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Signing UpStep 1Step 1: Measurements
First you will need to make a couple measurements to calculate the amount of fabric you need. Make sure you write these down as you will also need them when we start pleating the kilt. Make sure you are using a fabric tailors tape, not a metal carpenters tape.
The only 2 measurements you will need are waist and knee length.
First is your waist measurement (measurement A in the picture). Don't use your pants size, kilts are worn much higher on the waist so measure around at your bellybutton, with the tape measure as parallel to the floor as possible. (This number will be divided by three and used extensively throughout this instrustable so if you want to round your numbers up to make the math easy go ahead. The difference can be covered by the front and under aprons.)
(Note: If your hip measurement is larger than your waist measurement then use your hip measurement. The belt will bring in the waist, or if you know how, go ahead and taper in the waist while pleating.)
Next is to measure your knee length (Measurement B in the picture). Kilts should go down to your kneecaps, ending right about the middle of your kneecaps. The best way to measure this is to kneel on the floor and measure from your waist line, at your bellybutton, down to the floor.
Record these measurements
Waist:
1/3rd Waist:
Length:
For example: my measurements are
Waist: 45 Inches
1/3rd Waist: 15 inches
Length: 24 inches
Now a few definitions:
Front Apron: The non pleated front of the kilt that shows when you wear the kilt.
Pleated Length: The heavily pleated length that comprises the back of the kilt.
Under Apron: The non pleated portion that wraps underneath the front apron when you wear the kilt.
Waist Band: The very top, unpleated portion that runs the length of the kilt.
The only 2 measurements you will need are waist and knee length.
First is your waist measurement (measurement A in the picture). Don't use your pants size, kilts are worn much higher on the waist so measure around at your bellybutton, with the tape measure as parallel to the floor as possible. (This number will be divided by three and used extensively throughout this instrustable so if you want to round your numbers up to make the math easy go ahead. The difference can be covered by the front and under aprons.)
(Note: If your hip measurement is larger than your waist measurement then use your hip measurement. The belt will bring in the waist, or if you know how, go ahead and taper in the waist while pleating.)
Next is to measure your knee length (Measurement B in the picture). Kilts should go down to your kneecaps, ending right about the middle of your kneecaps. The best way to measure this is to kneel on the floor and measure from your waist line, at your bellybutton, down to the floor.
Record these measurements
Waist:
1/3rd Waist:
Length:
For example: my measurements are
Waist: 45 Inches
1/3rd Waist: 15 inches
Length: 24 inches
Now a few definitions:
Front Apron: The non pleated front of the kilt that shows when you wear the kilt.
Pleated Length: The heavily pleated length that comprises the back of the kilt.
Under Apron: The non pleated portion that wraps underneath the front apron when you wear the kilt.
Waist Band: The very top, unpleated portion that runs the length of the kilt.
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Mike
Waist 31, so 1/3 is 10.3, so I "should" have 10 pleats, but there are only 9...
which would seem like that would make the kilt extra roomy, not less!
I did add the 6 inch panel to the under apron/waistband, so the waist is a bit, loose, and through the hips a bit tight.
Overall, it turned out fine and my son LOVES it! (he wore it to his high school Winter Formal dance!)
Thank you very much for the instructions. Is there a way to download them? (When I clicked on download PDF, nothing happened.)
I'm glad you could make it work.
You actually need to be Pro Member in order to download the PDF.
Mike
And when I say right-hand I mean your right.
Mike
Deviations:
> I made mine to sit just above my hips. I didn't attempt a "beer-gut cut"; for now it just sort of heads that way naturally. Hopefully when the beer-gut's gone it'll still fit nicely.
> Drawing on experience from my previous attempt, I tapered the pleats slightly from hips to waist. I didn't quite get them even, but it certainly fits well. The initial build was based on my hip measurement to allow tapering.
> Having done the tapering the waistband had to be curved, so I made it from two curved peices (following the top of the kilt as a guide) stitched back-to-back.
> Pockets are sewn on. I also added a pleat detail to the front of them and they only have one snap on the flap. And, having lots of "belt loop" left over, I put a tool loop on too.
> I stitched up the inner pleats. It certainly helps the way it hangs.
> I wasn't going to bother with the apron snaps, but having the front and under held together has vastly improved the way it behaves in motion.
So, thanks again. Another very happy customer. :)
I love seeing the modifications everyone does to their kilts. It's one of the reasons I made the instructions so simple and plain. That tropical print pattern on your kilt look totally cool.
Great job.
Mike
Mike
I may make one from some jeans that are worn out and have holes in the bottom.
Mike
Mike
Sorry the pics are dark, we took these at 3 am before he went back out on the road trucking. It did his partner in, he already doesn't know what to say when John is knitting a "boobie" headrest, now hes wearing a "Skirt" too!
And Yes its alittle "long" that will be fixed.
Mike
Well, I didn't add pockets, but here is my second attempt at a kilt. The first one came up a little bit short, barely touching the top of my knees. The wiastband is a bit puffy, but that is bcause of my not following directions, and is covered up by the belt.
Here's my version, without snaps on the front, cargo pockets sewed to the kilt instead of snapped, and added D-rings to the belt loops.
It was really easy to follow the instructions and now I've got myself a brand new kilt :)
i'm already thinking about making another one. thank you very much for sharing!
One of the big differences between this Kilt and the Utilikilt is that the Utilikilt is fitted to your waist & hip measurements. This usually means that at when you sew down the pleats in step 4 they are sewn at a slight angle, wider at the bottom and narrower at the top. This allows their kilt to have a better fit and drape when worn. The beer gut cut, as they define it, is when your waist measurement (at the bellybutton) is larger than your hip measurement, and it mostly protrudes at the belly.
Because this instructable isn't fitted to the waist / hip measurements, the beer gut cut is not as big a concern as with the Utilikilt, but I do have to concede this kilt does not look as good as a professionally made Utilikilt (or any of the other great Kilt makers out there).
If you're looking for that great fitted look I'd recommend making friends with someone who's adept at fitting/tailoring clothing and mooching for some help.
Mike