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Step 11Finish Drywall / Stain Floor
With a large bucket of drywall compound and various compound trowels, I sealed up the gaps on the inside corners.Even though everything is going to be sanded later, it's important to try to get as smooth as possible. Somehow, sanding rough spots didn't quite get it professional looking. After I had spackled everything once, I left it dry for a couple of days. I had some cracking, probably due to settling, so I had to re-apply compound on the inside edges.
To cover the seams, I used standard drywall tape. Don't forget to buy the spray on glue.
Given that this isn't a high traffic area, I bought some minimal drywall edging to cover the outside corners.
Home Depot recommended very fine 220 grit sandpaper to sand the drywall compound. Using a power sander made it like butter. After sanding down the drywall compound, I decided to add texture to the walls. This is not a necessary step, as 90% of the walls are hidden. However, I wanted to learn how to apply texture, so I figure this was a good opportunity. Each can of texture doesn't provide a whole lot of coverage, as I went through about three cans of the stuff to get a texture consistent with the rest of the house.
One bonus regarding texture: it hides drywall seams well. Once I had everything painted, most of my mistakes were well hidden.
After covering, sanding, and texturing everything, I thoroughly wiped down the walls before painting. Given that this will be a high humidity area, I used latex paint; the same stuff you'd use in kitchens or bathrooms. Of course, don't forget to prime first.
After letting the walls dry for a day, I stained the floor using an interior oil-based stain. Home Depot had one in a color call "Cabernet". It really stood out, which is what I wanted as I didn't want it to seem like I was trying to color match with my hardwood floors. One word of caution: it takes a bit more to stain something such a dark color. Double however much you think you're going to need.
I left everything dry for several days, which wasn't a problem as I only had time to work on this during the weekends. I also had "Cabernet" wood stain on my hands and arms for several days, so don't forget to invest in some latex gloves.
To cover the seams, I used standard drywall tape. Don't forget to buy the spray on glue.
Given that this isn't a high traffic area, I bought some minimal drywall edging to cover the outside corners.
Home Depot recommended very fine 220 grit sandpaper to sand the drywall compound. Using a power sander made it like butter. After sanding down the drywall compound, I decided to add texture to the walls. This is not a necessary step, as 90% of the walls are hidden. However, I wanted to learn how to apply texture, so I figure this was a good opportunity. Each can of texture doesn't provide a whole lot of coverage, as I went through about three cans of the stuff to get a texture consistent with the rest of the house.
One bonus regarding texture: it hides drywall seams well. Once I had everything painted, most of my mistakes were well hidden.
After covering, sanding, and texturing everything, I thoroughly wiped down the walls before painting. Given that this will be a high humidity area, I used latex paint; the same stuff you'd use in kitchens or bathrooms. Of course, don't forget to prime first.
After letting the walls dry for a day, I stained the floor using an interior oil-based stain. Home Depot had one in a color call "Cabernet". It really stood out, which is what I wanted as I didn't want it to seem like I was trying to color match with my hardwood floors. One word of caution: it takes a bit more to stain something such a dark color. Double however much you think you're going to need.
I left everything dry for several days, which wasn't a problem as I only had time to work on this during the weekends. I also had "Cabernet" wood stain on my hands and arms for several days, so don't forget to invest in some latex gloves.
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