Left your favourite Multi-tool outside? Rusted?
Or just not opening smoothly...
Here's how to fix and maintain it.

Your Multi-tool may not be similar... but the same guide can be followed..

What you will need:-

- 1200/800g Wet-n-Dry abrasive paper

- Lubricant preferably teflon based

- Clean dry cloth

- Small container

Let's begin!

Step 1: Taking Your MT Apart-

When taking your MT apart, especially for the first time, it is important to remember and note which pieces go where...

Believe me, if you get them messed up your going to be there for a while sorting the mess out.

I prefer to take an A4 piece of paper, and line the parts out in order...
This allows us to simply "stack", the parts back into the chassis of the unit..

Begin by locating the fixing mechanism's, which retain the implements..
On my model I have four small bolts...
Some models have a swing arm locking mech..
Locate it and remove the locking system..

<p>Excellent idea in making a diagram of all the parts. I just set them out and traced them onto paper. Also, while I had my tool apart, I was able to add the glowing PlastiDip I had made for <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Glowing-Tool-Handles/" rel="nofollow">my own Glowing Tool Handles Instructable</a>.</p>
This is an excellent guide. Must of the times I clean all my tools with WD-40 and never had problems with it. I have never done a guide on how to clean tools, so this article gave me some ideas.<br> I have reviewed this tool at <a href="http://www.bestmultitoolreview.net" rel="nofollow">Best Multi tool</a> so you can take a look at it. Thanks
What Multi- tool is this?
I use WD-40 as a solvent in cleaning, then 3-in-1 or some unlabeled can of silcone spray I found in the basement. Unfortunately, my leatherman was not built to be disassembled. But, I find a stiff toothbrush suitable to clean every nook.
OR, you could send it back to the manufacturer, they will clean, sharpen, replace broken parts and send it back for free. I've done this a couple times.
thats what i did man i sprayed some w-d inbetween my lock knife and it worked forever . i dont know why everybody is hating w-d man i use it fore every thing and it never let me down
Oh the humanity! WD-40 has many a good use, unfortunatley none of which include long term lubrication of moving joints. It is an attractant in nature and as a penetrative lubricant lends its self towards having tiny grit and dirt particles adhereing to it. Sure it works great at getting things moving. That's its job. But long term no, it's not what it is designed for and can down right damage delicate or precision pieces of equipment. Statements like "thats what i did man i sprayd some w-d inbetween my lock knife and it worked forver ." don't really help the cause for "good information" as your "forever" may not be accurate. So how long is "forever"? Here's a little test if you need proof. Spray some Wd-40 in you front door lock mechanism and see how long it takes to jamb.... remember great at first but just wait.... (I advise you do not do that , please.)
WD_40 is Water Displacing formula number 40, it was developed to keep water away from electrical components in salt water environment. it is a Fish Oil based product and is a very poor lubricant over any length of time as it turns into a very pretty light golden colored semi solid, a reapplication renews the original BUT leads to a thicker covering again when it solidifies. About the only way to remove the golden sludge is another application of WD-40 to loosen the older caked on sludge and then clean it all of with a solvent. Use 3 in 1 oil instead of WD-40 it is actually compounded to LUBRICATE unlike WD-40.
I like rotor oil like the kind used in brass instruments, its primary use is for the long term lubrication of moving joints, a little in my knife and a little in my french horn makes life a lot easier
Wasn"t sure where to suggest this but this seems as good as anywhere. For a wunder lube and rust remover you might try Break Free. It's a family staple in our tool room. Good enough for gunsmithing work and really gets into the small places. I brought a rusted chunk of a Victorinox back to life with it.
for your info that same lock knife is the one i take out boating and iv dropedin the salt water and it still works fine and forever is about 6 years
i agree with Lftndbt, wd-40 just rust remover not for lubricate things
well lets see...WD-40 stands for water displacement & it took them 40 tries to get it right but yes i agree it is not meant for long term use(its really meant for rust anyway)
Yeppers! WD40 is good for a quick fix, but is very bad to depend on for long term lube. It turns to gum, IMO.
i think the one thing you might have missed<br> i do to all my knives and stuff like that is to make sure all the plastic washers are in good shape i broke a couple and replaced them with copper washers that i soaked a bit in oil works great..better than the plastic/Teflon ones cause they don't break theu just wear after a long time
i have the same multitool.<br>
there is this one chemical you can soak your rusted pieces it should be easy to find it is called c.l.r. clr stands for calcium lima rust this chemical will remove all three of these just follow directions
BoneLESS Chicken does not have bones and never will. So stainLESS Steel can stain?<br /> <br /> Ok, lame jokes aside, I thought stainless steel would not rust. But that [robably depends on a few factors.<br /> <br /> Also I was wondering if you know of any way to make or buy replacment blades for a multi tool. Specifically a Gerber Suspension. I just picked one up and was thinking about trying to replace a few things I wont ever use with something a bit more usefull.<br />
stainless steel &quot;stains less&quot; it is not 100% stain proof of rust proof
Why bother with all of this when you can just buy a SOG? I have one and it has been through just about everything. I've never had to clean or sharpen it ONCE and it still has its factory sharp blade and zero rust!<br />
Someone mentioned Leatherman tools being stainless. I don't believe so... it's my understanding that stainless won't magnetize, but after a thoughtless and prolonged encounter with a welding magnet my Blast pliers are slightly magnetic. I make sure to use a different tool for electronics. Am I right about stainless and magnetism?
There are different grades of stainless steel. Some rust more readily than others. Tool-grade and some cutlery stainless steels (such as 400 series) have a higher iron content and more carbon, which makes then more prone to rust and magnetism. 18/8 stainless is frequently used for cooking utensils, pots and pans is less likely to rust or be magnetized. Keep your tools clean, dry and lubricated and you will get less corrosion and longer life.<br />
To my knowledge from my Blast, the Leatherman Blast's body is fully constructed of stainless steel. Stainless steel can magnetize but only after prolonged contact with a strong magnetic field. I have frequently covered mine in water for the last 9 months and it is still like brand new.
hi nice ible i use wd40 or teflon based tri flow for lube
if you have the swisstool by victorinox like I do, you wont have to worry about rust.
A leatherman's better then a swiss tool.
I lost my original classic Letterman and want to know what model will replicate it best and the cheapest place to buy one.
What tools do you use to get the bolts out?
torx screwdriver
He he he, another multi-tool. ;P
My sister once gave me one of those little bitty SwissTek keychain thingies. The first thing I did with it was to tighten the scissors on my Swiss army knife. She didn't understand why I giggled.
you can use a digital camera, a small one and take pics of the process to remember where each piece goes ; )
Thanks for this write up!
Thankyou. ;) It's good to see it still receiving 100 views a day, almost 2 years after publishing it.
Having read most of the comments, I must add this: I don't know so much about Leatherman-brand tools; but I have several Gerber multi-tools. If anything ever--and I do mean 'anything' and 'ever'--goes wrong with it, I just send it to Gerber. They send it back, fixed, with the blades sharpened and with a new pouch. All I'm out is the cost of postage too the service center. They're the Zippo lighter of multitools. It's not worth even trying to fix it. That said, I did send them a picture of one tool on which I'd broken the pliers. They promptly sent me a new set of plier jaws, along with instructions to install them...and a new pouch.
I was issued a Gerber tool in the Army. A lifetime warranty is nice, but not much comfort when the pliers break on top of a ridge in eastern Afghanistan. The design is simply nowhere near as good as the Leatherman Wave. The handles are flisier, the plier jaws jam up , the tool blades are too short and face the wrong way, the tool doesn't close up as compactly--- it's just not in the same class. I'm not a big fan of the "new" Wave design with the stupid loseable screwdriver bits, but it's still a quality tool.
Yes, that is why I didn't call the I'ble, maintain your leatherman/gerber. I send my leatherman back. I also took up the warranty on a Vietnam issued brass Zippo. They replaced the spring assembly, well one arm of it.
could you just spray the tool carfully and let it dry dont want to completly dissasmble
Yes you could, I would rather bath it in a dish of liquid. Spraying to me would be a last resort.
what if i took the whole tool and bathed it without taking it apart would that work
You said it was new? What is wrong with it..?
You're using a leatherman I'm assuming? It's stainless steel right?
Yes a new style leatherman wave
A proper multi-tool will never go rusty, because a proper multi-tool will always be either in your hand or your pocket, ready for use.<br/><br/>It is lunchtime as I type: already I have sharpened numerous pencils (it's amazing how many kids &quot;forget&quot; their sharpeners to get the cool faceted look a knife leaves), removed the closing mechanism from a door, loosened a bent bolt from another door, rescued a cyber-pet from a toilet and diced a red cabbage to make indicator.<br/><br/>It doesn't have <em>time</em> to go rusty.<br/>
wow. you must be pretty busy. also, multitools are usually stainless steel, so they wouldn't rust.
Ummmm... check your facts.... stainless steel can not only rust, but it can also tarnish... dependant on the grade. ;)
Yeah one time I left it outside for a week (i thought i lost it)and i found it under i plastic chair in my backyard so i picked it up and all the parts that were not all shiny like the stainless steel logo were rusted. ironic.
Couldn't agree with you more... My leatherman never leaves me pocket or hand... Love using it to cut up my meat pie's... ;) This was simply for those people out there, that unfortunatley don't treat their multi-tool's as well as you or myself. The one in the ible is my Kinchrome... Lives in my tool box..... Water heater started leaking, and unfortuantley my good ole' steel tool box (only spot welded together... sent everything putridly rusty... Didn't notice till a week later... With the moisture ,humidity etc the rust bloomed like crazy... Hence the rusty Multi-tool...
me too, but I got a new Swiss Gear backpack and i keep it in there. (unless I'm at college or school because there is guards roaming the halls.)

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