loading
This amazing little shocker is very tiny and can be hidden almost anywhere and give someone a surprise shock! It can operated by almost any 1.5v batteries!

So, on this instructable, I will show you how to make shockers that is smaller than a penny!

However, the biggest disadvantage of this shocker is, it is very hard to build, but it may be easy for experienced soldering iron user (like me) to build the shocker...

Please note that I am only 15 years old and I am not very good at grammar so if you find some parts of the instructable confusing, please let me know and I will try fix it.
And excuse me for some of those blurry and hazy picture. I cannot make them better...


New and improved version!

Build a World's Smallest Electronic Shocker! version 2.5



Disclaimer: This shocker can be dangerous, it gives out 450 shocking volts, so I am NOT responsible if you or anybody are injured or killed by the shocker, the responsibility is yours...

Step 1: Get the Things!!

Hardly anything is needed for this project but the tools...
  • "Boots" or "Polaroid" type disposable flash camera (You can use a Kodak camera, but they are harder to work with).
  • Some wires (I got mine from broken electronic devices).
  • Solder.

And the tools...
  • Soldering iron with a micro-tip.
  • Desolder pump (it makes everything so much easier, but you could probably get away with out one).
  • Flat-head screwdriver.
  • Wire strippers.
  • Wire cutters.
  • Pliers.
  • Tweezers or micro pliers (or your hand, but you are more than likely to get a solder burn).

Also, if you don't know how to solder, read this great instructable!

Step 2: Slaughter the Camera!

Now this is going to be a fairly dangerous part, open up the camera and get the circuit out safely without getting shocked by the capacitor...

First, pry open the camera's case apart with a flat-head screwdriver or just use your hands if you like, but you are more likely to get shocked by the capacitor.
After you taken the camera's case off, discharge the capacitor with a insulated screw driver, and you may get a big loud spark, and after that, the capacitor is discharged... (Use a screwdriver you hate so much, because a fully charged capacitor will leave a scar on the metal part of the screwdriver!)

Also, if you don't want to risk getting a shock from the capacitor, Gjdj3 recommends you to wear gloves, even the thin one will help he said.

Great! You had done the dangerous step on this instructable!

Step 3: Continue Slaughtering the Camera...

Okay, after you had took apart the camera and discharge the capacitor...
Desolder all of the wanted components off the camera's circuit (I desolder all of mine off).

The components we will need from this camera are...
  • Transformer with five pins.
  • 22nF film capacitor.
  • 220 ohm resistor.
  • Transistor.
  • Diode.

The rest of the components, you can keep them or throw them away, but the 80uF capacitor and the xenon tube is worth keeping...

The 80uF capacitor can come in great use if you build a coilgun project shown on this instructable.

And you can do some really interesting light effects with a xenon tube if you read this instructable.

If you fail to get the 220 ohm resistor, you can try buy one from radioshack or other electronic suppliers.
Color code of the 220 ohm resistor is:
Red - Red - Brown

Also, be very careful when desoldering (and soldering) the transistor, they are very heat sensitive, so desolder it quickly otherwise the transistor will burn out without showing any signs of being dead. Using the dead transistor on the shocker will lead you to many problems, some people thinks this instructable is a lie, just because they burnt out the transistor without knowing it...

Tip on soldering:Instead of risking a burnt-out transistor, use a heat sink like an alligator/crocodile clip to keep the transistor cool enough while desoldering and soldering.

Step 4: The Beginning of the Hardest Part Ever...

Okay, here we go, build the shocker, the hardest part ever...

Read step by step through this instructable until you get to the end...

Okay, get all of the wanted components, fire up the soldering iron, turn on your work lamp, get a magnifying glass, and HERE WE GO!!!

Also I made a schematic and a design that should help you how to build a shocker...


Step 0: Start with a five pin transformer.


UPDATE - 9, October, 2008
I have improved the schematics, I hope it is easier for you to read.

Step 5: Hardest Part Ever... Step 1

Solder the transistor's base to the pin 4 of the transformer and solder the transistor's collector to the pin 1 of the transformer.

