2 x 12 volt plugs,
1 x 5 volt usb plug and
2 x 120 volt ac plugs.
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You will need a power inverter. I got mine as a present so I don't know what it cost. luckily it had pop out plugs because I could not find cool ones at the hardware store. It also had a 5 volt usb plug which I thought would be cool to use.
All vehicles are different but you will need tools to get behind the dashboard plus whatever you are mounting the plugs to.
You will need wire and connectors to attach to the battery and the from the hidden inverter to the plugs. Be sure to use appropriate gauges for what current load you are expecting.
You will also need some inline fuses and a 12 volt extension plug. The one I got had two outlets side by side.
I used a drill, an angle grinder, a jigsaw some sandpaper and some files.
2 small bolts and nuts to mount the panel.
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My only thought is to add more USB's. Seems like everything mobile is going to USB charging. If I get around to doing mine I'll let you know how it turned out.
acutually i do have another problem with this... it wont fit in my car :P
What I might have done differently:
I would have been inclined to leave the inverter box closed (preserving the warranty) and just design a wiring harness that plugged into it and extended the 110VAC and USB connections out to the panel. The only problem with this approach is that your inverter has a push-on/push off switch.
If your inverter had a simple toggle switch, it could be left turned on, and power to the inverter run through a panel switch -- or, perhaps better given the peak power draw, a high-current relay could be controlled by a lower-power switch circuit. An advantage of the latter is that the switch could be fed from accessory, or could be a three-way which tapped either accessory or an always-on circuit, to reduce the risk of leaving the inverter drawing power when it shouldn't and running your battery down. (Same reason dome lights are now three-way, and many headlights go off when -- or shortly after -- key is removed.)
Given the pushbutton... Hm. What happens if the button is held down before/while 12V is applied to the inverter? Would that be enough to cheat it into being externally switchable? If so, rigging something to hold the button down continuously would be easy and -- again -- would probably not void the warranty.
Yeah, the motto here is "If you can't open it you don't own it" -- but if you can find a way to achieve the same result with less work and without having to open it, that's preferable.
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Radioshack and Walmart have carried rubber caps for the 12 volt receptacles, but if you always have something plugged into them, then they would probably be in the way more than useful.. A friend had her accessory fuse start blowing out seconds after replacement and I took her stereo out to check the aftermarket wiring.. I spent at least 90 minutes searching for faults or shorts before she told me that a cellphone charger had fallen apart inside the cigarette lighter socket. A chrome ring from the tip of the charger was still inside the lighter socket and was cooking fuses almost immediately ...... What a hassle that all was . . . Oh well.
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In my Mazda, originally, there was a stereo head-unit at the top of the dash and a seperate CD player unit further down in the dash. The aftermarket stereo all fits in the top location, so the bottom unit's bay as well as the ashtray and cigarette lighter areas further down will be replaced by a single aluminum panel. A new 12 volt outlet with a rubber cover, two 110 outlets, and various toggle switches (for my amplifier, inverter, eventual neon lighting, etc.) will be located in the panel as well.
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Also, I really hate that 'ible's comments do not recognize hard returns ...