Introduction: How to Fix a YLOD PS3... With an Oven.

To start, I'll first just admit that I have always been an XBOX 360 fan boy. I have done my fair share of ridiculing the PS3, and even deterred people from buying one. But that was all before Gran Turismo 5, which literally had me convinced at first sight that a PS3 was something that I had to own. So, I bought one. A broken one. A YLOD one. Now, some might think that was a stupid choice, with good reason.

However, because I was an XBOX fan, I was very familiar with the Red Rings of Death, or RROD for short. And because I am an aspiring engineer and experienced tinkerer, I had gotten very familiar (and very good) at fixing consoles with this problem, thanks to the many helpful tutorials posted on sites like Once I discovered that the YLOD is basically the same problem as the RROD, I made the choice to buy a broken PS3 and fix it. This tutorial explains how I did it, using tips, tricks, and methods I have used to fix XBOX's in the past.

BE AWARE THAT PERFORMING THE METHOD WILL VOID VOID VOID YOUR WARRANTY (which is probably expired anyway if you are fixing a launch console). I will also say right now that I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE for any damage you may do to your PS3 or your oven (I'm talking about a conventional kitchen oven BTW, not a microwave!) by following this guide, and I do not guarantee a fixed console. But I will say that if you follow this guide, your chances are good.

Step 1: Background & Theory

So what causes the YLOD? There are several prevailing theories, including a faulty power supply, corrupted hard drive, or virus circulating through the PSN (which is probably 100% false). But, while I'm not saying that these AREN'T the cause of your particular case of YLOD, I will say that most likely, the cause of your issue are the solder balls underneath the RSX (basically the GPU, or Graphics Processing Unit) and  Cell BE (basically the CPU, or Central Processing Unit) chips. These can be seen in the picture on this page. This style of fastening the chips to the board is know as BGA, or Ball Grid Array. What you really need to know though, is that under the chips their are hundreds of tiny balls of solder, which pass information from the chip to the motherboard. These balls are constantly submitted to intense heat due to the chip above them, which is being cooled by a huge heat-sink and fan.

This would all be hunky dory, except for the lead free solder which composes the chips. The European Union, a political and economic union of 27 countries, banned the importation of electronics containing lead in 2006, which has caused most electronics manufactures to switch to lead free solder in their products, even those sold in the U.S. (thanks to Entropy512 for the information). Unfortunately lead free solder has two (theorized) weaknesses. The first is that with repeated, high temperature (higher than what Sony engineers intended) exposure caused by 8 hour Call of Duty marathons or similar,  followed by rapid cooling of the console once turned off, the balls begin to lose their elasticity, and eventually crack. This causes an open circuit, and when you try and power the PS3 up again, you are greeted with the YLOD. The other theory is that over time, due to the aforementioned high temperatures, the balls begin to grow "tin whiskers" which cause a short with another ball nearby, once again causing the YLOD. Which actual cause it really is doesn't matter, because the method I outline here will fix both.

This magical method is known as an oven re-flow. In a nutshell, the oven is used to heat the PS3 motherboard up to a temperature high enough to melt the solder balls underneath the RSX and Cell BE chips. When the board cools, the balls are reformed  with the help of flux, which gives them back their elasticity. Don't worry, the oven will not get hot enough to "liquefy" the solder and cause it to pool into one giant glob, but only enough to cause it to "goo up" and reform each individual ball.
After the re flow, high quality thermal paste can be used to increase the PS3's cooling efficiency and lessen the chance of the YLOD reoccurring. More info on and clarification will be given on this later.

Now, the last thing is to "critique" other methods of fixing the YLOD. The main one that you may have heard of is the heat-gun method, which works, but has several downfalls, the first of which in my mind is the price. A heat-gun costs like 50 bucks at your local hardware store. The oven method is almost free - all you need are some basic supplies, which are less than 20 bucks. The other big downfall is that the heat-gun warps the motherboard because it heats one area while other areas stay cool. This means that when you put the warped board back in the case and bolt it all in, it puts stress on the new solder balls, which is never good and will help to cause failure in the future. The oven method avoids this by EVENLY heating all areas of the board, keeping flex very minimal. The other "trick" I have heard of is using a blow dryer to heat up the innards of the console. While this also works, it does not re-flow, but instead will un-flex the motherboard over its whole area (similar to the low temp. oven bake detailed later in the instructable), which causes a temporary re-alignment of the cracked solder balls. However, after a few cycles of hard gaming, the board will warp back to the way it was, and the console will fail once again. The best way to fix  BGA related failure is to use a professional re-flow station and griddle, but these cost big bucks, and would be pointless to buy for a one time fix.

Alright, lets do it.

