Introduction: Build a World's Smallest Electronic Shocker! Version 2.5
It is good to know if the tiny shocker is on or not, by adding a wonderful invention called the "LED", so you don't risk get bitten by the shocker again!
Disclaimer: This shocker can be dangerous if used improperly, it gives out about 400 to 450 volts, so I am NOT responsible if you or anybody are injured or killed by the shocker, the responsibility is yours...
I have been asked by comments and email how to attach a LED to a shocker to indicate it is on. So I then decide to make another instructable how to do that.
And, I have copied and pasted everything from my original shocker instructable onto this instructable and greatly improved the text on every step, also added more steps and replaced some pictures. I am hoping it would be less confusing to you and understand the project better so you can have an higher success in completing this project. :-)
If you do find anything confusing or an error on this instructable, please let me know and I'll fix it.
Step 1: What Type of Disposable Camera Should I Use?
- The best disposable camera you can use for this project are the "Boots" or "Polaroid" types, because they have everything you need.
- The "Kodak" type is a bit more difficult, you need to find the type that uses an LED indicator, NOT a neon bulb indicator, those types will not work. Also, the LED type cameras uses SMD resistors, so you will need to find or buy one 220 ohm and one 100 ohm resistors.
- All other types of cameras like "fuji" ect. will not work because they have an different and/or more complex circuitry.
Step 2: What Else You Will Need From the Junkbox and the Toolbox...
- Some bits wires
- AA battery holder (or other types of battery holder)
- Soldering iron (with a micro-tip if you have one.)
- Hot glue gun.
- Desolder pump (it makes the job much easier, but you could probably get away with out one).
- Flat-head screwdriver.
- Wire strippers.
- Wire cutters.
- Vice (to hold the shocker in place while soldering)
Step 3: Slaughter the Camera!
Now this is going to be a fairly dangerous part, open up the camera and get the circuit out safely without getting shocked by the capacitor...
First, pry open the camera's case apart with a flat-head screwdriver or just use your hands if you like, but you are more likely to get shocked by the capacitor.
After you taken the camera's case off, discharge the capacitor with a insulated screw driver, and you may get a big loud spark, and after that, the capacitor is discharged... (Use a screwdriver you don't like because a charged capacitor will leave a fairly large scar on the metal part of the screwdriver!)
Also, to avoid getting shocked by the capacitor, wear plastic or thick gloves.
Great! You had done the dangerous step on this instructable! Some people say this is the fun part because you get a nice big and loud spark!
Step 4: Gut the Camers's Components
Desolder all of the wanted components off the camera's circuit (I desolder all of mine off of the camera board).
The components we will need from this camera are...
- Ferrite transformer with five pins
- 22nF film capacitor
- Transistor (NPN type)
- Red LED
- 220 ohm resistor - Color code: Red/Red/Brown
- 100 ohm resistor - Color code: Brown/Black/Brown
The 330v 80uF capacitor can be fun to use, you can make a capacitor bank with a bunch of 'em and makes some big bad ass sparks or use it to make a powerful coilgun on this instructable! Coilgun Handgun
You can do some really interesting light effects with the xenon tube if you put it near the plasma globe...
Also, be very careful when desoldering (and soldering) the transistor, they are quite heat sensitive because they very small. So try desolder it quickly otherwise the transistor will burn out without showing any signs of being dead. Using the dead transistor on the shocker will give you some very low output voltage results like 0.41v or something like that. This makes some people think this instructable is a scam, it is not, it is because they burnt out the transistor without knowing it...
To reduce the risk of a burnt out transistor, clip an alligator/crocodile clip onto the leads of the transistor (or the case if there is no room to put the clip on the leads). The clip will act like an heatsink, this should give you some more time to desolder the transistor.
Step 5: The Difficult Bit...
Okay, this is the difficult part of the project, making the shocker itself...
Because we want to make this shocker small, it is a good idea to use a magnifying glass so you can see what you are doing and avoid make any solder bridges.
I also made a schematic and a design to show to show you how the shocker is made.
Start with the five pin ferrite transformer.
It is important that the transformer has 5 pins, if the transformer has 4 or 6 pins, it will not work for this project.
