How to make a Cargo Kilt

Step 1: Step 1: Measurements

First you will need to make a couple measurements to calculate the amount of fabric you need. Make sure you write these down as you will also need them when we start pleating the kilt. Make sure you are using a fabric tailors tape, not a metal carpenters tape.
The only 2 measurements you will need are waist and knee length.

First is your waist measurement (measurement A in the picture). Don't use your pants size, kilts are worn much higher on the waist so measure around at your bellybutton, with the tape measure as parallel to the floor as possible. (This number will be divided by three and used extensively throughout this instrustable so if you want to round your numbers up to make the math easy go ahead. The difference can be covered by the front and under aprons.)
(Note: If your hip measurement is larger than your waist measurement then use your hip measurement. The belt will bring in the waist, or if you know how, go ahead and taper in the waist while pleating.)

Next is to measure your knee length (Measurement B in the picture). Kilts should go down to your kneecaps, ending right about the middle of your kneecaps. The best way to measure this is to kneel on the floor and measure from your waist line, at your bellybutton, down to the floor.

Record these measurements
Waist:
1/3rd Waist:
Length:

For example: my measurements are
Waist: 45 Inches
1/3rd Waist: 15 inches
Length: 24 inches

Now a few definitions:
Front Apron: The non pleated front of the kilt that shows when you wear the kilt.
Pleated Length: The heavily pleated length that comprises the back of the kilt.
Under Apron: The non pleated portion that wraps underneath the front apron when you wear the kilt.
Waist Band: The very top, unpleated portion that runs the length of the kilt.

Step 2: Step 2: Calculating the amount of material and getting supplies

A non-traditional American style kilt, like we are making here, has a front apron (the non pleated front part) of about 1/3rd the total waist line. (Aprons on traditional Scottish kilts are about 1/2 the length of the waist.)

To calculate the amount of fabric for the pleated part of the kilt take your waist measurement and divide by 3, then multiply by 8 and add an inch. This will be the length of the kilt fabric, the amount going around the waist. The width of the pleated part will be the knee Length minus 2 inches.

Pleated Portion length (this length will include what is needed for the front and under apron, do not add the front and under lengths to this): Waist measurement divided by 3 times 8, plus 1 inch seam allowance
Pleated Portion width: Knee Length minus 2 inches
Waist Band length: Waist measurement divided by 3 times 4 plus 1 inch seam allowance (wait until you finish the pleated portion to cut this piece, I will explain why in step 4)
Waist band width: 7 inches

The length of the fabric will need to buy is equal the the length of the pleated part of the kilt plus an inch for seam allowance (go ahead and get it a little longer for good measure). Make sure the width of the fabric is at least 9 inches wider than your measured length. This will leave you enough fabric left over for the waist band and pockets.

For example my waist measurement is 45 inches. The length of fabric I need will be at least 121 inches (45/3*8+1=121) or 3.3 yards. I rounded up and got 4 yards. The width of the fabric I got was 60 inches, I should have enough fabric to make 2 kilts.

You will need to have:
Sewing Machine (Not Pictured)
Iron (Not Pictured)
Scissors
Tailors Tape Measure
Pins
Fabric pencil or Chalk

You will need to buy
Fabric
Matching Thread
Interfacing (Enough to line the waist band)
22 Snap fasteners (plus the hardware to mount them)

Step 3: Step 3: Making the pleated portion

I'll be using 2 inch pleats in this instructable. This is deep enough for the pleats to hold well, and still looks good.

You will need to cut the pleated portion of the kilt from your fabric using the calculated numbers from step 2.

Once this is cut, fold over both ends 1/2 inch and sew a hem. Then fold the bottom over 1/2 inch and sew a hem here also. I want to note here that some fabric has a "good" or "Front" side and a "bad", "wrong" or "Back" side. When you hem the ends and bottom, fold over onto the bad side.

Once the edges are sewn, measure in 1/3 your waist measurement on each end and mark with your chalk. This will be the Front Apron and Under Apron.

Once you've marked your fabric you can begin pleating. I'm sure you have a very long legnth of fabric so do this on a very long table. place a large towel under the fabric because you will need to iron the pleats every so often.