Step 2: Supplies & Disassembly

Alright, so the following is what you will need:
- Four M4 X 30mm hex  bolts
- Eight matching M4 hex nuts
- Two M5 X 30mm hex bolts
- Four matching M5 hex nuts
- One pack of Blu Tack, Sticky Tack, or similar (can be found at Walmart)
- Rubbing Alcohol
- No clean flux (get on ebay and search "flux RROD YLOD" and you should find the stuff. It     comes in a small bottle with a pipet)
- Goo Gone Extreme, Goof Off, or similar
- Q-tips and Paper Towels (or Napkins)
- Aluminum Foil
- Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound (can be found at Radio Shack) OR if you're on a budget, you can get the cheaper ceramic based compound. It should still be an improvement over the stock paste, but AS5 will be better if you can spring for it.
-Oven thermometer (these are like $3 at Walmart, please please please use one if you want to eliminate all chances of melting components)
-A box fan or equivalent

As for disassembly of the PS3, I wont provide instructions because their are many good tutorials out there. My personal favorite is this chain of videos, which is actually a heat-gun tutorial. The guy does a great job of showing not only how to disassemble, but reassemble, the PS3.

Step 3: Board Preperation

So once you've stripped the PS3 all the way down to the board, there's a few things you need to do. Firstly, the old and probably dried up thermal paste on the RSX and Cell BE chips needs to be cleaned off. This paste transfers the heat from the chips to the heat sink, and if your PlayStation's paste looked like mine did, it's obvious it wasn't doing its job. To clean it, drip a little bit of Goo Gone onto the chip you're cleaning and let it sit for about 30 seconds. This will dissolve the old compound. Then wipe it away with a paper towel, and repeat. To get the edges of the chip, soak a Q-tip with Goo Gone and wipe them off. When it's clean, wipe it down with rubbing alcohol. There are pictures on this page of me doing this, if you want to see the technique. Also clean the metal pads on the heat-sink using this same method.

After the chips are clean, all the thermal pads on the board should be removed. Be careful - some may be stuck to the metal plate that covers the top of the motherboard - make sure they either stay on it, or you pull them off and put them with their siblings that you took off the motherboard. Also, if you're fixing a backwards compatible 60GB model, be VERY CAREFUL when removing the thermal pad from the PS2 chip. It seems to be very gooey and easy to tear - I included a picture of mine after I got it off - you can see what I mean. Also remove the silver strip on top of a small BGA chip (it can be seen in my pictures) and the spongy metal looking thing on top of one of the ports on the back of the board.

Step 4: Low Temperature Oven Bake

Alright, so the purpose of this step is twofold. First, it helps to gently unflex the mainboard, and second, it serves to evaporate moisture that has trapped itself in the board over time, which is critical to get rid of in order to perform a good re-flow. However, the motherboard can't just be tossed on a pizza tray and then into the oven. This is where the bolts come in. They will be used to create a simple stand for the board, so no parts of it will be directly touching the tray.

First, put a nut about 10mm down on a bolt you are going to use. The smaller M4 bolts go around the outside of the board, and the M5's go in two of the big holes in the middle (see pictures). Then, place it in a hole on the board. Now, take another nut and screw it down until the top of the nut is flush with the top to the bolt. Then tighten the nut underneath the board until it "pinches" the board tightly. No need to crank down on these - finger tightening  is good enough. Do this for all the bolts. Make sure when you do the M5's that the nut on top of the board does not come into contact with any chips or other small components.

Then, set the board on an even surface like a counter-top. You want to look straight on at the board and make sure it is level. If it sags or curves in the middle, adjust the middle bolts so that it does not.

Once this is done, it's time to cook. Preheat the oven to 150 degrees Fahrenheit. If your oven will not go this low, you can go as high as 170 without insulation, but any higher and you risk damaging the board. If you simply cannot get your oven to do this you can skip this step, but it is very beneficial to do it if possible.

Alright, when the oven is ready put the board on a pizza tray and pop it in the oven for 8 HOURS. That's right, 8 hours. This ensures a completely dry and straight board, and is totally worth the wait. If possible start the bake early - then you will have time to re-flow later in the same day.

Once the wait is over, take the mainboard out of the oven and let it cool completely. Now it's time to insulate.

Step 5: Insulation and Fluxing

Really the only things on the board that need to be insulated are the capacitors, which are very susceptible to heat. The ports, which I insulated during my reflow, are much hardier than I expected (I left one uncovered) and do not need to be insulated. So, if you see extra insulation in my pictures, it's just ports, which can be ignored.

I have also read about people cooking the board without ANY insulation. Honestly this worries me, and I don't think I could bring myself to do this. However, I did decide to go with "light" insulation compared to typical XBOX 360 insulation because of these reports, and it seemed to work well.

This is where the sticky tack comes in. This stuff has excellent heat resistivity, and is mold-able, which is handy. Just take it and surround all capacitors on the board. Try to keep it off of big chips and mold it as compactly as you can while still leaving about .25 of an inch of thickness around the capacitors. Once this is done cover all the globs in foil, SHINY SIDE OUT. This will help to reflect the heat.

