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How to fix a classic American AM tabletop tube radio

How to fix a classic American AM tabletop tube radio
Back in the day somebody always knew somebody else that could fix minor things on radios and that's what I'm going to cover here. In this instructable I'm going to walk you through the basics of getting an old tube table top radio up and running. Finding a repair shop that can fix old radios can be real tough. If you do find one, the bill may be pretty daunting. This will not cover 100% of all problems but will get most radios that aren't severely damaged back in operating order. This instructable assumes that you have some electronics background, you can read values on parts, and you can solder. This instructable is geared towards getting a common 5 tube AM table top radio working but the info presented is applicable to a multitude of old tube radios.
 
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Step 1Got radio?

Got radio?
So you just inherited a cool old radio from grandma, or perhaps you saw this neat looking old radio at a yard sale and couldn't resist the price. You lug that wonderful behemoth of American craftsmanship home and get ready to plug it in... STOP! DONT EVEN THINK ABOUT PLUGGING IT IN!

Plugging in an old vacuum tube radio thats been sitting for years will usually result in bad times. You might let out the magic smoke (burnt component), damage tubes, short stuff out, trip your house breaker, or maybe even catch fire. Think I'm kidding? Read on and I'll walk you through a little radio history and some electronics lessons.
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57 comments
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May 14, 2012. 8:17 PMcarchub says:
Hello again! Just finished this step and got some tubes to in line to buy, except one. I can't find the number on it (by the way it's glass), and it looks like the inside is completely blacked out. I do see a sort of stamp on the top, but it's too worn-away, and all I can make out is a 19 and a 6. Oh, and a prong is missing on the bottom (there were two missing on another one, but I was able to get the number on that one). Thanks for your help, this is a really fun project, and I can't wait to set this thing up for listening!
May 15, 2012. 8:43 PMcarchub says:
Totally worked, and I got the number, 50L6! Thanks again
May 12, 2012. 11:39 AMcarchub says:
How would you suggest removing the front knobs? My wont budge =( By the way thanks for this instructable, I just got myself a Magic Tone 500.
May 13, 2012. 2:17 PMcarchub says:
Thanks so much! I can totally see the set screws on them =D
Jun 27, 2011. 2:21 PMjjjjwiz says:
Hello, I have an old philco that i just recapped. The radio will pick up all stations and sound good at low volume. When I turn it up - it gets lound but very distorted - any help would be great "I am very skilled in electronics and tubes, so get as technical as you like" THANKS
May 1, 2011. 7:48 AMstienut says:
Super ible. I can't wait to see what's up with my 1936 American Bosch. Very well done, indeed!
Jan 9, 2011. 9:10 PMCBTman01 says:
The lack of transformer was not for savings purposes, but to allow the radio sets to work on DC power lines, like those used in those days in many countries, including the US, in addition to AC power lines. Surprisingly, although there are virtually no DC power lines at the 115 or 208 voltages, many long distance transmission lines now carry DC, not AC, because it is cheaper (and feasible) to do so.

If the voltage of the filaments did not add up to 120 or 220 V (used outside the US), the manufacturers added a resistor for extra voltage drop. In many cases, to save space and reduce internal heat, such resistor was wound inside the power cord, which made it warm to the touch when the radio was on.

