Instructables
I came across this idea at the home-de-pot when I found in the cement section plastic forms for making walkways. They did not have a form that I liked or one that was big enough so I decided to make my own.
 
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Step 2: The cement

Picture of The cement
It took approximately three(80 lbs) bags of cement to fill one form (3 foot x 3 foot x 3 in) so after I got the form in place and level I mixed the cement coloring with the water and then mixed the cement into a fairly workable texture. Then pour the cement into the form and work it around until all of the air pockets are worked out. It is important not to leave any aggregate from the cement on the top of the form, this will make it harder to remove later.
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Vikking4 years ago
I just bought a house and wanted to do brick along the side, when I moved in, it's all weeds, this seems like it would be a lot cheaper and less aggravation doing this instead of lying brick one by one. I'm deffently going to have to do this when the weather warms up. thanks for sharing this. after I finish I'll try to post pictures and updates on my project.
kirnex1 year ago
This is great. I actually own two of these forms myself, but haven't been able to use them yet. I plan to use them to do a hybrid concrete overlay on an existing patio around a pool. Do you have any recommendations for .working around bends, curves and/or angles, or was that not an issue?

I've also considered using the forms to make my own patio pavers. I might do that, but since the concrete blend will contain polymers, I'm not sure that's a good idea as an overlay for the current concrete patio--as they would require some type of adhesive (liquid nails, more likely) in order to secure them.

