Print PDF
Favorite
Email
Step 13Joining the Wings together and adding the Backplate
Ask a friend to measure the distance between the points shown in the first picture. These are where the wings will appear to join on to your body. You are looking for the point about 2 inches towards your spine from the joint between your shoulder blade and the long upper bone of your arm. This is the width of your back plate and also the width apart of the bases of the wings.
Pictures 2 and 3 show how the wings are fastened together; in Indiana Jones rope-bridge stylee.
Note that there are 2 spars joining the wings together; this allows the wings to point upwards and outwards without rotating down. The bottom spar in the diagram is tied at the tips of the short spars, the top spar is tied an inch and a half further up. Bind and glue.
Next make the back plate shown in picture 4. It is shaped like a trapezium, the longer upper edge being the length we measured earlier. The taper towards the bottom is to help it to remain hidden when worn.
Mine is 11 inches across the top, 11 inches deep and 8 inches across the bottom.
I then made holes along the top edge every inch, although every 2 inches would probably do, using the bradawl. A drill would be easier. I then made 2 sets of holes in the shape of 2 rectangles just below these holes. I made about 6 around each rectangle. Make the middle of the rectangle about 2 inches in from the edges and the top edge of the rectangle about 1/2 inch below the top row of holes.
I then made 2 hooks with a 3 inch diameter loop at the top and a 2 1/2 inch point at the bottom, as shown in pictures 5 and 6. These are made from quadruple thickness wire and tied on to the backplate tightly using lots of plastic twine, then glued.
I then made another hole towards the bottom of the backplate and passed a foot of plastic string through it and tied it.
The base plate is then tied to the upper strut of the wings with lots of string and then glued to stop the knots coming undone.
Check out my moulded earplug company website at www.zenplugs.co.uk. I've developed a new technique for making moulded swimming earplugs, sleeping earplugs and snoring earplugs.
Pictures 2 and 3 show how the wings are fastened together; in Indiana Jones rope-bridge stylee.
Note that there are 2 spars joining the wings together; this allows the wings to point upwards and outwards without rotating down. The bottom spar in the diagram is tied at the tips of the short spars, the top spar is tied an inch and a half further up. Bind and glue.
Next make the back plate shown in picture 4. It is shaped like a trapezium, the longer upper edge being the length we measured earlier. The taper towards the bottom is to help it to remain hidden when worn.
Mine is 11 inches across the top, 11 inches deep and 8 inches across the bottom.
I then made holes along the top edge every inch, although every 2 inches would probably do, using the bradawl. A drill would be easier. I then made 2 sets of holes in the shape of 2 rectangles just below these holes. I made about 6 around each rectangle. Make the middle of the rectangle about 2 inches in from the edges and the top edge of the rectangle about 1/2 inch below the top row of holes.
I then made 2 hooks with a 3 inch diameter loop at the top and a 2 1/2 inch point at the bottom, as shown in pictures 5 and 6. These are made from quadruple thickness wire and tied on to the backplate tightly using lots of plastic twine, then glued.
I then made another hole towards the bottom of the backplate and passed a foot of plastic string through it and tied it.
The base plate is then tied to the upper strut of the wings with lots of string and then glued to stop the knots coming undone.
Check out my moulded earplug company website at www.zenplugs.co.uk. I've developed a new technique for making moulded swimming earplugs, sleeping earplugs and snoring earplugs.
| « Previous Step | Download PDFView All Steps | Next Step » |
 |
Add Comment
|