EDIT 8/24/11 - thanks to graphicsgod, I have become aware of some possible melting hazards on the board. I highly recommend insulating the component cable jack, along with the small cylindrical piezospeaker (can be seen in the first picture) in the same way you insulated the caps.

This completes the insulation, and leaves one final step before re-flowing - fluxing. The flux re-conditions the solder balls and gives them back their flexibility and strength. You need a very specific type - No Clean. This stuff does not need to be cleaned off the board like other types of flux (which eat into the solder pads to help the solder "stick") and is very liquidy. The type of choice is Kester 951, which can be had on eBay in small bottles. Just search "flux YLOD" and you'll find it. To use it, you basically take the pipet and squirt flux under the chips you wish to reflow. Now, in reality every part of the board will be reflowed, but we only need to flux the parts that have become fatigued and failed, causing the YLOD. I have outlined these specific chips in red in two of the pictures.

Here's a video which shows how to flux a 360 - the method will work for the PS3. And you don't need to be shy with this stuff - make sure you have gotten it under the chips.

Once done, we're finally ready to re-flow.

Step 6: Reflowing

EDIT 8/24/11 - I have revised this step to use a much more efficient reflow technique. Trust me, it's better and safer.

After reading a few articles on the reflow ovens used in industry, I realized that the method I was using was clunky and far from ideal.

In a perfect situation, a reflow should minimize time spent above the solder melting point, while still reaching a temperature somewhat above this melting point. The shorter the time, the less brittle the solder. Reaching the correct temperature ensures the solder "sticks" correctly. Also, the board must be the same temperature across its area so it does not warp.

When you plot these criteria against time, you get what's called a reflow profile. I have created one for the average home oven, which I've uploaded. Please ignore the "Soak" step - it is unnecessary due to the slowness of the oven.

So here's a quick run through of the profile: the board goes in the oven cold, and is kept in while the oven approaches the reflow temperature. This ensures the board is the same temperature everywhere (because the oven heats up slowly, giving the heat enough time to penetrate and soak all areas). As the reflow temperature is reached and surpassed, the solder melts. Once the correct temperature above the solder melting point is reached, the door is opened and a fan is used to gently draw hot air away from the face of the oven, which shortens the time the solder is liquid by speeding its cool-down.

An oven thermometer is used to 1) ensure accurate temperature readings, allowing for shorter times spent with the solder liquid, and most importantly 2) to make sure the oven does not reach a temperature that is much hotter than what it reports (some can go over by 20F or more).


Well, the time has finally come. Place the PS3 board on a counter top like you did when you prepped it for the low temp bake and check to make sure it is level. Then, put it on a pizza tray.

Put the motherboard in on the middle rack, towards the front of your oven. Place the thermometer you hopefully purchased in the oven, where you can see it through the door. Turn the temperature up to 500 degrees Fahrenheit. Relax. The oven will not reach this temperature. Take a seat on the floor and watch the thermometer. Once the needle rolls to approximately 460F, turn off the oven an throw open the door. The thermometer will rise a few degrees before it falls. Do not panic.

Take a box fan, osculating fan (set to not osculate), or similar, put it on its lowest setting, and place it OUTSIDE THE EDGE OF THE OVEN DOOR TO THE LEFT OR RIGHT, NOT DIRECTLY IN FRONT, WITH THE FAN BLOWING AIR AWAY FROM, I REPEAT, AWAY FROM THE OVEN, AND NOT NOT NOT INTO IT. The idea here is the pull hot air from the face of the oven, without creating any significant disturbance to the motherboard within. This will speed up the cool down, as explained in the theory. Once the board is close to room temp, feel free to remove it.

Congratulations! You've re-flowed your PS3. 

Step 7: Board Preparation and Re-assembly

You're on the home stretch now. To get the board ready for reassembly, you first need to remove the sticky tack and foil. It shouldn't leave too much residue on the board - if it does, just be patient and get as much off as you can. Nothing bad will happen if you leave a little on the board - it is an excellent electrical insulator.

Next, put some new thermal compound on the RSX and Cell BE chips. I recommend Arctic Silver 5 - it is much better than the stock compound. Just be careful - it has microscopic pieces of silver in it, and will CONDUCT ELECTRICITY. So keep it on the chips. To apply it, I usually put a glob on a chip, and then take a credit card or something similar and spread it out. You don't want very much - a paper thin layer will suffice. The pics I provided show about what your's should look like.

Next, put all the thermal pads you took off back on the board. Don't forget any! If you do, you could nuke an important component and kill your PS3.

