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Step 7Making the Frame 2
Next we are going to make the articulated segments which allow the wings to open out without leaving a gap.
Cut 4 triangles from the card. They need to be reasonably stiff. The length of the triangle needs to be 3-inches shorter than the short arm of your wing, as you can see in the first picture. The width of the base needs to be about 3/5ths the length of the side. It's going to vary depending on the size and proportions of your wings. You want the arrangement shown below in pictures 1 and 2; it may take a little experimentation. Too many triangles = fat bulky wing, too few = less realistic spreading effect. You could manage with just two, one attached to each spar but it would look less effective on spreading. Four looks good.
Make a hinge for the triangles from the garden wire by folding a 3.5 inch piece into a T-shape, as shown in the third picture. Reinforce the end of the triangles where they join by covering with tape to about an inch from the end so the hinge doesn't pull through.
Make a small hole near the sharpest point of each triangle, with your bradawl or hole-punch, and thread them on to the hinge. Then fold the other end so that it forms an H-shape, see fourth picture (I have omitted the card to make it clearer). Alternatively you could use a paper fastener or even tie a loop of string through the hole but be careful not to tie it too tight or it won't work.
Glue the left-hand edge of the bottom triangle to the back edge of the shortest spar leaving 2 inches of bamboo protruding at the end
Cut 4 tapes from the white material, one for each triangle. Make them 1/2 inch wide and as long as 4/5 of the base of your triangle. Glue them as shown in the second picture, with one end towards the centre of the triangle and the other end to the same point on the back of the triangle above it.
Check that the triangles can spread out so that they just overlap (picture 2) and can fold down like in picture 1. You might need to hold them apart or prop them whilst they dry so they don't stick together. The tapes are at different points on the triangles in the pictures due to adjustments I made whilst the glue was drying. The top triangle is attached to the longest spar on the wing. Check that it allows the full flexion and extension of the wing before letting the glue set.
Check out my moulded earplug company website at www.zenplugs.co.uk. I've developed a new technique for making moulded swimming earplugs, sleeping earplugs and snoring earplugs.
Cut 4 triangles from the card. They need to be reasonably stiff. The length of the triangle needs to be 3-inches shorter than the short arm of your wing, as you can see in the first picture. The width of the base needs to be about 3/5ths the length of the side. It's going to vary depending on the size and proportions of your wings. You want the arrangement shown below in pictures 1 and 2; it may take a little experimentation. Too many triangles = fat bulky wing, too few = less realistic spreading effect. You could manage with just two, one attached to each spar but it would look less effective on spreading. Four looks good.
Make a hinge for the triangles from the garden wire by folding a 3.5 inch piece into a T-shape, as shown in the third picture. Reinforce the end of the triangles where they join by covering with tape to about an inch from the end so the hinge doesn't pull through.
Make a small hole near the sharpest point of each triangle, with your bradawl or hole-punch, and thread them on to the hinge. Then fold the other end so that it forms an H-shape, see fourth picture (I have omitted the card to make it clearer). Alternatively you could use a paper fastener or even tie a loop of string through the hole but be careful not to tie it too tight or it won't work.
Glue the left-hand edge of the bottom triangle to the back edge of the shortest spar leaving 2 inches of bamboo protruding at the end
Cut 4 tapes from the white material, one for each triangle. Make them 1/2 inch wide and as long as 4/5 of the base of your triangle. Glue them as shown in the second picture, with one end towards the centre of the triangle and the other end to the same point on the back of the triangle above it.
Check that the triangles can spread out so that they just overlap (picture 2) and can fold down like in picture 1. You might need to hold them apart or prop them whilst they dry so they don't stick together. The tapes are at different points on the triangles in the pictures due to adjustments I made whilst the glue was drying. The top triangle is attached to the longest spar on the wing. Check that it allows the full flexion and extension of the wing before letting the glue set.
Check out my moulded earplug company website at www.zenplugs.co.uk. I've developed a new technique for making moulded swimming earplugs, sleeping earplugs and snoring earplugs.
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