Step 4: Low Temperature Oven Bake

Alright, so the purpose of this step is twofold. First, it helps to gently unflex the mainboard, and second, it serves to evaporate moisture that has trapped itself in the board over time, which is critical to get rid of in order to perform a good re-flow. However, the motherboard can't just be tossed on a pizza tray and then into the oven. This is where the bolts come in. They will be used to create a simple stand for the board, so no parts of it will be directly touching the tray.

First, put a nut about 10mm down on a bolt you are going to use. The smaller M4 bolts go around the outside of the board, and the M5's go in two of the big holes in the middle (see pictures). Then, place it in a hole on the board. Now, take another nut and screw it down until the top of the nut is flush with the top to the bolt. Then tighten the nut underneath the board until it "pinches" the board tightly. No need to crank down on these - finger tightening  is good enough. Do this for all the bolts. Make sure when you do the M5's that the nut on top of the board does not come into contact with any chips or other small components.

Then, set the board on an even surface like a counter-top. You want to look straight on at the board and make sure it is level. If it sags or curves in the middle, adjust the middle bolts so that it does not.

Once this is done, it's time to cook. Preheat the oven to 150 degrees Fahrenheit. If your oven will not go this low, you can go as high as 170 without insulation, but any higher and you risk damaging the board. If you simply cannot get your oven to do this you can skip this step, but it is very beneficial to do it if possible.

Alright, when the oven is ready put the board on a pizza tray and pop it in the oven for 8 HOURS. That's right, 8 hours. This ensures a completely dry and straight board, and is totally worth the wait. If possible start the bake early - then you will have time to re-flow later in the same day.

Once the wait is over, take the mainboard out of the oven and let it cool completely. Now it's time to insulate.

<p>Fix your PS3 YLOD in 1 hour!</p><p>http://e6433m04yv1flt1fywvv0pq775.hop.clickbank.net/</p>
<p>Used a simplified version of this HowTo. I just cleaned the board, put it flat on a grill rost, cpu&amp;gpu side up and heated it to 240&deg;C, then waited 3 minutes, cooled it down by opening the oven. The only trace of the heating process was a slightly molten part of the old TV cable socket (not HDMI) and some darkened stains. I sawed to molten part off, reassembled the PS3, turned it on .... aaaaannnddddd ... works like a charm!!! Thanks a lot for this HowTo, it was great fun and had a happy ending :-)</p>
couldnt find long enough m4 hex nuts anywhere. decided to use thermal ahesive to attach 20mm M8 bolts to 16mm M4 and M5 bolts. i assume the adhesive will be fine.<br><br>the only thing this guide is missing, is removing the IHS heatspreader off the RSX chip, and cleaning all the adhesive off the four ram chips, then using either thermal adhesive (arctic alumina) or else thermal paste(i like arctic mx-4) to attach the heatspreader after.<br><br>reflowing a board with the IHS still attached will completely own all the thermal paste that the RSX has on it in the center of the heat spreader.<br><br>i imagine this will happen with the cell's IHS as well, but the rsx is usually the culprit for YLOD and the silicon on the CELL's IHS makes it a challenge to get off.
