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How to build a rain water collector

Step 2Installing the posts continued

Installing the posts continued
With the first post in the ground, I leveled it off with a level and propped it into place with scrap wood. Then, I began to mix the concrete. This entire project took three 50lb. bags of fast-drying concrete. With the concrete mixed to the right consistency, I poured it around the base of the post.
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3 comments
Sep 11, 2009. 5:08 PMplumber4 says:
Here is a tip that was suggested to me years ago while installing a wood fence around our garden. I found it very useful. Try digging smaller diameter holes and using pea gravel instead of cement. The pea gravel is a bit more expensive (which is why i suggest using smaller holes, you use less gravel). but has a few advantages over cement. 1. Better drainage - this also means longer life of the wood posts. Place a few inches of gravel in the bottom of the post hole. This allows for better water drainage. Your posts will take much longer to rot and will likely outlast the structure above ground. 2. Strong yet easily removed - Posts that are set in pea gravel can be removed without digging and with little effort. Posts that are cemented in are pretty much permanent or at least very difficult to remove. If you decide to move, you can easily take your water harvesting system with you. 3. Less work - mixing cement can be a lot of effort. If you are not not familiar with mixing, it can be very difficult to get the desired mix. 4. Time saving - The time saved by using gravel is well worth the few extra bucks that you may spend on gravel. Also, you do not spend any time cleaning up the cement mess. After getting your post true, fill the hole around it with a few inches of pea gravel at a time. Pack the gravel down with whatever you have (i use a small section of thin lumber or a 2x4. Keep doing this until you are a few inches from the top of the hole. Then use earth to fill in the rest. Tamp the earth down and its set. This ends up looking better than cement as well. Of course always be sure to dig your post holes far enough past the frost line. In Lower Michigan, 42" is the depth to dig to.
Jan 7, 2011. 12:28 AMmikesnyd says:
I never thought of using pea gravel as the base before. I like it. I would do one thing a little different. I do some fiberglassing and usually have a bit of polyester resin laying around so its nothing to me to soak the ends of my posts with a quick coat of resin. No fiberglass needed. Once soaked they don't absorb moisture. And man does your wood last.
I have never in my life dug a hole more then 36" and never had a problem... but thats for decking and such. I usually only have done 24" and use concrete. For a fence being more linear (unlike the box we are making here) and having to deal with mother natures winds 42" would be cool for the pea gravel method.
Apr 23, 2010. 12:29 AMLobosSolos says:
You can also put the concrete in dry.  As it rains it sets up and you don't have the issue of the concrete pulling away from the post as it cures.

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Just your average handyman.