This instructable shows the steps for doing EL wire art, by gluing it onto an acrylic plastic background.

Step 1: The Parts

EL wire, el wire driver - acquired from http://www.neonstring.com

Black Acrylic plastic - acquired (free scraps) from Regal Plastics in Houston

Glue/Adhesive (IPS WELD-ON 3) - acquired from Regal Plastics in Houston

Plasticator squeeze bottle applicator - acquired from Regal Plastics in Houston.

Printed image - from the Internets or your artistic ability


exacto knife

EL wire soldering materials - see: http://neonstring.com/index.php?tasket=solder
<p>This is an awesome project, I've been lusting after neon art for ages but now I want to use EL wire and do it myself! :)</p>
neonstring.com appears to be defunct. Where might you suggest as an alternative supplier? I have a basic soldering kit that I've never used&mdash;is there anything out of the ordinary that you would need?
Yup I closed NeonString. I would recommend CoolNeon.com as an alternate. They carry the exact same stuff, but in greater quantities. <br>If you tell me exactly what you're planning to solder up, I can tell you exactly what to get. <br>Some stuff I used every time:<br>3/32&quot; heat shrink<br>3/16&quot; heat shrink<br>copper foil tape (available from Hobby Lobby, but I think CoolNeon also carries it)
El wire Chaplin <br>But I dont like very much<br>
<p>I do! Very easily recognizable! Me likey!</p>
<p>Hi guys, <br>I am just getting into light art stuff. It's pretty fun! I made this project for a dance party we threw. I used 5 mm wire and hot glue. EL wire is a great medium.</p>
<p>Woah! Any more pics of that? Looks flipping sweet!</p>
<p>I've been eyeing this tutorial for years and years! I finally got to make an el-wire sign for an event I work at called Ladies Night - and I helped 20 other ladies make their own signs. Thanks for a great tutorial that's inspired me for many projects :) </p>
<p>Hey that so cool! :D Thanks for letting me know, and the awesome pics! </p>
<p>El wire chemistry</p><p>Erlenmeyer with bubbles</p>
NICE! Are you a chemist?
<p>Actually I'am a chemical engineer but I work as a chemist. I bougth a lot wires and thus I make I will send the pictures. A really liked to make that. Sorry my english but I am brazilian</p><p>see you </p>
<p>saw come up with a new control system with ipad might be useful for you https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q8c6u_P4lUM</p>
<p>I worked on something similar. I prefered to use coroplast as the backing board (think cardboard box material but made out of plastic). This has the advantage of cutting with a box cutter and T-Square and also doesn't require a drill for holes. An awl will work just fine.</p><p>I had the toughest time trying to figure out how to bind the EL Wire to the backing. Superglue didn't cure fast enough (it did to my fingers, but not the project). Other glues would be even slower. Hot melt was wayyy to messy/blobby. Rubber cememet was too messy and goobery. Aerosol adhesive required a stencil and didin't bind well enough.</p><p>The EUREKA solution was UV-Cured resin. This is used a lot in fly-fishing. This allowed tacking and curing the bond in just 3-4 seconds. </p><p>In Photoshop, I was able to get a precise line in the middle of the neon are below. I printed that and transferred to my board with old-fashioned carbon paper and a dead ballpoint pen.</p><p>The original is on the left below. In the middle is my rendition unpowered, then powered on the right...</p>
That is fantastic! What gauge of EL wire is that, 5mm? Beautifully done,
<p>Thanks for the kind words. And THANKS (even more) for the inspiration! My sign is using 2.3mm EL wire. I think 5mm would have made the lettering a little too difficult. The lettering is one continuous piece of EL wire that's laced thru holes in the Coroplast backing. When bending and placing the wire, it doesn't like to stay bent or stay in place. This is why I needed an adhesive that would cure on my command. I used a brand of UV-Cured resin called Bondic. Without something like this, getting the results I wanted weren't possible.</p><p>I've made other signs as well with the same process. The Raiders sign uses an Arduino and an Escudo Dos to animate the letters individually as well as the logo.</p><p>The Dark Side of the Moon logo demonstrates how unforgiving human eyes are on straight/sharp lines and symmetrical spacing. The symmetry you accomplished in your project is quite commendable!</p>
<p>Yes, 5mm wire would be much harder to deal with, and it is not even as bright as the thinner EL wire, in my experience. So you used 2.3mm EL wire with Bondic UV-cured resin... how does that work? Do you spray it onto the Coroplast, and then apply the EL wire? Do you cure it with sunlight or blacklights? I am completely unfamiliar with that. Love the Pink Floyd prism. </p>
<p>They say you're your own worst critic (unless Simon Cowell is around). I'm just not as happy with the prism as I'd hoped. The Bondic product comes in a soft plastic tube with a very precise metal tip -- very much like the tip of a mechanical pencil. You're able to put a very precise drop, (about 1mm-2mm in diameter) wherever you'd like. It cures in about 3-4 seconds when you shine an little UV flashlight on it that comes with the product (like a keychain flashlight). I have a small UV laser from another project that I use that cures in about 2 seconds (sometimes you just don't want to wait the extra 2 seconds - grin). It stays a thin resin until you hit it with the light. So you can easily remove mistakes without the same mess you'd get from glue if it hasn't been cured yet.</p><p>In my case, I'd thread the EL wire thru a hole in the Coroplast and then tack into place with the Bondic. I'd continue to tack where needed to hold the wire in the desired shape. So, it's tacked into place; there isn't Bondic under the entire length of the wire. That'd be unnecessary overkill.</p><p>I found the Coroplast to be just a little too smooth for the Bondic to hold really well, so I used aerosol adhesive to stick 80-pound black paper (lots of varieties/patterns/colors available at Michael's) to the Coroplast. This gave a superior surface to stick to.</p><p>Bondic is just one of the UV cured resins available. There's several others available in the world of Fly-Fishing. I was surprised I'm in my mid-40s, quite technical, and was unfamiliar with this stuff. The Bondic product ain't cheap, but then you don't use very much when making signs like the ones I made.</p>
<p>I think for over the Pond friends that Plexiglass is called PERSPEX also.What airplane cowling is made of---will scratch if not careful but comes in lots of thickness' and colors. </p><p>Can this stuff be used outdoors ie could it be used to outline a motorcycle engine? We have a very chrome heavy engine with lots of overhangs--this is NOT a V-6!!!!---and the LED strips we got just don;t do what we want where we want it--and I am NOT spending several hundred for a few strips of &quot;pro installed&quot; LED's!!!! </p><p>Any place to get more info or see this stuff in person that anyone can think of? A different maker said Radio Shack sells this but do they have it on display? </p>
Nice work. I always wondered how EL wire worked but never got around to looking up the info. Now I don't need to. LoL
Also see my last comment. Dental tools with a broad tip will work as holders, too. (I love my dentist!)
I've asked my dentist for any tools that have broken or that he would otherwise discard. They are useful for scratching guide lines in plastic. In this case, I would use a tool whose tip had broken off and I ground/filed to a scribed. Also, I use them for detailing models, sculpting forms for casting, etc...
isnt el wire breakable if you bend it at too much of an angle? or am I mistaken. obviously you did it but is there a technique for bending it so sharply?
2.5mm and 2.6mm EL wire won't break if you bend it on too sharp of an angle. What can happen is that you can end up with a little area of darkness at the bend, or you could possible break one of the hair thin radial wires. (I think the wire would still light just as brightly with just one of the radial wires intact.)<br> <br> But for this Instructable, I used the tiny 1.2mm wire, aka &quot;angel hair&quot; wire. It seems to be much more forgiving, because I really pinched the wire to get those points as sharp-looking as I could, and there were no failures, no problems.<br> <br> I knew getting sharp points with 2.5mm wire would be very iffy. On the Jack-O-Lantern, I used 2.3mm orange for the teeth, and I pinched them really hard to make the teeth look pointy... and the wire failed completely - I had to pull the EL wire off the mirror, wiggle it around until it worked, and re-glue it. So apparently, if you need to make some sharp points, 1.2mm wire is the way to go... although this Instructable here:<br> <br> <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Removable-EL-wire-art-panels/">https://www.instructables.com/id/Removable-EL-wire-art-panels/</a><br> <br> shows a brilliant way to get sharp looking points without actually stressing out the EL wire with any sharp bends.
the one with the sequencer is especially sweet!
Thanks drhoff. I like it too :)
