How to make Mokume-Gane

 by Vendigroth
Wow, it's been far too long since my last Instructable. How's everyone doing? This Instructable's been on my list of stuff to to for a long time, and i've only just got around to it. Eh, well.
Mokume-Gane is japanese in origin, and is a composite material formed from layers of metal of various compositions fused (welded) together through heat and pressure. High heat means you don't need high pressure, high pressure means you don't need high heat.
The whole point of making Mokume is to make an attractive metal that can be made into jewellery, ornaments, etc.
It's offensively simple to make. The setup i used to make mokume for this Instructable only cost a few pounds. (I already had the gas and the torch. Yes, you have to buy them.)
There's no picture on this page because i didn't get a picture of the finished product. It's pretty though.
A brief legal note. I am not associated with T-cut, or whichever company it is that makes is, etc.
You CAN make Mokume out of coins, but in the UK it's treason, and in the US it's scarily illegal. I'm not saying don't do it, I'm just saying don't get caught.
 
Remove these adsRemove these ads by Signing Up

Step 1: Make the Stack

WE're using cupro-nickel and brass for this. These two metals create a nice contrast and weld fairly easily, and are also readily available ;0
The really important thing in the process is to get good welds, and to stop the hot metal from squirting across the shop. To do this, we make a set of pressure plates, to keep everything locked still.
To make pressure plates, get some thin steel strap or strip, whatever you want to call it, (B+Q for UK readers) and cut about 2.5 inches off the end. Put it back onto the strip of steel, and drill holes, for rivets to go through. I think the pictures explain this best. After you've got the drilled plates, assemble a stack of alternating metals. The metals you use must have similar working properties and melting points.
Put the stack onto the bottom part of the pressure plate, put the top part of the pressure plate on top of the stack, and rivet them together. This is actually qiute tricky. My best advice to you: Be Creative.
rvrfinn says: Jun 25, 2010. 8:35 AM
US pennies are made of a zinc core with a thin coating of copper, NOT cupro-nickle. the zinc is very different in it's reactivity, and if you get it too hot you'll just en up with zinc and brass. Micht still work, but you'd have to vary things a bit
DIY-Guy in reply to rvrfinnNov 5, 2011. 1:43 AM
U.S. pennies from 1983 (or is it 1982?) and forward are zinc with copper plating.

U.S. pennies 1981 and earlier are definately copper and not zinc.

On an interesting side note, a coin dealer in the U.S. told me that legally pennies are "tax tokens" and thus not covered under the defacement laws. And those laws about defacement are about changing the face value of a coin or paper scrip, to prevent fraud. It's technically legal to do these various things to coins and many cut-coin jewelry necklaces exist due to the specific nature of the laws.
woobis says: Apr 4, 2011. 4:55 AM

Just a note. IT IS NOT ILLEAGLE to deface British coins. I know several people who cut out details for jewellery or punch holes through pennies to use as cheap washers. Same for most EU regions.

Please fact check.
ShadeStride says: May 24, 2010. 4:50 PM
To my understanding any acid based product could potentially etch the layers. You could fool around with using ketchup, mustard...lol Boiling sprite, heated vinegar. Mustard and ketchup would effect the metals differently, maybe causing different corrosion colors. I would just fool around with anything that has an acid content and see what happens. If you dont like the result just sand it off and try something else.