Again don't forget what I said... (Kind of)
Be very careful when soldering the transistor on the shocker, they are very heat sensitive, so solder it on quickly otherwise the transistor will burn out without showing any signs of being dead. Using the dead transistor on the shocker will lead you to many problems, some people thinks this instructable is a lie, just because they burnt out the transistor without knowing it...

Step 6: Hardest Part Ever... Step 2

Solder one lead of the 220 ohm resistor to the pin 2 of the transformer and solder the resistor's other lead to the pin 3 of the transformer.

Step 7: Hardest Part Ever... Step 3

Solder the cathode lead of the diode to the pin 5 of the transformer.

Step 8: Hardest Part Ever... Step 4

Solder one lead of the film capacitor to the anode of the diode and solder the other lead of the capacitor to the pin 2 of the transformer.

You might need to make one of the capacitor's leads longer with some wire to reach to the pin 2 of the transformer.

Step 9: Hardest Part Ever... Step 5

Okay, you are almost there!

Solder the 0v of the battery wire to the emitter of the transistor, solder the positive voltage of the battery wire to the pin 2 of the transformer, and solder the high voltage output wire to the cathode of the diode and the capacitor.

Step 10: Hardest Part Ever...DONE!!!

DONE!!! You did it! You had completed the world's smallest electronic shocker!

Step 11: Testing... Testing...

Okay, now it is time to test the shocker to see id it works...

Yay! Mine works!

If yours does not work, calm down, don't get so angry and blow off your head about hours of work for nothing.
First, check your shocker closely, are there any wires touching each other? If so, move them apart a bit.
If it still does not work, you probably killed the transistor from putting the soldering iron on its leads for to long, replace the transistor and don't keep the soldering iron on its leads for to long again. If it still does not work, build another shocker.

And if it STILL does not work, well I guess you can you can go very angry, and smash up the "I won't work for you!" shocker with a hammer and get over it.

Step 12: More Shockers!

I made a shocker with an AA battery, it is very small - it can be well hidden in my hand.

I also built a shocker into a dark blue battery pack, and it packs a pretty powerful punch. I then gave it to one of my friends for him to use for halloween - but then, I later found out he trashed it for no reason... :-(

I modified a orange flash light with a hidden shocker inside! But it is not very effective...

Step 13: Have Fun Electrocuting People and Don't Get Caught by the Police!

Okay, you had built the World's Smallest Electronic Shocker and now have fun electrocuting people and don't get caught by the police! (That wouldn't be good!)

To use the shocker, the victim must touch the live -450v wire and the +1.5v wire to get a unpleasant shock...

The pain of a 450v shock is the equivalent of getting a really nasty static shock from a car. But the shock from the shocker gives a continuous shock...

Also, if you want the shocker to give more painful shocks to the victim, you just simply increase the input voltage!

So, if you give it:
  • 1.5v input = 450v output.
  • 3v input = 900v output.
  • 4.5v input = 1200v output.
  • 9v input = 2700v output. (OUCH!)

Please note the higher voltage you give to the shocker, the sooner it will burn out. If you give the shocker 9 volts, it WILL not survive longer than a few seconds... It is the best if you feed your shocker only 1.5 volt, it may hurts less, but it won't burn out.

Here one fun thing you can do with the shocker.. And this is Kiteman's idea, so credits to Kiteman. (I also edit it a bit to make it better.)

What you can do is wire up the shocker to a battery with a switch and make the 450v wire and the 1.5v wire long and then box it up in a small plastic case (except the long wires) to prevent shocking your self...

Then put the shocker in your pocket and have the long wires running down your jacket or long sleeve and put a insulator like a bandage on your finger tip to insulate you (so you don't shock your self). Then put the bare ends of the wires on top of the bandage and tape it down.

And now you are for some fun! Go into the crowded school corridor and touch people with your electrified finger tip, you might not want to touch the girls as they have a bad habit of screaming their head off if they get an unexpecting surprise, but go ahead and touch them if you want...
Or maybe go into the dinner queue and shock people as they slap the mashed potato on his/her tray...

And what other funny and fun things you can do with this such a small shocker?

Need help, or have a question, or found an error, or anything? Make a comment! I like comments.

Also, can you please rate this instructable if you like it? Please?