<p>I have tried this method twice on the same board with no luck, do you think I should try again with the heatspreader off? Could it be pulling heat away from the solder joints that need to be reflowed?</p>
<p>I just had my PS3 slim 120GB get the YLOD. I follows the instructions on this page. Insulated to the max. Fluxed the CPU and GPU. Put the PS3 back together. Hit the power button GREEN LIGHT but NO VIDEO. Does anyone have any ideas. Thanks</p>
<p>I too recently had an issue with an old PS3 and the YLOD there are many fixes out there but none are as permanent or long lasting as the one that I have found http://224bey0mmpymv4rkz2qe3o3pdq.hop.clickbank.net/</p>
<p>June 7 2015</p><p>Good Afternoon,</p><p> I just wanted to say thanks to the creator of this how to. I just finished putting everything back together and turning it on. Right now its updating and so far seems to be alright. I am still concerned about how hot it is getting; but i plan on looking into incorporating a fan into the top somewhere. Notes: 1)My oven does not go down to 150 only 170. The oven temperature read 170; however, the thermometer in the oven read between 175 and 195 through out the 8 hour bake. 2 )For the sticky tack i used locktite blue found at Walmart. I used a lot of this around all the components suggest (piezospeaker and i wrapped up the entire hdmi, component, and audio out area). Attached a picture its the closest area to the oven door. After the 500 degree bake i noticed some black residue left behind on the bottom of the board which i believe is left over from the sticky tack. I just cleaned it up with some alcohol. 3) Due to the oven temperature and thermotometer tempearture reading differently i set the oven to 525 and once i saw the thermometer read 455 or so i took i turned the oven off, opened the door, and used the fan to cool away from the oven. To heat up the oven it took about 20 minutes, roughly. 4) Some where there is a little metal spring that i found and not sure where it goes so be careful. I think it feel out somewhere around the step where you remove the fan or before. Attached is the image. 5) I think i used a lot of flux for the chips, i probably used roguhly about a 3/4 pipet filled with the no clean flux per chip doing the rotating method. Being that it only takes about 50$ to try this method it was well worth it, thanks again. Other than that i think everything is good. Ill try to keep you informed on how long it lasts. But like i said ill be looking into mounting a computer fan somewhere on the PS3. Thanks.</p>
<p>Didn't work for me :( Followed the instructions exactly, did the 8 hour pre-bake and everything! Did the insulation (I was pretty over-cautious, no plastic melted and no popped caps afterwards so I think this was fine), was very liberal with the flux, made sure it was perfectly level and popped it in the oven on a tray feeling optimistic.</p><p>All seemed to be going well, but then just before it hit 460F on the oven thermometer (I'd guess around 445-455F), I heard what sounded like a few cracks and things pinging off the board. Killed the heat immediately and threw open the oven door. After letting it cool down, went to inspect the damage. The board seemed to have warped rather significantly and I found 3 tiny surface mount resistors and an 8 pin IC on the tray that had pinged off the board as I suspected :/</p><p>I wonder if success is highly reliant on ones specific oven and how it how fast it heats up etc? I think my oven heats up rather quickly looking now at the the temperature profile, it's a fan-assisted one. Seeing as I had nothing to lose, I figured I'd put it back together and see if it worked anyway.</p><p>Before I did so, I actually found the location on the board that the 8 pin IC had come from. As I'm pretty handy with a soldering iron, I used a magnifying glass and thin iron tip to solder the chip back on to the board, orienting it the same way as the identical chip next to it. Obviously I had no hope in hell of finding where the resistors originated from, but I hoped with the chip back in place it might be enough to boot the machine. No such luck :(</p><p>Plugged it in, still YLOD as before. Well, I guess it was worth a try, it's not like I lost anything since it didn't work beforehand anyways :P All I really wanted was my save games off it, I've already bought a replacement super slim PS3 now they're so cheap!</p><p>Things to take from this:watch out for ovens that heat up too quickly? And/or perhaps try a lower temperature first, see if that works, and if not then go all the way up to 460F? I wonder if my cheapo oven thermometer just wasn't accurate enough. Then again that wouldn't explain the board warping. Oh well.</p>
<p>I'm in the process of this method, first was just the removal of the BD; allowing a fan to be blown on the PS3 to cool it down. Just by removing and re-replacing the HD allowed me an hour of transfer time for non PS3 data to a Pen Drive. A hour is not all that long considering how slow the transfer rate is.</p><p>The PS3 requires a Sata drive that runs at 5200 RPM, I have an unused 120 Gig SSD drive that is a PS3 HD clone (Laptop drive), for the help this site provided I thought I'd share that, I don't know if it will work or not, but heck it's worth a try after it sees the oven.</p><p>This process (Oven) is becoming the &quot;standard&quot; first choice to or attempt the repair of video cards, the exception is the solder is meant to just begin to melt, filling in trace solder hairline cracks.</p><p><strong>NOTE:</strong> A tip not mentioned or I missed, when baking video cards (PS boards) one should set it upon rolled balls of aluminum foil to keep it off the rack itself, allowing an even temp across the entire board. If static is a concern of yours, an oven is self grounding.</p><p>Good article; the explanation of why the oven very informative, thank you, comment below mentions a cat, I have a dog that never needs a bath, he sheds so much he has a new coat in a very short time. (a self cleaning dog is not all that handy to have around) not a hair was found in the PS3 so far but I haven't accessed the CPU/GPU yet.</p><p>I've been forced to join facebook, having been my most avoided site(s) (almost from it's beginning), blocking any line of data transfer to them, please don't abuse the fact I logged in with a facebook account, the least you could do seeing you block bugmenot accounts, allowing the above comment without the repercussions. I POP3 and will block (filter) those who abuse that fact, I have read your privacy policy, that's mine, thank you.</p>
Sooooo my GPU actually physically separated from the board...... How bad is that? Lol
<p>I have a regular oven and a convection oven ( it has fans that circulate the hot air around). Which do you think would be better?</p>
make sure you insulate your board well, apparently I didn't insulate enough, heard the caps explode around 400f
<p>Tried it , didn't believe it would work. The lead less solder is the only thing i've read that makes sense. I put it in the oven at 400 F for 10 minutes (might be able to use a cooler temp depending on the melting temp of the solder). Towards the end there was some smoking coming from where the plugs would be. After i took it out there was some black stuff underneath where the smoking was. I snapped off the PRAM battery plug (green round thing be careful) but it wasnt too difficult to solder the wires directly to the board. Put it back together and it worked.</p>
I did the oven reflow and ps3 is live again .......i suggest insulating the back side plastic of the big power connector ....mine melted so be sure to insulate it as well
<p>followed this guide the only thing I didn't do was use any no clean. And also only baked the 1st part for 4 hours.</p><p>All put together and working fine, thank you.</p>
<p>followed this guide the only thing I didn't do was use any no clean. And also only baked the 1st part for 4 hours.</p><p>All put together and working fine, thank you.</p>
<p>My PS3 recently died with the weird blinking red light and the three beeps. After, some googling this is called a YLOD despite my PS3 not actually having a yellow LED. I guess when sony made the PS3 cheaper they ditched the yellow light for a blinking red one. Some more googling found this page. So for about $15 worth of supplies I followed your instructions except I only dried and unwarped my board for 2 hours instead of 8. To my amzement it actually worked! I couldn't believe it. Not only does it work, but it is also about 3 or 4 times faster at starting up and loading the menu. I created an account on this site just so I could post this, Thanks!</p>
<p>red and green make yellow.</p>
<p>As mentioned in my comment above, my PS3 YLODed again after 9 months of Netflixing. This time I did actually see the yellow light! Apparently, first the light is green, because the system is on, and then when it fails the system makes the red light blink while turning off the green light, but on the very first red blink the green light is still on. And as you say, &quot;red and green make yellow.&quot;</p>
<p>Apparently, reflows are only temporary fixes. I got 10 months of mostly just Netflix out of my PS3 after reflowing it using this cool method. While considering reflowing it again, I bizarrely opted for a reball instead. It was kinda pricey but also kinda affordable at $99 shipping both ways included, but it took ages. Their site claims it takes 2-5 business days; instead, it book an incredible 3 weeks not including shipping! </p><p>The most annoying part was the packet of info you receive when you get your PS3 back after they've reballed it. It details that reballs aren't miracles, and that my PS3 could still quickly fail again. And also recommends a 200 hour &quot;burn-in&quot; to make the Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste work better. The best advice was to keep my PS3 horizontal instead of vertical for better ventilation, which really does seem to help out. This information made the $99 seem like an even bigger waste of money. Also, now that the PS4 has come out used prices on PS3 slims on ebay are not all that much more than $99 making the reball value even more questionable.</p>