-ABS Bladesmith
kurth92 says: Dec 3, 2008. 4:58 PM
oh an im guessing ur also a blacksmith and have done damascus steel before so yeah my point is that damascus steel is normally acid etched to reveal the layers can and should this be done with Mokume-Gane????
NELSONGA in reply to kurth92Jan 23, 2009. 7:27 AM
POLISH YOUR PIECE SMOOTH, THEN ETCH IT IN FERRIC CHORIDE TO BRING OUT THE PATTERN. THE FERRIC CHORIDE WILL EAT THE COPPER AND LEAVE THE NICKEL VIRTUALLY UNTOUCHED. IT DOES NOT TAKE LONG SO WATCH TAKE IT OUT AND LOOK AT IT AFTER A SHORT TIME FRAME.
Vendigroth (author) in reply to NELSONGAJan 23, 2009. 8:09 AM
NO, DO NOT POLISH YOUR PIECE SMOOTH, THEN ETCH IT IN FERRIC CHLORIDE TO BRING OUT THE PATTERN. THE FERRIC CHORIDE WILL EAT THE COPPER AND LEAVE THE NICKEL VIRTUALLY UNTOUCHED. THE COPPER, HOWEVER WILL REMAIN IN HTE FERRIC CHLORIDE AND REDUCE ITS CAUSTIC POTENTIAL. Time reveals the contrast between hte layers best, in my experience. Furthermore, when you're polishing, the layers will be of different hardnesses, so will be affected by the polishing compound at different rates, leading to a slight topography.
dmcgraw7 in reply to VendigrothApr 7, 2010. 5:11 PM
Galvanic etching with copper sulfate is easy.  It is much easier to dispose of than ferric chloride.
kurth92 in reply to VendigrothAug 5, 2009. 9:52 PM
yeah thats wat a acid etch dose on Damascus eats the different metals at different rates revealing the pattern so becuase these metals arn't as tough as steel just don't leave them in there for long or use a mild acid like vinegar
Ukealyptus says: Jan 6, 2010. 7:02 PM
wicked cool!
pyrotechnical says: Nov 11, 2008. 6:52 PM
would the zinc content of a U.S. penny be something to avoid when making this? Not sure if it would be anything like forging or welding with galvanized metal.
spylock in reply to pyrotechnicalJan 6, 2010. 12:45 AM
Older U.S. pennys are copper,the 1943 was zink,I think,and the new ones are alluminum,another words junk.And if you ever work with galvanized,be careful the fumes are toxic.
Vendigroth (author) in reply to pyrotechnicalNov 12, 2008. 4:33 AM
I'm not sure what the zinc content of a U.S. penny is. However, if you think it's unsafe, by all means, don't do it. I'm fairly sure that your quarters are brass and cupro-nickel, which is the combination I used here.
pyrotechnical in reply to VendigrothNov 12, 2008. 4:23 PM
quarters dimes and nickels are cupro-nickel. Nickels have the biggest amount of copper in them. Once I build my forge I'm going to do this. I'll post some pictures. Sweet Instructable by the way.
Moonrabbit says: Feb 25, 2009. 8:58 AM
I love the work you do. Do you think your propane furnace for glass melting would do the trick for this? I'd prefer to work with something broader and flatter so I could make something more than a small medallion. It would also make it easier to score and dent the backside and polish the front rather than having to drill and lose materials. Particularly if I'm working with precious metals.
kurth92 says: Dec 3, 2008. 7:07 PM
also is there a problem with using a coke or charcoal forge????
kurth92 says: Dec 3, 2008. 5:48 PM
sorry i keep think of more Qs so can ferrous metals bee used like stainless?? with other metals?
kurth92 says: Dec 3, 2008. 4:38 PM
oi thanks heaps for this i was just wondering why you don't use a flux???
Crazy Pyro says: Sep 18, 2008. 7:58 PM
Hey Vendigroth, how many disks were needed to make that stack?
Crazy Pyro in reply to Crazy PyroSep 21, 2008. 2:35 PM
wow. so they get really compacted huh?
Vendigroth (author) in reply to Crazy PyroSep 20, 2008. 8:18 AM
Seven or eight. Maybe nine.
2k4u says: Jul 21, 2008. 8:54 PM
Should I use Pre-1982 US pennies or Post-1982 ones?..Pre has more copper, less zinc...Post has More zinc, hardly any copper.
Vendigroth (author) in reply to 2k4uJul 22, 2008. 3:40 AM
I'd advise you to stay away from stuff using zinc, the fumes can be dangerous. I understand quarter-dollars are brass sandwiched between cupro-nickel, which gives good contrast. Try welding quarter-dollars.
abbabibble2 says: Mar 22, 2008. 12:55 AM
you can really vary the patterns in this depending on how you score the surface after working it. I tried this today and it was surpisingly easy for me. You really don't need it to be yellow hot. The color i got it to was a bright neon orange like in the picture there and it worked fine. The trick is once you've got it to color give it relatively light taps to encourage the pieces to bond. Don't go smashing on it right off. Go about 25-40% strength hits. anyways, Worked great Vendigroth! plus i'm helping out the US economy!
meta26.jpg
Vendigroth (author) in reply to abbabibble2Mar 22, 2008. 6:36 AM
Yeah, once they're at welding heat, all you need to do is lightly bring the pieces together. Hitting them too hard runs the risk of making pieces of hot brass fly everywhere. I might make a big block, maybe 2 or 3 of these stacks welded together, and see what i can make with it.
toogood says: Dec 21, 2007. 12:14 AM
kind of like damascus:
damascus2.jpg-damascus.jpgderr1.jpg
BARBARIANROCKER in reply to toogoodMar 10, 2008. 4:43 PM
man toogood that's a beautiful hatchet.+++++
toogood in reply to BARBARIANROCKERMar 20, 2008. 9:50 AM
yeah, I wish I could make one like it
Vendigroth (author) in reply to toogoodDec 21, 2007. 4:27 AM
YES! I've been playing with damascus, but i'm having trouble getting the heat.....time to upgrade perhaps.
toogood in reply to VendigrothJan 2, 2008. 9:25 AM
You might not be able to but if you can I suggest you go on Peat oberons damascus and Mokume course . tap://www.school-of-blacksmithing.co.uk/
toogood in reply to toogoodJan 2, 2008. 9:36 AM
lazemaple says: Feb 27, 2008. 10:55 AM
Would a vise or vise grip pliers work??? Or is that too much of a heat sink? Thanks for the great Instructable btw, I've been itching to try this for a while now. Aurora
lazemaple in reply to lazemapleFeb 27, 2008. 1:25 PM
Ha! Never mind; tried it with some copper and brass sheet... not so wonderful =)