With the hemmed bottom length of the fabric towards you and the unhemmed edge facing away you will start your first pleat on the right end of the fabric with the pleat going to the right. Measure 4 inches from your apron mark to the left and pull the fabric to the edge of the front apron. Make sure this fold is as straight as possible.

Next measure 6 inches from the fold and pull to within 2 inches of the fold. The fold on top should line up with back of the previous fold underneath.

Make sure as your pleating you measure the top and bottom of each fold to maintain 2 inch pleats. You will want to press the pleats with an iron after every 2 or 3 folds.

Once pressed, pin each pleat at the top, bottom and middle. Continue pleating until you reach the under apron mark on the other end of the fabric.

Once the entire length of fabric is pleated and pinned, bring it over to the sewing machine. Sew down each pleat at the edge of the fold from the top of the fabric down 5 inches. Sewing down the tops of the pleats will allow them to hold their shape much better.
(Note: You should take out the top pins as you sew down the tops of the pleats, but leave in the other pins while you are working on the kilt. It will make the kilt easier to work with. I'll usually remove them once I'm ready to attach the pockets)

Step 4: Step 4: Making the waist band

To make the waist band you will need a length of fabric 1 in longer than the top of the pleated portion and 7 inches wide. Remeasure the top portion rather than using the calculation as the length may not be exact after hemming and pleating.

Hem all 4 sides of the fabric over 1/2 inch.

Cut a piece on interfacing equal to the inside portion of the waistband and attach per the interfacing's instructions.

Sew 1 edge of the waistband to the back of the pleated portion, 1/2 inch from the top, lining up the ends.

Fold over, covering the front 1/2 inch from the top of the pleated portion, press and sew the edge and along the sides.

Step 5: Step 5: Attaching the fasteners

Now you can do what you all have been waiting for, try on the kilt.

Hold the kilt around your waist where you would naturally be wearing it. Wrap the left side over the right side until it is snug. Mark with a washable fabric pen where the waistband stops on the right (you may want someone to help with this).

Now place the kilt on a table face down with the waist band towards you. Fold the under apron (on your right) to the center of the kilt. Then fold the apron over the under apron matching up to the mark you had just made while wearing it.

Now you can mark where the snap fasteners will go. The will be about 1 inch from either end. This is a wide waistband so use 2 snaps at each end, on the top and bottom of the waistband. You will have 2 at the edge of the apron and 2 more through the apron to the edge of the under apron. Punching the hole through both layers at the same time is best to ensure they match up. Attach per the instructions that came with the snaps.

Now we'll attach some snaps to the face of the apron. This is for both decoration and to hold the apron down while wearing the kilt. There are several possibilities you can do in regards to the pattern. I usually run 2 rows of 3 tapering to the center. You can experiment by placing the snap tops in various patterns until you get something you like. Make sure the apron and under apron are centered before punching you holes through both layers of fabric (pin the apron and under apron together to prevent it from moving). Again, punch the holes through both layers at the same time to ensure they match up.

Step 6: Step 6: Making the belt loops

You will need a 1 inch wide strip about 30 or so inches long, depending on the number of belt loops you want. I use 7 belt loops as you will see below. The belt loops will end up about 1/2 inch wide.

You will need to fold the edged to the center of the strip. Pin the folded strip about every 3 inches.

Once it is fully folded and pinned you need to press it with an iron. Go a couple inches and then pull out the pin and continue to the next, removing pins as you go.

Once the entire strip is pressed take it over to the sewing machine and sew down each flap.

Cut the strip into shorter pieces, 1 inch longer than the width of your waistband. They should be about 4 inches

To attach the belt loops you will fold the ends over about 1/2 inch and sew to the top and bottom of the waist band. You are going through quite a few layers of fabric, so be sure you are using a strong needle and take it slow, moving your machine by hand if needed.

You can use what ever spacing you like for the belt loops, I use one on each end of the apron, one on each hip, one at the m\iddle of the back and one for each space between the loop at the back and between each hip fpr 7 total loops.

If you want you can wear the kilt as is now, but it is a cargo kilt so we'll move on to the pockets.

Step 7: Step 7: Making the pockets

We will be making the pockets separate from the kilt and then attaching them. This is both easy and allows the pleats in the kilt to move. We will have two side "Cargo" pockets and a back pocket. The measurements are approximate, don't sweat it if you're a little off. Also, feel free to make the pockets bigger or smaller if you wish.


