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Swamp coolers work ok until it reaches 94 degrees. At that point, they stop cooling as well, because the pump can not get enough water on the pads to keep them wet. So by increasing the amount of water going to the pads by 50% the unit cools the house down faster, and the pads don't dry out.
Step 1Replace the blue pads with good old aspen
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The blue sponge pads do not really absorb the water very well and do not cool well at all. So pitch them and replace them with the low tech, sustainable aspen pads. the aspen wood actually absorbes water in additon to creating a curtain of water which makes the swamper cool better. It does get messy at the end of the year but it is worth it. These pads are also cheaper.
So you could check that. Check to see if the motor is receiving current.
Hi all,
I live in Melbourne Australia where we have extremely hot and dry summers and as a result I have done a heap of modification and testing of evaporative coolers or Swamp coolers as you call them. My greatest success came from the use of celdex which is the media commonly found in rooftop home /commercial coolers.
It is a specially treated corrugated cardboard which remains rigid, is highly water absorbent, has much greater surface area than aspen and it doesn’t rot and smell like a swamp. The design and angle of the corrugations/ channels forces the air to foil or roll up and down through the material rather than a straight horizontal flow though creating a much cooler and less restricted and more directed airflow.
I recommend being careful about airflow restriction as the motor/fan relies on flow for cooling and not all portable coolers have a thermal cut-out. I would not recommend multiple layers of aspen for that reason. Celdex is easy to cut to fit and is somewhat self cleaning in operation.
Filtration of the water going through the pump and spider is recommended because evaps filter a lot of dust from the air which ends up in the water reservoir and blocking spreader/spider holes. Flywire or fairly fine mesh around the pump does ok.
Bigger or more pumps will help to a point but the main key is the surface area of the media. I get superb performance from my coolers after mods but the only downfall is they use at least twice as much water. But this goes to prove that I am getting at least twice the performance from them as the more you evaporate the more you are cooling. A friend was seriously fooled into thinking they were a refrigerated air conditioners! I think they need float valves connected to the garden hose as I got sick of trying to keeping them topped up. I also experimented with a solar powered evap cooler made by fitting a small cooler with an auto thermo fan and 12 volt bilge pump from a boat running from 80 watt solar panel. One final note is to the importance of both ventilating the moist air from the opposite side of the room from the cooler and providing the back of the cooler with fresh dry air from outside. This helps keep internal humidity down so your sweat can also evaporate. Hope this is a help for all to stay as cool as I and use little or no power to do so.
http://www.bonaire.com.au/evaporativecooling/range.aspx
I live here in Las Vegas Nevada, And this is the first time I've ever seen this type of media. The celdex is very efficient, wets completely, and allows for good air-flow even when salts are built-up. There was the added boon of cutting a 23x23" hole in the wall to install it, as I chose not to mount it in the windo!!!! RRRRRRR!!
Very nice instructable.
Would it not be a good thing to put on on the ground under shade in a Hot Dry climate ?
I purchased a complete second pump, basket, tubing, and identical spider and essentially "doubled up" the water flow to the pads by zip tying the second spider legs to the first. Now the pads stay wet when the temps are in the 90s, the air smells cleaner and the small amount of extra electricity for the second pump is worth the added efficiency. The guy at the electrical/plumbing shop where I bought everything thought it was an ingenious idea. Kudos to the author!
It's worth noting though that many swamp coolers have the water pump outlet wired up to a 1.6 Amp or less fuse. (This is in *addition* to your breaker box.) I found this out the hard way, when I installed a 1.2 amp cooler (replacement) pump to go with my .7 Amp purge pump... If you double-up, see if you have such a fuse, and check the amps on your pumps.
Has anyone had moisture problems with the usage of an outlet splitter in a cooler? I was afraid that a non-weatherproof splitter might corrode, or worse, short out. It's the only thing stopping me from trying this out.
James
http://www.overclockyourcpu.co.uk
My problem is, I do not know if this would be the most efficient way to cool a 3 bedroom apartment in Boston. I do not know much about what the humidity is here. I have read that swamp coolers don't work well in some areas because of the humidity. So my question is. Does anyone think that a swamp cooler in a large three bedroom apartment would be a better investment than maybe a portable air conditioner, if I am living in Boston, Ma. If anyone could point me in the right direction, I would appreciate it. I am just a poor student, and every buck I can save helps.