<p>No one believed me when I told them that I was going to fix my PS3 by baking the motherboard in the oven. No one. They all laughed. Mocked, even. &quot;You know, it will work better if you wear a tin foil hat while you're doing it! Hahaha!&quot;</p><p>But who's laughing now? Me. For the madness that is this instructable is the very thing that has resurrected my once dead PS3. The only casualty of the process was the component jack which, while exhibiting no observable signs of damage, works no more. I found this to be especially tragic considering it was more well insulated than any other part of the board. But this loss is nothing compared to the gain of a functioning system.</p><p>HOWEVER!!! </p><p>Upon updating I encountered the dreaded UPDATE LOOP (which I write in caps to attract the attention of the other poor souls trapped in this seemingly inescapable Sarlac Pit of the software variety). While I spent more than five hours battling this poorly (intentionally?) designed software flaw, I eventually found the solution to be remarkably simple.</p><p>Through hints found on the Internet, I began to suspect the ribbon which connects the blue-ray drive to the motherboard. Frustrated and exhausted, I unenthusiastically opened the cover, removed the ribbon, turned it around, and replaced it motherboard side in the blue-ray drive, and vice-versa. And believe it or not, this solved my UPDATE LOOP.</p><p>I've read elsewhere that for others the problem was the Bluetooth component. Whatever the case, it's obvious now to me that the UPDATE LOOP is caused by faulty hardware, and is not solved through software manipulation. Even when I was able to attempt an update through my USB drive, I still encountered the same error. Don't bother with such nonsense. Tear your system down again, and re-check every line, cable, cord, and connection. Reverse your blue-ray cable, slap it back together, and see what happens. I'm confident you'll have more luck doing that than you will with any of the popular &quot;methods&quot; you'll find searching the Internet.</p><p>Thank you for the awesome guide, and happy tinkering to all!</p>
<p>thank you i tried this way and it worked, but now it is stuck in a system update loop does anybody know how to fix this?</p>
<p>I had the same problem. After hours of messing with the hard drive and trying to trick the system into reformat mode (which I finally did, but it didn't work), I finally found some information on the blue ray drive causing this. So I opened the case back up, swapped the ends of the blue ray ribbon, put it back together, and presto! Update completed successfully. I've had no trouble since, although I suspect I'll have to replace the ribbon sometime in the near future.</p>
I think something went wrong in the oven, when I opened it, a cloud of smoke rose out... So I took it outside to settle and cool down, I hope it will work...
<p>same thing happen to me but it worked!</p>
<p>Gave this a try but unfortunatly still had YLOD so tried again leaving in the oven a bit longer, put back together and still YLOD. On the plus side I can take apart and put back together a ps3 real quick now</p>
<p>Thank you, This guide has proven to be really practical. My ps3 is now working again after the fix. But I had to use the standard AV multi out cables to get video. I will now try to use HDMI but video reset has proven of no use so far. Thus my search continues ...</p>
<p>Do I need to use blutak or can I use generic adhesive putty? </p>
<p>Very nice work, much appreciated! My fat ps3 got YLOD first time about 18 months ago. I followed the instructions here (up to 450 degrees) and got it working again. Lasted about 8 months, then hit YLOD again. Did the process again, though let it get a bit warmer (up to 460+). Worked and lasted about 10 months, then YLOD again. Followed the process again, but used lots more flux (lots of excess on the board). Bought a new stand alone oven thermometer (for $6) and it seemed to be about 30-40 degrees behind the oven temp display (wasn't sure if this was due to the placement of the stand alone, or if one or both were a bit inaccurate). I trusted the stand alone, but had to set the oven up to 520 to get the stand alone up to 460. When I pulled the board out, some of the plastic connectors were melted (the HDMI connector and the big 2 prong connector that connects to the power supply). I suspect the temp got well above 460. Had to break off some of the melted plastic to get it back together - but everything fit OK. Confidence was not high it'd work this time (3rd time + melted parts...), but tried it out and it lives again! (note that it's only been running for one day...) Suggestion - get an accurate thermometer (or 2) and test them in the oven without the ps3 board in it....</p>
<p>Thank you for this great guide! I have a 7 year old Fat PS3 with 30 GB hd and it bit the bullet 2 days ago. Followed your guide and worked like a champ! I couldn't find the blue tack stuff, so I used white playdough instead and it worked great! Thank you again!</p>
My PS3 does not have YLOD. I get a green light and can navigate the menus, but when I launch a game or app the screen turns black and stays that way. Does that problem have the same cause as YLOD?