The last thing I want to mention is a trick I found in a YouTube video. The little bendy clamps that hold the heat-sink to the chips (there should be two) can be bent slightly more to increase the pressure they "pull" with, which should increase the thermal efficiency of the PS3. They are really hard to bend, but a little extra bend goes a long way, so don't overdo it. I included a picture showing me bending the clamps.

Use the video's I linked to earlier to reassemble. And now, the moment of truth.

Step 8: The Green Light

Hopefully you will see what I saw when I turned on my PS3. If not, perhaps your YLOD is caused by a power supply issue or something, which I will not go into here. If you still believe it's the solder balls, you could try sending it to a professional reflower or get if re-balled, but this will unfortunately cost you. But if you saw a beautiful green light like I did - congrats, you have fixed your PS3. Now try to keep it in an open area where it can breath cool air, and have fun :)


Creative+Hacker made it!(author)2017-02-01

Hi !

I have a question! What ATX Size is the PS3 Motherboard ?

because repairs don't last i want to replace the guts with normal PC guts to make a Emulation machine

KhangL made it!(author)2016-04-17

Can I use chewing gum instead of sticky tack?

MattH56 made it!(author)2016-03-10

Nevermind, it was what i thought, I pulled the whole thing off the board. Both pieces. Now to figure out which way to plug it back in...

MattH56 made it!(author)2016-03-10

Nevermind, it was what i thought, I pulled the whole thing off the board. Both pieces. Now to figure out which way to plug it back in...

MattH56 made it!(author)2016-03-10

Can anyone help? I followed the procedure as best I could. Of course got to the end with some extra screws. :-) only problem so far... It looks like the white plastic connector that sits on the motherboard to receive the green battery was pulled off and lost. (Unless it's stuck really well to the battery piece now and i can't tell?) How can i replace that motherboard piece? I don't want to live without the battery backup...


AdarshK24 made it!(author)2016-03-05

Can you still cook food in the oven you used in the process for cooking?

vintage51 made it!(author)2015-07-13

I just had my PS3 slim 120GB get the YLOD. I follows the instructions on this page. Insulated to the max. Fluxed the CPU and GPU. Put the PS3 back together. Hit the power button GREEN LIGHT but NO VIDEO. Does anyone have any ideas. Thanks

rudieludie made it!(author)2016-01-27

Might be very late, but it could be your video settings. Did you have it hooked to a television with a different cable or at a different resolution (720p/1080p)?

If so, from the standby position (light red) hold down the power button. You'll hear that initial beep as the console starts up, but keep holding. After the second beep let go. The console will restart and the video settings shall be completely reset (it may ask you to auto detect or set up the video).

ankush93 made it!(author)2015-12-21

I too got YLOD on PS3. I solved that with help of one guide. All I would like to say is that it is super easy to solve YLOD, don't know why people spend in hundreds to get it resolved.

mkalpokas made it!(author)2015-12-19

It actually does work!
Ill tell you my story how I did it, I paid 2euro for blue tack and thats it.
I'm always very sceptical around these kinds of stuff, but I thought there is nothing to lose since my ps3 is 7 years old and since ps4 is out it costs nothing. Basically what I did was took of the top and I thought something might be with power supply or hard drive, I dusted out the power supply but there was no luck, I connected hard drive to my desktop, it was completely fine, so I thought I'll disassemble completely. I kept all the screws in place and took my time. The fan with heat sinks took a while to take off since it was glued on. By the way I had a slim version of ps3 so it looked completely different unlike the pictures. I really wanted to fix it now and with the stuff that I had, so I went to local IT store and asked if they had any spare thermal paste and the guy gave me a bit of it on a tissue for free, he said that should be enough, unfortunately he didn't had any re-flow flux, he knew what I'll do so he gave me an advice, to use 180degrees of Celsius and I don't even need a flux for that. I came back home and took of the heat sink, I used my mom's nail polish remover and some ear buds to clean off the surfaces, then I blue tacked on capacitors, in my case they were small ones and shiny, one pack was enough, I blue tacked some outputs and took of the button battery just in case, I laid few sheets of plain paper on the grill in my oven and put the motherbord on it, I turned on and prayed for best. it took about 8min to heat up till 180C and then I counted 3 min and turned off and left it as it is for 5-10 minutes and then opened up the oven and left for 20 more. I re-assembled everything and used tooth paste because I had very little of thermal paste, I turned on and it worked but the fan started to spin veru fast so I turned it off and cleaned off the paste and put the proper one, I put everything back and wo hoo! Thank you! :)

TilmannS made it!(author)2015-09-11

Used a simplified version of this HowTo. I just cleaned the board, put it flat on a grill rost, cpu&gpu side up and heated it to 240°C, then waited 3 minutes, cooled it down by opening the oven. The only trace of the heating process was a slightly molten part of the old TV cable socket (not HDMI) and some darkened stains. I sawed to molten part off, reassembled the PS3, turned it on .... aaaaannnddddd ... works like a charm!!! Thanks a lot for this HowTo, it was great fun and had a happy ending :-)