The safest way to work with a "Five" is to use an isolation transformer (1:1) of the right volt amp rate (around 200 VA). This way, none of the power cord wires would be related to ground and it would be possible to touch the chassis without a 50/50 chance of getting electrocuted.
Mar 6, 2009. 12:52 AMmaxstevenson says:
Great pic! Thanks! I never knew what a great invention the circuit board was. Some of my industrial controllers, still in use, from the 1980-90s have screen printed boards that look so quaint. Now I know... that quaint is great.
Mar 14, 2009. 7:52 PMReCreate says:
yeah,imagine a computer built like that...whew he ah ha! circuit board-less!
Apr 13, 2009. 4:21 PMfender-electric-guitar says:
yea the whole thing would be as big as a refridgrater literally!!!
Apr 13, 2009. 4:45 PMReCreate says:
Ha yeah
Jun 12, 2010. 1:42 AMLeviMan_2001 says:
I think you guys need to get to know ENIAC http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/farid/teaching/cs4/summer.08/notes/historyofcomputing/eniac.jpg
Jun 10, 2010. 10:54 PMjernlee says:
Thank you very much for taking the time to help the people that do not know Thanks again jerry
Feb 18, 2010. 11:22 AMBasinStreetDesign says:
Excellent instructable!  Very accurate, knowledgeable and, with only a couple of goofs, even spelled correctly.  I have a few old tubers here and am still waiting for the gumption to get off my *ss and fix them.  But I wonder about the cabinets.  I cannot find much about restoring that part.  Do you know any resources about fixing up wooden radio cabinets?

