Step 1: Making the forge

FYI<br><br>I would not forge REBAR...Rebar is usually a &quot;NO SPEC&quot; STEEL...that means it has a broad range of chemistry...that includes LEAD, it can have lead in the mix and the lead will come out in the forging process...and it will be inhaled by you...<br><br>the same goes steel that is galvanized....
As a metallurgical engineer in training I strongly suggest Staying away from materials that you don&quot;t Know of chemistry Also if heat strengthening is desired I suggest using a Critical cooling curve diagram, or a equilibrium phase diagram for your material to achieve correct temps for hardening <br>
<p>What about using steel from leaf springs on trucks?</p>
<p>I object to the idea that &quot;a leafblower will not work&quot;. I have used a leaf blower for this sort of thing several times, and it works great. You just need to make sure the air intakes are not blocked (set it on its side). If its too much air, just set it a little further away from the furnace/forge/grill air intake.</p>
This is so amazing. I'm going to start trying to forge weapons and I searched all over the Internet for this exact thing. <br> Thank you.
The Big Box hardware stores rent tools and therefore have worn out jack hammer bits that are high grade steel.
Rivet thy tongs at the joint, and your hand shall be FREE!
This tutorial is perfect for me, I keep seeing all these complicated or specialized coal forge tutorials, and do they frustrate me!<br>But this is awesome and super simple. I'll probably make this in my backyard today!<br><br>Kickin' job man, hope you keep making more tutorials on this kinda stuff.<br><br>BTW did you ever make a tutorial that was a little more in depth on making the tongs?
First, let me say, Welcome to the Big And Black metalworking family.<br>You'll never look at jewelry instructables again :-)<br><br><br>Unless you're making camping stakes, avoid rebar.<br> Most of that stuff is LITERALLY junk steel. They take a random mix of steels and irons, that aren't used for anything else, mix it all up, turn it into bars, and roll it out with the ridge pattern.<br><br>There ARE different grades of the stuff, some of which are very nice, but the normal stuff used in concrete construction... leave it for construction industry.<br><br>&quot;2. Leather gloves. The thicker, the better. I used some welding ones I had, and boy, do they help prevent burns a lot!&quot;<br><br>I use Gas Tungsten Arc(aka TIG) welding gloves for most smithing.<br>The leather is thick enough to protect from sparks, and most sharp steel, but thin enough to give you a good feel for what you're doing.<br><br>Yes, leather gloves are NICE to have. But don't rely on them for protecting you from burns. All they really do is DELAY the burn. If the metal is too hot to hold with your bare hand, either leave it attacked to the longer stock, and cut off LAST, or, use tongs.<br>These safer practices, combined WITH gloves should make for many years of Happy Hammering.

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Bio: I'm 21, and I have a profound interest in electronics, lasers and Geology.
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