I have been looking for a push pole for my 10' jon boat - sometimes the water is very low in my local river and I need a little help with sandbars.
A Push Pole is what a pole for punting is called.
Push poles in the US are usually sold in sporting goods catalogs for duck hunters.
I couldn't find one for a reasonable price online - the better ones were over 100 dollars.

So after looking at what was available online, I figured I could make my own first and see if it did the job.

I looked at all the extension handles available at Home Depot and settled on 
a 6' to 11'  handle from Mr Long Arm.  they make many different types and lengths, the one I choose was 6 foot of heavy yellow fiberglass with an aluminum extension which LOCKS using a positive latching method instead of a tension screw.  I had a hard time loosening the screw type in the store...out in the boat with wet hands I don't have a chance. 

Push Poles need a 'foot', most commonly they look like a Y or a T, like a polo mallet.  
I planned to make it from PVC of a similar diameter to the rest of the pole.

I also got some Stretch and Seal Silicone sealing tape (which has no adhesive of its own) because my T section doesn't fit snuggly on the butt end of my pole and I don't want it to fill with mud and water. 

1   Mr Longarm  (or other FIRM extension handle)
1   PVC T-connector
2   PVC End Caps
1   PVC short pipe
1   PVC Glue
1   Roll of Silicone sealing tape

Sharpy marker
Power Drill
1  drill bit narrower than the screws
4 1" Machine screws

Step 1: Measure the Foot

I am only using the pipe sections to connect the cap to the T section. 
The 2 caps and the T Section alone are as large a foot as I need. 
and it needs to be smooth with no cracks or unevenness where river plants can get tangled making it hard to pull up from the bottom. 

Insert the pipe into the T-Section and mark where it ends, then do the same with the cap. 
In my case each was about 3/4 of an inch, so i want a bit less than 1 ½" of pipe for my connector.  

I marked it ALL the way around the pipe, since it is easier to CUT the pipe by rotating than to try to cut straight down from one side to the other.

Good idea <br>
250 yrs ago all they used were wooden poles.<br><br>TY for sharing. I hope my commentaries don't cause too many headaches....was only trying to contribute.<br><br>You did good; you explained it good, the pics were good, it was an enjoyable read. TY
in the midwest, there is this stuff called &quot;JB WELD&quot;. it is an epoxy type adhesive...but it works on EVERYTHING. literally. it is also sandable, so if you have an area that is not real purdy, you can sand it till it is. then paint it. With JB WELD, you would not need that &quot;sock&quot; type of thing.
you would be correct...it is NOT reversible. once it is glued, that is the way it will be forever.
a file or sandpaper works great for getting rid of the burr. :)
when you are cutting PVC pipe or CPVC, the cut end does not have to be perfectly straight as long as you get enough pipe inside to hold the glue. I'm a retired plumber, this is how I know.

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