loading

Step 11: Congratulations!

Wow, you built your own frame and it's really easy to add or adjust as you wish.

Now get out of town and away from work and enjoy your new frame on your favorite river.

Have fun and enjoy!
<p>[NOT MAD CAPS] LIKE THE WHOLE IDEA. IVE ALWYS BEEN A CANOE MAN. DON'T LIKE THE IDEA OF ROWING WITH MY NECK &amp; HEAD CRANED BEHIND ME , TO SEE WHERE IM GOING. I HAVE ALREADY ASKED THE QUESTION MANY TIMES BEFORE. &quot; CAN YOU REVERSE ROW &amp; SEE YOUR COURSE LOOKING FOWARD ALL THE TIME LIKE YOU DO WITH PADDLES?? THANK'S [VLAD]</p>
<p>pushing is pretty but it ain't rowing. :) I use both a canoe and a raft, depending on the river. Canoes let you go places a raft won't go and vice versa.</p>
<p>That's called forward rowing, or pushing... of course you can, but once you try pulling the oars you will see a huge difference in the amount of power you can apply. </p>
what size oar mounts did you use?
One of these days I'm gonna put together that Dual Outrigger Indonesian Fishing Canoe with the inboard gasoline motor and triangle sail and post it here.
*random*
Has anyone besides me had difficulty in contacting FrontierPlay? I ordered parts from them four days ago and have had no confirmation on my order. They have not returned my multiple calls or answered any e-mail. I don't know if my order went through or not. I can't even cancell the order (if they received it) to replace it with NRS fittings. I believe I'll stick with NRS after this.
Hey this is an awesome guide for building a frame for a raft. My wife and I are looking into making something similar for our little sevylor fishing raft. I was thinking PVC since it will be mostly calm water with our little boat. I would be grateful for any input some people might have. Thanks!
Why not go to www.aaainflatables.com and order a a 3 bay basic fitting frame for $410.. Aluminum pipe, 6063 1-1/4", mag-alum fittings, anodized pipe, light-weight, and professional service. Whats your time worth.
I made mine in an hour once I had my materials. For me it was a no brainer, Under $200 in materials, thanks to the OP for this idea.
and I forgot to add I used 6061 aluminum pipe and fittings from ebay 6 bucks a pop.
you can get the pipe couplings at fastenal, and the offset for you foot bracket can be bent by an electrician on a chicago style or greenlee 555, simple 4 bend saddle. I added extra hypolon under the pipe fittings to prevent wear. Also when using the steel fittings with the stainless set screw I recommend a light coat of grease to keep the gulding down from the dissimilar types of metals
first off nice job! I'm am going to replicate this project but I have a question. In your opinion do you all think that 6061-t6 pipe in 1-1/4" will be strong enough. I have a local shop that I can get it from although its more expensive I would like to save weight. is there a big difference in strength between the two? I will be using the same fittings. what would you guys use, aluminum or steel? same diameter tube. (without cost as a deciding factor) thanks
I just made myself a frame. Awesome! I wanted my side rails to be longer than the 8 feet max pipe length available in Home Depot. Maybe you can get 1 5/8 pipe in longer lengths at a specialty store, but I found another solution: In the fencing aisle, they sell a sleeve that is meant to join two smaller top rails for fences. With a little hammering, these will fit flush <strong>inside</strong> the 1 5/8 pipe that you're using for frames, making a smooth join. Don't center the sleeve evenly between the two pipes; this would put the crimp right under the join. This should be stronger than the rest of the pipe, but use it at your own risk.<br/>
Looks pro. Great job documenting, too. I'd love to see some action shots when you get a chance to try it out!
few ideas....to tighten the fit between t-fitting and pipe, slip raft (repair) fabric in and under the T fitting, it snugs it up. NRS sells end plugs for female opening at side tubes....or run them long and add crutch style end caps. Consider putting (approx) 18" x 18" corner flat pieces on all corners--use diamond plate or plywood, to make step location or place to strape your ammo can, or first aid kits, etc.
Very helpful topic. Made a row farme very successfully. F.Y.I -- Bought SLIP ON FITTINGS and Aluminum pipe(which is much better than steel pipe) on ebay.com It is cheap and best. ebay store name is EZsMART
This is an awesome project! Pro frames for rafts have welded connections and can cost well into the thousands of dollars range. You have designed and built a comparable frame for way less and you're not sacrificing much quality at all. <br/><br/>Have you given any thought to how the quick connect will wear on the top of the raft over time? I doubt this will be an issue on your NRS raft - but on the older canvas/rubber rafts long term abrasion between the frame and the raft tends to wear the tube down.<br/><br/>I think that the cost of rafting gear is a huge obstacle that keeps people off rivers. Have any good ideas on how to build your own white water raft without too much trouble? The rafting company I worked for used Avon rafts - and I know they can get pretty expensive. <br/><br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.instructables.com/member/timanderson">Tim Anderson</a> is building some wooden paddles around the tower in the next few weeks - so maybe if we combine forces we can have a DIY rafting trip!<br/><br/>Excellent work!<br/>

About This Instructable

116,324views

42favorites

License:

More by dlskayak:How to build a river raft frame 
Add instructable to: