How to make Candles!

My mom loves candles. This year for Hanukka, instead of spending 18 bucks for a candle or two from yankee, I've decided to make her some candles! I ended up spending $12 at Joanne's for enough wax/wicks for ~16 candles. I, however, only made two so that she can decide on her own scent/color combination when I make more.

I had a lot of fun making these, and I know she's going to love them.

UPDATE: I gave them to her tonight (12/6/07) and she really did love them, they're burning now.

Step 1 Caution

This project does require a few safety/mess preventions.

*Wax is very hard to clean up from counters. In order to help with cleanup, use as few tools as possible, and cover your work space in newspaper. I wish I had done that.

*Wax is flammable, for this reason, it's very important that you don't use any setting higher than medium on your stove, and use a thermometer if possible.

Wax's flash point is 300 degrees F, don't let it's temperature exceed 250 degrees.

Comments

[praise_song]

Here's what I do: I save up all those little bitty scraps of the ends of candles ... all colors, scents, sizes, etc. Break them in to smaller pieces, if necessary. Store 'em in a clean, 24-oz. pickle jar, with a lid on it. When you have quite a few bits and ends, put the entire jar into a 2-qt. pot, that has about 2"of water in it. You can place a boil-control mechanism under the jar, if you'd like... it helps to keep the "bouncing" down to a minimum, but it'snot necessary. Bring the water to a boil, and turn to med. low, just so the water keeps simmering around the glass jar. It will melt the wax, but will not ruin your cookware. When it's all melted, add your color and any scent you are using to the melted wax.
Using a potholder or two, pour the wax into your clean votives or whatever you're using as a container. Use whatever method you prefer for setting the wick. I use the pre-tabbed/pre-crimped ones, for ease. I buy them for $5.95/100pcs, and they last me a LONG, LONG time.
I am not a true "candle maker", per se, but I hate wasting all those little ends of candles ... once melted down, I can usually get 3 or 4 more votives ... and that's about $12+ , if you buy the Glade ones.
I use this jar-melt method, and I have NEVER had a spill, or any mess whatsoever. Whatever sticks inside the jar ... well, it'll be melted down into the next batch, the next time I make candles!
Oh! ... I also bought a 73¢ plastic, 3ml pipette (a dropper) at Sally Beauty Supply, and use it for my scents. I keep that JUST for measuring the scented oils, so no muss/no fuss w/ the scented oils, either.

[Moe_Tangna]

Hello!, I want to make a very large candle (like 3-4 feet tall) I have around 4 diffrent colors of melted candles that are each the same brand. how can i make the mold for the canlde and how can i layer it so that when the next color is burning a diffrent scent comes out? ( i have enough candles to make a sizeable candle)

suggenstions?

[curvy77]

to change scent of wax as well as layer it do not melt all wax at once. melt whatever max you want on bottom first and so forth. add the bottom wax first and let cool/harden. then add next layer and so forth. as for the scent i am not sure this will work (dont use this till ur sure so experiment and get back to me) but try grinding up flowers pine needles or whatever it is you want, and add ing this fine smelling powder to the melted wax and stir. again may not work so test it before useing this method on ur large candle.

[curvy77]

well if you take a styrofam cup wood or any material than can hold its shape. you can hollow out your own design. i have not yet tried making a candle however i have melted cans and carved my own mold.....hehe wood + melted aluminum= small fire.

[davin_x]

I'd recommend using a small paper cup (they come in shot glass size up to larger cup sizes!) instead of a coke can. Reason being is that the paper cups are cheaper and have a light wax coating inside them as it is. Once the candle wax has solidified, you can just cut the paper cup off and you end up with cool candles.

I also poke a small hole through the bottom of the paper cups, and thread the wick through that (seal it with a bit of wax from another candle).


Example here:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-wXJQ74Oav8o/RpwqRy1Gl5I/AAAAAAAAAEc/UhMJH_aUNe8/s640/090720073413.jpg

[nutsandbolts_64]

I recall how the industry made those stick-like candles. Basically, first you dip the string in there, take it out, let the wax on it solidify, then dip it again, take it out, solidify etc. It'll build layers of wax upon one another until you get your desired thickness. Any chance to do that instead?

[onlineiftikhar]

Use candle colorant instead of crayons better results and costs less. No sediment on the bottom of the pot.

[sbrown1]

wow !!

[Amanda Hutchens]

hii everyone how is this topic goin?