<p>Grate work. Can't wait to try it.</p>
<p> For the sake of accuracy, it's NOT the &quot;voltage&quot; that can harm you, it's how much CURRENT that's behind it that counts, and the FREQUENCY of that current; (for reference, see the various pix all over the internet, etc., of Nikola Tesla sitting in a room full of multi-million-volt arcs, yet none are touching him, or the pix of his holding a rather large glass &quot;bulb&quot; that's been evacuated &amp; coated with a fine white powder of who-knows-what-he-used, which lit up his lab only when he was holding it; NO wires at all. (He had an &quot;antenna&quot; type of arrangement connected to a then-considered &quot;high-frequency&quot; alternator, filling the room with high-frequency wireless energy, &amp; when he picked up the glass bulb, he was the &quot;receiving antenna&quot; which got enough of the low-freq RF, (by today's standards), to radiate from him into the bulb to cause it to flouresce, hence the term we still use today, &quot;flourescent&quot; lamps. Only the frequency is different.)</p><p> I am presently sitting next to an evacuated glass globe with several thousand volts of around 16-kHz applied to it, &amp; when I put my hand near or on it, the &quot;streamers&quot; inside the &quot;Tesla Globe&quot; follow my hand or fingers, but it doesn't harm me at all, &amp; wouldn't even if there wasn't any glass between me &amp; the high-frequency power-source causing the effects in the glass bulb; I don't feel a thing.</p><p> Look up &quot;Skin Effect&quot; to find out why a &quot;microwave&quot; oven, (they actually operate at upper-UHF frequencies), use a short length of otherwise-empty rectangular &quot;waveguide&quot; to get the output from the magnetron tube, at around 2-1/2-gHz or so, into the cooking area, which is actually a &quot;tuned cavity&quot;, and you'll learn a little about why certain frequencies can pass OVER, but not THROUGH, the body, &amp; let you do things like scare the daylights out of someone when you point one finger at a genuine Tesla Coil's output, and the finger of your other hand at them, with sparks streaming from the output-dome or torus of the coil to you, OVER your body, &amp; then to the person you are pointing at, yet no one is harmed in any way. (Do NOT do this unless you KNOW what you are doing! Too many so-called &quot;Tesla coils&quot; can be heard to be humming at 60-Hz or 120-Hz, and THAT WILL cause a LOT of harm, or kill you; a GENUINE &quot;Tesla Coil&quot; operates at &quot;High Frequency&quot;, which is what Mr. Tesla kept emphasizing, but even today, those who choose not to listen missed that little detail.)</p><p> I have a lot of fun on Hallowe'en, when I put a piece of candy to a kid's &quot;goody-bag&quot;, with sparks flying off of my fingertips, complete with arcing noises.</p><p> I also put an HV-jacketed 100-megohm safety resistor in series with the Hi-Voltage wire connected to me somewhere under my jacket, and run the oscillator that runs the frequency of the step-up circuit to the output coil at around 16-kHz, so the CURRENT goes OVER me, and not through me.</p><p> And yes, I've been &quot;bitten&quot; by DC High-Voltage more times than I can count; it's why my hair is white, but I'm not nearly old enough to have white hair naturally... People who survive being hit by a lightning strike often have all of their hair go white; we don't know why, it just does, so that's why I emphasize that you must KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING before &quot;playing&quot; with any currents over a few microamperes. (Less than that shouldn't normally harm a normal human, regardless of voltage, BUT if someone has a latent heart problem, etc., even that small amount of current can cause a fatality, so always do your homework FIRST!)</p><p> Your &quot;Instructable&quot; is nice work, considering the tools you had to use &amp; so on.</p><p> Now, you need to learn how to make the thing HARMLESS before &quot;shocking&quot; anyone; if made to operate properly, most people will swear that they &quot;felt&quot; the spark when they couldn't have, IF they saw &amp; heard it...</p><p> The same goes with carefully shaping a piece of very cold ice to the the same dimensions as a cigarette, carefully drying the end, then touching it to the back of the neck of someone in a room full of people smoking cigarettes; they'll swear they've just been burned, until they realize there's no burn, and you show them the piece of (rapidly-melting) ice.