Step 4: The beginning of the hardest part ever...

Okay, here we go, build the shocker, the hardest part ever...

Read step by step through this instructable until you get to the end...

Okay, get all of the wanted components, fire up the soldering iron, turn on your work lamp, get a magnifying glass, and HERE WE GO!!!

Also I made a schematic and a design that should help you how to build a shocker...

Step 0: Start with a five pin transformer.

UPDATE - 9, October, 2008
I have improved the schematics, I hope it is easier for you to read.
<p>I suppose it comes down to where you live and work. I have been in construction and mining for over 20 years in Australia and have always known it as a FlatHead Screwdriver and never heard it reffered to as a FlatBlade Screwdriver. In the end, it is a lot of hoo-ha about nothing. It doesnt matter what the name is, it still works the same ;)</p>
<p>'Flat-head' is also used in the U.S. but it is inaccurate because a 'slotted' screw has many other forms than just flat-head. And a 'slot-head' screwdriver, or <a href="http://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-Hardware-Hand-Tools-Screwdrivers-Nut-Drivers-Screwdrivers-Slotted-Screwdrivers/N-5yc1vZc997" rel="nofollow">Slotted Screwdriver</a> as Home Depot calls them, will work on all of 'em. ;)</p>
<p>I hate to get into a battle of accuracy over a name, but as I said previously, Location, location, location....</p><p>Because it is innacurate in US, does not mean it is innacurate in other countries.. </p><p>but hey, whats in a name.</p>
<p>Then don't&hellip; But I disagree that location makes any difference in this case. The screw and the screwdriver are universal and so is accuracy. Just because the uniformed use slang doesn't make it any more accurate. As a matter of fact, I was working with an Australian mechanical engineer and I asked him if he had a Crescent wrench. He laughed and made some insulting remark about Americans, and said it's an Adjustable Wrench. So much for your 'location' theory.</p><p>An added complication is the existence of the flat-head Phillips screw, which requires a Phillips screwdriver. So to say 'flat-head' screwdriver is ambiguous at best. Slot-head/Slotted screwdriver, Phillips-head/Phillips screwdriver, OK. Flat-head screwdriver, not OK.</p>
Next time, just use pliers. <br>Sheesh.
<p>Ayuh! That would work really well with any flat-head screw&hellip;</p>
<p>If pliers won't work, use a hammer.</p>
<p>Uhhhhhhhh&hellip; I think maybe you're on the wrong site. Try <a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Be-a-Troll" rel="nofollow">How to Be a Troll - wikiHow</a>. ;)</p>
<p>Better yet...</p><p><a href="http://www.instructables.com/howto/troll/" rel="nofollow">http://www.instructables.com/howto/troll/</a></p>;-)
<p>Actually, there's no such thing as a flathead screwdriver, it's a flat head screw, i.e. it's not domed. A flat bladed screwdriver has a flat blade as opposed to a crosshead or pozidrive. But your right, who cares? </p>
<p>*you're ;-)</p>
Well put. I concur though your reply was a little more polite than mine.
<p>The author DID apologize for his age and admittedly poor grammar. Your badgering him about the difference between flat head and slotted screwdrivers is cruel. <br><br>There is a be nice policy, and I am appalled at you. Slot blade screw drivers are commonly referred to as many things, but most often as flat blade or flat head. Phillips blades are often referred to as cross point and many other things by those not constantly burying their head in a tool catalog.<br><br>I applaud this young person for DOING something rather than sitting on the sidelines and criticizing anything that can be found that isn't STANDARD for you.</p>
Oh man, you had to throw the word &quot;standard&quot; into the &quot;name this screwdriver&quot; debate!?
<p>Before the Phillips/Cross point/&quot;+&quot; screw and matching driver (and others) were invented, the Flat Bladed screw driver was the ONLY STANDARD.<br><br>And since we're on a forum that is International, what's standard in the USA is (Oddly - Imperial inches, feet, yards) and where the Empire we in the US sprang from it's freaking Metric. (A fact that is lost on as few now unemployed NASA engineers, but I diverge.)<br><br>In reality I was commenting on a person's comment (since removed for NOT nice). Standards exist so that we can say 3/8&quot; and you'll know what socket wrench I need and you can say 10mm and I know you'll need my metric.<br><br>Slotted vs. flat blade vs. &quot;standard&quot; we kind of all know what that means.</p>
<p>I ran into a pair of Japanese techs from Hitachi that called them (+) plus and (-) minus screwdrivers.</p>
<p>Wow! Really well done, good instructable too, i am 57 years old and if i have to do this instructions it should be not as good as yours! Please keep doing it, just take advantage of your youth and clear thinking and disregard the critics.</p>