Anyhow, your patio turned out amazing--I'd have never known that was a concrete form DIY. Looks terrific.Thanks for sharing.
nice sister2 years ago
This turned out really nice -- thanks for sharing!
Two questions:
1. what did you use as mortar?
2. how much did this project cost?
kleinjahr5 years ago
Nicely done. It'll make a nice floor for your new shop. Personally I think I would of bedded it on a couple of inches of pea gravel or sand, with a layer of plant barrier fabric underneath. "Grout" with loose sand. This allows for drainage,expansion and prevents weed growth. Also easier to level.
Excellent idea, congratulations! Thanks for sharing
I'm going to put in practice, however everytime I will prepare concrete, I have the same question.
Whats the best/d ratio of mixture (cement, sand, stones)?
Can someone give me ideas?
Thank you
seekir3 years ago
I've used Pam (spray for cooking) as a form release on smooth-surfaced melamine-surfaced particle board forms. Not sure how well it'd work on unfinished wood, but it's easy to apply and like vaseline, probably non-toxic.
wobbler3 years ago
Nice! Your final outcome is much better than the false looking imprints used on drives around here and from your photos looks like real separate slabs..
Btower5 years ago
I worked with pattern imprinted concrete for nine years. It is important to know that a suitable mix would be 3 parts small stones(agregrate) 2 parts sand, one part cement. These bags may be ready mixed similar.
jmb3r2 Btower3 years ago
This helps. Thank you.
Thanks.
Flegeance3 years ago
How about a close up of the Form. It looks like the you made the individual bricks with a 1/4inch X 1/4 inch square dowel??? It seems the Concrete would break that when you are laying it down. Great Instructable.
bassman76jazz (author)  Flegeance3 years ago
yes, its 1/4 square poplar stock. It held up well but i did not pour in the concrete mix from very high, just from a wheelbarrow...
thafunki14 years ago
if u run a quick edger between the concrete and the mold you would eliminate most of your cracking ....
uvodee4 years ago
Great idea and awesome follow up comments of the members here.
My two cents: Vaseline may be a great way to prevent the wood for sticking but I have done the following with super results = make sure the wood is super wet before sticking it in the concrete and oil it up with motor oil.
Making it super wet will expand the wood and when it is drying it will come loose by itself. The oil prevents the cement from sticking to the wood...
I have done this about 32 times making one cover stone at a time for a brick wall.
roxiel5 years ago
NICE JOB! I USED THE FRAME FROM HOME DEPOT AND IT TURNED OUT GREAT. I DID NOT LEVEL MY YARD OR ANYTHING, JUST PLACED THE MOLD WHERE I WANTED AND POURED CEMENT. THE CEMENT WOULD FILL THE HOLES, SOME MORE THAN OTHERS TO MAKE IT LEVEL. I THEN REMOVED THE FRAME AFTER 15 MINUTES AND CONTINUED WITH THE NEXT ONE. I REALLY LIKE YOUR FRAME DESIGN . I TOOK IT UP THIS YEAR AND USED THE "ROCKS" FROM IT FOR MY FLOWER BORDERS.
enginepaul6 years ago
Hate to be nit-picky, but one should use sacks of concrete mix, not cement.. Experiment with the water content of your mix and I think you'll find that you can remove the form sooner than two hours. Nice project and a great idea on the mold.
Concrete in pre mixed bags is about the worst way to go as far as money is concerned. This project is ideal for ferro-cement. Simply mix 15% cement with sand and add water to make a mix that is a bit on the stiff side. Several layers of chicken wire are a cheap addition for strength and safety's sake. Two inches of thickness is overkill with adequate wire in the mix. The best advice is to work the mix into the wire with a toilet plunger and then trowel it to suit yourself. Let each block remain untouched for a full month for curing purposes. Keep plastic sheet below each block and keep damp burlap on top to retain water while curing. This stuff is uncanny in its strength when done right,
Post some pics please.
maker4195 years ago
This patio uses only gravel as a sublayer and actually absorbs rainwater for later irrigation : http://www.brickpatio.blogspot.com Low cost too.
bassman76jazz (author)  maker4195 years ago
I have built brick patio's before its a lot of work getting things level and eventual they get all out of whack. and brick paver are not that low cost but the look is fantastic. originally that is what I wanted to do but the cost was prohibitive. in a way it's like I built my own pavers.
foobear5 years ago
cool! I'm getting ready to buy a house. This will be handy.
Newblit5 years ago
Very nice although I think you would have had a more stable set up and created stronger cement if you would have bought more wood and just did the whole design at once instead of in multiples let it harden totally then come back with the mortar after you pull up the would that separated the different things.
osgeld5 years ago
looks nice, good job!
gl0000015 years ago
Nice, but it's a concrete patio. When you mix cement (the powder) with water, sand and some aggregate there is a chemical reaction called polymerization and the mixture becomes concrete.
Cement, sand and water becomes mortar. Cement and water becomes "parge" or "rough coat" ("crepi" in french. I'm not sure about the translation).
Same as with flour. Mix it with different ingredients and it becomes : bread, pancakes, cake ...
nolte9195 years ago
What are grabber screws? And what does it mean by Vaseline was used as a release? Was the form coated in Vaseline to make it easier to release it from the concrete?
dchall86 years ago
What a great idea! Good for you!! Thanks for sharing. I don't understand your form. Is the pattern 3 inches deep or is the pattern more like a surface effect? It seems like the pattern part would be too fragile if it was only 1/4 inch deep. Can you elaborate on how you made the form? I don't know what a grabber screw is, either. Can you post a parts list and some more pictures into the Instructable? What attracted me to this was the use of the word cement. Usually it is used incorrectly and you are in that category. What you made was concrete. Cement is the special ingredient which, when mixed with sand, aggregate, and water, causes a chemical reaction that turns it all into concrete.
cfuse dchall86 years ago
> I don't understand your form. Likewise. If this is surface patterning, then it's easier to do on a large slab post pour with a concrete saw. (Lazy) People where I am use contrasting textured paint for a similar effect. If however, the form is a case of making many pavers at once, then it seems like it could be done in an easier manner.
bassman76jazz (author)  cfuse5 years ago
no problem with that, other than my project cost less then renting a concrete saw
Which is important given that thrift is invariably a large part of any instructable.
> I don't understand your form. Is the pattern 3 inches deep or is the pattern more like a surface effect? It seems like the pattern part would be too fragile if it was only 1/4 inch deep. Can you elaborate on how you made the form? . Thats what I was thinking too when I looked at the pictures. > What attracted me to this was the use of the word cement. Usually it is used incorrectly and you are in that category. What you made was concrete. Cement is the special ingredient which, when mixed with sand, aggregate, and water, causes a chemical reaction that turns it all into concrete. . You wouldn't believe the amount of people that don't know the difference, and assume they are both different pourable mixtures. You are totally correct tho dchall.
bassman76jazz (author)  Punkguyta6 years ago
well the term is portland cement
If you want to split hairs, it's capital P Portland cement because of an obscure reference the the Isle of Portland in England.
bassman76jazz (author)  dchall85 years ago
I'm to busy doing projects to be bothered with the shift key.
The other thing I see a lot is people saying, "if you mix sand and clay you get concrete (or sometimes cement)." That is also incorrect. At best you get adobe from that mix, but usually adobe has grass in it. The only ways to get stabilized solid blocks is to use cement in a damp mix with no clay or to bake clay at high enough temperatures to make it a ceramic. But I don't want to belabor the cement versus concrete. That's just a pet peeve of mine. I really like the idea of this Instructable and am anxiously awaiting the clarifications as to making the form.
I want to build my own aqua-duct out of adobe. >I really like the idea of this Instructable and am anxiously awaiting the clarifications as to making the form. . Well he isn't doing much at keeping up with his comments, so I'll answer for you. Although it does look VERY close to those grooves actually going all the way down, look at the picture in step 3 (picture 2). Look at the form in the right corner of the picture, I wouldn't say those go down any more than 2-3 centimeters.
He created a box with the 1/4" X 3", and then inside the box created a pattern flush to the top with the 1/4" x 1/4". You can see it in step 3 clearly.
I don't know if it is just me or what but I do not have a problem seeing that this is more than 1/4" deep. ??
bassman76jazz (author)  dchall85 years ago
the pattern is only 1/4 in. deep, the walls of the form are 3 in. deep
johnnyoh5 years ago
Looks like a great idea. I am about to extend an existing patio. Did you happen to use rebar or hardware cloth to prevent this from cracking?
bassman76jazz (author)  johnnyoh5 years ago
in my first test piece I used chicken wire but it didn't seem to be needed.
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