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How to make a RFID pet food access control system

How to make a RFID pet food access control system
In this instructable I will explain how to make a simple RFID pet food access control system. This system uses a stand-alone RFID system that can be purchased either pre-assembled or in kit form if you desire to do the soldering yourself, and also wish to save a few dollars in the process.

The reason I made this was out of pure necessity. I have two dogs, and when my vet placed one of them on a special diet I needed some way to ensure they ate their own food... and only their own food. Since they are open-bowl fed and I'm gone part of the day, I decided to look for a product that would do what I needed. This meant I wouldn't have to spend a great deal of time trying to re-train them and still give them the freedom to eat whenever they chose. This is where my frustrations begun...

****** CONTENT REMOVED - SEE BELOW ******

Frustrated with the situation, I decided to roll my own. This first version does the job, but I would eventually like to make the antenna extend around the entire perimeter of the bowl. If anyone has experience with RFID technology, I would appreciate any feedback that would assist in modifying the antenna into that configuration.

***** UPDATE *****
Anthony Targa, holder of patent #5570655 contacted me. Apparently he DID manufacture the device and it was featured in numerous Veterinary publications. Because of this, I fully retract my "patent troll" statement. I simply wish Anthony's device was produced on a larger scale so more people could have access to it.


 
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Step 1Materials and Tools

Materials and Tools

Materials



  • SK02 - 125 kHz Proximity Key Fob
    • The smallest quantity sold is a 10 pack. I asked QKits if they would substitute the access cards that come with the kit for the key fobs, and they did... I'm not sure if this was a "one off" case, but it doesn't hurt to ask. If they won't do this for you try contacting AVEA, the mfgr of the kit and see if you can purchase from them.


  • Project box
    • The dimensions of the box I used are 13cm x 7cm and was purchased at a local electronics dealer, but you can also buy them at Radio Shack.
    • The KL042 circuit board can be cut down to a min. size of 9cm x 5.7cm, so make sure your box is at least this size PLUS the dimension of your adaptaplug and buzzers.

  • Annoying buzzer(s)
    • Also available at Radio Shack

  • Wire or L-Bracket
    • Used to secure the box to the food bowl. I bent one side of an l-bracket to make a hook shape.

Tools


  • Dremel
    • In case you decide to resize the circuit board.

  • Hot glue gun

  • Drill
    • For adding the sound and adaptaplug holes. You can also use your Dremel if you have the bits.

  • Soldering gun & solder
    • If you buy the unassembled version of the kit.
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58 comments
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Jul 29, 2011. 6:00 AMCuteLunchLady says:
Totally groking this idea - I've two cats - one of which like to steal the other's food, and knock the water dish about. I'm going to put both food/water bowls in a separate box for each cat - and make both lids openable via the RFID tag on their respective cat's collar. This should stop our big boy from knocking the food and water dish about, as I can make the boxes with plenty of weight - and he quite literally can't access his step-sister's food.

Thank you for the wonderful idea! I'm sure this is the solution to the issue at our house.
Dec 1, 2010. 2:21 AMPader says:
Aas an alternative for a brush (which may be difficult to clean), a carousel of some sort or even an Archimedian screw in a tube. Obviously, they both will require some sort of timing.
Aug 2, 2010. 7:44 AMmdelzo says:
is there a way that this device could be battery operated?
Apr 26, 2010. 2:11 PMberdellmc says:
 There is another option for people who need to keep certain pets away from either food or cat litter. Check out www.meowspace.biz. They offer a product that will work for cats or small dogs. It's new, so I imagine at some point they'll offer larger ones as well. My roommate uses two of them. One to keep his dog out of the cats' food, and the other to keep the same dog out of the cats' litter. It's a bit spendy $150, but he said the $300 he paid for both has saved his sanity, and his dog hasn't been sick from eating cat feces and cat poop since he started using them. These units work with magnetic door openers, but I've ordered one from them special to use with an rfid door since my cat needs to eat different food from his, so my cat has a different access than his cats, and they can't eat my cat's food. I'm paying a bit more to get the rfid model $210, but I see what it's done for my roommate, and it's well worth it in my opinion. They also look pretty classy. check it out.
Sep 14, 2007. 4:35 PMMexicoman says:
Ummm... Not as a complaint, but you and others that use acronyms might define them in parentheses so those of us who are unfamiliar with that particular condensed term might also follow. Such as: Building a ULDB (Ultra Light Displacement Boat) is easy when you have a good instructable.
Aug 20, 2009. 2:56 PMaqwiz says:
Mex: Most acronyms are easily identifiable by cutting and pasting them into google. No offense meant, but to have every acronym spelled out would defeat the purpose of using acronyms, of which RFID in particular is a hugely widespread acronym, and only takes 3 seconds to find out what it is.
Sep 13, 2007. 6:25 PMJames (pseudo-geek) says:
why not replace the buzzer with a recording of "the mosquito sound"?....this is VERY annoying to people AND dogs and sometimes even painful.
Sep 13, 2007. 6:26 PMJames (pseudo-geek) says:
most people over 25 cant hear it anyway, its so high-pitched, so it wouldn't bother you, just the dogs (or your kids if you have any lol)
Mar 31, 2009. 1:42 PMNobodyInParticular says:
Audacity can be used to generate a tone of the appropriate pitch.

