Instructables

How to make a projection screen that's also a painting

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I had this idea that I would make a projection screen that doubled as a painting when you flip it over. I liked the thought that it would look like I didn't have a TV at all while at the same time getting a cool piece of art that I actually made myself. It turned out to be a lot of work but I'm very satisfied with the result even though a lot of things didn't turn out as I thought (some better, some worse).

Anyways, I thought I'd collect what I learned and publish it so that people can go ahead and make even cooler screen+painting combos.
 
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Step 1: Get the stuff

First thing to do is to build the frame. I went to the lumber yard and got regular unfinished lumber (40mm x 30mm) to make the inner frame. I also got some finished wood to use as the outer frame. You also need some L brackets, wood screws, a staple gun and a miter box (if possible though, use one of those miter saws that are attached for better precision).

The picture is missing quite a few pieces, but you probably know what they look like anyway.

Step 2: Make the inner frame

Now it's time to make the inner frame. Just saw the unfinished lumber to make a rectangle of 16x9 proportions (I made miter joints but it's probably easier and better to make regular joints since these won't show anyway). To ensure the structural integrity of the thing I also put a cross in the middle.

Step 3: Clothing it

So far so good, the next step is to drape the thing. I started with the side that was supposed to house the painting, mostly because I had the material for that side already but also because that material was much thinner and wouldn't interfere with the tensing of the material on the other side. For this I used regular opaque roller shades from IKEA. It's important to check so that there aren't any sharp corners sticking out (since I'd made miter joints there was this one joint that didn't line up properly and I had to sand it down) that could tear the shades when tensing them. You should have so much material that you have at least 20 cm to pull at at each side.

The tensing process is a lot of work since the fabric need to be stretched really hard in order to avoid ugly bubbling effects. You start out by spreading the fabric centered onto the frame, folding it over the back and putting one staple at the middle of each side on the outside of the frame. Don't put the staples too far "down" or you'll have problems when stripping off the excess fabric when done. The first ones are the most tricky and you might have to pull them out and tighten several times before it looks okay. It's not crucial that it looks great at this stage. You can proceed by putting three or four staples around each initial staple and tighten it until you're satisfied. Always alternate between sides to minimize the risk of pulling the fabric askew since it leads to bubbling.

Step 4: Streeeetch

Picture of Streeeetch
Once you're satisfied with the initial cross you work yourself, one quadrant at the time, out towards a corner. Alternate between sides to get the best possible result and fold it over when you get to the corner. A word of warning: Even though I restretched the whole thing probably four or five times it still had tiny creasing/bubbles along the frame (especially the morning after), but only if the light was right and I looked at it from a 170 degree angle. I'm deeply anal about these things but in the end I decided that it was good enough and that I probably wouldn't watch movies from that angle anyway...

Then it's time to do the other side. Take care not to get the side that's done dirty in the process since it will be problematic to clean it. The material I used for this is called Barracuda which is a plastic tarp similar to the stuff they use for printing advertising banners on. It's kindof thick, a couple of millimeters at least, so it's much harder to stretch than the shades and you should probably get a mate to help you out. Aside from that the process is pretty much the same. Remember to start out by stripping the excess fabric left from the other side using sharp scissors though (box cutters are too imprecise for a good result).

Step 5: Bring in the Gimp

Before putting on the outer frame you should paint the edges so the part where the outer frame meets the painting looks as good as possible. But in order to do that you have to know what you're going to paint. So you start out by finding a nice motive. Things to keep in mind at this stage is to pick an image that will look good in only two colors. This means avoiding images with lots of clutter and small details. I knew I wanted to make the painting film themed and looked at a lot of Bogart pictures, sadly almost all of them were too cluttered to work and since Steve McQueen is the coolest thing ever to walk around in a pair of pants I finally settled for scenes from Bullitt.

So with that we turn to Gimp (I'm sure a number of other applications will do just as well, but the examples will be in Gimp). First off we convert the image into greyscale (Image->Mode->Greyscale), then we erase the details we aren't interested in, this makes the following step somewhat easier. The next step is the Threshold tool (Tools->Color tools->Threshold) where you can fiddle with the detail level until you're satisfied.

Before moving to the next step we need to make sure that the white parts of the image are transparent rather than white (they probably aren't). Easiest is to go back to RGB, add a background layer and flood fill it with some other color and make sure that there is an alpha channel present (Layer->Transparency->Add Alpha Channel). Then use the wand (actually, "Fuzzy Select" is the proper name) tool and start selecting all the white parts and delete them (zoom in to get the smallest parts).

If the image is small, now is a good time to make it the intended size before applying the Oilify filter (Filters->Artistic->Oilify). Before oilifying the image will be rather "prickly" but the oilifying takes care of that and the end result looks really professional.

Step 6: Be artistic

Now for the hard part; composing the painting. I found this old poster in various shades of orange that served as inspiration, so I divided the painting into three vertical fields. I played around with a lot of scenes before settling on four in different sizes. I also decided to have a couple of horizontal divider lines so that Steve's torso would have something to rest on. For a long while I also wanted a quote from the movie in there, but I couldn't find a satisfying font so I dropped the idea (which was probably for the best since it would've been maddeningly fiddly to paint the letters, and I probably would've smudged them as well).