<p>Plasmana, if you're not an Amateur Radio Operator (a Ham), please contact your local amateur radio club. You've got a great start on a wonderful, lifelong hobby. Nice instructable!</p><p>You've done well on soldering, but I have a hint. Use tweezers or small needlenose pliers to form a small loop or crook in the end of the lead that you're connecting. Assemble the joint, then crush the loop so that it will hold fast while you're soldering the junction. Solder is a good electrical connecting material, but not so good for a mechanical connection. If you build a good mechanical connection, then cover it with solder, you've got it made.</p><p>W4YBO</p>
<p>dude, im not plasmana, but im actually thinking of doing ham radio, is it any good?</p>
<p>It must be pretty good!! I've been licensed since 1983. My first license as a &quot;novice&quot; was in 1965, but the code requirement to up-grade back in the day, was not do-able for me. In the years since 1983 I was able to raise my code speed, but fortunately the FCC discontinued the code requirements, and I now hold a &quot;general&quot; class ticket. I am proud to be able to use Morse code even though it's no longer required. Ham radio is awesome. The people in it are top-notch. I wish you luck. KA0HSS----73</p>
<p>Personally I get a kick out of low power operation and seeing how many miles per watt I get. I once communicated with a guy in Ukraine on 5 watts from NC. And made a contact with an orbiting Space Shuttle at a range of 2600 miles (altitude 169 miles UP) on 35 watts. It's a kick when you grew up on &quot;Kirk to Enterprise&quot;. (We send post cards back and forth to prove contact was made. called QSL cards.)<br><br>And making it to Extra is not very easy, but can be done with some study and help from other hams. Technician is very easy, mostly study and theory as well as rules. I made it WITH Morse code, but no longer required. Odd coincidence, Ivan, and John and John are chatting, and Ivan is the Russian form of &quot;John&quot;.</p>
<p>Hi Ivan! It's a lot of fun! The way the licensing is structured now, there's no Morse code requirement, and the Technician license gets you on VHF+ (30 MHz and up). My XYL (wife) did that and keeps a little Icom 2 m/70 cm in the glove compartment, just for emergencies (and for me to play with when we're out in her car.) I'm licensed as General class and will be rebuilding my station this weekend since I finally replaced my computer. I enjoy digital modes, like PSK31 on 20m, and APRS on 2m. Regardless of your interests, you'll find something cool as a Ham.</p><p>Look for a Hamfest in your area. Great place to meet others with similar interests, and tons of parts and gear. Unfortunately, ARRL Field Day (remote/emergency operations practice) was on June 25-26, last weekend. That's usually a good place to get a start. Visit ARRL.org for listings of local clubs and hamfests.</p><p>73 de W4YBO (Best wishes from Me)</p>
<p>73! W4YBO from AA4PC<br><br>Good points. I use a pair of locking forceps to pre-tin delicate components, it acts as a heat sink to keep the heat where it belongs, on the joint, and not in the transistor or whatever. I also do as you do and hold the joint in physical contact before applying heat and holding it till cool to prevent a &quot;cold&quot; solder joint. Often I use a socketed component to avoid the heat altogether.<br><br>You're right, this young person has real potential as a ham radio operator. Surprising so many are &quot;down&quot; on him and his little creation.</p>
<p>Good point on the forceps. I have a pair of bulldog tweezers I use the same way.</p><p>I'm re-building my shack this weekend after a PC upgrade, but hopefully I'll be back on 14.070 MHz Sunday evening</p><p>73 de W4YBO</p>
<p>I have to have an antenna party, my HF antenna needs putting up... I have a nice rig that will go almost from daylight to the top of the 160m band, and no HF antenna. Have never operated on 160 meters.</p>
<p>I use a GAP Voyager DX for 160 - 20 meters. Counterpoise, no radials, plus it gives our Kestrels a nice perch. Rebuilding (actually, avoiding stepping on) a Cushcraft R8 in the basement.</p>
<p>I &quot;Cheated&quot; and bought the extended G5RV offered that is SUPPOSED to cover 160 to 20 with a tuner. My hands don't work like they used to from arthritis, so I bought one. Puttign it up will prove more difficult than building one, I think.</p>
<p>plus won. always create a mechanical connection that will hold the wires while you solder them. a tight fit means less chance of a cold solder. the hp way; bunny goes through hole, then is mated. and yes, ham radio is the next internet.</p>
<p>First Internet. We were sending Packet switched network messages and doing APRS (Automatic Position Reporting System - used by OnStar, Police, Fire, EMS - invented by a Ham I have communicated with) since before there were dial up modems on the market.</p>