Unless the sound is extremely intense, humans cannot usually hear sounds over 20,000 Hz. For comparison, the whistle created by an old CRT television screen is around 16,000 Hz.

Remember that your sampling rate must be at least twice the highest frequency in your sound. For example, if your rate is 44,100 samples per second, sounds with frequencies over 22,050 Hz will either be cut off or replaced with a lower-pitched sound (aliasing).
Sep 14, 2007. 3:23 PMJames (pseudo-geek) says:
do a google search for "the mosquito sound " I looked it up and couldnt find one to download :(
Jan 3, 2009. 9:32 AMfinfan7 says:
How hard do you think it would be to use one of these as a car ignition?
Dec 18, 2008. 5:55 PMElvisLives says:
I think another avenue for creating one of these is to use a kit I found on eBay that is designed for controlling an electronic door lock. The kit cost $32.00 including shipping. It requires a 12v power supply and provides Normally Open and Normally Closed 12v outputs that are activated by a key fob. The controller has two antennas. The kit comes with 5 key fobs. The eBay seller is "kawalock," but please note that I have NOT received my kit yet and do NOT vouch for this seller. The kit looks promising though!
Nov 13, 2008. 1:05 PMzetareticuli says:
buy a petporte and hack it? :) just a thought.
Oct 31, 2008. 10:41 AMkaterlyn says:
This reminds me that I have a pet electric dog door i had to take out because the collar device stopped working for one dog, I had bought tons of batteries for these collar devices, does anyone need the batteries? Batteries bought in quantity for the other pet door are: i have at least 18 batteries with 2016 expriration, duracell: DL2430B. Does anyone know what other devices use this battery? i hope i'm not overstepping any rules. Also, I bought a staywell infra red door and do not use the collar devices, never got them returned, i have 3 with batteries, never used, for use with 861 infra red dog doors. BTW I LOVE my two solopetdoors.
Jan 17, 2008. 8:40 PMfrogspasm says:
I so came up with this idea! Then did a patent search and found out someone already had...bummer, there went my millions. I seriously need to make a pair of these for my cats. One is on a diet, and the other should be able to eat whenever she wants. I'd have to make one bowl that closes any time the diet cat gets near it, and another that opens for him on a timed schedule. Thanks for the inspiration!
Jan 10, 2008. 5:52 PMranandrada says:
Can you please give me the circuit diagram of this project and the program if possible? I really need to have this information. Please help. thank you
Sep 14, 2007. 5:27 PMcynvision says:
This RFID collar tags sure would work better than the infrared cat doors I presently have. I was planning on using a couple of pet doors to control access to some rooms I wanted to keep selected cats out of but I have found some cross-over between the colors of the infrared tags. The yellow tag is activating the blue keyed door. Plus you have to keep loading them with watch-sized batteries. Yuck! But like the dog bowl antenna, the cat door would need a little bit greater reach for the antenna. Would the stock antenna cover the lower, inner curve of the pet door so when the pet approaches the dangling tag touches the perimeter and the door unlocks?
Sep 21, 2007. 7:11 PMe1mer says:
I got my kit today, but they ignored my request for the fobs to replace the cards. I guess I have to buy a bag of 10 just to get 3. Before I do, has anyone bought a 10 pack and want to sell me half?
Sep 5, 2007. 9:15 AMfungus amungus says:
Nice, I was thinking of a way to make a light that turns on when my cat is near the back door and wants to get in. This looks perfect.
Sep 14, 2007. 3:50 PMJames (pseudo-geek) says:
oh yeah I saw that book in B&N, it looks awesome, I totally recommend it.
Sep 14, 2007. 11:29 AMfungus amungus says:
Sweet link! Thanks
Sep 13, 2007. 7:05 PMsniffydogs says:
I have Bloodhounds. This wouldn't work, even with an air raid siren. You really shouldn't "free feed". This usually leads to obesity in dogs. You should offer the dogs food twice daily. If they don't eat it in 10 minutes, pick it up.
Sep 14, 2007. 3:47 PMJames (pseudo-geek) says:
ehem. free-feeding only does that to SOME dogs. I have 2 mini-pins that I free feed and their not fat, all the dogs I've ever had (about 7) have been free-fed and never got fat. as for your bloodhounds, do a Google search for "the mosquito sound", that should annoy them plenty heheheh.
Sep 14, 2007. 10:24 AMsniffydogs says:
No dog will starve to death with food available. If they are leaving food in their dish, you are probably overfeeding. Pet obesity is a huge problem in America. They will eat when they get hungry enough.
Sep 14, 2007. 1:22 PMgallatea says:
Totally not true.. My sister-in-law has a bichon frise that is only about a year old. She rarely eats all her food when she gets food. She grazes. SIL said she can leave a big bowl out for 4 days before she finishes it. Scary. The dog's ribs are palpable - she's totally underweight. So "free feeding" does NOT always make your dog obese. If the dog doesn't eat it all in 10 min. that doesn't mean it's not hungry. It may mean it hates its food's flavor or has a health problem - and I'd not advise to starve it and take the food away to 'fix' the problem.
Sep 18, 2007. 5:26 PMjridley says:
As with humans, if the dog is getting enough activity, it'll stay in shape. Our dog free feeds, but she also spends a large part of the day outside running around, chasing wildlife and running alongside cars on our residential street (she's contained within an invisible fence and can't get within 60 feet of the road; she drag races cars that go down the street). One trick is to not feed a food that they find irresistable. Our vet recommended Science Diet, but the dog camped over the bowl and ate a ton. We find that Diamond has exactly the same nutritional values, but the dog eats only what she needs. We've switched her to Lamb & Rice which she loves, but at 8 years old she's developed eating habits so that unless we were feeding her chopped bacon she wouldn't overeat anyway.
Sep 14, 2007. 1:32 PMsniffydogs says:
Yeah, that's why all the furballs have rotten teeth and are picky eaters. People keep pandering to them and create picky eating dogs.
Sep 14, 2007. 5:55 AMclipless says:
Take the food away after 10 minutes? That sounds kind of harsh. My dog is half-bloodhound, and I put food in his bowl in the morning and evening. Sometimes he eats right away, other times he might wait up to an hour, and he’s far from obese.
Sep 14, 2007. 10:16 AMsniffydogs says:
I rescue Bloodhounds. Most are very other dog food aggressive. We have to feed them separately. If you only have one dog, go for it. Most hound breeds in general will eat until they blow up.
Sep 2, 2007. 5:08 PMAndrew546 says:
Has just the buzzer been sufficient to discourage the other dogs? When I first saw this, I thought you were going to rig up some kind of remotely operated lid.
Sep 12, 2007. 1:33 PMbtop says:
I thought that as well andrew, or you might have used a solenoid to open a hatch and let out some food. good job.
Sep 14, 2007. 10:42 AMSacTownSue says:
I wonder how it would work to rig something similar to an old fashion gum ball machine.
Sep 13, 2007. 10:10 PMDeadlyDad says:
That could work well. You could set it up so that it only gives a certain amount of food each time it is triggered, and only triggers a certain number of times a day. You would have more control over their diet, and there would be less likelihood of other animals eating their food, because there wouldn't be any until they went to the feeding station.
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