<p>Make sure all your wires are correctly in, the CD drives main wires have a tendency to slip out. Make sure to snap the wires in well.</p>
<p>PS3 finally died :P Lol, i'll be fixing it again at some point.</p>
<p>PS3 is finally up and running again, I'd like to stress some keypoints!</p><p>The screws should all be of equal length! This will ensure that you're board straightens out correctly. <br>Second, the pizza board that you use should also be straight. If it's thin, this is good. the board will naturally straighten out from the heat. <br>Third, don't use the tack consecutive times for cooking, it begins to decay rapidly and will start sticking to your components. <br>Fourth, make sure you seal up the components jack! it will melt, I had the displeasure of dealing with that.<br>Fifth, Don't ever force your PS3 back into the casing, this will certainly break a solder ball somewhere. This isn't a big deal as you can bake the PS3 again, just be sure that you're PS3 is straight to begin with.</p><p><br>PS: I suggest buying all same screws (to keep consistent height), just make sure you're nuts are big enough to NOT fit through the holes of the PS3.</p>
I love you. I successfully fixed my Yellow Light of Don't-work-none with this guide. Thank you very much for all the great info.
<p>Hi, I have been reburbishing ps3s for over 3 years and previously used a heat gun for reflows. I had less than 25% success rate and for the most part when I got a ps3 with YLOD, NO VIDEO I would just throw them away. Since reading this I have begun reflowing ps3s again, my success rate in now 90% or higher. Thank you., I could of saved myself, and made a lot more money!</p>
<p>Here I am again :D And my PS3 has not failed yet :D <br>I thank you again for this instructable.</p>
Let me first say that although I frequent instructables.com I just now created an account to express my gratitude. <br> <br>THANK YOU!!! <br>I was definitely skeptical of this procedure, so I put it off until I had run out of options (i.e. blow dryer with box, replacing therm paste and using blow dryer, etc..). <br>Yesterday I finally decided to give it a go. I followed the procedure exactly with 3 exceptions: 1) Oven was at 170 not 150, and 2) like phoneman6m7 (couldn't tag for some reason) my oven beeped at 450 saying preheat was complete--I waited just 5 mins longer; and 3) I should have listened about the insulating the component port.... <br> <br>To my dismay: when I opened the oven after the 500F bake smoke came pouring out, and boy did it smell! When the m-board finally cooled, I turned it over... and there was a big burnt spot! I almost trashed it right there :( I believe I may have used too much flux and it pooled and cooked. Despite my sadness I scrubbed and scrubbed the residue with shop towels and alcohol for about 30mins... I removed as much as I could, but there was still hard black carbon caked on a couple spots. I figured it was pointless, but I re-assembled the unit and plugged in the power for kicks.... IT WORKED! <br>....I was speechless.... Thank you Formulajake88! Thank you, thank you, thank you. I played a round of BO2, and it was flawless. :):):) <br> <br>The only issue I had was: since I did not insulate the component input, it melted. I had to carve off pieces of the hardened plastic so that the m-board would fit back into the chassis. <br>I have a friend who also has YLOD, so I may be doing this again in the near future. Best of luck to all of you!
