transfer the marks using a square.
- These holes must be drilled (size to allow 1/4" tapping) perpendicular to the steel cylinder. Balance a steel ruler on the cylinder at the drill point and bring down the Drill Press (Turned Off). If the drill is in the right alignment the steel ruler will be parallel to the drill table. If not, the ruler will be forced left or right. If it goes right, move it right. If it goes left, move it left. Once aligned and adjusted, remove the ruler and drill the holes.
- Two 1/4" holes now need to be drilled into the side of the 3"D pipe (body) so the steam has a directed route of escape. Alternative option: Drill two holes large enough to allow the square end nuts to be screwed into place rather than welded.
- Drill an offset hole into the lid to allow water and dye to be poured in.
- The two square end caps will now be drilled to allow the escape of steam. I used a 1/4" bit on the parallel followed by the third smallest bit in a Dremel Drill pack (1/16") for the perpendicular (see image 5).
- The steel pipe must also have a hole drilled into one of the ends to allow threading so that the bearing may be attached later. I used a lathe on this section but it can be done on a drill press or with a hand drill in combination with a jig to act as a guide.