Step 8: Time to Make It Look Good!

So the digitiser works! If you managed to solder your peripherals to the USB and that they all work too, congratulations! Mine didn't work, and I didn't have time to make it work before I was recalled to my job at sea! Once I do make it work, I will update this Instructable.

What I did manage to do in time, was:
- Fit an extra hard-drive
- Attach the blanking plate to the Optical Drive and fit the Power Button.
- Enclose the entire tablet inside its own body, and make it fit for use.

In this step, we will focus on the optical drive bay, blanking it off, fitting the power button, and fitting a second hard drive.
First remove the motherboard. The last thing you want is a shard of aluminium or plastic messing up all your hard work and making the computer unusable. Remove the motherboard, clean it using compressed air (from a can, or a low-pressure compressor) and put it to one side.
Then remove the metal chassis part (fixed with three phillips screws) on the inside of the optical slot. Put it to one side. (Note, this is NOT the main chassis, its just the part which stops the optical slot from bending in!)
Mark the edges of the slot, and cut out the top part. Square off the bottom corners, and cut a piece of the waste-of-the-lid to fit in the hole. Make sure it fits snugly now!
After doing this, mark out where you want your power button to be situated. Mine is on the right hand side of the slot, because there is plenty of room to route the cables to the power button. Tape the plastic blank with masking tape, and then mark the hole for the plastic power button. Drill the hole, and make sure the power button fits. If it's recessed a bit, even better (less likely to switch on by itself!)
One the hole is drilled, take the metal chassis piece and fit it back into the base of the tablet. Mark a square where the tactile switch will fit. File out the square, making sure there is a good interference fit. You can alway epoxy the tactile switch in if its a bit loose.
Once the metal chassis is filed, the blank has the hole drilled, and the Power Button fits in place, snug and works; glue the blanking plate to the metal chassis, and use superglue to attach the blanking plate to the rest of the body.
By bonding the plate to the body, you retain a bit of it's structural strength!.

As for fitting a hard drive, it is as easy as buying a IDE to SATA caddy off eBay or Amazon (I bought this one secondhand: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005NC38HM/ ). I had a WD 500gb Scorpio hard-drive lying around and so I fitted that into the caddy first, and then secured the caddy into the optical drive bay. The caddy is as large as the optical drive, and so if you're wanting to fit extra peripherals, you may want to remove the IDE to SATA cable and make a smaller custom caddy!

