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Step 8: Mending the break

The final step is connecting the broken ends in a way that is weatherproof and secure. I bought these connectors from the local hardware store, time will tell if they are the best ones or not but you want something that is waterproof and suitable for the temperature range in your climate. This type of connector is filled with silicone to seal the twisted wires. Once you're sure the fence is operating correctly, bury the mended wires and you're done! Good luck!
<p>Invisible fences fail too much. Your better off getting a REAL physical fence. Pet Playgrounds has specifically engineered a non-electric dog fence that prevents your dog from climbing over, chewing through, and or digging under. Check out petplaygrounds.com </p>
<p>I have used my invisible fence for going on 11 years with no problem..except today, fixing the chicken coop I accidently dug thru the wire causing the main box to continually beep, called the office number for the seller in my area. thankfully they are out for the thanksgiving week, I left my number and a message, then I decided to look on either Utube or instructibles websites for info on how to diagnose and repair the problem, BE very careful to note on the fine and coarse settings to be careful not to turn it back to the original setting set by the technician who set it up for you, I messed with my settings and shocked the &quot;CRAP&quot; out of myself SEVERAL times before figuring it out, &quot;WELL&quot; I didn't want to shock my dog so I had to try it for myself</p>
Aren't there rules against advertising on this site? <br>There are many neighborhoods who don't allow physical fences as part of their covenant so no, you aren't better off getting a &quot;real&quot; fence. This is a good instructable that could save a lot of time and headache for someone.
It worked for me! I wish I had a stronger radio though
<p>Thanks for this Instructable. We found the break and our Beagle is happy to be off the chain.</p>
<p>Your local AM radio stations may or may not be close on the dial to the frequency the dog fence broadcasts. A cheap-o AM radio might work better than an expensive model (less sensitivity and less adjacent-channel rejection on the cheap model). YMMV so try different radios.</p><p>FWIW, the purpose of a choke is to pass DC current (measured in volts, so the fence system thinks a wire is shorted across the terminals) while blocking any AC (the noisy part that shows up in the radio is NOT shorted out, so it continues down the buried wire). You can make one -- it's just a coil of wire. Google it. Perhaps this system uses a constant DC voltage to test for continuity through the buried wire, and an AC signal (the &quot;noise&quot; you hear) to trigger the dog collar. A break would cause the beep that tells you the wire is broken (DC missing in the wire loop) and so you fool the system with the choke so you can test with the AM radio. Simply shorting the wire could diminish the signal to the radio, but I'd obviously try it and see if it's loud enough to do the job.</p>
<p>FORGET THE CHOKE. You don't need it. Just use a piece of wire in place of the choke and follow the instructions as provided. I plugged both a short piece of wire and the broken perimeter wires into the control box and it sent the 600 mHz frequency out the lines that was detectable by an AM radio tuned to 600. I have just over 1/2 acre inside my perimeter. Maybe the choke is useful for longer runs, but I did not need it.</p>
<p>With the RF choke the collar still works. I taped the prongs and used it.</p>
<p>With the RF choke the collar still works. I taped the prongs and used it.</p>
<p>Wow!!! Can't thank you enough for the detailed instructions!!! They were perfect - my luck was not so much. The hard part was finding an AM/FM radio - got stuck walking around with a hulking desktop radio from Target. With close to 2000' of wire, I started on the end that seemed the most vulnerable - I found the break about 150' from the opposite end, where the kids buried a dead bird. On the bright side, the large radio picked up a strong signal and I found the break on the very first dig - on the flip side, I had to listen to Rush Limbaugh for half an hour. :D</p>
<p>Thank you so much for posting this it saved me a fortune. I was able to get the RF choke from RadioShack for $1.50 and had extra repair tubes. It took me about an hour total that included running to RadioShack.</p>
<p>Why do you have to use an AM radio and fiddle around trying to find a suitable frequency? Why not just use the dog collar itself, which emits an audible noise when you get near the fence?</p>
<p>If there is a break in the fence, the collar doesn't work. We're not trying to find the fence. We're trying to find the break in the fence.</p>
Thanks for the info. I've had to do this in the past. Another tip: i bought old hoses at a yard sale or cheap at a dollar store. Using a box cutter, slice the hose along the length of the tube. Insert wire in hose and wrap loosely with electrical tape, then bury hose. It's time consuming, but I have never had a break in my dog fence since I did this!
<p>Thank you, thank you, thank you! Had reserved the entire day to &quot;Find The Break&quot;...</p><p> 5 minutes into &quot;the entire day&quot;, I found the problem in Step 1! After doing the small loop, the transmitter reset itself. Problem solved}</p>
<p>I have a feeling you are gonna save me some money...<br>Thanks!!!</p>
<p>Just after the heavy rains that came through the Carolina's the alarm would not quit, no matter whatever tricks I tried. Kept walking the line with break finder over and over with no luck. Did the small loop as illustrated to check transmitter. It reset itself. Plugged my perimeter wires back in and our dogs let us know it was working right quick. Unfortunately everything was high when everything came back to life, and the dogs were not happy. Having to re-adjust the settings and work with the dogs in doing a little bit of re- learning. This tip worked great !!!!!</p>
<p>I'll check that, first! Thanks!</p>
To JoeysMom, I believe that PetSafe uses a different system and this procedure will not work with that system. <br/>A friend of mine and myself are both very knowledgable in electronics and radio systems. We spent quite an amount of time trying to use the above procedure to find the break in my PetSafe system. It wasn't that we just couldn't find the break, the procedure just didn't work. <br/>I started doing a lot more research on the Internet and believe that the PetSafe device uses a more complex system that does a better job, but requires specialized equipment to troubleshoot it. <br/>I am checking into that now. I'll let you know what I find out.
I have a PetSafe and this worked for me. First make sure you do step 1 to confirm the transmitter is working right. Then when you wire up the choke make sure it's in parallel and has a solid connection. Crank the transmitter to its highest setting. You want an AM radio with an external antenna and you have to be right on top of the wire (inches to the dirt) to get the interference. You can't count on the frequency being 600Hz, you have to play around with the frequency to find the best one.
Hi! I&acute;m developing a similar circuit for a home made robot-machine and it will help me a lot if I can see how your system is built, Can you upload a picture of the complete electronic circuit? <br>Thanks!!
<p>Frustrated!!! I have a SportDog RF104A invisible dog fence. It recently began to alarm. I tried the short loop test and the results indicate a break in the line. I have approximately 600 LF of wire with about 60 ft exposed. I tried the AM radio test ~ actually using 3 different radios. I have never been able to get a static signal as it relates to my perimeter wire ~ it all sounds the same. I applied the same instructions shown in your pics, to no avail... Any suggestions... My dogs are used to it not working and do not leave the yard, but, we will be dog-sitting next week and she's a runner....Yikes!!! Help!!!</p>
<p>I had a lightning strike that fried my PetSafe transmitter so I bought a new one. I followed all the steps and even tried turning the new transmitter up all they way as suggested in the comments. I thought maybe I had a break in the fence so followed all of these steps. Everything worked great, plugged in the RF Choke, hear the frequency on AM radio but cannot find the break. I've walked the fence three times and have strong signal the entire way around. Even re-did my splice just in case. Will a lightning strike cause some other problem. I'm considering just sucking it up and putting in a new fence line. Any suggestions welcome....Thanks</p>
<p>I had a lightning strike in my yard as well. Sadly, I found so many spots where the line had been melted through/broken as a result of the strike. After half a day of mending the breaks, I gave up and replaced the wire. I was having repairs 6- 20 ft apart. I just thought that was too many repairs for my 1.5 acre yard. Good Luck!</p>
<p>Even thought Radio Shack local store said they had 3 RF Chokes...I drove there to find they had NONE! Tried making my own - didn't work. Finally just reset the switch on the side of the transmitter from High to Low and reset the dial to 5.... back in business. Possibly sent it into alarm state from the lightning storm we had the other day! Anyway... Only wasted 2 hours before doing that....(I also redid all my splices even though when I pullled each one apart and put them back together nothing changed on the open circuit alarm...)</p>
I followed all the instructions but I cannot get the transmitter to stop beeping. <br>How long should it take to travel the loop?
Its immediate. Make sure you connected the electric fence wire tightly to each rf choke lead
Incredible! Thank you so much for this post! ! Worked like a charm. Under $2 for rf choke. Signal got weak in one section. Dug one foot each side of weak spot. It was a previous splice I had fixed 5 years ago when kids broke line digging for worms. Splice had broke. Redid and up and running again!! Took 15 mins. Saved hundreds.
Thanks this worked perfectly. There is a radio station at 600 where i live so a connected a 20 ft loop from some wire that i had. Thus way i could identify the exact sound. the sound get faint near the break so i put flags in the ground on both sides of the break at the last point where i had a strong signal. the break was in line between the flags. It was not very deep
<p>I bought the rf choke from radio shack. At first it seemed ok but a few minutes it my transmitter shut down. When I unhook the choke it works again. Any advice.</p>
<p>yes, there are instructions on your unit on how to reset it. The same as resetting your cable on your T.V.. Also if you have a large yard, you have to set it at six or about so the electric is strong enough to pulse through the entire length. Turn it up until it stops ringing, then very slowly, turn it down until it starts ringing, then turn it a centimeter.</p>
I tried turning up to 6 and then even higher and it still beeps.
<p>What a great instruction! I followed this step by step and fixed the problem. After a period of time that the system was inactive, the battery in the collar needed to be replaced. Just make sure your battery is good so you can check the system accurately. Thank you very much for posting this. </p>
Do you have to unplug the transmitter from the wall outlet to connect the RF Choke? If so, do you plug it back in before listening for the signal break?
<p>of course it has to be plugged in. Don't worry it will NOT Shock you!</p>
<p>I unplugged mine before hooking up the RF choke and fence wires. Probably just turning it off would be fine. Then you MUST turn it back on (and plug it in if unplugged) to listening for the signal from the fence wire.</p>
<p>great idea, can't wait to try it. QUESTION???? can't you just use the collar instead of an AM radio. Not sure I even own a handled radio anymore. Gonna try it and see. BTW - you are saving me loads of time and $$$$ THANKS!!!!!!!! </p>
<p>nope have to have radio. Hardest part is finding the radio, the rest is a piece of cake.</p>
<p>The collar doesn't work when you attach the RF choke.</p>
<p>I can't seem to find the correct channel. My radio goes to 170. I scroll through the 54 through 65 area which I assume matches to 600? I just get static. Can anyone suggest something?</p>
<p>Static is what you want. The static fades when you get close to the break. My break was two ahead of where the fading started. Use headphones if nessicary.</p>
Does this work if the break is where the wires are twisted together?
<p>Of course, just go back six inches on each side and put in a new piece of wire.</p>
Thank you so much. The paperclip method solved the immediate crisis and I can now focus on fixing the whole system. Your guide has empowered me to get this done.
<p>Totally worked. Hard part is hearing the tone generated. First try I had to quit because the wind was too noisy. Dug up the wire up a foot or so from where I thought the signal dropped - and I was within 2 feet of the break. Turns out I actually had 2 breaks - one another couple feet down the line. Tied both up and now the dogs are getting their shock treatment.</p>
<p>must use head phone for accurate reading/</p>

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