</p><p> It's what their first instinct tells them was the most likely thing they felt; logic takes over a split-second later, when you showed them the piece of ice that actually touched them. (The same nerve-endings which transmit &quot;hot&quot;, also tell us we're &quot;cold&quot;, which makes that prank work.)</p><p> We used to call things like that &quot;Party Tricks&quot;; just make sure your &quot;victim&quot; doesn't have a weak heart!</p><p> The high-frequency, almost-no-current spark shouldn't even be felt; it's the eyes &amp; ears that are telling the brain &quot;You've just been shocked!&quot;, as long as you make certain that you can't feel it either.</p><p> Since this can't be stressed too much: DON'T do things like that unless you KNOW what you're DOING!</p><p> &quot;Playing&quot; with electricity can be entertaining &amp; a learning experience, IF no one is harmed &amp; you don't set fire to anyone or anything while you're doing it, and you know exactly what you're doing BEFORE you do it.</p><p> (I had 5-Watts of around 454-mHz go into my finger, {that's 454,000,000 cycles-per-second}, &amp; while it hurt like mad, it wasn't enough to get out of me; I was the &quot;output antenna&quot;, &amp; the energy radiated equally out of the surface of my body, but the mark where it went INTO me took a few decades to finally fade away; a co-worker who should've known better, (but didn't), touched the output terminal of an operating 2.513-gHz transmitting tube while the transmitter was on, {that's 2,513,000,000 cycles-per-second}, and when he showed me the half-inch-long carbon-track on his finger, I asked him &quot;which foot did it go out of?&quot;; he took off his right shoe, and there was the matching carbon-track from the RF-burn on his big toe, where the 100-Watt signal had exited his body &amp; gone to ground. Fortunately, he was young and the power had gone in his right finger &amp; out his right foot; if it had gone across his hands, or through his LEFT side, it may well have caused his heart to stop, so be CAREFUL! when you're working with enough electricity to overcome your skin-resistance, so you don't become a statistic.)</p><p> We need good younger Techs &amp; Engineers, but NOT dead ones, so I wish you well in your studies, and always remember to &quot;do your homework&quot; FIRST, so you don't become a statistic!</p><p> Not all frequencies will go over the human body, as evidenced by my getting thrown across the room &amp; burned, and my co-worker getting burned at freq's in the millions or billions of cycles-per-second ranges, but there's plenty of info on the internet and other places to learn to &quot;do it safely&quot;, so by all means, &quot;read &amp; heed&quot; before &quot;diving into an empty pool&quot;!</p><p> Some key-words to search on are: Tesla, High-Frequency, skin-effect, &quot;I.F.&quot;, &quot;R.F.&quot;, waveguide, microwaves, millimeter-waves, wavelength; you get the idea.</p><p> Keep up the interest &amp; experiments, &amp; study what's going on to understand it, and you'll no doubt become a good Electrical Engineer, so experiment safely!</p>
Thanks for the explanation.Is this taser safe to use ?
Re:your question of April 7 2017:<br> I don't have the schematic in front of me, so I can't accurately answer your question, + I don't know what your intended end-use is. If you're looking for a &quot;just a parlor-trick&quot; kind of thing, it's &quot;limit the input power, limit the output power, &amp; if it doesn't hurt YOU, it shouldn't harm anyone else&quot;, BUT, if you're looking for a &quot;stun-gun&quot; kind of output, (that'll go through 8 layers of heavy steer-hide &amp; knock whoever's wearing the jacket flat, or throw them across the room), then it's far better to buy one &quot;ready-made&quot;. There are sources that sell that kind of thing for self-defense use, (some also have different kinds of bright lights at the &quot;business-end&quot;), which may or may not be legal where you are, for very little, relatively speaking. Since I obviously don't get on here much, it'd be better to ask your question to the people who ARE &quot;paid-members&quot; on here, &amp; tell them what you want to DO with the thing; that should get you a lot more help than I can give you, other than telling you that if you're looking for something in either the &quot;parlor-trick&quot; OR the &quot;stun-gun&quot; capacity, the places I get a lot of my inexpensive ready-made stuff are &quot;geek.com&quot; &amp; &quot;wish.com&quot;. At the low prices they charge, you could get something from them, &amp; see how a commercially-made unit is built, &amp; then make your own based on one of those; just don't break any laws or hurt anyone with anything, &amp; you should be OK to go.<br>Sorry I can't be of more help. (Springtime cleaning &amp; all of that).<br>Cheers,<br> Phoenix N.<br>