StefanosA1 made it!(author)2015-12-14

Is it still working? I did the same and lasted only 2 days.

cannibs420 made it!(author)2011-12-03

couldnt find long enough m4 hex nuts anywhere. decided to use thermal ahesive to attach 20mm M8 bolts to 16mm M4 and M5 bolts. i assume the adhesive will be fine.

the only thing this guide is missing, is removing the IHS heatspreader off the RSX chip, and cleaning all the adhesive off the four ram chips, then using either thermal adhesive (arctic alumina) or else thermal paste(i like arctic mx-4) to attach the heatspreader after.

reflowing a board with the IHS still attached will completely own all the thermal paste that the RSX has on it in the center of the heat spreader.

i imagine this will happen with the cell's IHS as well, but the rsx is usually the culprit for YLOD and the silicon on the CELL's IHS makes it a challenge to get off.

PCChazter made it!(author)2015-08-29

I have tried this method twice on the same board with no luck, do you think I should try again with the heatspreader off? Could it be pulling heat away from the solder joints that need to be reflowed?

CoreyR3 made it!(author)2015-06-27

I too recently had an issue with an old PS3 and the YLOD there are many fixes out there but none are as permanent or long lasting as the one that I have found

redstag made it!(author)2015-06-07

June 7 2015

Good Afternoon,

I just wanted to say thanks to the creator of this how to. I just finished putting everything back together and turning it on. Right now its updating and so far seems to be alright. I am still concerned about how hot it is getting; but i plan on looking into incorporating a fan into the top somewhere. Notes: 1)My oven does not go down to 150 only 170. The oven temperature read 170; however, the thermometer in the oven read between 175 and 195 through out the 8 hour bake. 2 )For the sticky tack i used locktite blue found at Walmart. I used a lot of this around all the components suggest (piezospeaker and i wrapped up the entire hdmi, component, and audio out area). Attached a picture its the closest area to the oven door. After the 500 degree bake i noticed some black residue left behind on the bottom of the board which i believe is left over from the sticky tack. I just cleaned it up with some alcohol. 3) Due to the oven temperature and thermotometer tempearture reading differently i set the oven to 525 and once i saw the thermometer read 455 or so i took i turned the oven off, opened the door, and used the fan to cool away from the oven. To heat up the oven it took about 20 minutes, roughly. 4) Some where there is a little metal spring that i found and not sure where it goes so be careful. I think it feel out somewhere around the step where you remove the fan or before. Attached is the image. 5) I think i used a lot of flux for the chips, i probably used roguhly about a 3/4 pipet filled with the no clean flux per chip doing the rotating method. Being that it only takes about 50$ to try this method it was well worth it, thanks again. Other than that i think everything is good. Ill try to keep you informed on how long it lasts. But like i said ill be looking into mounting a computer fan somewhere on the PS3. Thanks.

JamieDMcKee made it!(author)2015-02-22

Didn't work for me :( Followed the instructions exactly, did the 8 hour pre-bake and everything! Did the insulation (I was pretty over-cautious, no plastic melted and no popped caps afterwards so I think this was fine), was very liberal with the flux, made sure it was perfectly level and popped it in the oven on a tray feeling optimistic.

All seemed to be going well, but then just before it hit 460F on the oven thermometer (I'd guess around 445-455F), I heard what sounded like a few cracks and things pinging off the board. Killed the heat immediately and threw open the oven door. After letting it cool down, went to inspect the damage. The board seemed to have warped rather significantly and I found 3 tiny surface mount resistors and an 8 pin IC on the tray that had pinged off the board as I suspected :/

I wonder if success is highly reliant on ones specific oven and how it how fast it heats up etc? I think my oven heats up rather quickly looking now at the the temperature profile, it's a fan-assisted one. Seeing as I had nothing to lose, I figured I'd put it back together and see if it worked anyway.

Before I did so, I actually found the location on the board that the 8 pin IC had come from. As I'm pretty handy with a soldering iron, I used a magnifying glass and thin iron tip to solder the chip back on to the board, orienting it the same way as the identical chip next to it. Obviously I had no hope in hell of finding where the resistors originated from, but I hoped with the chip back in place it might be enough to boot the machine. No such luck :(

Plugged it in, still YLOD as before. Well, I guess it was worth a try, it's not like I lost anything since it didn't work beforehand anyways :P All I really wanted was my save games off it, I've already bought a replacement super slim PS3 now they're so cheap!

Things to take from this:watch out for ovens that heat up too quickly? And/or perhaps try a lower temperature first, see if that works, and if not then go all the way up to 460F? I wonder if my cheapo oven thermometer just wasn't accurate enough. Then again that wouldn't explain the board warping. Oh well.