I was going to fit an SSD as a boot drive, but as my geriatric 5400rpm 120gb boot drive is only dealing with Mac OSX and the applications, it seems to go like a rocket. I'll just save my money until it fails, as the second hard-drive has a Time Machine partition anyway.
<p>Hi there!</p><p>I realize it's been a long time since you posted this Instructable, but I'm hoping you can help me with some issues I'm facing as I try to work this out. How did you manage to solder those tiny wires to those even tinier pins for the power connector? I tried and tried (I'm very new to soldering) and got so frustrated because there was just too much solder and then the pins wouldn't fit into the connector piece, so I resorted to using the connector as a base to hold the pins (thus partially melting the plastic in the soldering process). Should I scrap this now and try to find a replacement connector? And when you chose wires from a stripped USB, did they have to be black for ground and white for power? Or will any of the different color wires work? I have more questions but I'll start with these. I really appreciate the help!</p>
<p>Hi, sorry for the late reply!</p><p>For soldering the pins, I lay the pin and the wire close, tinned them both (depending on how &quot;very new&quot; to soldering you are, tinning is putting a dab of solder on the wire to help when you solder the wire to something else) and then dragged the solder from the wire to the pin. </p><p>I had a lot of breakages too, but I eventually got good enough to get it to work. Having thought about it, one thing you might want to do is create a breakout-board for the connector. A breakout is where you create a small PCB to attach the block to wires. The benefit of this, that the strain on both the block and the wires is significantly reduced.</p><p>As for the colour of the wires, any colour will do, but its best to keep to the USB standard colours for troubleshooting purposes. There's nothing more annoying than soldering the connector block up perfectly, only to notice that you've switched Data+ and Data-! </p><p>I really hope you managed to solve your problem, but please contact me if you need anything else!</p>
<p>saw this, woder if it works</p><p>http://jxlcd.en.alibaba.com/product/1552861987-218557672/100_brand_new_digitizer_touch_screen_for_macbook_fro_A1286_15_4_glass.html?spm=a2700.7803228.1998738836.4.cVkllt</p>
<p>Hi <br>I have started following the guide with a 15 inch unibody mid 2009 core 2 duo macbook i had laying around (of course following with major compromises since there very loosely similar) <br>I am running into issues with finding a digitiser that works with my display size (assuming 12 inch is nowhere near big enough), so I was wondering if you could maybe suggest a similar model to me</p>
<p>Hello! I assume its the 15.4&quot; size, and that will be fun to tear apart! A lot of a metalwork involved, right?</p><p>At the cheap end (and probably the easiest to obtain) would be a Toshiba Tecra M4 digitiser. I believe these screens go up to 14&quot; in size, so you'd still have some calibration issues. They are Wacom though, so the Wacom drivers should work.</p><p>At the expensive and possibly very hard-to-get is the Sony Vaio FIT 15A. This has a 15.5&quot; screen, and an N-Trig digitiser. </p><p>It might be worth asking on the Bongofish forums, as they are more likely to know a decent enough digitiser! Good luck, and let me know if I can help you at any other time!</p>
Smart that so cool
<p>I like it alot you should do it to a white unibody with 8gb ram to make a more powerful one</p>
awesome I would like one!
Would this work with a new macbook pro 2013 retina edition
<p>In theory, yes, but you probably want to check iFixit to see how to take the Retina Macbook apart, and how easy it would be to modify it to accept a digitiser. </p><p>I've had a look, and it would be very very difficult to do, but not impossible. Good luck!</p><p>https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/search/2013%20macbook%20retina%20pro</p>
<p>Confused by what?</p>
<p>Apologies, I believe that this comment may have been left by my daughter (she is only 9), she loves the Instructables site and uses my log in.</p>
<p>Can i make from other laptops such as samsung , acer or etc ?</p>
<p>It should be possible to. It all depends on how the screen is fitted to the case, and whether the case is symmetrical or not!</p><p>You may also need to step down a USB supply to 3.3v too. Hope this helps!</p>
Dude make me one
I really like this idea
cool app
ihave made a version like you said but used an old ipad screen and inserted a patch for multi touch capabilities now working on screen rotation
<p>Wow! Really? Can I ask how you managed to implement multi-touch and screen rotation?</p>
Where can u get the touch screen from for the tab u made
<p>It's not a touch screen. It's a normal laptop screen with a pen digitiser behind the screen. The digitiser can be found on eBay.</p>
What type of soldering station is that? It's beautiful.
<p>It's a Weller WHS40. 'Beautiful' is exactly how I would describe it too!</p>
What about a keyboard?
See the reply to Jovino, as they asked the same question.
What about multi touch gestures and a multi touch capacitive touchscreen with on screen keyboard
There's only single-point on this device, and thats via the pen. I believe you can get a multi-touch glass overlay to go on top of the screen, but getting it to fit inside the casing might be a problem. <br>I'm also not sure about whether OSX allows multi-touch or not, and I would assume if it did, it may only be limited to mouse-gestures.
I'm working on it. Lately I have almost no time to invest. Patience.
I have been working a cuople of weeks with a similar project. <br>I have the solutions to make a macbook tablet with a calibrated touch screen. <br>I have used tx1000 and tx2000 digitizer. Both are calibrated in mac os 10.7. In a few days I'll publish the &quot;how to&quot;. <br>Thank you MrQuiffster for the inspiration!
Fantastic, I can't wait to see the finished Instructable! <br>Hopefully you will inspire more people to give this project a go!
Link for the &quot;HP TX1000 Wacom Digitiser with cable&quot;? Will the TX 2500 work? <br> <br> <br>Looks like something like this? <br> <br>1. http://www.amazon.com/HP-TouchSmart-TX2-1000-SUBSTITUTE-REPLACEMENT/dp/B003YBJDMI/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1380947906&amp;sr=1-2-fkmr1&amp;keywords=hp+tx1000+wacom+digitizer <br> <br>2. <br>http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Full-12-1-LCD-Screen-touch-digitiser-for-HP-Pavilion-TX1000-TX2000-TX2500-/260997467748?pt=GPS_Screen_Protectors&amp;hash=item3cc4a94e64 <br> <br>3. <br>http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-Pavilion-TX1000-Complete-LCD-Assembly-w-Digitizer-Lid-Bezel-LCD-Screen-/290973494955?pt=US_Laptop_Screens_LCD_Panels&amp;hash=item43bf5f2eab <br> <br>4. <br>http://www.ebay.com/itm/hp-pavilion-tx1000-12-1-laptop-entertainment-PC-/331037989086?pt=Laptops_Nov05&amp;hash=item4d1366d8de <br> <br>Driver for the Digitizer?
I think the TX2500 will work, provided its a Wacom digitiser. Link 2, 3 and 4 would all work, but you can get just the digitiser on eBay, and stick it to the back of the Macbook LCD. If you're going to use the HP LCD, there could be some compatibility problems. <br> <br>As for the drivers, the generic Mac OS X drivers work alright. However, these are Wacoms drivers closest to this digitiser: ftp://ftp.wacom-europe.com/pub/Mac/cons505-3_int.dmg <br> <br>Hope that helps!
Can I make it with a MacBook Pro
In theory, you should be able to with the A1211, A1226 or A1260 models because they were built with the similar processes to the Macbook I used. However, the motherboards are completely different and you would have to do some research on iFixit to see if it'll work. <br> <br>If you're trying to do it with a unibody Macbook Pro, then thats going to be MUCH harder as the screen is glued to the lid, and you would potentially have to mill out the keyboard area. <br>If you do give it a go, good luck! It's a really interesting project and you'll learn a ton about Macs in the process!
You have serious skill man
Absolutely incredible:) wow
You should make more and sell them on eBay. I know I would buy one. :)
Just engrave an Apple logo on the back. Really awesome :-)
Epic dude just epic
Very kind! Thanks!
I've been thinking about doing this for a while, though I wonder if I could do it with a UC-Logic Digitizer? I've got one and I'm trying to make just the DIY cintiq with it, once I get that working maybe I'll feel a bit more adventurous and try making my old macbook into a tablet. <br> <br>Thanks!
Hi, sorry for the late reply! <br>If I remember right, the Bongofish forums have a fair bit of info on the UC-Logic boards, however, I'm not sure if it would be fully compatible with OSX. <br>Having said that, I wasn't sure my TX2000 digitizer would be compatible either, so have a bit of pioneering spirit and give it a go...or not! <br>Good luck!
What OSX can this run?
Its currently running 10.5, but with the chipset and motherboard, there's no reason it shouldn't run 10.6 or even 10.7 (I'm still running 10.6 on My Macbook Pro and have no experience of 10.7 Lion!)
Very creative and almost professional. Good job
You should show Apple that!
This was amazing!!

About This Instructable




Bio: Sailor in the Merchant Navy for work, hacking and modifying monkey on leave!
More by MrQuiffster:Staggered Pallet Planter How to make a Macbook Tablet 
Add instructable to: