This instructible will give an idea of how to choose a suitable subwoofer/s for your ride. This has a lot of information regarding selection of your beloved 'woofer. I have a lot of friends who have taught me a lot of stuff about sound systems, as well as magazines and internet articles, which have developed my knowledge heaps as of late.
I hope this helps you people unsure about what to get. Enjoy.

Step 1: Your car

Firstly you need to have an idea of what car your subwoofer/driver is going into, because the size of the car and amount of space will directly affect the size and/or amount speakers you can install. If youre like me, you wont have a car at the moment, but it wont stop you if you have a little knowledge about cars (I didnt have a car at the time of writing, but I had a very good idea of one that I wanted).
<p>hello. maybe somebody will advice which subwoofer will be the best for my old Nissan gtr? I bought it at the auction <a href="https://1bid1.com/search?category=1" rel="nofollow">https://1bid1.com/search?category=1</a> and nobody explained such details to me((</p>
<p>Finally found something that is pretty easy to understand for a newbie like me unlike what is found at <a href="http://www.autostereoplace.com/" rel="nofollow">http://www.autostereoplace.com/ </a> which I had a pretty hard time understanding.</p><p>Now to a question that is still bothering me... when buying a subwoofer which factor is more important to consider; the peak or RMS power ratings?</p>
<p>Oche useful article! What do you think, and this car will suit <a href="http://details-of-cars.com/bmw/bmw-318i-1-9-compact-e36/" rel="nofollow">http://details-of-cars.com/bmw/bmw-318i-1-9-compact-e36/</a>.</p>
I have to add my 2 cents. (most of this advice was given to me freely by a decent audiophile who wanted to inform a young doe eyed kid looking to get his hands on a more powerul amp) <br><br>Firstly your pic of a Fusion sub (fusion is a really sucky brand... dont get fooled by the cool green look)<br><br>secondly, when picking a subwoofer you have to match it to your musical tastes.<br>if your Only into rap and things with a constant slow mellow bass line then by all means go for a 12 or 15 or even 18inch sub. However If your like me and you like music which is a little more varied an a much more punchy go with a 10inch sub. (ie rock, metal, punk, electro/techno, dance/trance... etc)<br>If one 10inch isn't enough, by all means throw another in or make it 4. Reason being on your amp your going to have a thing called a low pass filter... basically filters out the low bass tones. an if your trying to play stuff above 200hz on a 15inch sub chances are your doing damage to it, not to mention it will baffle an sound like crap. Also if you buy a super large sub an your not playing stuff with a constant bass note... its not even going to make up for 1% of the total music so its a huge waste of money.<br><br>Most importantly above all of the mentioned above.<br>Buy an amp wich is more powerful than your subs. so say your running 2 subs which both have RMS rating of 300. So you would want to buy an amp with an RMS rating of 600 or higher.<br>Reason for this is if your having fun with your friends or whatever and your cranking the volume up an your amp an subs are stuggling there damnd hardest to please the amps not providing enough power so your subs may baffle. if its baffling it wont be too long and it will heat up an melt and your sub's fked.<br><br>Lastly in terms of wiring a subwoofer and amp. pretty easy if your mechanically inclined. It helps if your a contortionist sometimes. I find the hardest part is getting the positive wire through the firewall next. if you can route your pos cable through a gromet or something thats the trickyest bit I find. the rest is simple bolts an stuff taking off the plastic an what not.
pretty helpful, i didn't know a few things hear and there but quite helpful.
QVC (quad voice coil)?<br /> 18&quot; 21&quot; 22&quot; 24&quot;? heck even 32 (not&nbsp;recommended because of extreme suckage)<br /> square? round?<br /> bandpass (4th order? 6th order?) horn? 1/4 wave T-line?&nbsp;<br /> a couple-a missed things but oh well.<br /> <br /> nice 'ible<br />
thanks for the comments, but bandpass boxes and the like are too hard to understand for AV-novices, which are who this 'ible is aimed at.
&nbsp;oh this is for noobs :-P. Your welcome :-)
Don't forget that you really need to match the sub impedance with your amp!
In my experience car audio is pretty much 4ohms across the board, to the extent that most things (drivers or amps) don't even bother specifying the impedance. Low impedance better suits the low voltage / high current power available in the car.
&nbsp;quality gear is 2ohm, 1ohm or sometimes 0.5 ohm (no subs are 0.5 amps can be stable at this though)<br /> what kinda stuff doesnt have a rating?&nbsp;<br /> true about it being better though.
How is that done? Just bought a used base cone to use in a portable soundsystem.. What should I&nbsp;look for? What happens if something's totally wrong?<br />
a lot of this info is, or seems to be, aimed at people who have a basic knowledge of automotive audio systems, and while there are a lot of good things mentioned in these comments, they may not be applicable to everyone. Despite this, there isn't much the internet won't have. That's how i learnt everything! thanx for the comments peeps.
i had a ported box and the handles can be screwed off, i unattached them, and in the end re attached them seal boxes hit so much harder. also i feel that installing a sound system is not difficult, its work but not worth paying someone t do if you can do it yourself. ik there are many HOW TOs on this site about installing subs, please if anyone is going to do this please install it yourself, save money, get knowledge, and the satisfaction of being able to do it yourself. but nothing against your way, decent knowledge here thanks for the time to do the instructable.

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