Step 6: Solder on the Transistor
Solder the transistor's base lead to the pin 4 of the transformer and solder the transistor's collector lead to the pin 1 of the transformer.
The transistor's emitter lead is the ground.
Step 7: Solder on the 200 Ohm Resistor.
Solder one lead of the 220 ohm resistor to the pin 2 of the transformer and solder the resistor's other lead to the pin 3 of the transformer.
Step 8: Solder on the Diode
Solder the cathode lead of the diode to the pin 5 of the transformer.
Step 9: Solder on the Film Capacitor
Solder one lead of the film capacitor to the anode of the diode and solder the other lead of the capacitor to the pin 2 of the transformer.
If the capacitor's leads are too short (like mine) to reach pin 2 of the transformer and the anode of the diode, just solder some some wires on the leads of the capacitor to make it longer.
Also, the film capacitor has no polarity (like the resistors), so you can connect it any way round.
Step 10: Solder on the 100 Ohm Resistor
Solder one lead of the 100 ohm resistor to pin 3 of the transformer.
The other lead will be connect the LED.
Step 11: Solder on the LED
Solder the anode lead of the LED to 100 ohm resistor's lead.
Then solder the cathode lead of the LED to the transistor's emitter lead.
Step 12: Wires...
Solder the ground wire (black) from the battery to the emitter lead of the transistor and the cathode of the LED.
Solder the positive wire (red) from the battery to the pin 2 of the transformer.
And solder the high voltage output wire (blue) to the cathode of the diode and the capacitor.
Step 13: Bend Everything Down...
Then, gently push all the components onto the side of the transformer and use hot glue if needed.
Step 14: Construction on Shocker Completed and Being Tested..
You should get between -400 to -450 volts out of the shocker. My multimeter is reading -438 volts from my shocker.
If yours does not work, calm down, don't get so angry and blow off your head about hours of work for nothing.
- First, check your shocker closely, are there any solder bridges? If so, remove them and replace the transistor.
- If it still does not work, you probably burnt out the transistor from putting the soldering iron on its leads for to long, replace the transistor and don't keep the soldering iron on its leads for to long again. If it still does not work...
- Then the ferrite transformer's internal wiring might be damaged if you went rough with it trying to get it out of the camera board. Build another shocker, because you cannot repair a tiny transformer (unless you have the proper equipment to do so!)
Step 15: Two Ways to Attach the Shocker to the Battery Holder...
You can connect the shocker in a crude and simple way by using lots of wires... However, it would be quite difficult to use with all those dangling wires.
Or you can spend a little more time soldering and gluing the shocker and switch onto the battery holder to make the shocker more portable and easy to use.
Step 16: Have Fun Electrocuting People and Don't Get Caught by the Police!
To use the shocker, the victim must touch the live -400v wire and the +1.5v wire to get a unpleasant shock...
The pain of a 400v shock is the equivalent of getting a really nasty static shock from a car. But the shocker gives a continuous shock...
Also, if you want the shocker to give more painful shocks to the victim, you just simply increase the input voltage!
So, if you give it:
- 1.5v input = 450v output.
- 3v input = 900v output.
- 4.5v input = 1200v output.
- 9v input = 2700v output. (OUCH!)
There is one funny idea that Kiteman thunk up...
What you can do is wire up the shocker to a battery with a switch and make the 400v wire and the 1.5v wire long and then box it up in a small plastic case (except the long wires) to prevent shocking your self...
Then put the shocker in your pocket and have the long wires running down your jacket or long sleeve and put a insulator like a bandage on your finger tip to insulate you (so you don't shock your self). Then put the bare ends of the wires on top of the bandage and tape it down.
And now you are for some fun! Go into the crowded school corridor and touch people with your electrified finger tip, you might not want to touch the girls as they have a bad habit of screaming their head off if they get an unexpecting surprise, but go ahead and touch them if you want...
Or maybe go into the dinner queue and shock people as they slap the mashed potato on his/her tray...
So, what other funny and things can you think up for this small shocker?
van de graaff made it!
We have a be nice policy.
Please be positive and constructive.
Can you tell me possibly why I can't get it to work until I swap the input polarity? I've gone through almost all the npn transistors I can find and this is the only way I can get it to work. I just want to know why? Any help would be appreciated.