I had a lot of fun making these, and I know she's going to love them.
UPDATE: I gave them to her tonight (12/6/07) and she really did love them, they're burning now.
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*Wax is very hard to clean up from counters. In order to help with cleanup, use as few tools as possible, and cover your work space in newspaper. I wish I had done that.
*Wax is flammable, for this reason, it's very important that you don't use any setting higher than medium on your stove, and use a thermometer if possible.
Wax's flash point is 300 degrees F, don't let it's temperature exceed 250 degrees.
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Lay the wick on something flat, like a flat surface. It dries very quickly and if left undisturbed will not curve on its own.
Maybe just buy the candles.
2. (S)he decided to make the candles so that (s)he wouldn't have to buy them for a fortune. Nice job reading.
Using a potholder or two, pour the wax into your clean votives or whatever you're using as a container. Use whatever method you prefer for setting the wick. I use the pre-tabbed/pre-crimped ones, for ease. I buy them for $5.95/100pcs, and they last me a LONG, LONG time.
I am not a true "candle maker", per se, but I hate wasting all those little ends of candles ... once melted down, I can usually get 3 or 4 more votives ... and that's about $12+ , if you buy the Glade ones.
I use this jar-melt method, and I have NEVER had a spill, or any mess whatsoever. Whatever sticks inside the jar ... well, it'll be melted down into the next batch, the next time I make candles!
Oh! ... I also bought a 73¢ plastic, 3ml pipette (a dropper) at Sally Beauty Supply, and use it for my scents. I keep that JUST for measuring the scented oils, so no muss/no fuss w/ the scented oils, either.
suggenstions?
I also poke a small hole through the bottom of the paper cups, and thread the wick through that (seal it with a bit of wax from another candle).
Example here:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-wXJQ74Oav8o/RpwqRy1Gl5I/AAAAAAAAAEc/UhMJH_aUNe8/s640/090720073413.jpg
You said that if you were using a glass as a mould then you should grease it to get it out.
Couldn't you just leave it in there so the glass could be like a candle holder?
http://howtomakescentedpillarfloatingbeeswaxcandles.com/
I get it at Michael's. Yaley Enterprises is the manufacturer, marketer, etc.
Thanks.
There's nothing dangerous about a large block of wax over boiling water. It would take hours, if ever, for the wax to soften to the point of breaking and falling in.
Use candle colorant instead of crayons better results and costs less. No sediment on the bottom of the pot.
I have found that "most" oil based sents(sp!) work in candles. Try Frankincense or Muir... Or both OH so nice. On the oils that come out (evaporate) of the candles to fast I dip the candles in hot wax after unmolding and cooling for a day.
Use tapered molds and after cooling the candles usually just fall out.
OR pop the tools in the large pot of the double boiler and boil a bit. Let cool skim hardened wax off the top and retrieve tools. You will only have a bit of wax at the water line of the pot to clean up. My bamboo scraper and a bit of hot soap and water takes care of that.
I envy the skill you must possess
Break the candles into 1" sections and pull apart leaving the wicks intact.
If melting a small amount of wax, I've used an old tin can inside a pan of simmering water, easy to dispose after.