I don't recall if this project says what the freq &amp; output current are, so I can't give you a simple &quot;yes&quot; or &quot;no&quot; as to your question. The simple formula for figuring out the current, is to know what the output impedance is, &amp; then take the output in Watts &amp; divide it by either the square of the impedance OR the EMF in Volts, &amp; you'll get the current in Amperes. (There's another formula for figuring the output current from Power in Watts divided by the EMF in Volts &amp; get something like the Resistance (Impedance) squared, or something like that; I forgot exactly what that formula is, at the moment, but if the output current, (in milli- or micro-amps), is kept low, &amp; the frequency is around the 15kHz-20kHz range, it SHOULD be safe. Look up the basic formulas in an &quot;Electronics-101&quot; book, &amp; you should find what you're looking for. (I don't see my &quot;go-to&quot; book to quote the numbers from to give you, or I would.)<br>Happy playing, &amp; be careful!<br> Phoenix_NightOwl<br>(P.S.: you can make a simple &quot;AC voltage up-converter&quot;, with an inexpensive &quot;speaker output transformer&quot; from Radio Shack or similar; the kind that average about 10k-ohms CT (Center-Tapped) on one side, &amp; 8-ohms on the other; put an appropriate resistance in series with it, &amp; feed around a 15kHz-20kHz signal into the 8-ohm (&quot;output&quot;)-side, &amp; the 10k-ohm &quot;input&quot;-side, (used here as the &quot;output&quot;), will step up the 18kHz-average freq by enough to &quot;get your attention&quot;.<br> We used to use those to keep our tool-boxes closed; since the 10k-ohm side of the transformer had a center-tap, it made an ideal component to be driven by a simple 2N2222A transistor or NE555 timer ckt. Just a thought.)<br> Phoenix N.
can i add a resistor to limit current to make it more safe if i can where to add the resistor. In wire when current goes from battery to transformer or from battery to transistor
Just a FYI, Tesla said the pictures of him sitting in the room with the high voltage discharges were double exposures
Very true; one of the best-known pix of Tesla sitting in his lab with zillion-volt arcs flying everywhere around him WAS indeed &quot;staged&quot;, at the request of the photographer. He had the equipment shut off, &amp; the lens-cap was removed for a moment while N.T. was sitting in a chair reading a newspaper; then, he &amp; the chair were removed, the power was applied, &amp; the arcs flew while the lens-cap was again removed for a very short instant, resulting in the double-exposure we've all seen so many times.<br> (If the chair hadn't been removed for the 2nd part of the film-exposure, the arcs would have hit it, &amp; the illusion would have been an obvious 'fake'.)<br> There were also only one or two photos of N.T. drawing an arc to his finger by pointing at the torus of a (&quot;Genuine&quot;) operating Tesla Coil, &amp; then pointing toward someone else in the room, &amp; it would appear to go &quot;through&quot; several people before either finding a ground, or just &quot;dying out&quot;. Samuel Clemens, (a.k.a. &quot;Mark Twain&quot;), was said to have greatly enjoyed taking part in this specific &quot;parlor trick&quot;.<br> Phoenix N.
...And for the FYI, Sam Clemens, a.k.a. Mark Twain, (who was Tesla's close personal friend), also said he &quot;greatly enjoyed&quot; having Nikola draw an arc to himself, then pass it to Twain, who would pass it to someone else or to a grounded object.<br> When it comes to N. Tesla, I've done more than my share of homework, and I'm aware of the photos you're referring to; those aren't the one's I was referring to, though. &quot;No Harm, no foul&quot; :)<br>
Some folks don't understand that and hurt themselves. Then there's these kids thinking it's funny to shock others ... I've done my share of researching Tesla to the point of vomiting, that dude had a way of taking credit for a LOT of others work. Good thing Marconi did what he did proving that path goes both ways.
<p>How about &quot;screwballs&quot; ..... you guys arguing bout trivial terminology is OFF TOPIC and wastes everyone's time. Most people can tell a slot from a phillips screwdriver just by looking at them; RIght?</p>
