Wow, it's been far too long since my last Instructable. How's everyone doing? This Instructable's been on my list of stuff to to for a long time, and i've only just got around to it. Eh, well.
Mokume-Gane is japanese in origin, and is a composite material formed from layers of metal of various compositions fused (welded) together through heat and pressure. High heat means you don't need high pressure, high pressure means you don't need high heat.
The whole point of making Mokume is to make an attractive metal that can be made into jewellery, ornaments, etc.
It's offensively simple to make. The setup i used to make mokume for this Instructable only cost a few pounds. (I already had the gas and the torch. Yes, you have to buy them.)
There's no picture on this page because i didn't get a picture of the finished product. It's pretty though.
A brief legal note. I am not associated with T-cut, or whichever company it is that makes is, etc.
You CAN make Mokume out of coins, but in the UK it's treason, and in the US it's scarily illegal. I'm not saying don't do it, I'm just saying don't get caught.

Step 1: Make the Stack

WE're using cupro-nickel and brass for this. These two metals create a nice contrast and weld fairly easily, and are also readily available ;0
The really important thing in the process is to get good welds, and to stop the hot metal from squirting across the shop. To do this, we make a set of pressure plates, to keep everything locked still.
To make pressure plates, get some thin steel strap or strip, whatever you want to call it, (B+Q for UK readers) and cut about 2.5 inches off the end. Put it back onto the strip of steel, and drill holes, for rivets to go through. I think the pictures explain this best. After you've got the drilled plates, assemble a stack of alternating metals. The metals you use must have similar working properties and melting points.
Put the stack onto the bottom part of the pressure plate, put the top part of the pressure plate on top of the stack, and rivet them together. This is actually qiute tricky. My best advice to you: Be Creative.
would the zinc content of a U.S. penny be something to avoid when making this? Not sure if it would be anything like forging or welding with galvanized metal.
Older U.S. pennys are copper,the 1943 was zink,I think,and the new ones are alluminum,another words junk.And if you ever work with galvanized,be careful the fumes are toxic.
I'm not sure what the zinc content of a U.S. penny is. However, if you think it's unsafe, by all means, don't do it. I'm fairly sure that your quarters are brass and cupro-nickel, which is the combination I used here.
quarters dimes and nickels are cupro-nickel. Nickels have the biggest amount of copper in them. Once I build my forge I'm going to do this. I'll post some pictures. Sweet Instructable by the way.
<p>US one-cent coins (after 1982) are not a sandwich of copper and cupronickel. They are a lozenge of zinc surrounded by bronze. They will not work in any way similar to what is described here. (Prior to 1982, also no... they were all bronze and no zinc in the middle, you just end up with bronze alloy.)</p>
<p>Using US coinage for this or any other purpose isn't illegal; in fact it is largely protected by the Free Speech clause of the First Amendment. It is, however, illegal to deface a coin with the intent of making it appear to be one of a higher denomination, for obvious reasons.</p>
US pennies are made of a zinc core with a thin coating of copper, NOT cupro-nickle. the zinc is very different in it's reactivity, and if you get it too hot you'll just en up with zinc and brass. Micht still work, but you'd have to vary things a bit
U.S. pennies from 1983 (or is it 1982?) and forward are zinc with copper plating.<br> <br> U.S. pennies 1981 and earlier are definately copper and not zinc.<br> <br> On an interesting side note, a coin dealer in the U.S. told me that legally pennies are &quot;tax tokens&quot; and thus not covered under the defacement laws. And those laws about defacement are about changing the face value of a coin or paper scrip, to prevent fraud. It's technically legal to do these various things to coins and many cut-coin jewelry necklaces exist due to the specific nature of the laws.
<br>Just a note. IT IS NOT ILLEAGLE to deface British coins. I know several people who cut out details for jewellery or punch holes through pennies to use as cheap washers. Same for most EU regions.<br><br>Please fact check.<br>
To my understanding any acid based product could potentially etch the layers. You could fool around with using ketchup, mustard...lol Boiling sprite, heated vinegar. Mustard and ketchup would effect the metals differently, maybe causing different corrosion colors. I would just fool around with anything that has an acid content and see what happens. If you dont like the result just sand it off and try something else. <br /> <br /> -ABS Bladesmith
oh an im guessing ur also a blacksmith and have done damascus steel before so yeah my point is that damascus steel is normally acid etched to reveal the layers can and should this be done with Mokume-Gane????