Many thanks for this article it worked a treat. It was the most thorough one I found and explained why certain other methods are not advisable and won't last as long. I wasn't looking for a quick fix as I'd like my original 60 GB to last me a lot longer if possible. <br> If you're following this from the UK (where I am) IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) is not easy to come by...I found mine in Maplins, Servisol IPA 170...&pound;10 mind you! <br>I used Ever Build Wonder Wipes to clean the majority of the compound off and then rubbed over with some IPA.<br> Also I got my no clean flux from Maplins..in the form of a pen (can see being used in this video http://youtu.be/MZRReDIHTe0) again &pound;10. <br>I did the full bake for 8 hours at 65&deg;C and then the actual reflow upto 235&deg;C. <br>I used the instructions here (http://psxrepair.com/taking_apart_the_ps3) for the dismantling of the PS3. <br>Once again many thanks
Greetings. I advise adding to use liquid no-clean flux. Put it under the CPU and GPU from the sides of the chips with a syringe.
Followed your instructions to a t, except for the oven temperature, I end up doing 400 degrees. in the end it was successful. <br>Note: no you do not need the solder liquid, it helps though. other alternatives to Blu Tack, fun tack. make sure your pan is straight, my motherboard ended up warping a little bit. make sure you clean your mother board well or else it well get really smokey in the oven.
I've fixed two First Gen 80GB consoles multiple times with this method and it works every time. You become very efficient at this once you've done it a few times, but don't forget to make sure you've insulated and done all the steps (except for the long bake if you arent concerned about it). Thanks for the steps!
So many thanks!! It really worked for me! I had a 60GB ps3 that would turn on and show a green light, but no video/audio and no controller connection at all. I think this 'green light of death' is almost the same as the well-known YLOD, but not enough to let the playstation show te yellow light sign. So for people with the same problem, this works!
You only have to press and hold the button, to reset the display action. Lolz
The lowest setting my oven has is 170 degrees farenheit, but the oven thermometer I bought is reading 190F when set at 170. How long should I do the long bake at this temp? <br>Also, I bought some yellow sticky tack made by the Super Glue company. That should work just as well, right? I am assuming it's the same stuff... <br>Lastly, I took my PS3 in to a repair shop where they repaired it once and that lasted about 3 weeks. Then I took it back (warranty) and they couldn't fix it a second time, although I can't be sure they actually tried a second time. I am hoping to get the unit working (via your method) long enough to transfer data from the defective PS3 to my new one. Have you ever heard of people having success with this type of situation? I think they did a &quot;reflow&quot; the first time. <br>
You could just pull the data out if the drive by sticking it in your computer and then using a Linux live CD pull the data out.
Can you name some alternatives to blue tak, because there is no such thing where I live
I don't know if you mentioned it ... But people please remember to remove your battery from the motherboard .. I popped mine in the oven loolll
Ok I have done this twice and it has extended my PS3 life by about 6-8 months so far! Just gone YLOD again today so wondering how many times this will work. Going to give it a go again anyway and see if it lasts until the new Xbox comes out (yeah...Im going to swap to the dark side...Sony havent exactly impressed me!). Still, Im on 378 hours of PS3 battlefield 3 so Im not giving up yet!
Used this method 3 times now on an original PS3 FAT backwards compatible and getting more slap dash each time. Just done my third 'cook' with little hope and zero insulation - worked! All I need the machine to do is last an hour or so to let me back up all my stuff and I'll be happy. Great post so big kudos sir! And for everyone that's a little concerned about trying it - what do you have to lose?

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Bio: I am a sophomore in Computer Engineering at Purdue University in Lafayette, IN. Over the past few years a have fixed just about anything you ... More »
More by formulajake88: Fixing the "Open Tray" error (for XBOX 360's with Liteon drives only). How to fix a YLOD PS3... with an oven.
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