First the back pocket. Cut a piece of fabric 7 inches wide by 15 inches long.

Hem both short edges 1/2 inch.

Fold 1 short edge over 5 inches, making sure the hemmed edge is facing out. Then fold the other edge over about 1 1/2 inches, again facing the hemmed side out. (there should be about a 1 inch gap between these flaps)

Sew the long edges together about 1/2 inch from the edge.

Once the pocket is sewn together turn it inside out, or rather rightside out since you should have sewn it together inside out.

Press with an iron.

Run another seam alone the long edge about 1/4 inch in from the edge. This will hold the flap in the gap down and keep your pocket flat.

Now fold the short end over the long, with the gap coming down over the front of the pocket and attach the snaps.


Now the cargo pockets.

First cut a piece of fabric 9 inches by 28 inches.

Hem the short edges 1/2 inch.

Fold 1 short edge over 9 1/2 inches, making sure the hemmed edge is facing out. Then fold the other edge over 2 inch, again facing the hemmed side out. (there should be about a 2 inch gap between these flaps)

Sew the long edges together about 1/2 inch from the edge.

Once the pockets are sewn together turn them inside out, or rather rightside out since you sewed them together inside out.

Press with an iron.

Run another seam alone the long edge about 1/4 inch in from the edge. This will hold the flap in the gap down and keep your pocket flat.

Now fold the short end over the long, the fold of the crease should be right in the center of the 2 inch gap. Then attach the snaps on the flap. (pictured are 3 snaps along the top. They will be to attach the pocket to the kilt and explained in the next step)

Step 8: Step 8: Attaching the pockets

To attach the pockets we will sew the back pocket to the kilt and use snaps to attach the cargo pockets, making them removable.

To attach the back pocket first put on the kilt and have someone help place the back pocket in a "natural" position. Have them pin it into place, butting the top of the pocket to the bottom of the waist band.

Once pinned, open the flap and sew through the back of the flap (in between the flaps) onto the kilt.

To attach the cargo pockets first get someone to help to place them in position and pin them. They should be positioned on your sides at the hip, about 3 or 4 inches down from the bottom of the waist band.

Once pinned, position 3 snaps across the top. The snaps will go all the way through the pocket, from the front to the back, as seen the the picture. The back part of the snap will go through the kilt allowing you to snap the pocket to the kilt, and remove the pocket if you want.

Step 9: Step 9: Enjoy

Now that you have your Cargo Kilt wear it and enjoy. Share your own pics in the comments.

Clean it per the fabric's directions, and use starch when ironing to help keep your pleats crisp.

Feel free to modify as you see fit. You can use buttons instead of snaps, or velcro to fasten the waistband. I think next I'll try attaching the cargo pockets with grommets and carabiners.

Step 10: Making wider pleates

Since I originally posted this I received an PM asking about making a kilt with larger pleats. It's a great question and one I think others would like to know. When using wider pleats you may end up with either too much or to little fabric and there could be a gap between your apron and the start of the pleats. To keep the kilt symmetrical you'll need to do the following.

Figure out your front apron length, under apron length, pleated length and total cut length as if you were using 2 inch pleats (see step 2 in the instructable).

Front apron and under apron length's are 1/3 your waist measurement.
Pleated length is 6/3 (or twice) your waist measurement
Total cut length is waist measurement / 3 * 8 + 1

To modify it for longer pleats decide your desired pleat length
Take your desired pleat length and multiply it times 3
Divide that by your pleated length. Use only the whole number, drop the remainder. This will be your total number of pleats.
Take your total number of pleats and multiply it times your desired pleat width times 3 and subtract from your calculated pleated length
Divide that number (which is in inches) by 3
Take that final number, add it to your front apron length, under apron length and subtract it from your total cut length.

Obviously you'll need to do these calculations before you cut your fabric.

Example: I have a 45 inch waist and I want 4 inch pleats
Normally (for 2 inch pleats) I'd have a 15 inch front and under apron, my pleated length would be 90 inches and my total cut length would be 121 inches as figured in step 2.
My calculations would be
4 in pleats * 3 = 12
12 / 90 = 7 (dropping the remainder)
7 * 4 * 3 - 90 = 6
6 / 3 = 2
New front and under aprons length is 17 inches
Total cut length is now 119 inches

I've tried this out on paper a couple times with different waist measurements and it seems to be correct. I have to recommend rounding your waist measurement up to a number divisible by 3 though, it makes the calculations much easier and when you test fit the kilt in step 5 you'll take in the difference and not even notice.