<p>Nice to make your acquaintance &quot;Mac&quot;. Perhaps on the air one day.</p>
<p>Good instructable. I can easily build one from it. So, I had no trouble with your instructions at all. Well done. I make defensive walking canes for the elderly (mainly to fend off dog attacks since we have several strays that can be agressive). I usually use tiny spikes that irritate a dog's mouth so it can not bite the cane a peron might use to ward off a dog. This little shocker seems ideal for improving the design. My only problem might be for an elderly person using a pace maker or a defibrillator implant. An accidental zap might prove lethal to them. But, for a person without such devices, I can see how this little zapper would be very helpful.</p>
<p>How about &quot;screwballs&quot; ..... you guys arguing bout trivial terminology is OFF TOPIC and wastes everyone's time. Most people can tell a slot from a phillips screwdriver just by looking at them; RIght?</p>
<p>Great instructable! Unfortunately, where I live it is not very easy to find a different source for a transformer and capacitor.</p>
<p>I dunno 'bout your country, but here in South Africa we have special &quot;schools&quot; where we send kids like you 'till they are old enough to appear in an &quot;adult&quot; court! <strong>;-))</strong></p><p>Nice Instructable, and nothing wrong with you grammar either!</p>
<p>You have a good point, in some countries, you might get sent to the head of a class waiting for a trial date. In Russia, lord knows if you'd end up in a Gulag or something...</p>
<p>I applaud your creative use of recycled parts and the 'fun' nature of your project. It might be best only to use it among your own 'crowd', or there may be trouble, and I recommend no one should ever take this to school, or a suspension or expulsion might occur.<br><br>Your project is the very low end basis for a Tazer, which uses a vibrator circuit to switch it on and off repeatedly. The signal is AC, high voltage &amp; very, very low amperage. The human nervous system especially motor nerves and muscular control, as well as sensory nerves work on FM signals. A Tazer overwhelms the system monetarily and causes the 'target' to be temporarily stunned. So, before you go further, IN THE USA, the following states BAN civilian use or ownership of Tazers. Your device MIGHT be classed that way if someone called police on you. The states (and some cities) are:</p><p>States: New York, Illinois, Massachusetts, Michigan, New Jersey, Rhode Island, Wisconsin, Hawaii, </p><p>Cities: Annapolis, MD; Baltimore, MD; Crawford County, IA; District Of Columbia, Philadelphia, PA</p><p>Good work, and use your powers for good , not evil! (If you live outside the USA, check with the local and state authorities before you work with something like this. You may be inadvertently crossing a line with the law.)</p>
<p>c'mon; we already had similar devices in a ballpointpen-look-alike over 40 years ago, and of course, we took it to school and tried to let unaware teachers and other kids &quot;sign&quot; something. The moment they pressed the button on top to get out the mine usually was followed by the moment, when the &quot;pen&quot; flew across the classroom and the swearing (and the laughing of those &quot;knowing&quot;) started &gt;:-) That's the only reason why you make such things ...</p>
<p>But YOU c'mon. It's 2016, and last year a kid chewed his pop-tart into <br>the shape of a handgun and was expelled from school. Catch up with the <br>latest news. Schools are scared crap-less! I say Zero-Tolerance is bull <br>crap, but that DID happen.<br><br>If you carried your Napoleon Solo <br>shocking communicator pen with teacher launched parts, you'd be expelled too... This <br>would get you arrested. Let's not forget the kid who took apart a clock <br>and made a project out of it, then got suspended and THEN invited to the <br>White House, because, well honestly, the President liked him, you <br>figure out why...</p>
<p>The kid is really a future genious engineer! I wish I were as talented when I was his age. Actually ham radio has been a forerunner of internet. </p><p>Best 73s to all hams...</p><p>de SV1BA</p>
<p>I'm really impressed kid! Good Job! It seems almost too simple to work.</p><p>~Sheldon KG7DTC</p>
<p>Hi Plasmana....looks like you're headed for engineering, so don't worry too much about your grammer. There's an old saying &quot;Yesterday I wanted to be an engineer. Today I are one.&quot; lol Take care. </p>
<p>Great instructable- wish you would make more! I saw your other one regarding getting free parts and appreciate the content and the fact that you supply plenty of relevant links. </p>
<p>Nice, although it might make everything way easier if you were to mount the parts to a tiny piece of perf board or something like that.</p>

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