Print PDF
Favorite
Email
Step 5The Brake system
Next up is brakes. There are several types of brakes you can use: mechanical or hydraulic. The later is generally better and easier to install because you can route the brake lines to wherever you want them. The brake system I have is an MCP go cart brake kit. They run around $150 including the master cylinder, rotor, rotor hub, caliper, and brake line. You can also use motorbike brakes if you have any laying around.
First, I drilled two holes through the frame where the bolts holding the caliper would go through. Many people create a caliper mounting bracket. Mine just happened to conveniently work without it. After that, I bolted on the caliper and made sure it aligned properly with the rotor. The rotor and other components on the axle are adjustable and slide back and forth on a keyway milled into the axle shaft. Once adjusted, you lock them down with set screws.
Next, I installed the master cylinder. This is bolted through the frame. The aluminum piece with the three holes is the connection for the brake pedal connecting rod, which is made out of 1/4" steel rod bent @ 90 degrees. The other end of the rod connects to the pedal. I welded a nut to the end of the rod and drilled out the threads. Make sure you do a real hot, molten weld here because you don't want that to fail. The pedal is made out of scrap steel and a short length of 1x1 square tubing with a hole drilled through the bottom in which to run a bolt through the frame. A nylock nut on the other side allows it to stay in place yet swivel back and forth.
Once you've gotten everything to work smoothly, you'll have to bleed to brakes. But hold off on that until closer to the end.
First, I drilled two holes through the frame where the bolts holding the caliper would go through. Many people create a caliper mounting bracket. Mine just happened to conveniently work without it. After that, I bolted on the caliper and made sure it aligned properly with the rotor. The rotor and other components on the axle are adjustable and slide back and forth on a keyway milled into the axle shaft. Once adjusted, you lock them down with set screws.
Next, I installed the master cylinder. This is bolted through the frame. The aluminum piece with the three holes is the connection for the brake pedal connecting rod, which is made out of 1/4" steel rod bent @ 90 degrees. The other end of the rod connects to the pedal. I welded a nut to the end of the rod and drilled out the threads. Make sure you do a real hot, molten weld here because you don't want that to fail. The pedal is made out of scrap steel and a short length of 1x1 square tubing with a hole drilled through the bottom in which to run a bolt through the frame. A nylock nut on the other side allows it to stay in place yet swivel back and forth.
Once you've gotten everything to work smoothly, you'll have to bleed to brakes. But hold off on that until closer to the end.
| « Previous Step | Download PDFView All Steps | Next Step » |
2
comments
|
Add Comment
|
Aug 8, 2010. 9:11 PMwaynecreech
says:
The bleeder fittings should be on the top not the bottom of the caliper...
Reply
May 30, 2009. 9:10 AMMerkatroyd
says:
When I got my brake calliper, it came with allan wrench bolts on it that mounted the brake pads. Am I supposed to use these?
Reply
3
Jun 3, 2009. 7:33 AMmowerracer (author)
says:
What kind of brake system did you get? Typical cart brakes come with a caliper that is split in two. You're supposed to mount the brakes to the frame with two long bolts. These mounting bolts will hold the caliper together. The rotor of course goes in between the caliper. Look up diagrams for cart brakes and you'll get a good idea of how they go together.
Reply
 |
Add Comment
|