<p> Yes, but can you tell a Phillips from an &quot;ISO&quot; screwdriver, or screw?</p><p> (Hint: the &quot;ISO&quot; screw has a little &quot;dot&quot; between two of the 4 &quot;flutes&quot;, on the top-surface of the screw.)</p><p> They don't quite fit Phillips, nor the superior-design of the old &quot;Reed-&amp;-Prince&quot; screws, but they'll ruin a small standard Phillips screwdriver in a hurry.</p><p> Just as a friendly FYI, &quot;ISO&quot; stands for &quot;International Standards Organization&quot;, but just try to find a driver to buy... if you DO find a source, would you be so kind as to tell the rest of us, or at least me, where on earth to GET some?</p><p> &quot;Pretty Please&quot;?</p><p> I've been seriously trying to find one since the late 1970's, with no luck.</p><p> The only one I've ever had, was hand-made for me by a retired Master Machinist, who used to live up the street from where I lived, when I was around 17 yrs young, &amp; has long since disappeared.</p><p> Many Thanks in advance!</p>
<p>Plasmana, if you're not an Amateur Radio Operator (a Ham), please contact your local amateur radio club. You've got a great start on a wonderful, lifelong hobby. Nice instructable!</p><p>You've done well on soldering, but I have a hint. Use tweezers or small needlenose pliers to form a small loop or crook in the end of the lead that you're connecting. Assemble the joint, then crush the loop so that it will hold fast while you're soldering the junction. Solder is a good electrical connecting material, but not so good for a mechanical connection. If you build a good mechanical connection, then cover it with solder, you've got it made.</p><p>W4YBO</p>
<p>plus won. always create a mechanical connection that will hold the wires while you solder them. a tight fit means less chance of a cold solder. the hp way; bunny goes through hole, then is mated. and yes, ham radio is the next internet.</p>
<p>First Internet. We were sending Packet switched network messages and doing APRS (Automatic Position Reporting System - used by OnStar, Police, Fire, EMS - invented by a Ham I have communicated with) since before there were dial up modems on the market.</p>
<p> Sounds like we may have more in common than I'd first thought.</p><p> I knew OF a &quot;J. T. McFadden&quot;, (or &quot;MacFadden&quot;?), &quot;back in the day&quot;, when I was doing satellite earth-station work in Rockville Maryland. (Would have been in the later half of the 1980's.)</p><p> Did you happen to know a &quot;J. Draper&quot; ? (NOT the one who kept getting busted for &quot;fone phreaking&quot;)... Just curious. And you really &quot;hit it on the head&quot; about &quot;Hams&quot; doing things before anyone else, most of the time; although to whoever said they'd thought that Marconi had &quot;taken Tesla down a peg&quot;, or something like that, I do recall that Marconi was found by the Supreme Court, around the mid-1960's, I think, to have indeed infringed on at least 16 of N. Tesla's Patents, just as N.T. had claimed.</p><p> When Albert Einstein had been asked &quot;What's it like to be a genius?&quot;, Prof. Einstein replied &quot;I wouldn't know; I think you should ask Nikola Tesla that question.&quot;</p><p> Says a lot... :)</p><p> N3VQK</p>
<p>dude, im not plasmana, but im actually thinking of doing ham radio, is it any good?</p>
<p>It must be pretty good!! I've been licensed since 1983. My first license as a &quot;novice&quot; was in 1965, but the code requirement to up-grade back in the day, was not do-able for me. In the years since 1983 I was able to raise my code speed, but fortunately the FCC discontinued the code requirements, and I now hold a &quot;general&quot; class ticket. I am proud to be able to use Morse code even though it's no longer required. Ham radio is awesome. The people in it are top-notch. I wish you luck. KA0HSS----73</p>
<p>Personally I get a kick out of low power operation and seeing how many miles per watt I get. I once communicated with a guy in Ukraine on 5 watts from NC. And made a contact with an orbiting Space Shuttle at a range of 2600 miles (altitude 169 miles UP) on 35 watts. It's a kick when you grew up on &quot;Kirk to Enterprise&quot;. (We send post cards back and forth to prove contact was made. called QSL cards.)<br><br>And making it to Extra is not very easy, but can be done with some study and help from other hams. Technician is very easy, mostly study and theory as well as rules. I made it WITH Morse code, but no longer required. Odd coincidence, Ivan, and John and John are chatting, and Ivan is the Russian form of &quot;John&quot;.</p>
