Here's what we'll need:
A thermoelectric peltier chip, the bigger the better. I used a 100W version.
A large heat sink, I used a dell one with heat pipes. The success depends on this heatsink, get the best you can!
An emergency phone charger (we are going to steal the joule thief out of it)
A Small amount of Rock wool insulation, small amounts available from garden centers.
A small tin can with a lip around the top. (Heinz beans will do)
A coke can.
Thermal heat compound
Some heavy duty foil, about 30x30cm
A foot of thick copper or steel wire, for the handle.
2 25mm long M6 Bolts
4 40mm long M5 Bolts
1 50mm long M5 Bolt.
The bolts don't need to be any exact size, just use whatever is available, almost any will work.
Tools you'll need:
Tin snips
Soldering iron
Pliers (with cutters)
Drill bits
Sandpaper
M6 Tap for cutting the threads. The not essential as you could just use an ordinary nut, but it's neater.
Drill (Drill press makes life easier...)
Glue or Glue gun
You can see more photos of the TEG2 here
Take a look at Anthony Goh's website, who made an awesome looking version of this device :
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The video below shows the thermoelectric generator powering some LED's off a cup of how water.
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Signing UpStep 1Drill the holes in the can and fit the feet and central adjustment
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Back in the 50's, there was a magazine my brother subscribed to that had the plans to build a power generator used by the Russian populace during WWII for their radios using a kerosene or oil lamp (think wicks and glass chimneys), certain wires combined /\/\/\/\/\/\/ end to end. To insulate the coil of wires going around the outside of the glass chimney, they used potters clay. Once dried or low-fired, the clay and wire contraption could be taken off of the lamp and hidden, so that the authorities wouldn't know you were listening to the radio (also hidden). AND you still had a pretty good light source.
Still trying to find the plans for the Russian powerplant, but I do really like the candlepowered simpleness of this.
if yes can u explane y ,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310173260016&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT
Thanks,
Could you measure the power output for us? You said you could charge a small Mp3 player, would you say it's around a 1W?
Thanks
I thnk Dell has a patent for this.
large TEMperature Differences. DT is critical Hot side less cold side. The more DT you have the more power is produced. Thermoelectric-generator.com
has allot of info for this technology. If you have specific questions you can ask me . email at info@espressomilkcooler.com we have been in the Thermoelectric field for 20 years.
Also, wouldn't aerogel be the ideal material for pretty much everything on the hot side? Unfortunately, it's still a bit tricky to make, I believe (especially the supercritical drying part sounds complicated). Maybe some ready-made aerogel could be shaped to the right dimensions, but it is awfully brittle.
Aerogel granulate is quite affordable, but I wouldn't know how to harnass its isolatory properties. United Nuclear sells it.
The spring-loaded push-up candle holder still seems like a really good solution to the distance regulating problem, if I may say so myself.
cgi.ebay.com/1x-TEC1-12706-91-2W-TEC-Thermoelectric-Cooler-Peltier_W0QQitemZ150401778203QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0
I've viewed these modules off of ebay. If you ARE just playing and don't care
about reliability then these are cheap peltier modules. They are rated as TEC1-12706 cooling modules . If you expose them to anything higher than 250 to 300F they will probably fry. The solder will melt. these are low amp modules rated 6 amp, 15 2 V , and Qmax of between 68 and 91.2 watts which is confusing as they are stated as the same module part number but different
Qmax which is cooling ability. What this all means is that these are input values not output. A 6 amp at 15.2 Volts is typically run at 12 V and consumes about 4.8 amps of energy to cool. You always run peltier modules at 80% of their Vmax value as not to
turn them into heaters. Most people do not understand that these are very inefficient coolers. About 15% efficiency. So, if you run then at the Max rating they heat not cool. As well a TEC1-127606 should be rated at 51.4 watts Qmax which is the true value of this size of module. I think the seller has no idea what he is selling !!!!!
Now since you want to run these as power generator they will produce power but very little. When you are looking at power generation you want a high amp
module around 12 amps for a 127 couple module or 20 to 25 amp for a 70 or 71 couple. That is what the 127 Designation is in the Model number. It signifies
the number of couples or P and N junctions. Relate it to a Photo Voltaic cell
PV they are made up of wafers that create a panel so that panels voltage
can be used to charge batteries typically 12Volts . The panel is rated at 13 to 14 volts the extra 1 to 2 Volts over 12 Volts is called the nominal voltage and allow forward flow of electricity to charge batteries. Peltier modules are similiar. The have junctions made up of Pand N elements Positive and Negative elements
which creates a electron flow.
Sorry I ramble allot. anyway because a module produces so little energy you want its ratings to be as high as possible for power generation that way you get as much energy as possible out of a 40 x 40 mm size module. The thinner the module id the higher the amperage. Heat flows faster thru thinner semi-conductor material. I could go on and on but if you have any specific questions I would be happy to explain them. You can reach me at
info@espressomilkcooler.com OR tecteg@bellnet.ca
though i think it's very important that the other side is much cooler and the cpu for the sake of causing a temperature difference enough, though.. sure it wouldn't be that nice putting the power back in the computer... it would probably be not that constant.