To check your math use these 2 formulas
Pleat width times # of pleats plus front apron length = your waist measurement
Pleat width times # of pleats times 3 plus front apron length plus under apron length plus 1 = total cut length

I know this is a little complicated but I hope it helps.

Feel free to message me if you have any more questions and post a pic of your completed kilt in the comments section.

Good Luck

Comments

[ata1anta]

Thank you very much! I found a big hunk of navy fabric in my stash that I hope is enough to try this out. I saw a long skirt on a kilt website that looked like it was based on a cargo kilt pattern but I can't afford the $$$ (and I'm perfectly capable of making my own!) I think it will go great with http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Steampunk-Corset/?ALLSTEPS to start to get my outfit together.

I'll be sure to post pics when I finally have it done.

[greedypaul]

successfully made my first kilt of urban camo flannel. it was just a trial effort. going to take on a heavier material next with 3" pleats overlapping to only show 1" of each. i dont know if that has a specific name, but i like the idea. also, rather than pleating one drecton continuously, i pleated to the mid point each direction so pleats would meet at the center of the back. i like the way it turned out.

[simboka]

I've been having issues with my pleats and fabric that I have to assume somebody's figured out a solution to already. But using the Jo Ann's heavy cotton duck, my pleats when I sit get splayed out. But when I stand back up, they don't fall back into place and I'll have to almost individually crease them back in proper form. Any thoughts? My thinking was to wash it more, because it does seem rather stiff still and maybe if it was more broken in, it'd fall into place easier.

[uglymike]

I used the same fabric from JoAnn's and have the same problem. I always use heavy starch when I iron my kilts, which gives a good crease but doesn't compleatly take care of the problem. I've taken to placing a couple of baste stitches where the kilt is pleated on the inside. Each pleat has a crease that shows and one that doesn't when you wear it. It's that crease that doesn't show you can stitch. Just go in about a 1/4 inch and hand stitch it close to the bottom. This keeps that part of the pleat from splaying out and helps everything to fall back into place. It's not perfect and if you find anything else that works let me know.

[simboka]

I brought this up on reddit's r/sew and starch was the initial idea too. I made a little stitch inside the pleat already to help me just to line it up better when ironing. But it's right on the edge, I'll consider moving it in more. It just seems like the fabric itself is a very stiff fabric. But since this instructable is 4 years old, I assume you've washed it enough that any amount of loosening up would've been achieved by now.

I also may try experimenting with both a heavier and lighter fabric.

http://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/comments/1au8fe/fabric_concern_kilt_pleats_stay_splayed_out_after/

[faeriegrove]

You all made this sound so easy and since I have a lot of sewing experience, it seemed do-able. It was looking great right up until the trying on part, only to find that there was not enough overlap of the apron part. The finished waist measurement is spot on, and I thought I was following all steps correctly, but now I will have to add about a 6-8 inch panel to the under apron for adequate "coverage". Where do you suppose I went wrong? Too many pleats? It does seem a bit narrow overall. Thanks for your help!

[uglymike]

Without seeing what you have I really can't speculate on what may have gone wrong. I can say that if you were going with the 2 inch pleats, the number of pleats in your finished kilt should equal your 1/3 waist measurement. In my example above, my 1/3 waist measurement is 15 inches and I have 15 pleats in my finished kilt. (I didn't plan that, it just works out that way) If you still need help feel free to PM me.

Mike

[faeriegrove]

thank you for the reply Mike!
Waist 31, so 1/3 is 10.3, so I "should" have 10 pleats, but there are only 9...
which would seem like that would make the kilt extra roomy, not less!

I did add the 6 inch panel to the under apron/waistband, so the waist is a bit, loose, and through the hips a bit tight.

Overall, it turned out fine and my son LOVES it! (he wore it to his high school Winter Formal dance!)

Thank you very much for the instructions. Is there a way to download them? (When I clicked on download PDF, nothing happened.)

[blhack]

Hey that looks awesome!

