If you know any arborists, you will notice they look up a lot. There is a reason for that - arborists, unlike most other mortals, are very interested in things falling on them. So should you be. If you're about to throw a rope in a tree, have a good look at the tree first. If there are any dead or broken branches up there, get a professional arborist to make the tree safe!
In the USA (or anywhere else) I recommend you use an arborist who is a member of the International Society of Arborists (ISA) or the local national body - in New Zealand, NZAA, in Australia, ISAAC etc.
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Signing UpStep 1What you need
Have a look at this related link How to Climb a Tree (with prussiks!) - I am working on another instructable on tree climbing too :)
To set a rope in a tree you will need the following:
A rope
You need a rope twice as long as the branch is high (ie if the branch is 12m off the ground you need at least 24m of rope). You'll figure out why. Do NOT compromise on the quality of this rope - your life depends on it. Go for a polyester or poly-blend rope that has sufficient break-test to support your life. The IDEAL rope will be a rated, arborist's climbing line which will have a break test of around 5400lbs or 2700kg. There is plenty of yachting rope around that is strong enough - it just isn't break-tested. Polypropylene rope is also very strong - it's just a bitch to work with. OK for a swing, but not for climbing on.
A throw-line
This can be a commercial arborist's throwline (like Zing-it) or monofilament nylon or even sash cord or string. Basically, a thin, slippery cord that you can throw over a high branch. Good-quality throwline is easier to throw and less frustrating, and not highly-expensive, but you can cut costs here without compromising your safety.
A throwball
The best throwballs are made by commercial arborist's suppliers. Arguably the best throwballs are made by Andy Harrison in NZ (aaharrison@maxnet.co.nz) and you can order them via e-mail. They're not expensive, and they work really well. Throwballs are filled with lead shot so they're soft but fairly heavy.
If you're a cheapskate you can throw any heavy object you like over the branch. I don't care if you choose to throw a piece of rail or an anvil - just remember when it comes down it can hurt you. I am not responsible for damage that you inflict to your neighbour's glasshouse or Porsche.
A helmet
Wear a cycle helmet, a skate helmet, or a climbing helmet. Then the anvil falling on your head won't hurt as much.
A cambium saver
You don't really need a cambium saver. But if you're climbing in a tree and you want to set a rope, use one. It saves the bark, and it makes it easier to climb the tree, and it's easier on your rope. I'm just showing you the right way to do it. I appeal to your deep-green moral conscience.
A cambium saver is a rated load sling with two rated metal rings at either end (pictured). You can improvise one from a load sling or a loop of rope and carabiners, but make sure that everything you use is rated.
Gear advice - never scrimp and save on climbing gear. Find the best price for the good stuff. There are heaps of commercial websites. Start at www.petzl.com and work outwards.
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In small pipe we use crumpled cellophane and a vacuum to suck the cellophane which carries a string and the string pulls wire or cable. This can take very great forces at times and is nasty work.
The two rings on your cambium saver seem like they would take some severe drops quite often. Sure, you're probably working over grass more often than over rock, since trees tend not to grow on the rocks, but still... Did your training as an arborist mention this at all? Is it a question of materials? Most rock climbing gear seems to be aluminium, what about your arborist gear?
I was a tree lopper for quite a dew years and I used a similar but different method for getting a line 50 metres up into the top of the really tall gum trees we have here in Australia.
I used a sling shot to fire a lead fishing weight attached to a fishing line. I shot this over any branch or fork that I wanted to use and then attached a clothes line rope to the end that I had shot through the branches. I pulled this through and back down to the ground (using the method of attachment that you specified) and then attached the heavy line to the clothes line and pulled that through the tree as well.
I used this method for quite a few years and it allowed me to get far higher than I could have done with a throw line.
Strange as it may sound, I found that the best rubber to use to make the sling shot was several linked large rubber bands. The surgical rubber that you can buy for "proper" slingshots was too strong and did not allow the accuracy that was achievable with the lighter rubber bands.
The beauty of this method is that even if you miss and get caught up in the branches, the most you have lost is a lead weight and a bit of fishing line. But then again, I never missed. :)
I tie a 1/4" rope to a trailer hitch ball and toss it over a branch.
Then I use that rope to pull up one end of my 3/4" X 140' tree falling rope.
I pull the end down and tie it around it's self Then I pull it tight.
Yes, You MUST watch where you throw a trailer hitch ball.
BTW, I made that little tree falling rope. 8>))
Here's why you should always back an ascender with a fail-safe (like a prusik)
http://www.treebuzz.com/forum/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=28587&Main=28524#Post28587
http://www.isa-arboriculture.org/content/cm000181.htm
Warning - second link may prove disturbing!
I use an ascender but i back it up with a prusik as a safety knot. Also, prusik loops are real cheap compared to ascenders... <always read the label> One of the good things about buying Petzl products is they give you cool little folders full of Awful Accidents. So at least you know how you're going to die if you get it wrong..... (pardon my sense of humour)
you got me a little excited there