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We love 3D printers. They can make DIY'ers life so easy. They can also make us really disapointed. Here are some tips on how to improve your 3D print...
The UP! looks good,is easy to assemble and cost less than 3 000 $. You will find all the informations on how to get it started with the manual below. ...
Your first 3D printing tests will most likely look like that : Here are some mistares you might have done.
Your nozzle is too high. You should barely be able to slip a business card between the nozzle and the printer's table.
If your object doesn't stick to the surface while printing, it's because your surface isn't hot enough. You should always preheat the surface before t...
Still doesn't stick? Maybe your surface isn't prepared. I tried four different things : PC Board : It will make your table higher (witch makes it eas...
You probably were drunk when you sent this one...
If you notice that the layers aren't aligned, make sure that the screw holding the nozzle to the frame is tight enough.
Sometimes, the nozzle will accidently stick to the part while printing and melt a big ball of ABS like this. Make sure that your surface is complettly...
There wasn't enough material left in the spool. This one is predictable, but happens quite often.
The part is too high above the table, resulting in an excess of support material. Just move the part closer using MOVE.
Now, if your part still doesn't stick to the surface, you will need to build a temperature box. This box is designed to keep the heat around the part ...
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long story short It had something to do with the update for mac computers, I put a windows computer on it and it runs perfectly.
Firstly, suggesting a business card as a nozzle height setting gauge is a bad idea. I just measured some business cards and they range from 0.2mm to over 0.4mm. A doubled-over sheet of normal-weight printer paper tends to be around 0.2mm, which is about what you want the platform initial height clearance to be.
If your prints are not adhering to perfboard it is because your platform initial height is not set properly. It has nothing to do with the platform heater, which is to help reduce ABS warpage. True, ABS warpage can cause lift on large flat parts, but the platform heater does not affect adhesion per se.
The best way to see if your initial height adjustment is correct is to look at the first layer of the raft as it's being deposited. Most of the first layer should be getting pushed into the perfboard holes, not sitting on top of the perfboard. Don't worry about the holes being full of plastic from previous prints - the new print will re-melt the old stuff and it will weld together (an exception to this would be when printing PLA onto perfboard that's full of ABS. It's probably a good idea to keep separate boards for the two materials for this reason).
A heated enclosure can indeed help with warpage and delamination/splits, but the design shown here could result in overheating of the electronics, which in the Up! are contained in the printer's base. A better design would enclose the build volume but not the electronics enclosure, and ensure plenty of ventilation for the electronics.
But there is not that many left.