How to Fix Your Sharp 56DR650 With Color Wheel Issues


Introduction: How to Fix Your Sharp 56DR650 With Color Wheel Issues

This will explain how to disassemble and repair a Sharp 56DR650 DLP television if it has a malfunctioning color wheel. I was looking to buy a replacement color wheel, so I took apart the TV to see if I would actually be able to replace the color wheel myself. In taking it apart, I noticed that the little piece of glass was dirty, it had a semi-opaque whitish film on it, so I cleaned it with Windex. I took the color wheel out, and noticed that it too was a little dirty, so I cleaned it (again with Windex, probably a bad idea, but nothing bad has happened yet) . While cleaning the color wheel, I noticed that the outside of the motor housing had the same filmy substance on it, so I cleaned that too. That is the important part, and is what fixed the tv. I have only done this to my TV, so I can't guarantee that it will work for you.

As always, this is at your own risk. I am not responsible if you ruin your TV or injure yourself in any way.

Step 1: Remove the Back of the TV

Unplug everything from your TV before starting, especially power.

I have color coded all the images:
All red arrows are screws that should be removed
All Green arrows are cables that should be unplugged
The 3 blue arrows point to the orange rubber bumpers (they are semi difficult to peel off)
The Xs are screws or cables that do not need to be removed.

Note the 2 screws in the upper corners of the recessed AV Input area
Once all the screws are removed, this part should come off fairly easily, but the power cable still goes through it, so slide it along that and set it off to the side. Note that there are 3 different screw types here: two small ones from the AV Input area, 10 from the sides and top, and 4 slightly longer ones from the bottom.

Step 2: Prepare to Slide Out the Light Engine (but Do Not Slide It Out Yet)

This picture shows the right half of the TV when viewed from behind. The 2 screws on the flexible black piece in the upper right should be removed so that the cable in step 3 can be easily removed.
The metal support close to the center of the TV will come off, but the switch will still be attached, so I carefully leaned it against the AV inputs.

Step 3: Unplug 2 Cables Before Sliding Out the Light Engine (do Not Slide It Out Yet)

The cable in the upper right should be removed prior to sliding the Light Engine. It is behind the flexible black plastic, which I gently bent out of the way to remove the cable. The cable in the lower left goes to the color wheel, and does not need to be removed now, but I didn't think it was necessary to have another picture showing this when I could do both in one picture. The cable next to the flat ribbon cable does not need to be removed, we will unplug the other end instead.

Step 4: More Cables and Screws to Remove Before Sliding Out the Light Engine

You must remove these 3 cables and 1 screw before sliding out the Light Engine. I missed this screw when I did this, and ended up having to reshape the metal piece it goes into.

Step 5: You May Now Slide Out the Light Engine, But Do So Slowly, As There Are Still More Cables You Need to Unplug.

This picture is a strange orientation, the left side of the image is toward the back of the TV and the right side is toward the front. This view is with the Light Engine slid out slightly, and is from the right side of the TV looking toward the left. There is only 1 cable you need to unplug here. Once you unplug this cable, you may slide out the Light Engine, but again, do so slowly because the power cables to the light are still plugged in, and I could not find an easy way to disconnect them. Since I could do everything I needed to with them still attached, I didn't bother to remove them.

Step 6: Remove the Cover Over the Color Wheel.

There are 4 screws to remove here, then the cover should come off and you will be looking at your color wheel. DO NOT TOUCH the transparent part of color wheel, as the oils on your skin may damage it (I don't know if they will or not, but better safe than sorry).

Step 7: Remove the Color Wheel.

There are 3 screws and a cable that needs to e unplugged. These screws are very hard to remove, so be careful. The glass in the upper right of the color wheel housing may also be cleaned. Once you remove the 3 screws, you may gently pull the color wheel out. I pulled on the metal part near where the cable plugs in.

Step 8: Clean the Color Wheel

I used Windex, and have not had any problems, but I would recommend that you use distilled water. When working with electronics, spray or pour the cleaner onto the paper towel, not the electronics themselves. The part you have to clean is the shiny silver ring (which hopefully is not so shiny right now) between the gold ring and the base of the motor. WARNING: do not use tuner cleaner, or spray anything into the motor. The best way to clean the motor would be to put some distilled water on a paper towel and rub the color wheel and ring with that.