NO, DO NOT POLISH YOUR PIECE SMOOTH, THEN ETCH IT IN FERRIC CHLORIDE TO BRING OUT THE PATTERN. THE FERRIC CHORIDE WILL EAT THE COPPER AND LEAVE THE NICKEL VIRTUALLY UNTOUCHED. THE COPPER, HOWEVER WILL REMAIN IN HTE FERRIC CHLORIDE AND REDUCE ITS CAUSTIC POTENTIAL. Time reveals the contrast between hte layers best, in my experience. Furthermore, when you're polishing, the layers will be of different hardnesses, so will be affected by the polishing compound at different rates, leading to a slight topography.
Galvanic etching with copper sulfate is easy.&nbsp; It is much easier to dispose of than ferric chloride.
yeah thats wat a acid etch dose on Damascus eats the different metals at different rates revealing the pattern so becuase these metals arn't as tough as steel just don't leave them in there for long or use a mild acid like vinegar
wicked cool!
I love the work you do. Do you think your propane furnace for glass melting would do the trick for this? I'd prefer to work with something broader and flatter so I could make something more than a small medallion. It would also make it easier to score and dent the backside and polish the front rather than having to drill and lose materials. Particularly if I'm working with precious metals.
also is there a problem with using a coke or charcoal forge????
sorry i keep think of more Qs so can ferrous metals bee used like stainless?? with other metals?
oi thanks heaps for this i was just wondering why you don't use a flux???
Hey Vendigroth, how many disks were needed to make that stack?
wow. so they get really compacted huh?
Seven or eight. Maybe nine.
Should I use Pre-1982 US pennies or Post-1982 ones?..Pre has more copper, less zinc...Post has More zinc, hardly any copper.
I'd advise you to stay away from stuff using zinc, the fumes can be dangerous. I understand quarter-dollars are brass sandwiched between cupro-nickel, which gives good contrast. Try welding quarter-dollars.
you can really vary the patterns in this depending on how you score the surface after working it. I tried this today and it was surpisingly easy for me. You really don't need it to be yellow hot. The color i got it to was a bright neon orange like in the picture there and it worked fine. The trick is once you've got it to color give it relatively light taps to encourage the pieces to bond. Don't go smashing on it right off. Go about 25-40% strength hits. anyways, Worked great Vendigroth! plus i'm helping out the US economy!
Yeah, once they're at welding heat, all you need to do is lightly bring the pieces together. Hitting them too hard runs the risk of making pieces of hot brass fly everywhere. I might make a big block, maybe 2 or 3 of these stacks welded together, and see what i can make with it.
kind of like damascus:
man toogood that's a beautiful hatchet.+++++
yeah, I wish I could make one like it
YES! I've been playing with damascus, but i'm having trouble getting the heat.....time to upgrade perhaps.
You might not be able to but if you can I suggest you go on Peat oberons damascus and Mokume course . tap://www.school-of-blacksmithing.co.uk/
<a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.school-of-blacksmithing.co.uk/">http://www.school-of-blacksmithing.co.uk/</a><br/>
Would a vise or vise grip pliers work??? Or is that too much of a heat sink? Thanks for the great Instructable btw, I've been itching to try this for a while now. Aurora
It's just far too much mass to heat up, you're better off clenching the stack of metal between 2 iron plates.
It did work enough to fuse the pieces, not really neatly though because some copper melted off and balled up. Will try drilling tomorrow after work when I have more time. Aurora
With copper and brass, you're not likely to get a great contrast. I'm looking forward to seeing what you make!
I concur =) Will try that the next time around.<br/><br/>Aurora<br/>
Ha! Never mind; tried it with some copper and brass sheet... not so wonderful =)<br/><br/>Aurora<br/>
Oh dear. What went wrong?
So then all the metal that is drilled out... do you pile it on for the second heating or discard it? Auroro
You get rid of the metal shavings from the holes, turn the piece hole-side-down and hammer it (while hot) until the holes fill themselves.
What about using steel nuts and bolts instead of rivets? Would that work? Aurora
Yes it would. I onlu use the rivets because i've got a lot of nails and rather few bolts. Thing is, though, you might squish the bolt, and have to cut through it to separate the plates.
sorry more links<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.mokume-gane.com/Pages/What_is_Mokume.html">http://www.mokume-gane.com/Pages/What_is_Mokume.html</a><br/>
have you ever tried to forge weld silver? will it work?
I tried welding silver and brass, but the stack just melted down. Yes, it will work, but for god's sake watch the temperatures.
wow vendagroth!!!!! You really outdid yourself thistime! Wow is all I can say to this masterpiece. I have always loved your instructbles as your workshop is quite simmiliar to mine. keep up the good work
Thanks a bunch!

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