I wanted to have my cable modem, Ooma base station (which I use for phone service) and Internet router out of the way in the enclosure. Also in the closet was an existing alarm system and I wanted to move all of its wiring into the same enclosure.
After some research, I settled on the On-Q system from Legrand. It is very modular and has a lot of parts that work together.
Step 1: Parts List
1 x OQEN4250 On-Q Enclosure with Hinged Door, 42 In.
1 x OQ36456902 On-Q Duplex Outlet Kit with Surge Protection
1 x OQ36426601 On-Q Power Strip Module
1 x OQ36490401 On-Q Universal Mount Plate, Full Width
2 x OQ36348601 On-Q 8-Port Network Interface Module
1 x OQCO1000 On-Q 6-Port Phone/Data Module
1 x OQDA1054 On-Q 4-Port Gigabit Router/Switch
1 x OQDA1008 On-Q 8-Port Gigabit Network Switch
2 x OQPW7760 On-Q Power Supply, 12VDC, 18W
1 x OQWP1000WH On-Q Pre-Configured Strap (Phone, Data & Blank), White Color: White
You'll also want a number of Ethernet outlets - I used Cat6 Punch Down Keystone Jacks from Monoprice.
Step 2: Tools
* Utility/Stanley knife - for cutting into drywall and cutting wire sheath
* Drywall saw - for cutting large openings in drywall
* Electric drill and screwdriver
* Assorted screwdrivers
* Electrician's snips
* Wire stripper
* 110 Punchdown tool - I used this one from Monoprice
* Assorted network cables - I got some 1' ones from Fry's for the patch panels and longer ones for testing
* Nylon cable ties - for keeping things neat and out of the way
* Network tester - I used this one from Monoprice and it was well worth it
Step 3: Prepare the Area for the Enclosure
1. Get your wires grouped and out of the way.
2. Your enclosure is going to between two studs. Figure out roughly where it is going to go. In my case, because the enclosure is 42" tall it occupies most of the wall.
3. Use a stud finder and tapping to locate the studs and also use it to look for live wires. In my case, since I was enlarging an existing cutout, the lateral location was pre-determined. I did need to open up the cutout vertically and this is where I ran into a horizontal run of live wires straight behind where I wanted to mount the new enclosure. I used a contractor to relocate that wire run for me.
4. Use the utility knife to start a hole in the drywall and the drywall saw to cut the opening. You may want to cut a small opening first so that you are able to probe the interior of the cavity for wiring.
Step 4: Running Electrical to the Enclosure
Use the duplex receptacle to run line voltage into the enclosure, but keep all line voltage wiring outside the enclosure.
To do so, you'll run the line voltage below the enclosure, so you might want to open up some extra drywall for that.
If you are drilling through studs to run wiring, make sure that you follow local codes, understand whether the stud is load bearing and install a nail guard in front of the stud at the location that the wire is running.
Step 5: Install the Enclosure
The enclosure is attached to the studs using four screws.
Punch outs in the top and bottom let you route wiring as you need to. In my installation, all the RG6 coax (white) enters through the top right opening, all the Cat-5 (yellow, blue and orange) enters through the top middle opening and all the security system cabling enters through the top left opening.
Do not cut the wires - any excess can be pushed into the cavity above the enclosure and it is better to have too much than too little. Once I had about 18" of wire in the enclosure, I tied them together using cable ties and trimmed to the same length to make the next steps easier and neater.
Step 6: Lay Out the Interior Components
Counter-clockwise from top right: 8-port network interface modules (2 of them next to each other), 6-port phone/data module, 4-port router/switch and 8-port switch.
I went Gigabit Ethernet for everything and there are versions that do PoE as well.
1. The video splitter, which is basically one input RG6 coax that feeds 8 RG6 coax outputs.
2. The power strip - this clicks into place towards the bottom of the enclosure (leave enough room to plug it into the receptacle at the bottom!)
3. The full width tray - this clicks into place and I placed it above the power strip. It will be where the cable modem and Ooma are placed.
Step 7: Install the Video Splitter
The wires behind are from the security system and are not currently used.
The black coax on the far right goes to the cable modem inside the enclosure.
Step 8: Install the Network Punchdowns
This part takes some time and you need to work carefully. There are two wiring standards in use for twisted pair Ethernet: T-568A and T-568B. A is supposedly older and B is more common today. The difference between the two standards is how the orange and green pairs are wired. The Legrand On-Q gear uses T-568A. There are plenty of good tutorials on how to punchdown cable. One I used was this one but keep in mind that you are going to be using T-568A with the On-Q gear.
Step 9: Install the Other Items
Connect the power adaptors for the switch and router into the power strip and run the low voltage cable up the sides of the enclosure to the units. Keep everything tidy using wire ties.
If you connect the router to one of the ports of the patch panel and connect a computer to the corresponding wall outlet, you should be able to connect and configure the router.
Step 10: Install the Cable Modem and Ooma
One of the outputs from the video splitter goes into the cable modem and its network output goes into the router.
One of the outputs from the router goes to the Ooma and the Ooma's handset output goes to the telephone input of the phone/data module for distribution to one or more of the wall outlets.
Step 11: Wire Everything Up
I used short 1' patch cords to keep things neat.
The wire loom at the top is for the currently unused security wiring. You'll see that there is ample space for an alarm board in the unit although I would need another mounting plate for its backup battery.