[uglymike]

Looks great! Congrats!
I'm glad you could make it work.

You actually need to be Pro Member in order to download the PDF.

Mike

[Mayhem_mike]

I dont know what I did wrong since I followed everything to a cue but it didn't work out? Can you help me I'm kinda pissed (not at anyone)

[uglymike]

It's a little hard to tell by the pictures but I'm going to guess the fabric wasn't wide enough before you started pleating. It also looks like you may be using a knit (stretchy) fabric which is hard with a project like this. You can probably salvage this by removing the first and last pleats. This will give you a wider front apron and you will have to make a new, wider waistband, but the alternative is to start over. If you try to salvage this one use a seam ripper (you can use a razor or x-acto knife if you're very careful) to remove the waistband and cut the stitching along the first and last pleats. Hold the de-constructed kilt around you're waist to make sure you have enough "coverage" in front. If it's good then measure the new width of the kilt and use that measurement to make a new waistband.
If you're up for giving this another shot from scratch PM me your measurements and I'll double check the math. There have been a handfull of people I've heard fom that have had some problems with that.
I'm sorry this project didn't go well for you and I've screwed up enough on my own to know how you're feeling. If you have any other questions or need any more help feel free to shoot me a message.

Mike

[Hockey Mike]

Thanks for the great instructions!!  With little sewing experience (but direct supervision from my wife) I was able to make a kilt for my 6 week old son.  I only had two modifications from your design (Other than reducing the size) and they were to use velcro to fasten it closed and the other was to work the pleats back from both the front apron and under apron.  When my store bought kilt wears out, I will probably be making my own (if I even wait that long)

[ctine1]

I could not find in the instructions where you hem the left and right side of the kilt. I am guessing it is before you sew on the waist band. Do you just fold each part over once or do the double fold over like the bottom?

[uglymike]

You are correct in hemming the sides before adding the waistband. Double-folding the edges will keep the edges from fraying and will look much more professional, but it's a personal preferance.

Mike

[rdailey4]

About how many hours does it take to make one of these kilts?

[uglymike]

4 to 5 hours if I don't get sidetracked and take a bunch of breaks. The first one I did over the course of 2 days and corrected a couple mistakes along the way.

[SewistCrazy1]

Thank you!

[WReynolds111]

im finaly getting in to making one.... and now there making it to where i cant view every photo.... this sucks... cause i needed those photos to help with knowing how to make it... i got 5 yards of fabric... im useing duck cloth... (dark blue) found at joanns in there Dectorative cloth area... for houses..... is there any way i can get this set of instructions emailed to me in a PDF... or something cause it wont let me download them... my email is [e-mail]

[Iridium7]

Is there any way to weigh down the Kilt so it won't flutter in the wind?

[rwintersgill]

its not really neccissary because it falls down easly but i use a big saftey pin on mine because i can use it for quick repairs if neccissary

[Leeshmonster]

You could also purchase a kilt pin. It's a heavy pewter pin (most of the ones I've seen are shaped like a sword) that attaches to the bottom right hand corner of the front apron.

And when I say right-hand I mean your right.

[Zanesfriend]

Supposedly, the custom of using the kilt pin arose when Queen Victoria was reviewing a Highland regiment an errant gust came along and exposed a private's---er, PRIVATES. The young man, it is said, blushed as red as his hair, but Her Majesty's only reaction was to pluck a pin off her dress and fasten it onto the kilt's apron; the weight was enough to hold down the fabric. Given the Sovereign's sanction, this custom spread throughout the Highland Regiments, and later into the civilian population.

[uglymike]

I suppose you could sew in some small weights (like fishing weights) into the bottom hem. Otherwise you could go the Utilikilt route and add a "modesty snap" that snaps the front to the back between the legs. They use it for their painters kilt to use while on a ladder, but it will also keep the kilt down in the wind. Plus you can always unsnap it on calm days.

Mike

[jward3]

Just stopping by to say thanks for this. I had a failed attempt at making a kilt (traditional method) years ago but your instructions inspired me to give it another go.