MichaelM38 made it!(author)2015-02-13

I'm in the process of this method, first was just the removal of the BD; allowing a fan to be blown on the PS3 to cool it down. Just by removing and re-replacing the HD allowed me an hour of transfer time for non PS3 data to a Pen Drive. A hour is not all that long considering how slow the transfer rate is.

The PS3 requires a Sata drive that runs at 5200 RPM, I have an unused 120 Gig SSD drive that is a PS3 HD clone (Laptop drive), for the help this site provided I thought I'd share that, I don't know if it will work or not, but heck it's worth a try after it sees the oven.

This process (Oven) is becoming the "standard" first choice to or attempt the repair of video cards, the exception is the solder is meant to just begin to melt, filling in trace solder hairline cracks.

NOTE: A tip not mentioned or I missed, when baking video cards (PS boards) one should set it upon rolled balls of aluminum foil to keep it off the rack itself, allowing an even temp across the entire board. If static is a concern of yours, an oven is self grounding.

Good article; the explanation of why the oven very informative, thank you, comment below mentions a cat, I have a dog that never needs a bath, he sheds so much he has a new coat in a very short time. (a self cleaning dog is not all that handy to have around) not a hair was found in the PS3 so far but I haven't accessed the CPU/GPU yet.

I've been forced to join facebook, having been my most avoided site(s) (almost from it's beginning), blocking any line of data transfer to them, please don't abuse the fact I logged in with a facebook account, the least you could do seeing you block bugmenot accounts, allowing the above comment without the repercussions. I POP3 and will block (filter) those who abuse that fact, I have read your privacy policy, that's mine, thank you.

IanMNBrown made it!(author)2015-02-12

Sooooo my GPU actually physically separated from the board...... How bad is that? Lol

andym5 made it!(author)2015-02-04

I have a regular oven and a convection oven ( it has fans that circulate the hot air around). Which do you think would be better?

JoshWolf made it!(author)2015-01-25

make sure you insulate your board well, apparently I didn't insulate enough, heard the caps explode around 400f

MacGyvering made it!(author)2015-01-07

Tried it , didn't believe it would work. The lead less solder is the only thing i've read that makes sense. I put it in the oven at 400 F for 10 minutes (might be able to use a cooler temp depending on the melting temp of the solder). Towards the end there was some smoking coming from where the plugs would be. After i took it out there was some black stuff underneath where the smoking was. I snapped off the PRAM battery plug (green round thing be careful) but it wasnt too difficult to solder the wires directly to the board. Put it back together and it worked.

dbommu made it!(author)2014-12-19

I did the oven reflow and ps3 is live again .......i suggest insulating the back side plastic of the big power connector ....mine melted so be sure to insulate it as well

bhillson made it!(author)2014-12-17

followed this guide the only thing I didn't do was use any no clean. And also only baked the 1st part for 4 hours.

All put together and working fine, thank you.

bhillson made it!(author)2014-12-17

followed this guide the only thing I didn't do was use any no clean. And also only baked the 1st part for 4 hours.

All put together and working fine, thank you.

deeelwy made it!(author)2014-01-27

My PS3 recently died with the weird blinking red light and the three beeps. After, some googling this is called a YLOD despite my PS3 not actually having a yellow LED. I guess when sony made the PS3 cheaper they ditched the yellow light for a blinking red one. Some more googling found this page. So for about $15 worth of supplies I followed your instructions except I only dried and unwarped my board for 2 hours instead of 8. To my amzement it actually worked! I couldn't believe it. Not only does it work, but it is also about 3 or 4 times faster at starting up and loading the menu. I created an account on this site just so I could post this, Thanks!

tisaconundrum made it!(author)2014-03-07

red and green make yellow.

deeelwy made it!(author)2014-12-15

As mentioned in my comment above, my PS3 YLODed again after 9 months of Netflixing. This time I did actually see the yellow light! Apparently, first the light is green, because the system is on, and then when it fails the system makes the red light blink while turning off the green light, but on the very first red blink the green light is still on. And as you say, "red and green make yellow."

deeelwy made it!(author)2014-12-15

Apparently, reflows are only temporary fixes. I got 10 months of mostly just Netflix out of my PS3 after reflowing it using this cool method. While considering reflowing it again, I bizarrely opted for a reball instead. It was kinda pricey but also kinda affordable at $99 shipping both ways included, but it took ages. Their site claims it takes 2-5 business days; instead, it book an incredible 3 weeks not including shipping!

The most annoying part was the packet of info you receive when you get your PS3 back after they've reballed it. It details that reballs aren't miracles, and that my PS3 could still quickly fail again. And also recommends a 200 hour "burn-in" to make the Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste work better. The best advice was to keep my PS3 horizontal instead of vertical for better ventilation, which really does seem to help out. This information made the $99 seem like an even bigger waste of money. Also, now that the PS4 has come out used prices on PS3 slims on ebay are not all that much more than $99 making the reball value even more questionable.

