Picture of How to EASILY forge Steel and iron...
If for some reason, you've needed some sort of tool, or some heavy object made of steel or iron...and you've gone online, searched for that tool, and realized how expensive it was?

Forging steel and iron isn't actually all that hard, you only need a few things to do it properly.

1. A vice of some sort. My granddad happened to have one he doesn't use. You need to make sure it's properly anchored in some way, otherwise you won't be able to bend the steel very well. I just put some heavy bricks next to it to prevent it from moving around.

2. Leather gloves. The thicker, the better. I used some welding ones I had, and boy, do they help prevent burns a lot!

3. Safety Glasses - These's protect your eyes from flying embers from your forge.

4. Bricks of some kind -- We had some fire pit bricks lying around, so I decided to use those.

5. Charcoal  -- Any type of charcoal will do, but briquettes are not the best. Try to get lump charcoal if you can. YOU can also use wood pieces as well, you just need to have a fire going already for it to work properly. I tried it today, and it worked great.

6. An air blower -- You can use a hairdryer, an air mattress pump, basically anything that'll blow air pretty decently. A leafblower will not work. 

7. (optional) A Face shield- - - I found that this isn't really NEEDED, but, it'll protect your face from little singes from embers, and also protects a bit from radiant heat from the fire. 

8. An Anvil, if you are blessed with having one. You'll need this if you need to flatten out your workpiece.

9. A hammer/sledgehammer. A small one will work just fine. 

Also as a word of warning, I'M not responsible for anything bad you may do with this information. Don't burn down your house...don't be stupid, and learn, before you go outside. You'll messing with temperatures above 1500 degrees Fahrenheit. BE CAREFUL.

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lowtechlou3 years ago

I would not forge REBAR...Rebar is usually a "NO SPEC" STEEL...that means it has a broad range of chemistry...that includes LEAD, it can have lead in the mix and the lead will come out in the forging process...and it will be inhaled by you...

the same goes steel that is galvanized....
As a metallurgical engineer in training I strongly suggest Staying away from materials that you don"t Know of chemistry Also if heat strengthening is desired I suggest using a Critical cooling curve diagram, or a equilibrium phase diagram for your material to achieve correct temps for hardening

What about using steel from leaf springs on trucks?

AJMansfield11 months ago

I object to the idea that "a leafblower will not work". I have used a leaf blower for this sort of thing several times, and it works great. You just need to make sure the air intakes are not blocked (set it on its side). If its too much air, just set it a little further away from the furnace/forge/grill air intake.

This is so amazing. I'm going to start trying to forge weapons and I searched all over the Internet for this exact thing.
Thank you.
Tim Temple2 years ago
The Big Box hardware stores rent tools and therefore have worn out jack hammer bits that are high grade steel.
Rivet thy tongs at the joint, and your hand shall be FREE!
Anonbonbon3 years ago
This tutorial is perfect for me, I keep seeing all these complicated or specialized coal forge tutorials, and do they frustrate me!
But this is awesome and super simple. I'll probably make this in my backyard today!

Kickin' job man, hope you keep making more tutorials on this kinda stuff.

BTW did you ever make a tutorial that was a little more in depth on making the tongs?
ironsmiter3 years ago
First, let me say, Welcome to the Big And Black metalworking family.
You'll never look at jewelry instructables again :-)

Unless you're making camping stakes, avoid rebar.
Most of that stuff is LITERALLY junk steel. They take a random mix of steels and irons, that aren't used for anything else, mix it all up, turn it into bars, and roll it out with the ridge pattern.

There ARE different grades of the stuff, some of which are very nice, but the normal stuff used in concrete construction... leave it for construction industry.

"2. Leather gloves. The thicker, the better. I used some welding ones I had, and boy, do they help prevent burns a lot!"

I use Gas Tungsten Arc(aka TIG) welding gloves for most smithing.
The leather is thick enough to protect from sparks, and most sharp steel, but thin enough to give you a good feel for what you're doing.

Yes, leather gloves are NICE to have. But don't rely on them for protecting you from burns. All they really do is DELAY the burn. If the metal is too hot to hold with your bare hand, either leave it attacked to the longer stock, and cut off LAST, or, use tongs.
These safer practices, combined WITH gloves should make for many years of Happy Hammering.