Aurora
Vendigroth (author) in reply to lazemapleFeb 27, 2008. 2:05 PM
Oh dear. What went wrong?
Vendigroth (author) in reply to lazemapleFeb 27, 2008. 11:06 AM
It's just far too much mass to heat up, you're better off clenching the stack of metal between 2 iron plates.
lazemaple in reply to VendigrothFeb 27, 2008. 7:26 PM
I concur =) Will try that the next time around.

Aurora
lazemaple in reply to VendigrothFeb 27, 2008. 7:24 PM
It did work enough to fuse the pieces, not really neatly though because some copper melted off and balled up. Will try drilling tomorrow after work when I have more time. Aurora
Vendigroth (author) in reply to lazemapleFeb 28, 2008. 3:02 AM
With copper and brass, you're not likely to get a great contrast. I'm looking forward to seeing what you make!
lazemaple says: Feb 26, 2008. 2:06 PM
So then all the metal that is drilled out... do you pile it on for the second heating or discard it? Auroro
Vendigroth (author) in reply to lazemapleFeb 27, 2008. 7:58 AM
You get rid of the metal shavings from the holes, turn the piece hole-side-down and hammer it (while hot) until the holes fill themselves.
lazemaple says: Feb 26, 2008. 10:28 AM
What about using steel nuts and bolts instead of rivets? Would that work? Aurora
Vendigroth (author) in reply to lazemapleFeb 26, 2008. 1:04 PM
Yes it would. I onlu use the rivets because i've got a lot of nails and rather few bolts. Thing is, though, you might squish the bolt, and have to cut through it to separate the plates.
toogood says: Feb 25, 2008. 12:12 PM
nepheron says: Feb 3, 2008. 6:33 PM
have you ever tried to forge weld silver? will it work?
Vendigroth (author) in reply to nepheronFeb 4, 2008. 10:14 AM
I tried welding silver and brass, but the stack just melted down. Yes, it will work, but for god's sake watch the temperatures.
nepheron says: Feb 2, 2008. 7:14 PM
wow vendagroth!!!!! You really outdid yourself thistime! Wow is all I can say to this masterpiece. I have always loved your instructbles as your workshop is quite simmiliar to mine. keep up the good work
Vendigroth (author) in reply to nepheronFeb 3, 2008. 5:07 AM
Thanks a bunch!
ll.13 says: Nov 13, 2007. 1:23 AM
You CAN make Mokume out of coins, but in the UK it's treason.