I didn't trust my abilities to mix shades consistently so I just got the three different oranges that were available (acrylic colors) at my local paint pusher.

Step 7: Paint the whole shebang

Now we go back to where we left off earlier; painting the edges. This I did just so that I wouldn't have to go too close to the outer frame and dribble paint all over it, and so that there wouldn't show any white parts between the outer frame and the actual canvas. This can actually turn out to be a problem since the surplus canvas, especially at the corners where you have to fold it, gets rather thick. So take care to paint the edge of the thicker plastic canvas or you'll go nuts noticing it.

Once you're done painting the edge you screw on the outer frame. Now, if I got to do it all over, I wouldn't have chosen to do the outer frame in two pieces. The original plan was this: the outer frame would consist of eight finished and miter jointed pieces (30mm x 17mm each) forming a two-layered frame. The first four, inner, pieces would be fastened by screws and then the outer framed would simply be glued onto the inner one, that way I couldn't have to cover up ugly screw heads. This was a bad idea because of the miter joints. Since I kindof skimped on the miter box, the precision wasn't really up to par, but even if it had been, it would have been almost impossible to get all the sixteen (yeah, that's right) angles to align properly. You also need to screw in the loops from which to hang the whole thing.

Oh well, time to paint. I hung the screen and fed the image to the projector. The first thing you should do is to put masking tape along all straight lines since it's harder than it seems to paint along a straight line. I thought I could get away with it but had to go back and redo the lines afterwards. Be sure to seal the edges of the tape as seen in the pictures so that the paint doesn't bleed in under the edges of the tape.

After the lines are done, the rest is just hard work. I figured it would take a couple of hours, but it ended up with me going to bed at five in the morning (I'd started painting at about eleven I think, it's all a haze actually). Since I had my flatwarming party the next day I really wanted it to be ready by then.

Step 8: Lessons learned

I'm quite pleased with the end result, but it was a lot more work than I'd expected. The only thing that's still bugging me are the corners. I'm thinking of putting a piece of sheet metal around each corner to cover up the actual joint if I only can figure out how to make it look good. I will probably paint it black as well and would welcome suggestions on how to best make the paint stick to the metal.

Anyways, the joints on the inner frame and the outer one are really the only two thing I would have made different if I did it again. Now go forth and make even nicer paintings!
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jaime99996 years ago
so, how do you flip it around? from the description and initial photo, I was expecting a Kandinsky-like "double sided painting" mounted on some kind of rotating bracket. Here's how you could build such a thing: Like a Kandinsy, mount a rotating bearing at the exact center of the top of the frame, so the painting can spin in air. Then mount the other end of that bearing on an arm that is attached to the wall. The arm should be slightly longer than half the width of the painting, and itself mounted on a hinge (this hinge would be tricky to fabricate). Then, to rotate the painting, pull it out from against the wall (so the arm is perpendicular to the wall, spin the painting 180, then push back against the wall. Also possible would be a similar design where the arms and bearing are mounted on the sides, so it spins around a horizontal instead of vertical axis. The decision between these two options would have a lot to do with available space and clearances to other furniture and walls. Flyke, in your living room, where the painting-display wall and the screen-display wall are at 90 degrees, you could put an arm up against the ceiling, hinged at the corner where the walls intersected, and just hang the painting from the arm on cables (no need for a bearing on the painting frame).
Fylke (author)  jaime99996 years ago
Hehe, sweet idea Jaime (don't think I haven't toyed with it =)

Now, I wonder what one of those KUKA-robots cost...
about £30000
zigzagchris3 years ago
I like the url of the page
+1
tinker2343 years ago
oh wow how good is the image
eyerobot3 years ago
Do you get any light bouncing from the back of your painting, And onto the projection screen?

I would imagine some light would try to bounce like that, But maybe your material is too thick for that.

Love this instructable, Thanks.
Fylke (author)  eyerobot3 years ago
Hmm, not exactly sure how you mean, but no, I haven't had any problems like that. The canvas part is made from rollup blinds so they hardly let any light through and the screen part is really thick rubber-coated weave (something like 2 mm) which doesn't let any light through either.

Besides, the only natural light-source is from behind the couch anyway so it wouldn't be a problem I think.

Anyhoo, thanks a lot for your kind words! =D
allandnnn4 years ago
instead of ruining your master piece you can make a sanding block with fine grit grab some wood filler angle the wood down so it is the only part pointing down use the wood filler let dry sand the corner down then paint it when i was working as a carpenter helper they did it a lot with filling holes on framing on 8 million dollar work boats might want to try on a practice miter angle till you perfect it first

LunaBomb5 years ago
This is awesome, but how'd you mount it to the wall?
Fylke (author)  LunaBomb5 years ago
I have one of those ledges that you put pictures and paintings on and I just drilled holes in the bottom of it. Then I took the same kind of hook that I used for the bookshelf (which I guess isn't on any of the pictures either, but it's really just a regular hook with a screw) and cut it off so it wouldn't stick up through the ledge.