ElliottR made it!(author)2014-10-08

No one believed me when I told them that I was going to fix my PS3 by baking the motherboard in the oven. No one. They all laughed. Mocked, even. "You know, it will work better if you wear a tin foil hat while you're doing it! Hahaha!"

But who's laughing now? Me. For the madness that is this instructable is the very thing that has resurrected my once dead PS3. The only casualty of the process was the component jack which, while exhibiting no observable signs of damage, works no more. I found this to be especially tragic considering it was more well insulated than any other part of the board. But this loss is nothing compared to the gain of a functioning system.


Upon updating I encountered the dreaded UPDATE LOOP (which I write in caps to attract the attention of the other poor souls trapped in this seemingly inescapable Sarlac Pit of the software variety). While I spent more than five hours battling this poorly (intentionally?) designed software flaw, I eventually found the solution to be remarkably simple.

Through hints found on the Internet, I began to suspect the ribbon which connects the blue-ray drive to the motherboard. Frustrated and exhausted, I unenthusiastically opened the cover, removed the ribbon, turned it around, and replaced it motherboard side in the blue-ray drive, and vice-versa. And believe it or not, this solved my UPDATE LOOP.

I've read elsewhere that for others the problem was the Bluetooth component. Whatever the case, it's obvious now to me that the UPDATE LOOP is caused by faulty hardware, and is not solved through software manipulation. Even when I was able to attempt an update through my USB drive, I still encountered the same error. Don't bother with such nonsense. Tear your system down again, and re-check every line, cable, cord, and connection. Reverse your blue-ray cable, slap it back together, and see what happens. I'm confident you'll have more luck doing that than you will with any of the popular "methods" you'll find searching the Internet.

Thank you for the awesome guide, and happy tinkering to all!

hamoudy made it!(author)2014-09-25

thank you i tried this way and it worked, but now it is stuck in a system update loop does anybody know how to fix this?

ElliottR made it!(author)2014-10-08

I had the same problem. After hours of messing with the hard drive and trying to trick the system into reformat mode (which I finally did, but it didn't work), I finally found some information on the blue ray drive causing this. So I opened the case back up, swapped the ends of the blue ray ribbon, put it back together, and presto! Update completed successfully. I've had no trouble since, although I suspect I'll have to replace the ribbon sometime in the near future.

grazer made it!(author)2013-09-16

I think something went wrong in the oven, when I opened it, a cloud of smoke rose out... So I took it outside to settle and cool down, I hope it will work...

hamoudy made it!(author)2014-09-25

same thing happen to me but it worked!

buddyslack made it!(author)2014-08-12

Gave this a try but unfortunatly still had YLOD so tried again leaving in the oven a bit longer, put back together and still YLOD. On the plus side I can take apart and put back together a ps3 real quick now

Treagle350 made it!(author)2014-07-28

Thank you, This guide has proven to be really practical. My ps3 is now working again after the fix. But I had to use the standard AV multi out cables to get video. I will now try to use HDMI but video reset has proven of no use so far. Thus my search continues ...

kdigre made it!(author)2014-07-21

Do I need to use blutak or can I use generic adhesive putty?

MCStrider made it!(author)2014-05-29

Very nice work, much appreciated! My fat ps3 got YLOD first time about 18 months ago. I followed the instructions here (up to 450 degrees) and got it working again. Lasted about 8 months, then hit YLOD again. Did the process again, though let it get a bit warmer (up to 460+). Worked and lasted about 10 months, then YLOD again. Followed the process again, but used lots more flux (lots of excess on the board). Bought a new stand alone oven thermometer (for $6) and it seemed to be about 30-40 degrees behind the oven temp display (wasn't sure if this was due to the placement of the stand alone, or if one or both were a bit inaccurate). I trusted the stand alone, but had to set the oven up to 520 to get the stand alone up to 460. When I pulled the board out, some of the plastic connectors were melted (the HDMI connector and the big 2 prong connector that connects to the power supply). I suspect the temp got well above 460. Had to break off some of the melted plastic to get it back together - but everything fit OK. Confidence was not high it'd work this time (3rd time + melted parts...), but tried it out and it lives again! (note that it's only been running for one day...) Suggestion - get an accurate thermometer (or 2) and test them in the oven without the ps3 board in it....

sjgusmc21 made it!(author)2014-05-04

Thank you for this great guide! I have a 7 year old Fat PS3 with 30 GB hd and it bit the bullet 2 days ago. Followed your guide and worked like a champ! I couldn't find the blue tack stuff, so I used white playdough instead and it worked great! Thank you again!