can anyone here tell me a good supplier for el wire with a good price. I am thinking of making name signs in a perspex casing and selling on a stall. but want to give the public a good resistable price. thanks for reading and hope someone can help me.
I recommend NeonString.com, Coolneon.com, Coolight.com, and ElWireBestBuy.com.
thanks GlowWireGuy will check them out later.
great tut , specially the wiring on you're website.
Hey thanks! Much appreciated! :)
personally i think it looks quite slick being asymmetrical like that... especially if it were hung on a wall.
It would make for an interesting book cover. :)
Question: With this EL wire - if you were to make a groove into clear acrylic and inlay the wire - would the light spread through the acrylic like fiber optics?
Well the light would spread through the acrylic, but you would only see it on the edges, or in any scratches or imperfections in the acrylic. If you go here:<br/><br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://neonstring.com/index.php?tasket=videos">http://neonstring.com/index.php?tasket=videos</a><br/><br/>And look at the third video (the Jack-o-lantern one), you will see what I mean. When it shows it from behind, you can definitely see the edges illuminated.<br/>
do you think it would work with clear plexiglass which i would spray paint black at the end? would that work?
On Wikipedia, it calls plexiglass "acrylic glass" so it might work. A plastics shop like Regal Plastics could probably help with that question.
I apparently wasn't totally clear, I was not really wondering how much pressure you could put on it as much as how far will it flex and if you were to use it for something that abused it, I don't know what but how resilient is it?
I'd love to try this some time, some things I want to know first though are, how tough is the wire? and how hard is it really to wire up, there's not a whole lot on Instructables on wiring it up and I can't tell from pictures.
Well as far as tough.. you could run over it with a car and it would probably be okay. The 2.5mm stuff is the brightest, and I prefer to work with that than the skinnier 1.2mm wire used here. But I had to do those sharp points, so I used the 1.2mm. I really pinched the wire hard to get the sharpest points I could, and had no problems at all with the 1.2mm wire. When I have forced the 2.5mm wire into sharp angles, I have seen it create a black spot on the wire, or cause the wire to fail entirely. The jack-o-lantern's teeth for example, failed at first, but I wiggled it around and it came back on. (2.5mm)<br/><br/> As for the wiring, there are already Instructables on soldering EL wire, and I have very detailed, illustrated, step-by-step instructions on my website, here:<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://neonstring.com/index.php?tasket=solder">http://neonstring.com/index.php?tasket=solder</a><br/><br/>
can you over charge the EL wire?
PS could you use a 12 volt or would it fry it?
Well you can't really overcharge it. If you want to light up a 5 foot section, and want it especially bright, you can use a driver designed to light up 30 feet. You wouldn't want to light up two inches of EL wire with that same driver, because you risk frying the driver if there is not enough of a load.<br/><br/>Many EL wire drivers are powered by 12 volts. There are EL wire drivers that run off of two watch batteries, some that use a AAA battery, some that use an AA battery, a 9 volt battery, 12 volts (cigarette lighter plug or 8-AA battery pack), and some drivers you can plug into your household electrical outlets. It just depends on<br/>1. How you want to power it, <br/>and<br/>2. How much EL wire you are powering.<br/><br/>There is more about EL wire here:<br/><br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://neonstring.com/index.php?tasket=faq">http://neonstring.com/index.php?tasket=faq</a><br/>
In the optional step 2, you might want to mention GIMP. It's much better than paint, and it's also free! (It works well too)
wow this is some cool stuff. seeing how cheap acrylic is, i am going to get some for a bunch of projects and hopefully i will make something with el wire too. also the last picture on the last step is awesome.
Here is a video of that last one in motion:<br/><br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.neonstring.com/index.php?tasket=videos">http://www.neonstring.com/index.php?tasket=videos</a><br/>
I wish I had seen this before I did my computer case mod. Very nice. I like the flashing.
Amazing. I think I'm going to make one :) Thanks, Joe
Is neonstring.com your company? L

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