The reason this works is because the color wheel spins at 10800rpm, and in order for the colors to show up properly, it must spin at exactly the right speed, and the TV must also be able to determine where it is in it's rotation, I.E. what color it is shining light through at a given moment. The TV does this by shining a light on the shiny silver part and checking whether it reflects back or not. There is a black sticker that does not reflect light, and when it shines light on the sticker, it no longer reflects, and the TV knows that one rotation has gone by, and what point it is at in its rotation. After much use, my color wheel got this milky white film on the silver part, and the TV would work for a little while, but once it go to a certain temperature in the color wheel housing, the film became less transparent and more opaque, thus preventing the light from reflecting, and confusing the hell of out the TV, and when it tries to compensate for the anomaly, it really distorts the picture. I just wiped of this film, and it has been fine ever since.

Step 9: Put the Color Wheel Back In.

This part is semi difficult. You have to peel off the orange rubber washers carefully, put them back into the color wheel support, then put the color wheel back in. I tried to use needle nosed pliers, but ended up ripping one of the bumpers slightly. I ended up just using my fingers, as that seemed to work best. Peel them off, and fit them back into the color wheel support. They should overlap the top and bottom of the metal on the color wheel. The screws should only touch the orange bumpers when you put the color wheel back in.

Step 10: Put the TV Back Together.

Just follow steps 1 to 7 in reverse order to put your TV back together, and enjoy your newly repaired TV.



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    Good Dat Everyone! I also have sharp tv projector type 56DR650, it is very good to use and sound is amazing, but one time when i turned on my tv the picture was adjusted in the bottom part and the PIP was unable to use. Please anyone ? Please help, THanks

    It seems the newest post here is quite old. I was looking on craigslist and found 65DR650 with broken color wheel. The ad said the color wheel bearing was shot. I have read on some posts it is a bronze bushing rather than a bearing. Where does the wheel rub against the frame to cause so much friction? Has anyone tried an dielectric grease as a bearing/bushing lubricant? If the wheel rubs the enclosure at some point is there a way it can be isolated from rubbing? I saw where someone has a dust problem. Is it possible to add an external fan/filter assembly to the ventilation openings? What goes out must come in. If the vents are air exhaust only, there must be somewhere that air in taken in to cool the components. If the opposite and the vents are air intake, attaching three computer fans with a simple filter (like on A/C units) could be adapted. I have one I bought on ebay for about $6.00. You can get the A/C filter from a 5000BTU window unit from Sears and screw it over the computer fans' intake side. One poster said the wheel assembly came apart in their hand. If you are still around could you please let me know more? It may be a matter of re-gluing with better glue. Hope these questions get answered. I'm pretty sure if these problems are the reason why this unit fails, I can fix it. The cleaning tips appear to be good. The "film" is either caused by exposure to dust or the result of particulates from the friction problem in either the bushing/bearing, wheel itself rubbing the enclosure surface or dust contamination. Did any of the cleaning poster's notice which of these the film came from? Has anyone tried to clean the film with Q-tips and Alcohol? I use that on my car's windshield rather than Windex that leaves a dust collecting film of its own.

    thank you so much, i did this to a mitsubishi projection screen tv, the color wheel had a light white film over it, along with the lil square black sticker, cleaned it, tv took like an hour or two to warm up and it worked perfect. it was dumpster salvage. installed a new lamp and done this to the color wheel, me and my friends are now playing games on a 70" and partying hard!!

    Thanks for your informative post. I took things 1 step further because my color wheel stopped working.

    See link below.

    9 replies

    Nice job! Is there a bearing in the color wheel? If not, awesome, then I can take my tv apart again and do what you say in your guide, because it's kinda loud now (but still works flawlessly).

    I think it is a brass bushing and not a bearing. The first time I put it back together it was pretty loud. Thats why I took it apart again and used the lubricant. Don't use anything that might expand when it gets hot because it might cause a pressure difference and pop the shaft of the wheel out while it is running.