<p>Hi Ivan! It's a lot of fun! The way the licensing is structured now, there's no Morse code requirement, and the Technician license gets you on VHF+ (30 MHz and up). My XYL (wife) did that and keeps a little Icom 2 m/70 cm in the glove compartment, just for emergencies (and for me to play with when we're out in her car.) I'm licensed as General class and will be rebuilding my station this weekend since I finally replaced my computer. I enjoy digital modes, like PSK31 on 20m, and APRS on 2m. Regardless of your interests, you'll find something cool as a Ham.</p><p>Look for a Hamfest in your area. Great place to meet others with similar interests, and tons of parts and gear. Unfortunately, ARRL Field Day (remote/emergency operations practice) was on June 25-26, last weekend. That's usually a good place to get a start. Visit ARRL.org for listings of local clubs and hamfests.</p><p>73 de W4YBO (Best wishes from Me)</p>
<p>73! W4YBO from AA4PC<br><br>Good points. I use a pair of locking forceps to pre-tin delicate components, it acts as a heat sink to keep the heat where it belongs, on the joint, and not in the transistor or whatever. I also do as you do and hold the joint in physical contact before applying heat and holding it till cool to prevent a &quot;cold&quot; solder joint. Often I use a socketed component to avoid the heat altogether.<br><br>You're right, this young person has real potential as a ham radio operator. Surprising so many are &quot;down&quot; on him and his little creation.</p>
<p>Good point on the forceps. I have a pair of bulldog tweezers I use the same way.</p><p>I'm re-building my shack this weekend after a PC upgrade, but hopefully I'll be back on 14.070 MHz Sunday evening</p><p>73 de W4YBO</p>
<p>I have to have an antenna party, my HF antenna needs putting up... I have a nice rig that will go almost from daylight to the top of the 160m band, and no HF antenna. Have never operated on 160 meters.</p>
<p>I use a GAP Voyager DX for 160 - 20 meters. Counterpoise, no radials, plus it gives our Kestrels a nice perch. Rebuilding (actually, avoiding stepping on) a Cushcraft R8 in the basement.</p>
<p>I &quot;Cheated&quot; and bought the extended G5RV offered that is SUPPOSED to cover 160 to 20 with a tuner. My hands don't work like they used to from arthritis, so I bought one. Puttign it up will prove more difficult than building one, I think.</p>
<p>Nice to make your acquaintance &quot;Mac&quot;. Perhaps on the air one day.</p>
Well i made it but when AA battery connected it make a noise the battery make a noise
T
<p>What is the rating of the transformer? I don't have a spare camera but I can buy all the parts online.</p>
Do you absolutely need the 22nF capacitor?, it looks just like a smoothing capacitor.
<p>I am a novice but handy with my hands and tools and a quick learner... I may be wrong but in your first illustration there appears to be only one lead emanating from the device and in the second illustration below there are two lead which you suggested we touch with our fingers. That is the device I wish to build having two leads. can you please help me with this? Thank you. Dan </p>
This instructable is awesome thank you
You may want to consider editing your suggestions on this device use. To suggest shocking a person reaps legal consequences. Your worst nightmare does not share your dark humour.
<p>I applaud your creative use of recycled parts and the 'fun' nature of your project. It might be best only to use it among your own 'crowd', or there may be trouble, and I recommend no one should ever take this to school, or a suspension or expulsion might occur.<br><br>Your project is the very low end basis for a Tazer, which uses a vibrator circuit to switch it on and off repeatedly. The signal is AC, high voltage &amp; very, very low amperage. The human nervous system especially motor nerves and muscular control, as well as sensory nerves work on FM signals. A Tazer overwhelms the system monetarily and causes the 'target' to be temporarily stunned. So, before you go further, IN THE USA, the following states BAN civilian use or ownership of Tazers. Your device MIGHT be classed that way if someone called police on you. The states (and some cities) are:</p><p>States: New York, Illinois, Massachusetts, Michigan, New Jersey, Rhode Island, Wisconsin, Hawaii, </p><p>Cities: Annapolis, MD; Baltimore, MD; Crawford County, IA; District Of Columbia, Philadelphia, PA</p><p>Good work, and use your powers for good , not evil! (If you live outside the USA, check with the local and state authorities before you work with something like this. You may be inadvertently crossing a line with the law.)</p>