[salt-n-burn]

Maybe something that would cut down a few steps would be to fashion some sort of base for the wick (A square or circle of thin cardboard, or thick paper, maybe.) You could poke a hole in it, thread the wick through, and tape a small piece of the wick to the underside. Then drop it in your container, and pour the wax over the whole thing. As far as getting the wick to stand straight... Any number of things could be fashioned to hold it centered. (Although I suppose it probably would be best to dip the wick first. I don't know about everyone else, but I have about a billion candle jars/holders lying around. Once the candle is spent, I always scrape out the excess wax and hold onto the container like I'll reuse it some day... Which thanks to this article, I just might! :) No one would ever know it was homemade. (Well, until you brag about it, of course!)

[stephNY]

Tea lights pretty much always have a small base like the one you suggest, a small circle of aluminum with a molded hole to hold the wick upright in the center of the candle. They don't get damaged at all from burning the candles, and are completely reusable. You can usually find tea lights at ten for a dollar at the dollar store, or at a hundred for five dollars at Target. (WHAT A DEAL!)

[rudegirl]

i accidentally found out that your metal pots can be clean by soaking them in "white spirit" i left my lacquer brushes in the pot i used to melt the wax for candles and added white spirit so i could wash the brushes clean today and though the brushes still were a pain to clean the wax that was stuck on the pot walls had disolved into a watery substance :D wierd since both substances are derive from paraffine but ti WORKS!

[bobftx]

This photo is a diagram for starting a house fire. What happened to the double boiler? Also, if you use nesting pots, make absolutely sure that they do not fit tightly together. If steam builds up between them you have hot wax, boiling water, and a hot pot flying all over the kitchen--and all over you.

Maybe just buy the candles.

[izzyk84]

1. (S)he already made them.
2. (S)he decided to make the candles so that (s)he wouldn't have to buy them for a fortune. Nice job reading.

[HayIamRhian]

Hi,
You said that if you were using a glass as a mould then you should grease it to get it out.
Couldn't you just leave it in there so the glass could be like a candle holder?

[jdevilliersbuz]

Hi Great site check this one aswell for more candle making stuff... this so so much fun
http://howtomakescentedpillarfloatingbeeswaxcandles.com/

[bowman]

I nearly forgot.................Pick up a bag of styrene, it's granulated. It will harden the wax and give you a slower burn. Your candles will last much longer and burn more even.

[Bad Maxx]

Could you explain this a bit better? Styrene is vinyl benzene, I cannot for the life of me imagine that burning or melting, however you want to word it, in a candle is healthy in any stretch of the imagination. I know back in the day we had strict warnings about the fumes from heating granulated styrene to form bathtubs, It causing a long list of health problems and is considered a carcinogen. Maybe you had something else in mind?

[bowman]

Thanks, the post has been corrected.

[Bad Maxx]

No problem! Thank you for clearing that up!

[bowman]

It appears I made a major mistake here................I meant to say to use Stearine for a slower burn, longer candle life, etc. Thanks to BadMaxx for catching me on this.
I get it at Michael's. Yaley Enterprises is the manufacturer, marketer, etc.

[ucanBanerd]

They make a pin for candle making, most times you pour wax twice, because the center where the wick is, sinks as it cools and you get a bit of a hole. The pins go in the bottom of the mold and makes it so after the candle hardens there is a prefectly straight hole through the candle, thread your wick through the hole, then when you repour (make your wax 20 degrees hotter so you don't get a line) it fills the gaps and your wix and your hole from cooling are fixed. I'm going to try to improvise one for pillar candles using a bamboo skewer.

[Bad Maxx]

THANK YOU! I've been curious why all of my candles sink in the middle making a big ugly divot! Also makes the candles burn wrong! Now I'm re-inspired to make candles again!
Thanks.

[ucanBanerd]

There are some waxes that don'e require a re-pour, but most do, and the second time, your wax needs to be ten to twenty degrees hotter than on the firts melt, so you don't get a line. I've already screwed this up once, lol, but if it's just for home, no one cares. I make the batch a few ounces bigger than i need, then re-melt whats left in the pot for the re-pour after your wax cools the first time. I also noticed that you will get a much worse hole if you try and speed things up by putting them in the frige!

[Bad Maxx]

I agree with the fridge making it worse! My first candles had a rather shallow sink-hole to them, then thinking maybe cooling them faster would prevent this, I put my next batch in the fridge. Way worse! Can't wait to try your method.

[pbhound]

i agree NEVER do this! if the wax is too big for the pot; use a hammer to break it into smaller pieces (just wear eye protection)!

[Weissensteinburg]

If you read the entire step, you'll see that I put the wax on top to soften it. I then cut it into smaller pieces and used a double boiler to melt it.

There's nothing dangerous about a large block of wax over boiling water. It would take hours, if ever, for the wax to soften to the point of breaking and falling in.