We were once camping right next to a rail-way track with trains going past every ten minutes, so armed with a 10p. coin (I would of used a penny/2penny piece but 10 was the smallest amount I had) put it on the track with a leaf covering it (there was a footpath crossing there) and so the train went over it and I now have a nicely squashed 10p. =) ...and I still have it.

-I thought it was only "treason" if you defaced it, then tried using it again.? -not that it matters anyway. =)
Vendigroth (author) in reply to ll.13Nov 13, 2007. 4:07 AM
I thought that destroying the currency was treason, Eh, well. It's never stopped me in the past.
jtobako in reply to VendigrothNov 13, 2007. 6:56 AM
At some points in history, it was, but I think most of the reason was that it had the current monarch's image on it : ) In the US, it's illegal if you try to spend it after altering it OR, now that metal prices are so high, if you are melting down large amounts for scrap-less than $5 shouldn't be a problem because that's the limit on what you can/are suposed to take out of the country in coin (according to the US Mint). There are some tutorials about "$1.50 mokume" made out of 6 quarters.
masterochicken in reply to jtobakoDec 18, 2007. 4:51 PM
In the U.S. it's pretty much only pennies that they care about, because the copper in one is worth more than a cent.
toogood in reply to masterochickenDec 21, 2007. 12:20 AM
a 2p coin is worth 3p in copper I think
jtobako in reply to masterochickenDec 18, 2007. 5:54 PM
Well, most pennies are now zinc, and the regulations include nickles.

Here and here.

Then again, there are exceptions made for jewelry and such...
masterochicken in reply to jtobakoDec 18, 2007. 6:17 PM
Most pennies are older though.
jtobako in reply to masterochickenDec 18, 2007. 7:32 PM
Life of a coin is about 25 years-and I've been looking at pocket change and not found a lot of pre-83 pennies.

Sorry, 30 years (here), which means that most of the copper pennies are out of circulation.
masterochicken in reply to jtobakoDec 19, 2007. 1:32 PM
Well okay then.
John Smith says: Nov 12, 2007. 2:41 PM
Good job, but I'd like to see close-ups of it, please.
I'm planning on making a forge, propane powered, lined with Kaowool, with an inner chamber of 6" x ~12" (I think). I'd already have it done, but seeing as I only have $30, and I need $40- $47 worth of Kaowool, and the high pressure regulator, ITC-100, tank (of propane), hose, valve, and fittings, I think I'm gonna wait until Christmas.
What forge do you use (what does it run off of, and how big is it )?
Vendigroth (author) in reply to John SmithNov 13, 2007. 4:08 AM
I'm using a hollowed-out breezeblock and a bernzomatic blowtorch running on propane. That's how easy it is.
jtobako in reply to VendigrothNov 13, 2007. 6:45 AM
If you have the $30, get the regulator and make the burner, the forge body doesn't have to be kaowool and you certainly don't need the ITC (nice, but not necessary). The forge body could be made of coarse adobe, firebrick, metal shell surrounded by vermiculite or sand (not efficent, but doable)...
Patrik says: Nov 12, 2007. 3:54 PM
Could you use wire to create patterns as well? For example, you could make a tight flat spiral from two different types of metal wire, and sandwich that between the top and 2nd coin. Just wondering...
Patrik in reply to PatrikNov 12, 2007. 3:58 PM
Also, could you drill holes in the coins before welding them? Seems like you could get a more random pattern that way. Or would the trapped air between the coins create havoc with the welds?
ironsmiter in reply to PatrikNov 12, 2007. 9:41 PM
using wire, and/or pre-drilled layers is not a good idea. the air pockets will cause oxides to form, and prevent proper joining. This is actually a fun and funky form of soldering/brazing. not welding. Brass becomes both a structeral layer, AND the braze. so tempature control is VERY important, as is a clean joint. Also, while hammer forging works pretty well, if you can afford to get one(or know an art department that'll let you use thiers) a rolling mill will produce more even results, and faster. tri-colored brass/nickle/copper works well too... but as always, the more metals you add, and the greater the difference in their melting points, the more controlled your temps must be. For production work, an electric kiln is advised(one for ceramics, OR enamel will get plenty hot enough.
pyelitegamerro76 says: Nov 12, 2007. 7:39 PM
in the us, defacing money is not illegal. it is illegal to deface the money and try and use it as regular currency so basically if you deface money you are forfeiting the value that it represents.
Ora says: Nov 12, 2007. 7:00 PM
For anyone in the US, defacing money is not illegal, unless the purpose is to upset the economy. So a few coins should be no problem.
Pat Sowers says: Nov 12, 2007. 1:06 PM
This is cool! Good work
Vendigroth (author) in reply to Pat SowersNov 12, 2007. 1:22 PM
Now you've got the leverage you need to get your mum to let you have a forge!
Pat Sowers in reply to VendigrothNov 12, 2007. 3:05 PM
i dont know why the pictures are so dark but if you need new ones tell me.
Pat Sowers in reply to VendigrothNov 12, 2007. 3:04 PM
this is it
C:\Documents and Settings\Owner.DEN-COMPUTER\My Documents\My Pictures\2007_11_12\IMG_0028.JPGC:\Documents and Settings\Owner.DEN-COMPUTER\My Documents\My Pictures\2007_11_12\IMG_0027.JPGC:\Documents and Settings\Owner.DEN-COMPUTER\My Documents\My Pictures\2007_11_12\IMG_0026.JPG
Vendigroth (author) in reply to Pat SowersNov 13, 2007. 4:10 AM
Very good, but it'd be better if it were heat-treated. I really like the lines on that one, it looks like a thin tanto.
Pat Sowers in reply to VendigrothNov 13, 2007. 12:28 PM
Next time we use the grill I am going to give it a heat treatment. I would have made it broader but I wanted it to be long. I am going to make a handle and sheath from the same peace of wood so when you put the two together it looks just like a peace of wood.
Vendigroth (author) in reply to Pat SowersNov 13, 2007. 12:40 PM
Great! Remember: Heat it to non-magnetic, then let it air cool back to room temperature, then, heat it again and quench it in light oil. Scrape your file along the edge, it should just skate off without cutting. IF it cuts into the steel, file a bit more, you might just have some decarburisation. Sand the black oxide off one side gently (it's brittle!) and heat it 'till the tempering colours appear. Hardening is best donme in dim light, and tempering is best done under daylight, if possible. Good luck.
Pat Sowers in reply to VendigrothNov 13, 2007. 1:51 PM
Its cold out now so I will have to heat-treat it when it gets worm agen. Just another set back :(
Pat Sowers in reply to VendigrothNov 12, 2007. 1:46 PM
I hope! But I have been doing some cool things without heat. I am still using hardenable steel (carbon steel) but I can forge it without the heat. I will go get a pic of something... (Give me like an hour to finish this one thing up.
fungus amungus says: Nov 12, 2007. 12:03 PM
Could you find a picture to put in the intro? That's all you're missing.
Vendigroth (author) in reply to fungus amungusNov 12, 2007. 12:07 PM
I shall do so momentarily. Also, is now a good time to tell you that i can't find this iBle in the search function?
fungus amungus in reply to VendigrothNov 12, 2007. 2:48 PM
It's there.
Pro

Get More Out of Instructables

Already have an Account?

close

PDF Downloads
As a Pro member, you will gain access to download any Instructable in the PDF format. You also have the ability to customize your PDF download.

Upgrade to Pro today!