    Good Luck.


    I have removed the color wheel, cleaned and replaced. First Lubed it with the non-expansive Bones Bearing speed cream. It worked beautifully for about 10 hours. Then the same noise and green negative pix. What do you offer and for how much?

    It might take several cleanings but at this point you might consider replacing the wheel and motor assembly if it's affordable.

    Thanks for your response. YHS1987 and adcurtin did a great job instructing. I just took TV apart for 3rd time. I'm a pro now:) Thanks to your instructions. Not too bad for a blond woman of 64. So there was nothing dirty. Checked it all. I used a little more Bones than last time, and it's working now. No hum or any noise. Bones says cream, but it's really thin. I think it just wears down quickly. Is there a non-expandsive grease-type lube you could point me to? I know I'm going to be doing this again soon. I got an estimate of $1300 for new color-wheel/engine assembly. Boo! I could buy a new TV for that. This was my Dad's TV. He passed away and the last thing they played on it was a DVD of all pix we had with him. He was 92. Then TV went kaput, and I got it. I don't want a new TV:( Just want to fix this one. I know it's the friction of metal on metal that's causing this, otherwise the lube wouldn't work. I think the magnet draws dirt, metal frags, etc. in to bushing and then melts it with the high temps at 100800 RPM for the color wheel. The black stuff I took out was rock-hard, with metal frags in it. Any ideas about lube. I'm researching Dupont Krytox. Thanks so much for your help:))

    It sounds like your set was much more worn then mine. I haven't had to take mine apart since using the Bones the first time. The lubricant part of this repair is a double edged sword. The design of the color wheel requires a lubricant over time but the lubricant itself can attract debris that can gum up the workings of the bushing. TV's attract dust by design. The high voltage and static attracts the dust from it's surroundings adding to the issue.

    As far as a different lubricant, I'm not sure. I used the Bones Speed Creme because it was on hand and is good for high RPM. Whatever lubricant you decide on, make sure it doesn't break down and become a liquid that could spray the inside of your TV or become conductive. You also want to make sure it doesn't expand and build up pressure which could force the shaft of the color wheel out of the bushing which would destroy the wheel and anything else it comes into contact with.

    I'm sure your dad would be proud of what you have accomplished in this repair. I know I was reluctant my first time I did this and I have worked on many other sets in the past.

    Nice Job!!

    I followed adcurtin and your suggestions. There was a mass of hard black gunk including pieces of metal at bottom of wheel shaft. Cleaned that out. Lubed with the Bones Bearing Speed Cream. Put it back together, and it worked beautifully for about 10 hrs. Then started the same noise and green negative pix. About ready to take apart again, but now what?


    Nice job on the instructions - when followed to the letter, my television's picture returned to pristine condition. I still have the 'color wheel hum', but at least the colors are back to normal. Thank you very much! MWS

    Thanks for laying it out you did a great Job

    Nice job. I have to admit, this is quite dangerous, but still, this is also amazing, nice work.

    4 replies

    Dangerous how so? Yes I risk ruining a TV that works some of the time, but that's basically it.

    Well, you are definitely smarter than me making stuff like this, so I'm not exactly sure, but I think that opening a T.V. can be dangerous with the toxins and stuff.

    No there's not really any toxins, but CRT TVs have large capacitors that can store electricity and kill you, but this isn't a CRT, so its relatively safe, so long as its unplugged.

    just a couple of facts 1. You cannot get killed by the charge of a crt. It has very low Amperage. Amperage is what kills you. If you get across the ac line with it plugged in it is a different story it is like sticking you finger into a light socket. 2. There are no toxins in TV's Crt's have lead inside the tube and that is why you can't just throw them away. 3 You can damage the color wheel by spraying windex onto the wheel it self The probable cause of the noise is the motor it self. Use old fashion tuner cleaner to spray into the motor . Windex on a non abrasive cloth will work for the wheel itself but be very careful the wheel is glued together and can fall apart in you hands. At this point Sharp is not selling a color wheel for the unit. I have found one on eBay. You have to send yours in and they will send you a refurbished wheel Good Luck I am going to do one today