Step 8: Time to make it look good!

Picture of Time to make it look good!
So the digitiser works! If you managed to solder your peripherals to the USB and that they all work too, congratulations! Mine didn't work, and I didn't have time to make it work before I was recalled to my job at sea! Once I do make it work, I will update this Instructable.

What I did manage to do in time, was:
- Fit an extra hard-drive
- Attach the blanking plate to the Optical Drive and fit the Power Button.
- Enclose the entire tablet inside its own body, and make it fit for use.

In this step, we will focus on the optical drive bay, blanking it off, fitting the power button, and fitting a second hard drive.
First remove the motherboard. The last thing you want is a shard of aluminium or plastic messing up all your hard work and making the computer unusable. Remove the motherboard, clean it using compressed air (from a can, or a low-pressure compressor) and put it to one side.
Then remove the metal chassis part (fixed with three phillips screws) on the inside of the optical slot. Put it to one side. (Note, this is NOT the main chassis, its just the part which stops the optical slot from bending in!)
Mark the edges of the slot, and cut out the top part. Square off the bottom corners, and cut a piece of the waste-of-the-lid to fit in the hole. Make sure it fits snugly now!
After doing this, mark out where you want your power button to be situated. Mine is on the right hand side of the slot, because there is plenty of room to route the cables to the power button. Tape the plastic blank with masking tape, and then mark the hole for the plastic power button. Drill the hole, and make sure the power button fits. If it's recessed a bit, even better (less likely to switch on by itself!)
One the hole is drilled, take the metal chassis piece and fit it back into the base of the tablet. Mark a square where the tactile switch will fit. File out the square, making sure there is a good interference fit. You can alway epoxy the tactile switch in if its a bit loose.
Once the metal chassis is filed, the blank has the hole drilled, and the Power Button fits in place, snug and works; glue the blanking plate to the metal chassis, and use superglue to attach the blanking plate to the rest of the body.
By bonding the plate to the body, you retain a bit of it's structural strength!.

As for fitting a hard drive, it is as easy as buying a IDE to SATA caddy off eBay or Amazon (I bought this one secondhand: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005NC38HM/ ). I had a WD 500gb Scorpio hard-drive lying around and so I fitted that into the caddy first, and then secured the caddy into the optical drive bay. The caddy is as large as the optical drive, and so if you're wanting to fit extra peripherals, you may want to remove the IDE to SATA cable and make a smaller custom caddy!

I was going to fit an SSD as a boot drive, but as my geriatric 5400rpm 120gb boot drive is only dealing with Mac OSX and the applications, it seems to go like a rocket. I'll just save my money until it fails, as the second hard-drive has a Time Machine partition anyway.