Step 2: Prepare for soldering

Plug in your soldering iron, and get that board ready for soldering!

First you will need to scratch the enamel coating off of the motherboards traces that you want to solder to. If you are just soldering from solder pad to solder pad, then just skip this step. If you are not, keep on reading, I recommend you continue reading even if you aren't soldering to the traces.

Start at one end of the trace.
Follow the trace and find the end of it as well. It was easy for me because it was fairly wide, this may not always be the case.
After you found the start and the end of the trace, find the spots on the trace where the trace was burned through.
Before and after the burn spot, scratch away some of the enamel coating by taking your exacto (box cutter) knife or screwdriver and scratching at the trace until you see silver or a gold/ bronze color, DONT scratch any more, you have now made a spot you can solder to. repeat this for every spot you need to. take into account any spots where the trace passes through to the other side of the board, make sure that these stay connected too.

On to the next step.
I agree with "codyg102". If possible drill or remove piece of the old trace on board because if there is still tiny little voltage leakage at burned path, it might make your board unstable even if you added cables.
<p>Did a similar fix on a GA-EX58-UD4P motherboard. It was one of the most expensive boards on the market, when it came out and I got lucky to acquire a broken one almost for free. </p><p>One of the traces was ripped through when the previous owner probably tried to move it to another case, in addition to having a damaged LGA1366 socket pins(~20% of them were bent!).</p><p>I've fixed traces myself and secured soldered area with a drop of hot glue, re-aligned most of the pins by hand. One of the local service centers fixed remaining pins(either bent beyond recovery or broken in half) for an equivalent of $20.</p><p>Result: a fully working hi-end mobo which I'm using while writing these lines!</p>
Very useful 'ible. I made a similar repair to the ECU (on-board computer) of an '87 Ford Ranger 4X4 I used to own when I discovered that a new one was way over $300 and a scrapyard wanted almost $200 for a used one.<br><br>One thing I did a little different was to drill VERY SMALL holes through the trace on either side of the damage (after carefully removing a small area of the coating to create a &quot;pad&quot;). That way I could put the wire through from the top side of the board and make the repair &quot;cleaner&quot;. If you elect to go this route, I suggest doing this from the trace side of the board and exercising EXTREME caution so you don't do more damage;make sure you don't drill into any components on the top!<br><br>I had the truck for half-a-dozen years after I made the repair and it was still going strong when I finally sold it for parts (the body was shot and not worth repairing at that point). Must have gotten something right... :-)
why not jump the fan with the power supply?
this way i dont need to worry about extra wires dangling around inside the case, plus the PCI slots werent totally operational without the 12v line that burnt out.

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Bio: I like to modify things, make things, and modify the things i make. im no math whiz or someone with perfect grammar, but i am ... More »
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