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Step 3Step 3: Making the pleated portion
I'll be using 2 inch pleats in this instructable. This is deep enough for the pleats to hold well, and still looks good.
You will need to cut the pleated portion of the kilt from your fabric using the calculated numbers from step 2.
Once this is cut, fold over both ends 1/2 inch and sew a hem. Then fold the bottom over 1/2 inch and sew a hem here also. I want to note here that some fabric has a "good" or "Front" side and a "bad", "wrong" or "Back" side. When you hem the ends and bottom, fold over onto the bad side.
Once the edges are sewn, measure in 1/3 your waist measurement on each end and mark with your chalk. This will be the Front Apron and Under Apron.
Once you've marked your fabric you can begin pleating. I'm sure you have a very long legnth of fabric so do this on a very long table. place a large towel under the fabric because you will need to iron the pleats every so often.
With the hemmed bottom length of the fabric towards you and the unhemmed edge facing away you will start your first pleat on the right end of the fabric with the pleat going to the right. Measure 4 inches from your apron mark to the left and pull the fabric to the edge of the front apron. Make sure this fold is as straight as possible.
Next measure 6 inches from the fold and pull to within 2 inches of the fold. The fold on top should line up with back of the previous fold underneath.
Make sure as your pleating you measure the top and bottom of each fold to maintain 2 inch pleats. You will want to press the pleats with an iron after every 2 or 3 folds.
Once pressed, pin each pleat at the top, bottom and middle. Continue pleating until you reach the under apron mark on the other end of the fabric.
Once the entire length of fabric is pleated and pinned, bring it over to the sewing machine. Sew down each pleat at the edge of the fold from the top of the fabric down 5 inches. Sewing down the tops of the pleats will allow them to hold their shape much better.
(Note: You should take out the top pins as you sew down the tops of the pleats, but leave in the other pins while you are working on the kilt. It will make the kilt easier to work with. I'll usually remove them once I'm ready to attach the pockets)
You will need to cut the pleated portion of the kilt from your fabric using the calculated numbers from step 2.
Once this is cut, fold over both ends 1/2 inch and sew a hem. Then fold the bottom over 1/2 inch and sew a hem here also. I want to note here that some fabric has a "good" or "Front" side and a "bad", "wrong" or "Back" side. When you hem the ends and bottom, fold over onto the bad side.
Once the edges are sewn, measure in 1/3 your waist measurement on each end and mark with your chalk. This will be the Front Apron and Under Apron.
Once you've marked your fabric you can begin pleating. I'm sure you have a very long legnth of fabric so do this on a very long table. place a large towel under the fabric because you will need to iron the pleats every so often.
With the hemmed bottom length of the fabric towards you and the unhemmed edge facing away you will start your first pleat on the right end of the fabric with the pleat going to the right. Measure 4 inches from your apron mark to the left and pull the fabric to the edge of the front apron. Make sure this fold is as straight as possible.
Next measure 6 inches from the fold and pull to within 2 inches of the fold. The fold on top should line up with back of the previous fold underneath.
Make sure as your pleating you measure the top and bottom of each fold to maintain 2 inch pleats. You will want to press the pleats with an iron after every 2 or 3 folds.
Once pressed, pin each pleat at the top, bottom and middle. Continue pleating until you reach the under apron mark on the other end of the fabric.
Once the entire length of fabric is pleated and pinned, bring it over to the sewing machine. Sew down each pleat at the edge of the fold from the top of the fabric down 5 inches. Sewing down the tops of the pleats will allow them to hold their shape much better.
(Note: You should take out the top pins as you sew down the tops of the pleats, but leave in the other pins while you are working on the kilt. It will make the kilt easier to work with. I'll usually remove them once I'm ready to attach the pockets)
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