This desk is long and skinny it would also work well for a sofa table, a sideboard, or craft table.
"I would like to add that we have since added a File cabinet in to the middle, this is not only great for the storage but it dose give the desk more stability so it doesn't shake when one of us pushes away from the desk."
Step 1: Supplies needed
1 - Hollow core door I used a 15 " wide by 80 " long door you could use one as wide as 18"
4 - Balusters (stair spindles) I used 24" long ones
1- 2 X 4 ( you only need a small amount of this maybe a quarter so you can by or scrounge a smaller length)
8 - Screws 2 & 1/2 " long
4 - Leg plate kits (called a straight top plate)
4 - Double ended screws (one end threaded for wood) make sure they fit your plate kit.
1 - Pack of furniture pads
1 - long piece of molding to cover the front edge
an electric drill
Drill bits and screw driver bits
a nail set
pliers or vicegrips
Step 2: Leg supports
That being said:
You should cut your blocks around 3.5" in length. sand the edges, If for some reason you don't have sand paper take these pieces out to the side walk and rub the edges on the concrete.
I cut 8 because I am making another door into a counter top for my wreck room later.
Step 3: Attaching the leg anchors
You can see in the photo that the screw will be long enough to go thought the block and more then half way though the door
I used an extra bit before drilling the holes because I wanted the screw heads to be below the wood when I am done
I used a drill bit that is ever so slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw so that the screw will have a tight fit and not pull out.
The screws need to be on the outside edge of the door because that is where the door has solid wood to drill into.
The screws need to be in from the side of the door and block edge a half inch to an inch.
Attaching the leg plate:
Place the leg plate on the block where it will be attached then mark with a pen where the screws will go.
If you are smart you will mark each block and drill them all at once. I did one first to make sure I had it right then marked the other three and drilled them all at once.
switch bits and screw everything together.
Attaching the leg anchors to blocks is important for two reasons
1. it gives you a stable wood to attach the legs
2. it raises the legs so the desk is 26.5 " which is almost perfect height for a key board.
Step 4: Trim
I then went along the length of the trim and using my smallest drill bit I drilled pilot holes for the nails.
This is very important the wood will split if this is not done so don't skip it.
I then hammered the small trim nails along the whole length leaving them out about a 1/4"
Then I went along with my nail set and counter sunk them to just below the surface of the wood.
If you want to, you could use wood fill putty to hide them but I used a cool trim so I didn't need to.
I am all about the trim. I chose trim that was thicker then the door but didn't cover the wood blocks. Why you ask? Because I love the trim. They make wider trims and even simple plain wood strips that will work too. Trim is how you make the desk personal.
Another cool thing about this trim is the design hides the nails so I won't be using putty to hide them.
Also I didn't rap the trim around the sides because I am in the middle of a move and didn't have my miter box and no one will see the sides anyway.
Step 5: The Legs
Here is the killer using pliers or vicegrips you must screw the wood screw side (pointy side) into the leg. This requires a lot of hand strength. You might try using a jar opening pad to help.
Then add a pad to the bottom of each leg. I used felt pads because I am cheep.
You can buy ready made legs & if you are a wimp please do because getting the screws in are a @%$% .But ready made legs cost $15 to $30 each that way, and I didn't like they way they looked plus I am cheep I spent $5 each on the spindles and 79 cents on the screws
Step 6: Finish~
You can paint or stain your desk or leave it as is.
I stained my desk with a cabbenet color stain that is very red-brown then sealed it with polyurethane.
If you do seal it you must sand and do a second coat . The stain and first coat soak in and swell the grain of the wood leaving it a little rough. this is a two day process waiting for stain to dry and such.
Also do this out side or in a very well ventilated area.
If you are putting heavy stuff on this you will want a 5th leg on the center back or, you could run a 2X4 down the middle so that it is attached to the back and front then put a leg dead center of it.
For that matter you could run 2X4's on each side and have less cuts. But I didn't add an extra leg instead I am using this as a reason to by a new flat paneled monitor for myself.
The finished photo is as clean as my desk gets.
I may add drawer later on because, my husband complains there aren't any.
If I were to design it with a drawer I would have gotten taller legs so as to put a key board slide in too. Perfect height for a key board is 27 inches unless you are long legged (I am not)
The supplies cost me about $45. The desks I was looking at buying cost no less the $200 each and they weren't made out of wood, most are press board with photo laminate. The money I saved will go to a much needed new monitor. (mine is the one on the left). So that is $355 savings.Hmm I wonder if I can talk my husband into spending it all on a monitor for me.