The hooks go in the two metal loops that are screwed into the top of the painting. I think I'll go back and add pictures for these bits since I even have trouble explaining it =P
Valche5 years ago
Couldn't you just plane and repaint the corners?
Fylke (author)  Valche5 years ago
Heh yeah, I've been meaning to do that for about a year now. I'm sure I'll get around to it soon... =)
swatdoc5 years ago
AWESOME instructable...do you think you could email me the artwork?
OnTheLevel5 years ago
Nice work! Thanks for the tutorial
clintta5 years ago
What program for editing the images did you use?
Fylke (author)  clintta5 years ago
I used Gimp in Linux, but I think the filters I used to create the effects are called almost the same in Photoshop. So you could use Photoshop just as well. I haven't tried any other programs but I imagine Paint Shop Pro would work too.
Hedgie6 years ago
Not sure if you knew and just found them too expensive or what...but just in case you ever have to re-canvas the thing...I would definitely suggest a pair of painter's canvas stretchers...they'd certainly save your finger tips.
Fylke (author)  Hedgie6 years ago
Umm, wich I'd known about them. Is it these things you are referring to? http://www.rexart.com/stretchingacessories.html
Hedgie Fylke6 years ago
Yep, That's be them
rallen713666 years ago
It is VERY difficult to make tight frame joints with a hand saw. I made a jig for my table saw to cut the picture frames. It's almost a necessity, as even 1 degree difference in the cutting angle shows up as a huge gap. The trick is to make a sliding table with a 90 degree block to back the strips against when pushing into the blade. Set the block so that it is bisected into 2 * 45 degree angles, before it is fastened to the sliding table. Then hold your frame pieces against the block and push. Even if the block isn't set perfectly, the angles will always match into a "perfect" 90 degrees.

Even this won't guarantee a "picture perfect" frame. (sorry, I had to!) Be ready to use some sandpaper taped to a block of wood and some wood putty to get the best appearance.

Fascinating design! I really enjoy it, and looking forward to more from you!
Fylke (author)  rallen713666 years ago
Thank you, I'm beginning to realize that I probably wouldn't have ended up with perfect joints even if I had a quality saw and just four pieces for the outer frame. I think I'll give the wood putty idea a shot and if it doesn't come out well I can just proceed with the metal idea and cover it up. A friend suggested to get the metal painted at a car body shop and just glue them on with some serious epoxy.
Pre-built corner connectors are a very good option to hand building "picture frames". If the frames aren't visible (covered by canvas) you could probably use just use pipe and fittings. A painted pipe "frame" with a canvas "skin" stretched on it would be nice also. My late uncle (a pro artist) did an ink-on-chamois of a wolf, stretched inside a frame made of a looped branch. Very nice! The same idea with a more industrial flavor would also work well, I'm sure.
The jig described above is indeed a good idea. However, you can make the joint stronger by using a spline. See this linkthis link. It describes how to do it using a table saw, but it can also be done with a handsaw. In fact, a handsaw is safer when the pieces you are working with are long, as in this Instructable.
mattress6 years ago
nice work, now I just have to get a projector. BTW, is that a braveheart sword on your wall?
Greenehouse6 years ago
Great job, thanks for the idea. One thing a painter told me on a jobsite was "caulk and paint make it what it 'aint!"
slimguy3796 years ago
awesome Idea, I have an old set up projector screen that is horrendous and could be used for this idea. thanks... keep up the good work.
Eclecticos6 years ago
Its a Steve McQueen Screen. Hell Yea. Looks Fantastic.
hernanai6 years ago
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-projection-screen-thats-also-a-pain/?ALLSTEPS

um... do you see anything odd about the link... that's what caught my attention... "also a pain"

Great instructable and i love the result...
Aren't most projection screens also a pain?
especially when they don't roll back up...
Or when they roll up right in the middle of watching something, especially something live, like NASCAR.
or a LAN party... like Halo 3 and your entire team is one the one screen... and your enemies are on another... one hell of a night...
Ouch! I like playing CoD 4, with one team on broadband and the other team on dialup. As long as both teams are good sports, it is great fun. Especially when you get a few flash-bangs going and make it a rave.
Fylke (author)  hernanai6 years ago
Hehe yeah, I'm especially pleased with that part. =)
normalicy6 years ago
Latex Caulk. It's what many carpenters use to seal the seams between the wall base trim in houses. You could also use filler putty, but it's a bit more fragile.
Thornburg6 years ago
For that corner just get some wood filler, and sand it down. Then just paint over. Nice work.
Gjdj36 years ago
That's really cool. You can have your big projector screen and not have it look ugly when it's not being used. 5 stars!
codester6 years ago
Nice job!
Nice 'ible, you can get Binding corners for boxes that look nice, they'd do well, they're usually galvanized steel...
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