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This is pretty simple and quite short....
A BOLT VICE is a simple 1 or 2 or more screw VICE, that is used to mainly hold timber while carving it or clamping a glued joint etc.
This model has 2 x 8" coach bolts - with 2 nuts per bolt, and 2 washers per bolt,
ONE big piece of wood sawn length ways in two,
A centering mark gouged in the front ; and
TWO strips of cloth reinforced THIN rubber strips.
This is pretty simple and quite short....
A BOLT VICE is a simple 1 or 2 or more screw VICE, that is used to mainly hold timber while carving it or clamping a glued joint etc.
This model has 2 x 8" coach bolts - with 2 nuts per bolt, and 2 washers per bolt,
ONE big piece of wood sawn length ways in two,
A centering mark gouged in the front ; and
TWO strips of cloth reinforced THIN rubber strips.
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Signing UpStep 1How to Construct.
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I had to make a "Bolt Vice" so I could carve up some timber sections - from near on eye level - while seated - from the side.
So it's just made for holding wooden parts or blanks - up to about 60mm (2 -1/2") thick.
The sizes of the finished parts can be varied and they can be mounted in a vice or bolted to the bench top.... it's your call.
The advantage of this design is that it's strong enough to do the job of HOLDING the wood while it gets carved with a chisel and small rubber mallet.
Most wood clamps are not strong enough and most "metal" vices lack the "above the deck" or ability to hold BIG pieces of timber horizontally.
OK the finer details of the construction.
With timber, one needs WIDE bearing surfaces to distrubute the compressive forces of the bolts onto a large area of wood - otherwise the HEX heads or nuts pull into the timber.
Coach head bolts have a large head on them - relative to hex heads....but hex heads are fine too - but they need BIG washers under them;
The only advantages to coach head bolts are that the heads have a LARGE bearing area, they are a shallow dome AND the coach bolts have a square locking key under the head that pulls into the timber and allows the bolt to be tightened from one side only with only one spanner.
The 2 nut system - being that ONE nut is used to clamp the jaws together, the second nuts are glued onto the end of the bolt thread with clear nail polish to perform the functions of protecting the thread, and protecting the user from the sharp(ish) ends of the bolts.
The rubber strips between the jaws and the work are only for grip.
I machined up some curtain rod tube into a wad cutting punch and then popped a few holes in the rubber strips to make the strips stay in position - within the assembly.
The "gouged in" centering mark is simply an easy visual guide to encourage the centering of the jobs in the bolt vice.
I had to make a "Bolt Vice" so I could carve up some timber sections - from near on eye level - while seated - from the side.
So it's just made for holding wooden parts or blanks - up to about 60mm (2 -1/2") thick.
The sizes of the finished parts can be varied and they can be mounted in a vice or bolted to the bench top.... it's your call.
The advantage of this design is that it's strong enough to do the job of HOLDING the wood while it gets carved with a chisel and small rubber mallet.
Most wood clamps are not strong enough and most "metal" vices lack the "above the deck" or ability to hold BIG pieces of timber horizontally.
OK the finer details of the construction.
With timber, one needs WIDE bearing surfaces to distrubute the compressive forces of the bolts onto a large area of wood - otherwise the HEX heads or nuts pull into the timber.
Coach head bolts have a large head on them - relative to hex heads....but hex heads are fine too - but they need BIG washers under them;
The only advantages to coach head bolts are that the heads have a LARGE bearing area, they are a shallow dome AND the coach bolts have a square locking key under the head that pulls into the timber and allows the bolt to be tightened from one side only with only one spanner.
The 2 nut system - being that ONE nut is used to clamp the jaws together, the second nuts are glued onto the end of the bolt thread with clear nail polish to perform the functions of protecting the thread, and protecting the user from the sharp(ish) ends of the bolts.
The rubber strips between the jaws and the work are only for grip.
I machined up some curtain rod tube into a wad cutting punch and then popped a few holes in the rubber strips to make the strips stay in position - within the assembly.
The "gouged in" centering mark is simply an easy visual guide to encourage the centering of the jobs in the bolt vice.
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