So you want a blade?

I'm presenting here a basic set of instructions to make a neat little kiridashi; a small Japanese blade traditionally used for woodworking, carpentry and leatherwork. They make an excellent utility, woodwork, or compact knife for every day carry, perhaps as a neck knife.

I'm using stock removal techniques here, but forging can be used quite easily due to the simplicity of a kiridashi. I have some tools that few people will have access to- so as I go along I will offer alternatives for those who don't have the same level of tooling. This is suitable for beginners, and could even be used as a first knife project. You will need some metalwork skills and common sense. If you've never tried knifemaking before don't expect perfect results on your first try

Step 1: Tooling and Material Selection

Tools and peripherals required:
     -Saw or grinder with cutting disk (to rough out the blade)
     -Bench grinder or angle grinder with grinding/sanding disc (to rough grind the blade)
     -Vise, pliers/vise grips, clamps etc
     -Belt grinder (rough grinding and shaping)
     -Assorted files and sandpaper, sanding block
     -Forge, propane torch, grill or small fire
     -Drill and bits (if you want a lanyard hole)
     -Oil or water for quenching, suitable for the steel you choose 

A note on steel selection:
You need to use a good quality carbon steel which can be hardened and tempered. For the beginner without controllable heating equipment also avoid stainless steels as they can be tricky to heat treat. Don't use mystery steel that you don't know the composition of. Odds are you'll end up with junk that can't be hardened and will make a crappy shank, not a knife.

Good steel can be bought commercially or found in lawnmower blades, coil and leaf springs (coils will require forging), old saw blades, and old files. Don't chance it with junk
Dude! Truly epic, how did you get the black coloration on the knife? That's the only bit I missed...othersiwe great to build! :)
<p>i Got it !</p>
Here is a picture of the kiridashi I made, I used a old file, hard as heck btw, I did my cutting with a angle grinder with a cutting disk and a flap disk. To quench it we used a oxy-acetylene torch and did a straight quench. I made the sheath with thin veg tanned leather which I dyed with black fabric dye and used olive oil and petroleum jelly to seal it.
<p>The interest in knives (and all things sharp for that matter) is common to most men apparently. Browsing for <a href="http://www.classicshaving.com/razors/straight-razors.html" rel="nofollow">straight razors</a> a Kiridashi blade showed in the selection among other stuff. This tutorial helped shed some light on the Kiridashi subject and it's very useful for making one.</p>
<p>a larger version with belt sheath would make a great survival knife and hawk wrap the handle with paracord for lashing into a notched stick ;)</p>
i polish to 1500 grit on my jewelry and knives, 600 is good for a utility knife though. good work<br>
Even 400 is pretty good if you're short on time and the appearance isn't a big deal. A buffing wheel is a pretty quick way to get a good mirror finish (personally buffed finishes aren't my thing, and unless requested for a job I'd be unlikely to do it)<br><br>Another good finishing technique is using water or oil stones- various grades of stone are used to shape, finish and polish katanas traditionally- no acid, sandpaper, buffing etc.- these stones are still available from speciality places.<br><br>
Your blades would have to be so ridiculously flat to do that though. only master smiths can accomplish bevels that level and smooth...sandpaper will allow you to polish even imperfect blades, as the flexible surface conforms to any waves that might be leftover from your filing. i do however love my oil-stones for sharpening, they are my favorite method of honing chisels and such.<br>
If you really want flat surfaces, try putting sticky back sandpaper (wetordry) on scrap slabs of marble. You can get pieces of marble from kitchen remodelers. You can use 3/4&quot; thick glass to but I prefer marble, Get rolls of sandpaper in different grits and spray lightly with a water bottle. I sharpen chisels to a mirror polish and flatten hand planes this way. <br> <br>Google &quot;Scary Sharp&quot;. You can get paper at ridiculously fine grits. 1200 2500 3200.
I Agree. 400 is more than enough for a workong knife. 200 even better if you dont like to see the scratches. Beadblasting with glass is still best way to hide scratches in my opinion. I also make knves but they are not for display. They are meant to work. <br>
also, please check out my forging instructable and give your honest critique if you have the time<br>
nice job!
awesome, good job. did you re hardened your steel after making ?
Hi,<br><br>Yes- I initially annealed the steel to make it easy to work with. I then hardened the steel by heating and quenching, then tempering to increase flexibility and durability. This is covered in the heat treating section<br><br>Thanks :)
Nice !! 0(&gt; U &lt;)0
i like it, i want to try a few different design with some of my knives!

About This Instructable




Bio: 17 Years old, doing a Masters in Professional Engineering (chemistry/mechanical) starting at UWA next year. I like designing and building things, as well as ... More »
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