Step 1: 1.Cut Your Pattern Pieces.
1.half a metre of satin fabric, (use a good quality one not a lining satin)
2.tailors tacking thread
3.size 70 machine needle
4.regular hand-sewing needle
5.matching cotton thread
7.bra block pattern
9. steam iron
10. bra rings and sliders
11. elastic and/or ribbon for bra straps (alternatively make your own using the same fabric as the bra)
13. measuring tape
16. fabric shears
17. paper scissors
18. felt pen
19. bra wire casing
20. bra wires
1.Cut your pattern pieces.
You will need the basic bra block for this tutorial. I followed the instructions of Ann Haggar’s pattern cutting book and altered the front seam for uplift and shaped the top cup. I have also chosen to use the side support seams. You can cut them in together with the front piece if you wish, but I chose not to, partly to save on fabric and partly because I decided a seam here would look nice!
A very important point: Cut all pieces on the bias. This will make them fit much better without stress lines.
Cut two of each piece. I have used the same fabric for the outer bra as for the inner, if you want you can chose a different lining, or why not get really experimental and use different fabrics for each piece! When cutting lingerie I cut an 8mm seam allowance.
Step 2: 2. Stitch You Garment Pieces.
Pin opposing cups right sides together and stitch along the top seam. Press the seam.
If you are using the side support seam, stitch the back strap to the front piece. Press the seam to set the stitches, then press the seam open and use a clapper to make the seam flat. If you wish you can do as I have done and top-stitch the seam allowances down. Trim the seam allowance close the the stitching.
Lay the two main bra pieces right sides together and pin. If the seam allowances don’t match exactly, don’t try to make them or you will end up with extra fabric on one side. Instead, trim the odd one down to fit. Again trim the seam allowance to about 3mm. Press.
Step 3: 3. Turning to the Right Side and Pressing.
Repeat this process when turning out the main bra panel. Press one seam at a time, don’t try to do both! Use the clapper to make the seams sharp.
Step 4: 4.Inserting the Cups.
Now gently ease the cups into their place on the bra. Start by pinning either end in place, then gently ease the cups in. You may need to go round once then go back again. Because you have cut them on the bias this should be fairly easy to do. Try not to stretch the fabric too much.
Step 5: 5. Stitching the Cups.
Trim the seam allowance to between 4-5mm. Gently steam and press with the point of the iron.
Step 6: 6. Trimmings and Straps.
Hand stitch on any embellishments such as bows. Apply the straps by folding under the raw edges and overcasting around the fold to the inner bra.
Backstitch the bra fasteners to the ends of the straps.