Deviations:
> I made mine to sit just above my hips. I didn't attempt a "beer-gut cut"; for now it just sort of heads that way naturally. Hopefully when the beer-gut's gone it'll still fit nicely.
> Drawing on experience from my previous attempt, I tapered the pleats slightly from hips to waist. I didn't quite get them even, but it certainly fits well. The initial build was based on my hip measurement to allow tapering.
> Having done the tapering the waistband had to be curved, so I made it from two curved peices (following the top of the kilt as a guide) stitched back-to-back.
> Pockets are sewn on. I also added a pleat detail to the front of them and they only have one snap on the flap. And, having lots of "belt loop" left over, I put a tool loop on too.
> I stitched up the inner pleats. It certainly helps the way it hangs.
> I wasn't going to bother with the apron snaps, but having the front and under held together has vastly improved the way it behaves in motion.

So, thanks again. Another very happy customer. :)

[uglymike]

Great looking kilt!! Glad to see you didn't give up. I know how difficult traditional kilts are, not a great project for a beginner, but they look awesome.
I love seeing the modifications everyone does to their kilts. It's one of the reasons I made the instructions so simple and plain. That tropical print pattern on your kilt look totally cool.

Great job.
Mike

[Iridium7]

So if I wanted to make a traditional Scottish kilt then do I take my waist and divide it by 2 and not 3?

[uglymike]

Actually making a traditional kilt is quite a bit different than what I have here. There are several good sets of instructions on the net so I'll just do an overview of what you'd be in for. Yes, the front apron is about 1/2 your waist measurement and the pleated portion makes up the other. The pleats are done a little differently. If you use a tartan plaid you need to figure out how often the pattern repeats and adjust the width of the pleat to match. The idea is to maintain the pattern of the plaid despite the pleats. The pleats are also usually deeper in traditional kilts which allows the kilt to hang/drape in a more attractive manner. Finally a traditional kilt is fitted to the wearer much better than what I have here. This is done by closing or opening the pleat at the top 4 to 6 inches. This makes for a better looking and fitting kilt, but is quite a bit more difficult. Maybe I'll do a full 'ible for a traditional kilt but right now I got quite a bit on my plate offline.

Mike

[Mike73]

This is awesome. I made a skirt once, too, but it didn't come out that cool. So I only used it at home. But still, it was very comfortable.
I may make one from some jeans that are worn out and have holes in the bottom.

[WReynolds111]

fantastic instructions and designes. im looking to get my step mother to do this for my birthday. and im several states away. so i guess this might be harder to do. but shes a seamstress and i hope she works her magic. im in the sca. and i wear kilts all the time. but i want one i dont have to fuss with so im wanting one of these. that and i would wear it any where else... Summer kilt for washington?? i think so!

[uglymike]

Sounds great. Since your step mom lives so far away I'd recommend having her skip step 5 (attaching the snaps) and doing it your self. It's much easier than the actual sewing and it will allow you to do the actual fitting to your own body. And living in Arizona I can firmly attest to how great a kilt is in the summer.

Mike

[WReynolds111]

step mom fell through so i will have my real mom do it but that was my plan...

[wedjlok]

Thanks for the great tutorial! I finished mine with bottom weight fabric easily and added Line 24 snaps for the enclosures. I also just sewed the pockets in place permanently.

[uglymike]

Looks Awesome! Thanks for posting the pic. Sewing the pockets on is really nice. I've done that with a couple of mine. Removable pockets are nice when you need to wash and iron it, but other than that they can sometimes get in the way.

Mike

[Rosilin]

Thank you! My Husband has wanted one of these for SO long, and now my 2 sons want one each! You have them Very happy!

Sorry the pics are dark, we took these at 3 am before he went back out on the road trucking. It did his partner in, he already doesn't know what to say when John is knitting a "boobie" headrest, now hes wearing a "Skirt" too!
And Yes its alittle "long" that will be fixed.

[uglymike]

Looks Great! Thanks for the comments and big props for posting the pictures.

Mike

[rhaubejoi]

AWESOME! You guys who are manly/secure enough to wear a kilt are real men! and I see from the pictures you guys are rockin them too! love it!

[uglymike]

I second that!!! I'd like to thank everyone who's posted pictures. Mike

[jack penny]

WEAR SOME UNDERWEAR, NO-ONE WANTS TO SEE YOUR JUNK IF YOU FALL OVER!!!!!

[uglymike]

Maybe it's just no one wants to see your junk if you fall over ; ) Mike