NeuroPulse made it!(author)2013-09-23

My PS3 does not have YLOD. I get a green light and can navigate the menus, but when I launch a game or app the screen turns black and stays that way. Does that problem have the same cause as YLOD?

tisaconundrum made it!(author)2014-03-07

Make sure all your wires are correctly in, the CD drives main wires have a tendency to slip out. Make sure to snap the wires in well.

tisaconundrum made it!(author)2014-03-01

PS3 finally died :P Lol, i'll be fixing it again at some point.

tisaconundrum made it!(author)2014-03-07

PS3 is finally up and running again, I'd like to stress some keypoints!

The screws should all be of equal length! This will ensure that you're board straightens out correctly.
Second, the pizza board that you use should also be straight. If it's thin, this is good. the board will naturally straighten out from the heat.
Third, don't use the tack consecutive times for cooking, it begins to decay rapidly and will start sticking to your components.
Fourth, make sure you seal up the components jack! it will melt, I had the displeasure of dealing with that.
Fifth, Don't ever force your PS3 back into the casing, this will certainly break a solder ball somewhere. This isn't a big deal as you can bake the PS3 again, just be sure that you're PS3 is straight to begin with.

PS: I suggest buying all same screws (to keep consistent height), just make sure you're nuts are big enough to NOT fit through the holes of the PS3.

aredding1 made it!(author)2014-02-24

I love you. I successfully fixed my Yellow Light of Don't-work-none with this guide. Thank you very much for all the great info.

rt124 made it!(author)2014-01-26

Hi, I have been reburbishing ps3s for over 3 years and previously used a heat gun for reflows. I had less than 25% success rate and for the most part when I got a ps3 with YLOD, NO VIDEO I would just throw them away. Since reading this I have begun reflowing ps3s again, my success rate in now 90% or higher. Thank you., I could of saved myself, and made a lot more money!

tisaconundrum made it!(author)2014-01-20

Here I am again :D And my PS3 has not failed yet :D
I thank you again for this instructable.

PhiPhi89 made it!(author)2013-12-09

Let me first say that although I frequent I just now created an account to express my gratitude.

I was definitely skeptical of this procedure, so I put it off until I had run out of options (i.e. blow dryer with box, replacing therm paste and using blow dryer, etc..).
Yesterday I finally decided to give it a go. I followed the procedure exactly with 3 exceptions: 1) Oven was at 170 not 150, and 2) like phoneman6m7 (couldn't tag for some reason) my oven beeped at 450 saying preheat was complete--I waited just 5 mins longer; and 3) I should have listened about the insulating the component port....

To my dismay: when I opened the oven after the 500F bake smoke came pouring out, and boy did it smell! When the m-board finally cooled, I turned it over... and there was a big burnt spot! I almost trashed it right there :( I believe I may have used too much flux and it pooled and cooked. Despite my sadness I scrubbed and scrubbed the residue with shop towels and alcohol for about 30mins... I removed as much as I could, but there was still hard black carbon caked on a couple spots. I figured it was pointless, but I re-assembled the unit and plugged in the power for kicks.... IT WORKED!
....I was speechless.... Thank you Formulajake88! Thank you, thank you, thank you. I played a round of BO2, and it was flawless. :):):)

The only issue I had was: since I did not insulate the component input, it melted. I had to carve off pieces of the hardened plastic so that the m-board would fit back into the chassis.
I have a friend who also has YLOD, so I may be doing this again in the near future. Best of luck to all of you!

mixmanuk made it!(author)2013-11-15

Many thanks for this article it worked a treat. It was the most thorough one I found and explained why certain other methods are not advisable and won't last as long. I wasn't looking for a quick fix as I'd like my original 60 GB to last me a lot longer if possible.
If you're following this from the UK (where I am) IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) is not easy to come by...I found mine in Maplins, Servisol IPA 170...£10 mind you!
I used Ever Build Wonder Wipes to clean the majority of the compound off and then rubbed over with some IPA.
Also I got my no clean flux from the form of a pen (can see being used in this video again £10.
I did the full bake for 8 hours at 65°C and then the actual reflow upto 235°C.
I used the instructions here ( for the dismantling of the PS3.
Once again many thanks

NeuroPulse made it!(author)2013-09-25

Greetings. I advise adding to use liquid no-clean flux. Put it under the CPU and GPU from the sides of the chips with a syringe.

tisaconundrum made it!(author)2013-08-11

Followed your instructions to a t, except for the oven temperature, I end up doing 400 degrees. in the end it was successful.
Note: no you do not need the solder liquid, it helps though. other alternatives to Blu Tack, fun tack. make sure your pan is straight, my motherboard ended up warping a little bit. make sure you clean your mother board well or else it well get really smokey in the oven.

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Bio: I am a sophomore in Computer Engineering at Purdue University in Lafayette, IN. Over the past few years a have fixed just about anything you ... More »
More by formulajake88:Fixing the "Open Tray" error (for XBOX 360's with Liteon drives only).How to fix a YLOD PS3... with an oven.
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