Step 1: Item Needed 1
U will need
CHIP ICO030 u can get it at http://126.96.36.199/epages/Store.storefront/?ObjectPath=/Shops/Store.TechSupplies/Products/ICO030
SENSOR srf030 u can get it at http://www.roboticsconnection.com/p-23-sharp-gp2d120-ir-sensor.aspx
MOTOR 120:1 - 220:1 u can get it at http://www.hobbyengineering.com/H1415.html
U will also need
● Double sided adhesive tape (for mounting, the foamy sort is best)
● Some wire
● Ordinary adhesive tape (to isolate a cable perhaps)
● Simple soldering equipment (Any cheap kit will do fine)
● An ordinary small nipper or scissor to cut things
● A screwdriver
Step 2: Now U May Begin
Insert the batteries, so you have a realistic idea of weight and balance. Add some
double adhesive tape to the button of the server as well..
Chose your own design, you can also add extra materials if my “design” is too
Main thing is that we have it all glued together: Batteries, Servo and wheels. And
wheels and servo can turn freely, and it can stand on it´s wheels somehow,
balancing or not.
Step 3: The Brain
handy placed there on the board, but we will not need it for this project, and we
need it´s space, so away with that chip! It is easiest to get chips out of the socket
by inserting a normal flat screwdriver just below it, move it in, and tip up the chip
Step 4: Resistors
so, if you should have a resistor, you can just insert it instead in slot numbered
“0”, as this is the only one we will use, when we only use one servo.
Also insert the large chip, the brains, the microcontroller,
the Picaxe 28(version number) into
the project board.
Important to turn this the right way. Note that
there is a little mark in one end, and so on the
board. These must go together.
This chip will get power from the board via 2 of
All the remaining 26 legs are connected around
on the board, and they will be programmable for
you, so you can send current in and out to detect
things and control things with the programs you
upload into this micro-controller
Step 5: Motor
means of connecting 4 cables to the standard sized holes, one can buy all sorts of
standard sockets and pins etc.)
On the backside of the board you may find some strange plastic. This has no
use, it is just a leftover from manufacturing. (They “dip” the board in warm tin,
and parts they do not want so get tinned is sealed with this stuff) Just peal it off
when you need the holes they seal.
Step 6: Sensor
(If you bought an SRF005 or similar instead, you should
look here on how to hook this up, it is different from this!)
There are a million ways to do this, but here are clues:
�Red needs to be connected to V1, that is (in this setup) anything marked “V”,
or is connected to this.
�Black goes to G, anywhere on the board.
�White is to be connected to Analogue input 1.
If you read the documentation that comes with the project-board, you can read how
to attach the accompanying ribbon-cable, and use this.
What I have done on the picture, is to cut off a cable from an old burned out servo,
soldered in a pin, and connected the whole thing just as a servo. You can use it to
see which colours of the Sharp goes to which row on the board.
Weather you use the ribbons or “my method” of connecting the Sharp IR, you
should also connect the 3 remaining analogue input to V. I had some jumpers
laying, and you can see that all 3 connections left are short cut. (The last pair, not
touched, are just two “Ground”, no need to short cut these). If you use the ribbon,
you can just connect the inputs to V (or ground for that matter) by connecting the
wires in pairs.
The reason it is important to shortcut the unused analogue inputs here is that the
are “left floating”. This means that you will get all sorts of weird readings where you
try to read if these are not connected. (to put it short, this is a fast paced
Step 7: Let There Be Life
wire on the project board (V). And the black (-) to (G). How you do this depends on
your equipment. If there is a battery-clip on both batteries and board you should still
make sure that the "+" from the batteries ends up to the "V" on the board.
Sometimes (though not often) the clips can be reversed to each other, and just
putting two matching clips together is no guarantee that + gets to V and - gets to G!
Make sure, or you will se melting things and smoke! Do not feed the board with
more than 6V (no 9V batteries, even though the clip fits)
As a note; We are only working with one power-supply here. Later you will want to
use same Ground, but both V1 and V2. That way your chips can get one source,
and the motors etc. another (stronger) voltage.