[j.w.mills]

Yes to the hammer but I use a chisels or a screwdriver I don't mind beating on the end of, to break the wax into chunks that fit. Just whacking with a hammer makes a mess. Leave the wax cold to chunk it.

Use candle colorant instead of crayons better results and costs less. No sediment on the bottom of the pot.

I have found that "most" oil based sents(sp!) work in candles. Try Frankincense or Muir... Or both OH so nice. On the oils that come out (evaporate) of the candles to fast I dip the candles in hot wax after unmolding and cooling for a day.

Use tapered molds and after cooling the candles usually just fall out.

[j.w.mills]

Easy trick. If you have a gravel path or driveway take your tools there and poor boiling water over them the little bit of wax will help hold down dust this summer. It's the only good way to clean the strainer I use to get the bits of stuff out of recycled wax!

OR pop the tools in the large pot of the double boiler and boil a bit. Let cool skim hardened wax off the top and retrieve tools. You will only have a bit of wax at the water line of the pot to clean up. My bamboo scraper and a bit of hot soap and water takes care of that.

[Beekeeper]

Wicks are braided - either flat braided or square braided. Before braided wick was invented, candles used to develop great long wicks sticking up into the flame which required regular trimming to avoid clouds of black smoke and soot. Braided wick curls over as it burns and thus sticks out into the hot part of the flame where it is able to burn itself away. Flat braided wicks are usually better for paraffin wax candles wheres square braided is better for beeswax (which burns slower). Additionally you have to get the right size/diameter of wick proportional to the diameter of your candle. If the wick is too small you will get that big puddle of wax in the middle of the candle which snuffs out the flame, or the surplus wax runs down the side of the candle. The wick has to be big enough to soak up the amount of wax that the heat from the flame melts. I could go on and on about candle making as I have been making all kinds of beeswax candles for nearly 50 years.

[burnerjack01]

It would seem to me, anyone who has 50 years of experience at candle making ( or anything else for that matter) has an enormous amount of expertise that would be a travesty if lost. Please consider writing a book or video or even instructible series. Maybe even an internet workshop!
I envy the skill you must possess

[Beekeeper]

I have given workshops to friends and bee clubs but as for writing a book, no thanks. I tried it once on another subject and found the whole process too difficult. There are numerous videos on youtube on making candles, though of course not all good - in my opinion.

[bowman]

I enjoy your hobby too, although at this time of year they can be bought nearly as inexpensive as making them, but certainly not as much fun, and buying them limits your choices. As far as wick goes, string is too flimsy, not enough backbone. Wick is braided which means it will stand up (it's stiffer) and will burn longer. If you are using a container, such as empty cans, for shape, use a cooking spray inside the can before you pour the wax. Your candles should slide right out. Hope this helps, Good Luck!

[ChrisLewis300]

Instead of buying Wax and those expensive wicks, can't you just buy plain white household candles. I can get 6 for £1/$1.50.

Break the candles into 1" sections and pull apart leaving the wicks intact.

If melting a small amount of wax, I've used an old tin can inside a pan of simmering water, easy to dispose after.

[ricoplace]

What are wicks really made up of?  Cotton string?. Like around the house or in 100 foot rolls? say 40 lb. test? if, so should i presoak the wick in wax? THere must be something lying around the house!

[bobftx]

Wicks are actually very clevery engineered textiles! Made to burn properly without smoking, to trim themselves as they burn, and to be exactly the right size and weight for a certain size of candle. You have to get wick! You cannot use string, and you cannot make your own.

[mikelz]

You can try using string but it probably won't work. I'm a Zippo user. If you light that thing when it's dry, the wick burns itself down. I think the same thing would happen here - the string would burn but the was never would.

[ucanBanerd]

These supplies are actually available for a lot less online, the issue is that wax is expensive to ship because it's heavy. I wouldn't improvise on wicks though, or your candle won't burn right. Cool idea using vanilla extract. I wonder is it worth it if you want to make candles all the time? I can buy a lot more fragrance from a candle supply, and it's designed to hold up. a 2 oz bottle is only 1.99... That's cheaper than vanilla extract. Believe it or not, dye from a supplier will also be cheaper than crayons, and cheap crayons are going to give you cheap color...buy a good candle making kit.

[Mplinnc]

Heh heh. It sorta looks like barf.

[jimstrotman]

 Candle wicks;  it's not what they are made from, it's HOW they are made.  It's not a simple cotton string but a string that is hi-tech woven.  There are several strands amongst the many strands that are pulled tighter than the rest.  Reason:  so the wick will always bend at the top sightly to one side so the end will burn off; otherwise, it will not burn off and the flame will get crazy and the wick/string will SMOKE.  Not a good thing for a candle to do.

Stick with professionally made wicks.