How to create an electric bass guitar via wood lamination and other various woodcrafting techniques


Step 5: Laminating the Wood, Roughing out and Shapping a a Neck Blank:

Alright the neck that I created consisted of Four (4) pieces of Aspenwood. The Two pieces I used in the center were slightly thicker then the Two pieces I used for both sides of the neck blank. *As an optional step I took some wood stain and stained the sides of the thinner pieces. (This was to create a visible line between the sections of wood.)

1. Lay out your planks of wood. I separated the planks in Two (2) parts. One thick and one thin. It is important to place the 2 planks together with the same paths of the wood grain. In other words the 4 planks should be glued together with the wood grain flowing upward toward the top of the neck.
*NOTE: The reason for this process is to increase the strength of the neck blank after lamination and to allow for cleaner cutting.

2. Now that you have the boards set up, You will want to position your clamps so that you can easily place the neck blank in them after applying the glue. Place the clamps equaly side by side in a row.

3. Now for the glue. Make sure that your pieces of wood are as clean as they can be. You want the glue to adhere to the wood as perfectly as it can with no obstructions. take a damp cloth and wipe down the wood to get it a little moist. *DO NOT GET IT TOO WET! just enough to open up the poors in the wood a little. Next Take some glue and carefully apply it along the length of the board so that it is covered with a thin layer of glue. Do this same process to the other board that you will be gluing to. Now repeat this process so that all 4 pieces are glued together.

4. When you have all the boards glued together place them into the clamps and tighten the clamps up *Remember that you want to have as much pressure as the clamps can provide. Have a damp cloth ready so that you can wipe off any glue that seeps out of the seams. (It is much easier to get the glue off when it is wet)

5. When everything is set up and secured in the clamps. Its time to walk away for a while. This is where patience is important. Keep the clamps on for a period of at least 2 days so that all of the moisture from the glue can properly dry out.


.Now that you have your body blank lamented, its time to rough it out and shape it. For this sequence of steps you will need your bandsaw, orbital sander, belt sander, files and rasps and also a carving chisel if you have one.

1. Begin by marking out where the headstock will be on the neck blank.
2. Mark out the location of the end of the fretboard. This should be exactly 24 inches from the end of the headstock where your nut will be.
3. Mark off where you will be bolting the neck onto the body. I recommend at least 4 inches of space that will make up this area.
4.For the contour of the neck mark off 2 inches along the underside of the neck lengthwise as the distance to where the fretboard will glue onto.
5. With these measurements made cut off excess wood from the neck blank using your bandsaw.
6.Use in combination the belt sander, orbital sander and rasps to begin to shape the neck down to its refined dimensions.
7. If you have a woodcarving chisel, use it!! It is very time consuming but for some reason very rewarding.When using a woodcarving chisel remember to make your gouges with the grain not against it.
can i use palochina wood for the neck?
I am unfamiliar with Palochina wood. I suppose check out the physical properties of the wood including its tonal qualities. If it seems strong and solid enough, and without knots then I suppose it would be a good wood to use. You will want to make sure that the soundwill remain at a constant from the top to the bridge of the scale. If the sound is inhibited in any way from sending its wave through length of the neck and into the body than you will produce a possibly undesirable resonance.