It only takes one complaint and cops are on you faster than white on rice
<p>c'mon; we already had similar devices in a ballpointpen-look-alike over 40 years ago, and of course, we took it to school and tried to let unaware teachers and other kids &quot;sign&quot; something. The moment they pressed the button on top to get out the mine usually was followed by the moment, when the &quot;pen&quot; flew across the classroom and the swearing (and the laughing of those &quot;knowing&quot;) started &gt;:-) That's the only reason why you make such things ...</p>
<p>But YOU c'mon. It's 2016, and last year a kid chewed his pop-tart into <br>the shape of a handgun and was expelled from school. Catch up with the <br>latest news. Schools are scared crap-less! I say Zero-Tolerance is bull <br>crap, but that DID happen.<br><br>If you carried your Napoleon Solo <br>shocking communicator pen with teacher launched parts, you'd be expelled too... This <br>would get you arrested. Let's not forget the kid who took apart a clock <br>and made a project out of it, then got suspended and THEN invited to the <br>White House, because, well honestly, the President liked him, you <br>figure out why...</p>
<p>Wow! Really well done, good instructable too, i am 57 years old and if i have to do this instructions it should be not as good as yours! Please keep doing it, just take advantage of your youth and clear thinking and disregard the critics.</p>
<p>Good instructable. I can easily build one from it. So, I had no trouble with your instructions at all. Well done. I make defensive walking canes for the elderly (mainly to fend off dog attacks since we have several strays that can be agressive). I usually use tiny spikes that irritate a dog's mouth so it can not bite the cane a peron might use to ward off a dog. This little shocker seems ideal for improving the design. My only problem might be for an elderly person using a pace maker or a defibrillator implant. An accidental zap might prove lethal to them. But, for a person without such devices, I can see how this little zapper would be very helpful.</p>
<p>Great instructable! Unfortunately, where I live it is not very easy to find a different source for a transformer and capacitor.</p>
<p>I dunno 'bout your country, but here in South Africa we have special &quot;schools&quot; where we send kids like you 'till they are old enough to appear in an &quot;adult&quot; court! <strong>;-))</strong></p><p>Nice Instructable, and nothing wrong with you grammar either!</p>
<p>You have a good point, in some countries, you might get sent to the head of a class waiting for a trial date. In Russia, lord knows if you'd end up in a Gulag or something...</p>
<p>The kid is really a future genious engineer! I wish I were as talented when I was his age. Actually ham radio has been a forerunner of internet. </p><p>Best 73s to all hams...</p><p>de SV1BA</p>
<p>I'm really impressed kid! Good Job! It seems almost too simple to work.</p><p>~Sheldon KG7DTC</p>
<p>Hi Plasmana....looks like you're headed for engineering, so don't worry too much about your grammer. There's an old saying &quot;Yesterday I wanted to be an engineer. Today I are one.&quot; lol Take care. </p>
<p>Great instructable- wish you would make more! I saw your other one regarding getting free parts and appreciate the content and the fact that you supply plenty of relevant links. </p>
<p>Nice, although it might make everything way easier if you were to mount the parts to a tiny piece of perf board or something like that.</p>
<p>I commend the author for making safety a serious consideration.</p>
<p>Why are my posts double and triple posting!!!????...sorry about that...I don't mean to be annoying...HONEST!!!...my apologies</p>
<p>You, and administrators can delete your inadvertent duplicate posts. look for the word [delete] in orange after your post... I'm not an administrator, but you can &quot;clean up&quot; if you want.</p>

About This Instructable

608,255views

989favorites

License:

Bio: &ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash; &quot;Energy cannot be created nor destroyed!&quot; &ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;
More by Plasmana:How To Build A Simple But Powerful Flyback Driver ZVS Flyback Driver - Video Close ups on electronics 
Add instructable to: