First thing to do is make sure that you do indeed have a break. There are a few ways to do this. On my unit, two wires run from the transmitter to the perimeter fence. Disconnect these wires from the transmitter and put the ends of a paper clip or small piece of wire into the jacks where the wires had been connected. If the alarm is silenced, the transmitter is working properly and you have a break. Another way to verify that there is a break is to use an ohmmeter and check the resistance on the disconnected wires. If there is no resistance the wires are continuous and there is not a break, meaning you may have a problem with the transmitter itself.
After installing the RF-choke method I get a tremendously strong pulse on my AM radio. The pulse is present even over the twisted wires or when standing next to the transmitter - that can't be right? Any idea what is wrong with that?
When I walk along the wire the signal remains strong and only when I stray far from the wire path it starts to fade. I tried to turn down the field width/size etc but to no effect.
Any suggestions? I'm running out of ideas.
If this is the case, your statement "to verify that there is a break ... use an ohmmeter and check the resistance on the disconnected wires. If there is no resistance the wires are continuous" is mistaken.
If a wire continuous, it does have resistance, which the meter will show. If there is a break in the wire, the ohmmeter will show no resistance.
Grant
If you trace R29 it connects directly to the middle Boundary line terminal. The label on the back of the transmitter reads Output-AC 12V 830mA. If Power=Volts times Current, then 12V X .83A equals 9.96Watts. Is it safe to assume the resistor is 10W based on the output listed or is there another way to determine the wattage of a resistor?
First, my setup. I have a Petsafe Stubborn Dog unit which has worked outstanding for about 2,500 feet of wire covering maybe 4 or 5 acres. It has worked great but then one day there were problems, which I could not pinpoint. The collar had no signal, although the box was not indicating a line break.
I purchased the RF Choke from Radio Shack, which they had in the store for $2, and I also purchased a Radio Shack AM-FM radio for $15.
It took a while to recognize the "chirping" sound, which was between 0-600 AM frequency, the best signal coming in around 550 AM.
This was also next to a minor league baseball game being played by the Gwinnett Braves and the Toledo Mudhens, which Gwinnett rallied for a run in the 7th inning to break a 2-2 tie and win 3-2, despite a 3-5 hitting performance by Toledo centerfield Quinten Berry.
But I digress.
So with the AM radio "chirping," it really sounded like a cricket chirping really fast. I followed the underground wire for some time, but again this is a long run, and eventually the signal became so weak the radio would not pick up the signal. I finally determined that the radio picked up the signal for half the wire and there was no signal for the other half.
I now questioned many things. Was my box bad? Was the collar bad? Was there not a true break in the line but a nick or fault?
I then called PetSafe customer service. The young lady walked me through a 10-foot wire "loop" test with my box and it proved the box and collar were both in excellent condition.
I then regrouped, and began replacing every splice that I knew of, and there are probably 10 or more in all due to previous breaks and original splices.
I then turned the box back on to test, after I had replaced maybe 6 splices, and boom, it was working better than new. I had a signal that would cook bacon.
So the moral to my story is something I hope you will remember - replace your splices first, before you spend any money on an RF choke, a radio, more wire, a service call, or a Taylormade Burner Superfast 2.0 driver. The driver has nothing to do with this, but you can't play golf while you are trying to fix a dog fence. That's my point.
I also will continue to use the RF choke and radio in the future, as it does detect a break and weak signal strength, so I do recommend it. Just remember to check your splice connectors first.
If the proper splices are used correctly then you won't have splice problems in the future.
I am trying to shorten the range (now about 10-12 ft) from my wire . I'm using the ICT700
Yes you will have to add about $25 shipping ( 4 days for mine to arrive), but that's still about 50% of the price DFNA is asking!
I have purchased thru this resource (Alibaba) and received xcellent service and quick delivery.
http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/102979920.html
Total time, including the Radio Shack run? Less than an hour!
Thanks again for the easy to follow instructions.
Thanks
http://dogfencediy.com/store/accessories/petsafe-boundary-wire-locator.html
The correct website is www.invincibleservices.com not invisible
The locator in the video is exactly the same. You may only be seeing the antenna in the video but believe me they are exactly the same. If you watch at the end of the video you will see a demonstration of how to put it in the case and it is the exact same locator. Hope this clears it up.
Any other suggestions? Thanks
This kind of wire and system will carry a low voltage ( 3-5 volts ) with a 10 khz frequency.
If this kind of wire breaks with this system it will not increase the load but it will sound an alarm at the transmitter telling you that the loop is broken and that the system is not functioning.
I would use a propane powered soldering iron and solder the broken ends together and then put 2 layers of heat-shrink over it.
Or you could do it like electricians used to do in california 20 years ago.
Make your splice then use plumbers dough around the splice and then use electrical tape and tape wire and plumbers dough. This will give you a water tide splice for many years to come with just a few pennies worth of material invested.