Dec 9, 2009. 3:48 PMfender-electric-guitar says:
hey ke4mcl i just got a philco model 42-380. Fixed it and turned on speaker and on high it was not very loud ,any help?
Dec 9, 2009. 5:52 PMfender-electric-guitar says:
hey not the tube checked it and not the best but works lots of static have to put hand on antenna by the way what is a speck resister? :(
Dec 10, 2009. 1:47 PMfender-electric-guitar says:
thanks i'll check right now i'll let you now in a short time! :)
Sep 11, 2009. 10:33 AMusarnie1 says:
Good instructions! I recently redid a 1940 Canadian made Westinghouse, model 556A, All American Five tube radio that I purchased at an estate sale in California for $1.00. Since it was Canadian made, the schematic was not available on Nostalgia Air's web site. I obtained the correct schematic from a Canadian web site, www.JustRadios.com, for $7.00. The big difference between the Canadian AA5 Radio and an American made AA5 model of a similar type, is that the Canadian set used a 35L6 Audio tube and an 88 ohm, 2 watt, voltage dropping resistor, used in the filament string to drop an additional 13 volts, so the total voltage dropped on all the filaments nearly equalled the AC line voltage. The American made AA5 sets used a 50L6 audio tube without needing a voltage dropping filament resistor. Since the voltage dropping resistor on my Canadian made AA5 was previously destroyed, I decided to remove what was left of it and replace the 35L6 tube with a 50L6 tube that I purchased on ebay. I also decided to do some re-engineering to make this set operate safer. I removed the original 2-wire non-polarized rubber covered AC cord and plug and replaced it with a modern molded plastic covered 2-wire polarized AC cord and plug. I used my multi-meter, switched to continuity, to make sure that the neutral wire was connected to the chassis ground and not the hot wire! This eliminated the possibility of having a hot chassis and possibly receiving a shock! I also repositioned the on-off switch so it was now on the hot side of the AC input voltage instead of on the chassis ground side. My Canadian set uses a 6.3v pilot lamp connected in parallel with 1/2 of the rectifier's filament. As a safety precaution, so as to not burn out the 35Z5 rectifier tube's filament in the event the pilot lamp ever burnt out, I connected a 220 ohm, 1/4 watt, resistor in parallel with the pilot lamp's filament. Since current always flows through the path of least resistance, the pilot lamp did not loose any of its' brightness! I replaced all the paper covered capacitors and both of the electrolytic capacitors with modern ones. After I completed all the repairs and modifications, I plugged in the set and attempted to turn it on. Nothing happened! I unplugged the set and connected my multi-meter, switched to continuity, across the terminals of the AC plug, turned the on-off switch to on and I did not have any continuity! I determined that my 68 year old on-off switch was stuck in the open position, as I previously checked the filaments on each of the tubes and they were all good! I corrected the problem by spraying WD-40 into the cover of the on-off switch and worked the switch back and forth about a dozen times. Presto! Now I had continuity! I then plugged the set back into the AC outlet and turned the switch on. After about 15 to 20 seconds the radio came alive! It worked and I was able to tune in many radio stations. The only problem remaining was with a 56 ohm, one watt resistor, that was very hot to the touch. I replaced it with another resistor of the same ohm value and I increased the wattage of the new resistor to seven watts. The new resistor operated much cooler! While I was tuning and listening to the vintage radio, I found a radio station that played music from the 1940's. It was almost like going back in time!
Aug 13, 2009. 9:36 AMdesertdog says:
Excellent and informative. I can now feel more confident about purchasing a used radio knowing that it may be repaired. I also liked the "natural selection" comment. Whatever happened to personal responsibility.
Aug 2, 2009. 9:40 PMMarshal Banana says:
If you find a model number for the radio, do a search online for it. You might find schematics, parts info, parts, tuning info, etc. An example of such sites is http://oldtech.net/RCA.html
Jul 31, 2009. 10:21 AMtundrawolf says:
Hello, I have a couple of old tube radios and tube guitar amplifiers (All vintage). They all work very well, and all the capacitors look good (original) and don't leak. Do I have to replace them? There's an awful lot of them.
Apr 2, 2009. 2:33 AMnickbuls says:
tube radios are soo cool. they look and sound better then transistor radios. I'm now building one at home. It has a ECF80 tube with a triode and pentode in one tube.
Jun 18, 2009. 10:30 AMusarnie1 says:
I would appreciate if you would tell me how you were able to add a schematic to your reply on this post.
Jun 19, 2009. 4:24 AMnickbuls says:
just copy the picture and paste it in the reply box
Apr 14, 2009. 8:57 AMfender-electric-guitar says:
Hi ke4mcl, I have a tube radio at home.I am not sure what time period it is from(I think 1940's-50's).All I know is that it is a German Hornyphon radio. You access the chases from the bottom of the cabinet when you unscrew the two screws. It has five trioiron radio tubes two have EF89 the rest are all different EZ80,EL84 and EM84. Also one that is from different place I can't read the words all gone other then ECH81.IThe radio has four Frequencies lw,mw,swI and swII.One suggestion take the radio tubes out so you don't bump or break them.Also my radio is on this site search for Tube the title will be Tube Radio by icoaster. Bye P.S.I gave you five out of five:)
Feb 16, 2009. 2:10 AMw8znx says:
well done dit dit
Feb 10, 2009. 3:52 AMtinkernaut says:
Great i'ble!!!! I've had this old Philco I picked up on ebay for a couple of bucks. Now maybe I can get to actually fix it!! Here's an idea: Build a low-power AM transmitter and connect it to an MP3 player playing old time radio shows. Then listen to them on your restored tube radio. Nothing like the ambiance of tubes glowing while listening to Suspense with the lights out. :-)
Jan 13, 2009. 5:34 PMperlpower says:
Something I would personally recommend is instead of plugging it strait in after doing the replacing is to plug it it though a variac to slowly warm up the tubes.
Dec 23, 2008. 7:11 AMCoati says:
Very nicely done,I have an old Motorola five tube that I like to turn on in the evening while eating dinner.The glow of the tubes and the usual lack of top 40 music on the AM band makes me feel like I am in a different era.Thanks for the info.
Dec 13, 2008. 11:38 AMnewoldradioman says:
Just found this site! Very well done. I can't wait to tear down my old radio and see what happens.
Nov 14, 2008. 4:28 AMjomaro says:
Gee... thanks! I just happen to have one of those in the garage waiting to get fixed! I just didn't know where to start. I do a bit of digital electronics but I feel I'm to far away from "super heterodine" stuff. I'll put another comment and photos when I will get working! Great 'ible!
Nov 8, 2008. 3:06 PMcanerods says:
You covered the process very well. Easy to read and understand. Thanks very much! You may want to add this tip in future: Since speaker cones are very fragile. One way to keep from damaging the paper cone while your working on the radio is to cut a thin cardboard shield and tape it to front of the speaker to protect it. Be sure your tape only contacts the metal frame and your cardboard shield -- not the speaker cone material itself.
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Author:ke4mcl
head geek at the miami space transit planetarium